MY TEN
Ina Garten Delights in Hitchcock Thrillers and Her Mini Cooper
With a new show coming to Discovery+, the Barefoot Contessa discussed her passion for French butter, Nordic dramas and a very American musical.
By ALEXIS SOLOSKI

FOOD MATTERS
In a Starving World, Is Eating Well Unethical?
A meditation on the true cost of dining when nearly one-third of the planet lacks regular access to food.
By LIGAYA MISHAN, ANTHONY COTSIFAS and VICTORIA PETRO-CONROY

FRONT BURNER
‘Six California Kitchens’ Details the Cooking Life of Sally Schmitt
The upcoming cookbook and memoir by Ms. Schmitt, who died this month at 90, weaves recipes in with memories of a full life.

“Six California Kitchens: A Collection of Recipes, Stories and Cooking Lessons from a Pioneer of California Cuisine” by Sally Schmitt with Bruce Smith, (Chronicle Books, $35), sixcaliforniakitchens.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Dress Your Spring Salads With Zeal, a Ramp Vinegar
Brightland, a company based in Los Angeles, gets its olive oils, vinegars and honeys, from small producers.

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Brightland Zeal Ramp Vinegar, $28 for 6.7 ounces, brightland.co.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Pasta Alla Vodka, but Make It Beans
Ali Slagle takes the classic dish and gives it a 2022 update with chickpeas and kale.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Thai Noodles, Far From Thailand
Cooks in the nation’s diaspora offer wisdom on making pad Thai and other classics at home. First tip: Sometimes taste is more important than tradition.

The Thai chef Pailin Chongchitnant in her kitchen in Vancouver, British Columbia, with homemade pad see ew and part of her soy sauce collection.
By Julia Moskin

How to Press Tofu
Get more crisp and crunch from your firm tofu — no special equipment required!
By TEJAL RAO

Review
I tried one of Dolly Parton’s new cake mixes, and it got me out of my 9-to-5 funk

By Emily Heil

There’s Nothing Like a Good Concha. Here’s How to Make Them Great.
The popular Mexican sweet bread, with its seashell-shaped topping, is a delight when prepared right.

This concha recipe, which includes options for café con leche, vanilla and chocolate toppings, results in springy and light buns.
By Pati Jinich

PEOPLE, PLACES, THINGS
Near Japan’s Mount Asama, a Wine Bar Floats Among the Trees
Plus: a new bronze watch from Panerai, snails in Asian cuisine and more from T’s cultural compendium.

THE POUR
10 Grapes Worth Knowing Better
For many reasons, these varieties have either been unfairly dismissed or are little known outside their home regions. But they make joyful wines.
Altesse, Areni, Baga, Bobal, Brachetto, Fer Servadou, Frontenac, Mandilaria, Pecorino, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzese,
By Eric Asimov

The Case for Induction Cooking
As the perils of cooking with gas become more apparent, there’s ever more reason for cooks to turn to these flameless, easy-to-clean ranges.
By MELISSA CLARK

TRILOBITES
When Pigs Cry: Tool Decodes the Emotional Lives of Swine
An algorithm built by European researchers could help farmers “speak pig” to improve the animals’ welfare.
By CORINNE PURTILL

McDonald’s Ice Cream Woes Have Inspired Memes, Mockery and Now, a Federal Lawsuit
A California tech company that tried to solve the problem of malfunctioning ice cream machines claims in the suit that it was thwarted by McDonald’s.
When the ice cream machines stop working at McDonald’s, they set off particularly strong emotions in disappointed customers.
By Maria Cramer

COOKING CLASS
The Milk and Cookies Cake Roxane Gay Swears By
Frosted with buttercream and finished with chocolate chips, this confection is so good you don’t need a special occasion to bake it, the writer says.

Gay uses a slightly different recipe for the fluffy mascarpone buttercream.
By ANDRÉ WHEELER

The Pillowy Magic of Milk Bread
Milk bread at its best is soft and almost sweet, with a wispy, ethereal texture.

By ERIC KIM

These Garlic Noodles Are Magic
J. Kenji López-Alt’s recipe uses a garlic-butter sauce and ingredients full of umami for maximum flavor.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Crème de Cassis for the 21st Century
You can use this black currant-based liqueur in more than just kir. Here’s how to use it at home.

