Monthly Archives: April 2021

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Marighella
NYT Critic’s Pick | Action, Drama, History, Thriller | Directed by Wagner Moura
Wagner Moura’s provocative feature debut chronicles the armed struggle led by Carlos Marighella against Brazil’s military dictatorship in the 1960s.


Seu Jorge in “Marighella.”
By DEVIKA GIRISH

The Mitchells vs. the Machines
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG | Animation, Adventure, Comedy, Family, Sci-Fi | Directed by Michael Rianda, Jeff Rowe
A family of lovable kooks are the last hope against a robot apocalypse in this hilarious animated Netflix film.


Abbi Jacobson voices Katie Mitchell in “The Mitchells vs. the Machines.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

About Endlessness
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, Fantasy | Directed by Roy Andersson
Roy Andersson’s latest feature is a somber, exhilarating collection of self-defeating human specimens.


Martin Serner carrying a cross in “About Endlessness.”
By A.O. SCOTT

Limbo
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama | Directed by Ben Sharrock
A Syrian refugee deposited on a remote Scottish isle seeks meaning in his isolated surroundings, with wryly funny results.


By GLENN KENNY

Best Summer Ever
NYT Critic’s Pick | Musical | Directed by Michael Parks Randa, Lauren Smitelli
A largely disabled cast leads this charming teen musical.


Rickey Wilson Jr. & Shannon DeVido in “Best Summer Ever.”
By CALUM MARSH

— Of Possible Interest —

Cliff Walkers
Thriller | Directed by Yimou Zhang
Zhang Yimou turns his hand to a fast-paced spy thriller set during the Japanese occupation of Manchuria.


Liu Haocun in “Cliff Walkers.”
By GLENN KENNY

Four Good Days
R | Drama | Directed by Rodrigo García
In this drama, Mila Kunis plays a heroin addict and Glenn Close the mother trying to help her get clean.


Mila Kunis and Glenn Close in “Four Good Days.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Berlin Alexanderplatz
Drama | Directed by Burhan Qurbani
Burhan Qurbani’s film reinterprets a classic German novel into the story of a 21st-century immigrant from Guinea-Bissau surviving under the thumb of a brutal drug dealer.


Albrecht Schuch and Welket Bungué in “Berlin Alexanderplatz.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

Things Heard & Seen
TV-MA | Drama, Horror, Mystery, Thriller | Directed by Shari Springer Berman, Robert Pulcini
Amanda Seyfried and James Norton move into a haunted house in this busy, creaky Netflix thriller.


Amanda Seyfried in “Things Heard & Seen,” set in a Hudson Valley college town.
By A.O. SCOTT

Food! Glorious Food!

The Island Is Idyllic. As a Workplace, It’s Toxic.
Globe-trotting diners flock to the Willows Inn’s serene Northwest setting. But former employees say faked ingredients, sexual harassment and an abusive kitchen are the real story.
By JULIA MOSKIN

With No Frills or Celebrities, Cookpad Is a Global Go-To for Recipes
Born in Japan and a hit around the world, the recipe-sharing site has been less successful in America. Yet it has a small, fervent following among immigrants.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

Epicurious Has a Beef With Beef
The popular cooking website will not publish new beef recipes over concerns about climate change. “We think of this decision as not anti-beef but rather pro-planet,” an article said.
By DERRICK BRYSON TAYLOR and CHRISTINA MORALES

5 Takeaways From the New Food Allergy Law
Sesame becomes a “major allergen,” joining milk, eggs, fish, shellfish, tree nuts, peanuts, wheat and soybeans.
By ERIC ATHAS

A GOOD APPETITE
The Key to Easy Summer Baking Is in the Freezer Aisle
The best, most adaptable tarts start with a store-bought puff pastry, to be topped with any fruits or vegetables you like.

This savory vegetable tart works with a number of toppings.
This savory vegetable tart works with a number of toppings.
By Melissa Clark

This Vegan Ramen Maximizes Flavor and Time
The rich, creamy broth in this tantanmen tastes like it’s been cooked much longer.


By Hetty McKinnon

FRONT BURNER
Salsa Macha Hecho en Los Angeles
The masa purveyor Masienda has released a line of three potent salsas machas.


Pura Macha salsas, $18 for nine ounces ($54 for three flavors), masienda.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
This Scoop Is Summer Ready
This cast aluminum ice cream scoop looks like a cone.


You can’t mistake this ice cream scoop.Credit…MoMA Design Store
Dip Ice Cream Scoop, $28.80 for members, $32 for nonmembers, store.moma.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Zoom Discussion of Anthony Bourdain’s Irreverent Travels
The writer’s assistant, Laurie Woolever, will discuss their travel book with The New Yorker writer Helen Rosner.