Stirred into a split of bourbon and rye, crème de cassis helps create a contemporary take on a manhattan.
By Rebekah Peppler

Chowhound Closes After 25 Years of Food Obsession, Wisdom and Debate
Founded in 1997 as a place for New York restaurant lovers, the site became a nationwide forum for dining and culinary discourse.
An early web home for food fanatics, Chowhound will close after 25 years, its moderators announced.
By Eric Asimov

Sally Schmitt, Trend-Setting Restaurateur, Is Dead at 90
She founded the French Laundry in the Napa Valley with her husband, Don, and is often cited as a pioneer in California cuisine.

The restaurateur Sally Schmitt at her farm in Philo, Calif., in 2019. In 1978 she and her husband, Don, opened the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and helped solidify the Napa Valley as a food-and-wine destination.
By NEIL GENZLINGER

Charles E. Entenmann, Last of a Storied Baking Family, Dies at 92
Working with his brothers and their mother, he helped turn the company that bore their name into a nationally known symbol of sweetness.

Charles Entenmann at one of his company’s dough-making machines in 1976. One of three brothers who ran the company with their mother, he had a knack for engineering and administration.
By JAMES BARRON

Fred Ferretti, Reporter Turned Writer on Food, Dies at 90
He covered every aspect of dining for The Times from 1969 to 1986 and then became a columnist for Gourmet magazine.

Fred Ferretti in 2008 with his wife, Yin-Fei Lo, an authority on Chinese cuisine. For a time they reviewed restaurants together.
By SAM ROBERTS

Alain Graillot, Influential Rhône Valley Winemaker, Dies at 77
Skilled, charismatic and energetic, he found success in a region that had not been esteemed for its wines, helping to raise its international reputation.

The winemaker Alain Graillot, right, with his son Maxime in an undated photo
By ERIC ASIMOV

Food Companies, Long Symbols of the West in Russia, Pause Operations
After years of cultivating the Russian market, McDonald’s, Starbucks, PepsiCo and Coca-Cola said they would temporarily close locations or stop selling products there.
By JULIE CRESWELL

One Huge Hog, One Long Day and a Nourishing Southern Tradition
At his farm in South Carolina, Marvin Ross is carrying on the ritual of hog slaughters, a disappearing staple of Black agrarian life.
By KAYLA STEWART and CLAY WILLIAMS

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Once Obscured in the U.S., Lao Cooks Share and Celebrate Their Cuisine
At times spicy and bitter, salty and pungent, herbaceous and sour — Lao food is intensely delicious.

Thum mak hoong, or papaya salad, is a fundamental dish in Lao cuisine, with as many variations as there are cooks.
By TEJAL RAO

These Garlic Noodles Cross Cultures, but Are Deeply San Franciscan
J. Kenji López-Alt’s take on a beloved Vietnamese American dish, invented by Helene An of Thanh Long restaurant, is creamy, garlic-packed and full of smart techniques.

These simple noodles, ready in 15 minutes, go extremely well with seafood.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

The Dreamiest Desserts Start With These Two Flavors
Kesar pista, an intoxicating combination of fragrant saffron and earthy pistachio, is a favorite on the Indian subcontinent — and an excellent base for many sweets.

Kesar pista, or saffron and pistachio, is a flavor combination that can work well in practically any dessert.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

SHOPPING GUIDE
Shopping for Teapots
Because a beautiful teapot makes drinking tea even better.
By TIM MCKEOUGH

FRONT BURNER
This Greek Olive Vodka Calls for a Martini
Kástra Elión is distilled from wheat and a mixture of olives hand-picked in Nafpaktos, Greece.