“World Travel: Revisiting Anthony Bourdain’s Favorite Places” talk, Thursday at 8 p.m., tickets, $15, or $40 including the book, “World Travel: An Irreverent Guide” by Anthony Bourdain and Laurie Woolever (Ecco, $35), mofad.org/events/2021/0429/worldtravel.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

You’re Going to Love This Pasta
Hetty McKinnon swaps spaghetti for rice in her umami-rich mushroom stir-fry.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

A Sri Lankan Chicken Curry Grounded in Memory
Creamy coconut milk and homemade spice blends run through this warming kukul mas maluwa, inspired by a grandmother’s cooking.


Make this kukul mas maluwa in advance, and you’ll find it’s even better the next day.
By SAMANTHA SENEVIRATNE

How to cook the perfect Singapore chilli crab – recipe
A sauce-splattered Singaporean signature dish that’s so good, you won’t mind the dry-cleaning bill afterwards – but what’s the definitive version?

Felicity Cloake’s perfect Singapore chilli crab.
Felicity Cloake’s perfect Singapore chilli crab
By Felicity Cloake

Tomato/Feta Pasta

Stuffed Pig

Dirty Mustaches with Beans

Chef Nak

Dining Out in Hennepin County Through the Decades

NOVA on Chiles (Shamelessly Stolen from Deb Geisler)

THE POUR
10 New York State Wines to Drink Now
Here are top-tier bottles from producers in the Finger Lakes and Long Island, regions that deserve more respect than they receive.


By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Paris Calligrammes
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Ulrike Ottinger
The German artist and filmmaker Ulrike Ottinger takes us on an unhurried journey through her past.


Fritz Picard, who ran the Paris bookstore Calligrammes, which served German expatriates, in the documentary “Paris Calligrammes.”
By GLENN KENNY

Together Together
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy | Directed by Nikole Beckwith
A man and his surrogate navigate a bumpy road to fatherhood in this endearing dramatic comedy.


Ed Helms and Patti Harrison in “Together Together.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Red Moon Tide
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Lois Patiño
Subjects stand frozen against majestic landscapes in Lois Patiño’s meditation on how Galician mythology intersects with a village’s search for souls lost at sea.


A scene from “Red Moon Tide.”
By NATALIA WINKELMAN

— Of Possible Interest —

Mortal Kombat
R | Action, Adventure, Fantasy, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Simon McQuoid
The latest screen adaptation of the video game shows again that trying to construct a coherent plot around these characters is a fatal trap.


Lewis Tan in “Mortal Kombat.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Street Gang: How We Got to Sesame Street
PG | Documentary, History | Directed by Marilyn Agrelo
Even nostalgia-resistant viewers can learn something from this documentary version of a book on the making of the show.


Carroll Spinney, right, with Oscar the Grouch in the documentary “Street Gang: How We Got to Sesame Street.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Tu me manques
Drama | Directed by Rodrigo Bellott
A conservative father who could not accept his son’s sexuality is led on a contemplative tour of queer life in New York in this Bolivian film.


Benjamin Lukovski, left, and Fernando Barbosa play lovers in “Tu Me Manques.”
By TEO BUGBEE

Stowaway
Drama, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Joe Penna
This Netflix film pushes a crew of space explorers to moral and physical extremes when an unexpected passenger accidentally compromises their oxygen supply.


Daniel Dae Kim in “Stowaway.”
By LENA WILSON

Arlo the Alligator Boy
TV-PG | Animation, Adventure, Comedy, Family, Musical | Directed by Ryan Crego
This hyperactive animated Netflix musical for kids, with messages of empowerment and references to “Midnight Cowboy,” has a lot on its plate.


Michael J. Woodard voices the character Arlo in the animated film “Arlo the Alligator Boy.”
By AMY NICHOLSON

Food! Glorious Food!

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
On the Water in Alaska, Where Salmon Fishing Dreams Live On
Each summer, salmon begin their journey back to the rivers where they were spawned. Alaskan fishermen, along with whales, eagles and bears, share in the abundance.
By COLIN ARISMAN

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Vegan Cheese, but Make It Delicious
Cheesemakers are pushing the boundaries of cultured, plant-based milks, producing more compelling vegan cheeses than ever before.


The Barn Cat, a vegan cheese made by Stephen Babaki of Conscious Cultures Creamery, is part of a new wave of bloomy-rind vegan cheeses.
By Tejal Rao

FRONT BURNER
A New Source for Smoked Trout
Idaho rainbow trout is the latest release from Fishwife Tinned Seafood Co.


Fishwife Smoked Rainbow Trout, $23.99 for three 3.5-ounce tins, eatfishwife.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Helper for Eastern Orthodox Easter
The cookbook author Diane Kochilas now sells grape leaves from Crete for dolmas and fish.


Cretan grape leaves, 10.6-ounce jar, $16.95, shop.dianekochilas.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Flour Sack Towels With Flowery Appeal
A line of kitchen helpers, printed with photographs from Pauline Stevens and quotes from writers, arrives just in time for Mother’s Day.


Red Bird’s House Towels, $24.95; Mother’s Day set, $49.90, free shipping with the purchase of two or more, redbirdshouse.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Secret to Smooth Doughs and Fluffy Bread Is Already at Hand
Just-boiled water has long played a role in making pie crusts, milk breads and more shine, across cultures and cuisines. But how does it work?