Kástra Elión Vodka, $55, reservebar.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Out of the Desert, a Rare Fruit Garden and a Lasting Legacy
Dr. Alois Falkenstein put decades of work into breeding and cultivating rare fruits in the Arizona desert, and created a community of like-minded gardeners.
By DAVID BLAKEMAN

Mistakes Happen. In the Kitchen, That Can Be the Best Thing.
For her final column, Dorie Greenspan shares how a recipe misstep led to perfectly imperfect chocolate thumbprint cookies.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

I’m common as muck and spent £150 in a Michelin star restaurant to see if it was worth it
I went to Adams in the city centre and the food had me in tears
ByKirsty Bosley

Dorayaki, galettes and blintzes: Yotam Ottolenghi’s pancake recipes from around the world
Give Pancake Day the flip with brunchable Breton-style stuffed buckwheat galettes, Japanese coffee-cream pancake buns, or these irresistible foldover crepes soaked in a lemon curd mascarpone syrupI’m common as muck and spent £150 in a Michelin star restaurant to see if it was worth it
I went to Adams in the city centre and the food had me in tears

Yotam Ottolenghi

A GOOD APPETITE
This Greek Meatball Soup Is Lemony, Velvety and Bright
A riff on youvarlakia avgolemono, this dish is made with ground chicken and rice meatballs floating in a tangy, lemon-egg broth.

Every spoonful of this soup vibrates with flavor from citrus, dill, chicken stock and egg yolk
By MELISSA CLARK

For Today’s Cocktails and Tonics, Flowers Are So Much More Than a Garnish
From hibiscus to borage to violet, blooms are showing up in drinks and lending them beauty, decadence and a flavor all their own.

A champagne coupe full of peony, cherry blossom, linden, verbena and violet next to a pitcher stuffed with marigold, hibiscus, linden, peony, verbena and cherry blossom, which is also arrayed on the base.
By DIANA ABU-JABER, ANTHONY COTSIFAS and LEILIN LOPEZ-TOLEDO

The Diet Worked For Them. Now Their Pets Are on It.
Paleo, vegan, gluten-free: Owners are putting animals on human regimens and fueling a huge pet-wellness industry. But some health experts are concerned.
Darshna Shah is one of many pet owners who have created customized diets for their pets based on human wellness regimens.
By Priya Krishna

FOOD MATTERS
What We Write About When We Write About Food
Since the days of the Greeks, writers have been consumed by their meals. But are we writing about food — or is food a metaphor for something less palatable?
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Dreamy Breakfasts for a Long Weekend
Crepes, tacos and noodles are all great ways to start a slow day off.

By TEJAL RAO

12 Soothing Braises to Help You Get Through the Rest of Winter
A few hours on the stove or in the oven does wonders, turning hearty short ribs and dense root vegetables soft and silky

Ali Slagle’s Sunday sauce.
By Tanya Sichynsky

A Lamb Stew With a French Onion Twist
Simmering meat in a deeply flavored broth is an easy, adaptable way to dinner, J. Kenji López-Alt writes.

Part French onion soup, part lamb stew, this long-simmering dish is just right for the depths of winter.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

In This Roasted Orange Chicken, Every Part of the Fruit Shines
The peel is as important as the juice in this fresh take on American Chinese home cooking from Genevieve Ko.

Cooked to tenderness, orange peels soak up flavor while keeping their razor edge of bitterness.
By Genevieve Ko

The Beef Patty Is Jamaica in the Palm of Your Hand
One of our new Eat columnists, Bryan Washington, on a quintessentially Jamaican food that’s now found all over the world.

By BRYAN WASHINGTON

LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION
Try New Fruit. The Weirder, the Better.
Each tasting is a chance to be rendered wide-eyed and wordless.
By TRACY WAN

20-Minute Olive Pasta
Yasmin Fahr’s recipe blisters Castelvetranos in olive oil, then tosses them with feta and short, curly noodles for bold flavor.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A GOOD APPETITE
What’s the Right Crumb Cake Ratio? This Recipe Tries to Find Out
Melissa Clark argues the secret is in a base layer of cake that’s delicious enough to eat on its own.

By Melissa Clark

The New Secret Chicken Recipe? Animal Cells.
Here’s an early taste of the laboratory-grown meat that companies are racing to bring to market, and a look at the questions it raises about how we feed ourselves.
By KIM SEVERSON

U.S. Temporarily Bans Avocados From Mexico, Citing Threat
The move is a blow to the Mexican state of Michoacán, which exports roughly $3 billion worth of the fruit annually.
By JULIE CRESWELL

Forget Chocolate Bars: Baking With Chips Is Often Better
It’s not just nostalgia. Those bagged chips can lead to better-tasting desserts, Genevieve Ko explains.
By Genevieve Ko

IN THE GARDEN
Are Your Tomatoes ‘Epic’? If Not, Here’s What You Should Be Doing
Tomato experts Craig LeHoullier and Joe Lamp’l have some advice for you.

Nearly 12,000 heirloom tomato varieties are listed in the annual Seed Savers Exchange yearbook, a staggering choice for gardeners, who can choose among hundreds of hybrids for the right tomatoes to match their particular space and soil conditions.
By MARGARET ROACH

24 Brilliant Baking Recipes to Change Your Kitchen Game
These delectable treats are full of light-bulb moments that educate as much as they impress.
By KRYSTEN CHAMBROT

EAT
Chicken and Potatoes With Commanding Flavor
Country Captain is a Southern classic with roots in the British Empire. This Anglo-Indian version is simple yet luxurious.

By LIGAYA MISHAN

A GOOD APPETITE
Refresh Your Sweet Potatoes With Fried Eggs
Melissa Clark adds eggs, almonds and warming spices to a 2011 dish for a lifting, smoky meatless meal.

Roasting in coconut oil is the key to these sweet potatoes, which are delicately crisp on the outside and velvety within.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
The Perfect Sheet Pan for a Big Batch of Brownies
The higher sides on Nordic Ware’s new half-sheet pan allow for more options in the kitchen.

Nordic Ware Nonstick High-Sided Oven Crisp Baking Tray, $42.50, nordicware.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Del Monte Pineapples Go Pink
The company has been cultivating the Pinkglow variety since 2005 in Costa Rica.

Pinkglow pineapple by Fresh Del Monte
Pinkglow Pineapples, $12.99 each, $75.95 for six from Baldor Food, baldorfood.com; about $30 each from Melissa’s, Tropical Fruit Box and Full Moon Fruits. They’re also sold at some supermarkets, including Wegman’s.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Where to Start With Balkan Wines
The website Wine&More offers hundreds of wines from Croatia and the surrounding region.

thewineandmore.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

THE POUR
12 Natural Wines to Drink Now
For 20 years, natural wine has been dismissed as a fad or a fraud. Yet more people make it, more drink it and good bottles are easier to find.

By ERIC ASIMOV

Greece holidays
‘A unique culinary repertoire’: What makes food and drink in Thessaloniki so special?

Bars and restaurants in the popular Ladadika district of Thessaloniki, northern Greece.
Greece’s first Unesco city of gastronomy is famed for perfect pastries, spicy meatballs, wine, frappés and local specialities reflecting a rich cultural heritage
Elise Morton

How The Sims Became the Internet’s Most Exciting Place to Eat
The 22-year-old life-simulation video game has evolved into a world where players can farm, forage, cook and learn about the many ways people experience food.
By NIKITA RICHARDSON

‘A Sense of Crisis’ for Wasabi, a Pungent Staple of Japanese Cuisine
Climate and demographic threats are chipping away at a centuries-old culture surrounding the cultivation of the fluorescent green plant.

By MOTOKO RICH, MAKIKO INOUE and SHIHO FUKADA

PEOPLE, PLACES, THINGS
Home-Cooked Vietnamese Meals, Served Up Alongside Bouquets
In Berlin, a small flower shop is now offering twice-monthly lunches, with such dishes as spring rolls, crab noodle soup and salad garnished with edible blooms.

A Vietnamese spread of cá chiên (fried dorade marinated with garlic), sườn xào chua ngọt (sweet-and-sour pork ribs) and canh chua (sweet-and-sour soup with pork broth and mirabelle).
By Gisela Williams

This Chicken Will Take You to Spain
Ali Slagle’s paprika-spiced recipe with fries, inspired by patatas bravas, is transporting.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN

This Valentine’s Day, Make It a Kitchen Date
With this special menu, you can enjoy the splendors of a restaurant-worthy meal in your own home — and have fun cooking, too.

This dinner menu of individual beef Wellingtons, cheesy pan-seared radicchio and olive oil ice cream with hot fudge is as joyous to prepare as it is to eat.
By Eric Kim

These Bold Mushrooms Are Ready to Meet the Moment
Portobellos served atop a versatile chile-bell pepper sauce and finished with corn nuts are perfect for 2022, Yotam Ottolenghi writes.

Prepared indoors on a grill pan, this hearty and satisfying vegetable dish is a little bit of summer in winter.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

SHOPPING GUIDE
Shopping for Cake Stands
Because you might want to bake a cake for Valentine’s Day.
By TIM MCKEOUGH

How to Cook to Feel Good
Tofu curry, garlic rasam and dumpling soup deserve a spot in your rotation.

By TEJAL RAO

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Indigenous Ingredients and Inspired Baking Mastery, at Gusto Bread
A modern panadería in Long Beach, Calif., is challenging the idea of Eurocentric authority in the fine pastry realm.

By Tejal Rao

A GOOD APPETITE
The Magic of Meringues
Don’t be intimidated by this marvel of food science: It’s much easier than you think to get the lofty egg whites of your dreams. Melissa Clark explains.

This raspberry meringue tart is just the thing to impress your sweetheart on Valentine’s Day.
By MELISSA CLARK

How to make lemon meringue pie – recipe

Felicity Cloake’s lemon meringue pie.
An explosion of colour and flavour to blast away those winter blues
Felicity Cloake

How to Make the Best Meringues
Melissa Clark has tips to yield results that are sure to impress. Let her set you up for success.
By MELISSA CLARK

The Warm, Sticky-Sweet Resurgence of Hotteok
Crisp and chewy on the outside, gooey on the inside, the popular street food feels nostalgic for some Korean Americans, novel to others.

Hotteok, a Korean pancake often filled with sugar, nuts and cinnamon, was brought to the country by Chinese immigrants in the late 19th century.
By Priya Krishna

THE POUR
The Wine Business Sees a Problem: Millennials Aren’t Drinking Enough
As baby boomers retire and buy less wine, producers need new ways to tempt a White Claw generation back from other alcoholic drinks, according to a new report.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Restaurants to Customers: Don’t Call Us, We Won’t Call You
When restaurants abandon their phone lines, it can make the lives of employees easier but leave diners confused and frustrated — or relieved.
By Victoria Petersen

On the Cajun Coast, a Chef Grapples With Threats to a Seafood Tradition
From her New Orleans restaurant, Melissa Martin sees the environmental damage that could end the region’s rich culture of food and fishing.
By Brett Anderson

McDonald’s, now with higher prices, topped $23 billion in revenue in 2021.
Profit soared 59 percent from a year earlier, to $7.5 billion.
McDonald’s said global revenues for 2021 reached the highest level since 2016.
By Julie Creswell

Top 10 cooks in fiction
From PG Wodehouse’s ‘peerless’ Anatole to John Lanchester’s merciless Tarquin Winot, a novelist chooses her favourite kitchen creations
Annabel Abbs

A GOOD APPETITE
This Scottish Chicken Soup Is Its Own Kind of Medicine
Rich with chicken, leeks and prunes, this cock-a-leekie soup from Melissa Clark is a penicillin of a different order.

The rich fruitiness of prunes sets this recipe apart from many chicken soups.
By Melissa Clark

A Brand-New Cake From a Pastry Paradise
Paris’s Left Bank is brimming with sweets, including the financiers that inspired this elegant and easygoing dessert.

By Dorie Greenspan

The Accidental Vegetarian
Vegetable-centric meals aren’t just delicious; they’re also incredibly well suited for weeknight cooking.
By Nikita Richardson

A paleo-friendly chicken soup owes its velvety texture to a Cantonese cooking technique

By Ann Maloney

By The Way
Dragons, dumplings and draft beer: How three cities are celebrating Lunar New Year
By Huong Truong, Youngrae Kim and Amanda Villarosa

How to make the perfect pork (or chicken, duck or tofu) larb – recipe
Larb, larp, laap, lap … however you spell it, this salty-sour staple of south-east Asia has myriad versions, which won’t stop our resident perfectionist from seeking out the best

Felicity Cloake

The Best Wine Glass for Any Occasion: Our Critic Reviews 5 New Contenders
Each turns holding and swirling a goblet into a rare and sensual pleasure. But how do they differ when it comes to experiencing the wine?

These five high-end glasses are intended for all wines.Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
By Eric Asimov

Coronavirus Updates
Sarah Palin, who is unvaccinated, recently dined indoors in New York City before testing positive.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

New York Restaurant Won’t Face City Scrutiny for Admitting Sarah Palin
Elio’s let the former Alaska governor eat indoors despite a city rule that it ask for proof she was vaccinated. She wasn’t.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

Vegan Travel: It’s Not Fringe Anymore
From Mexico to Greece, plant-centric hotels, restaurants and tours are proliferating.
By ELAINE GLUSAC

How the Air Fryer Crisped Its Way Into America’s Heart
Though the device is sold as a way to make foods crunchy without deep-frying, home cooks have put it to countless other uses — and fed a billion-dollar business.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

Lots of Love for This Tomato Soup
Ali Slagle’s recipe is pantry-friendly and rich with garlicky flavor.

Tomato and White Bean Soup With Lots of Garlic
By Emily Weinstein

COOKING CLASS
A Soup That Roxane Gay Actually Enjoys
Soups aren’t always the author’s thing. But this tomato one, especially when paired with a grilled cheese sandwich, is just that good.

Mayonnaise on one side of the sandwich gives it “that really nice golden, toasted look,” Gay says.
By NANCY COLEMAN

Vegetable Soups for the Soul
These three vegetable-dense soups are the perfect antidote to January’s dreariness.
By TEJAL RAO

A French 75 for Everyone
Thanks to a deeply flavored citrus shrub, this classic cocktail can be adapted for those who are drinking, want something lighter, or who are fully abstaining from alcohol.

Let these no-A.B.V., low-A.B.V. and classic takes on French 75s be the stars of your next cocktail hour.
By Rebekah Peppler

America’s Next Great Restaurants Are in the Suburbs. But Can They Thrive There?
With a shift in demographics and tastes, chefs are finding an unexpected home for their ambitious cuisine.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

CULINARY ARTS
The Coffee Maker
James Hoffmann is one of the most followed men in caffeine. Here’s an illustrated look at how he became an expert.
By Rachel WhartonIllustrations by Koren Shadmi

A GOOD APPETITE
Counter the Winter Chill With This Farro and Gruyère Gratin
Melissa Clark takes earthy grains and bakes them with caramelized mushrooms and loads of cheese for a satisfying meatless meal.

Round out this gratin with a crisp green salad, or serve it as a rich side dish alongside chicken or fish.
By Melissa Clark

The Remarkable Versatility of Broccoli
There’s a lot to love about this big green vegetable.
By TEJAL RAO

Lentils You’re Loving
Lidey Heuck’s recipe, with sweet potatoes and spinach, is inspired by dal, but run through with Thai elements.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN

The Fish That Comes With a Year of Good Luck
A Hawaiian specialty cooked the way a local has been making it for 25 years.

By LIGAYA MISHAN

11 One-Pot Winner-Winner Chicken Dinners
Because no one needs more dishes to wash.

By MARGAUX LASKEY

FRONT BURNER
A Biography About Argentina’s Most Famous Red Grape
“Malbec Mon Amour,” written by two directors at the Bodega Catena Zapata winery in Mendoza, tells the story of a grape that likes to travel.

“Malbec Mon Amour” by Laura Catena and Alejandro Vigil (Catapulta Editores, $24.99).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

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THE POUR
20 Under $20: Beckoning Bottles in the Dead of Winter
These 20 wines are not from the most famous regions. But they are great values and, most important, delicious.

By Eric Asimov

Ed Schoenfeld, Impresario of Chinese Cuisine, Dies at 72
He helped introduce New Yorkers to the breadth of Chinese regional food with a series of top-rated Manhattan restaurants in the 1970s and ’80s.

Ed Schoenfeld in 2012. In New York in the 1970s and ’80s, he became a highly visible interpreter and spokesman for the food culture of China, terra incognita for most Americans at the time.
By William Grimes