The food personality Nadiya Hussain riffs on a classic Victorian-era hot water pastry crust for the base of her turmeric-rich samosa pie.
By RACHEL WHARTON

Another Unlikely Pandemic Shortage: Boba Tea
The popular drink’s main ingredient, tapioca pearls, could soon be in short supply because of delays in unloading cargo ships from Asia.

One boba distributor said supplies weren’t expected to return to normal until summer.
One boba distributor said supplies weren’t expected to return to normal until summer.
By Kellen Browning

This Vegan Ramen Maximizes Flavor and Time
The rich, creamy broth in this tantanmen tastes like it’s been cooked much longer.


By HETTY MCKINNON

These Leeks Are Anything but Humble
Yotam Ottolenghi cooks his leeks low and slow, in a bath of olive oil, until they’re magically tender and sweet.


Confit leeks with lentils, lemon and cream.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

A GOOD APPETITE
A Rhubarb Cobbler Where the Sweet-Tart Flavors Sing
Roasting sugared rhubarb until the juices condense into a tangy syrup makes for the best possible spring dessert.


This bright-tasting, flaky cobbler is gently scented with vanilla and a little orange zest.
By MELISSA CLARK

Yotam Ottolenghi’s 15-minute lunches – recipes
Two 15-minute meals that are perfect for WFH lunches: a quick-cook pasta with a zippy fusion sauce, and an all-day brunch of buttery asparagus and eggs on toast

Yotam Ottolenghi’s 15 minute miso, tomato and oregano pasta.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s 15-minute miso, tomato and oregano pasta.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

Cheese

Pasta Grannies

Peas

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Bill Traylor: Chasing Ghosts
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Jeffrey Wolf
Blues, silhouettes, two-dimensional figures at play. This artist created mystical experiences from whatever scraps he could find.


The artist Bill Traylor as seen in “Bill Traylor: Chasing Ghosts,” a documentary by Jeffrey Wolf.
By GLENN KENNY

Hope
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, Romance | Directed by Maria Sødahl
In this raw Norwegian drama, a cancer diagnosis forces a longstanding couple to face the fissures in their relationship.


Andrea Braein Hovig and Stellan Skarsgard in “Hope.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Barrett’s Privateers in the Morning

Classical MPR just played a gussied up version of Stan Rogers’ Barrett’s Privateers. The announcer said he was living in Hebron, Kentucky when the Air Canada flight caught fire and diverted to there when Rogers died.

Barrett’s Privateers
Stan Rogers
Ofra Harnoy, cello

Stan Rogers

Food! Glorious Food!

How Do You Write an Anthony Bourdain Book Without Anthony Bourdain?
After the author and TV personality’s death, his longtime assistant was left to finish his last book, a world travel guide.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

All Day, a Miami coffee shop and restaurant, has struggled to find workers, including baristas. The business closed for all of February because of staffing shortages.
As Diners Return, Restaurants Face a New Hurdle: Finding Workers
“I normally require three years’ experience, minimum, like zero exceptions,” Ms. Ramos said. “Now I’m like, ‘You’ve been here a couple times? I’ll train you.’”
By Brett Anderson

Masks Off, Mahi Mahi On. Restaurant Workers Are in a Race for Vaccines
As states open vaccines and restaurants to all, wait staff and food service workers are often left behind. Some chefs have even opened pop-up spots to get their employees shots more quickly.
By JENNIFER STEINHAUER

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
What Is Hospitality? The Current Answer Doesn’t Work.
The host-guest relationship puts all the onus on the server, particularly during the pandemic, and points to the dysfunction at the heart of the business.

A server taking a moment away from his tables in Rome, in 2008.
A server taking a moment away from his tables in Rome, in 2008.
By Tejal Rao

A Chef’s Quest to Preserve Cambodia’s Lost Flavors
Part historical record, part how-to for cooks, “Nhum,” a cookbook from the chef Rotanak Ros and Nataly Lee, pieces together recipes from a time before the country’s genocide.


Baked chicken with young jackfruit, a fragrant, family-style dinner that mostly comes together in one pot, is a special dish usually reserved for guests.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

Sugared and Spiced, This Creamy Porridge Comforts


A drizzle of tamarind purée lends a touch of acid to the creamy spiced porridge.
By Yewande Komolafe

A GOOD APPETITE
One Pan, 30 Minutes and a Superior Spring Salmon


Spiced salmon with sugar snap peas and red onion.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
A Classic Venetian Dish That Doesn’t Need Improvement
With some trepidation, Gabrielle Hamilton puts her own spin on risi e bisi — rice and peas.


Venetian rice and peas, with zucchini and Parmigiano-Reggiano-rind broth.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

FRONT BURNER
Paneer for Every Occasion
A line of three cheeses from Sach Foods shows paneer’s versatility.


Sach Foods Organic Paneer, $7.99 for six ounces, sachfoods.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Red Sauces With the Carbone Touch
Major Food Group is selling marinara, tomato-basil and arrabbiata that are good on their own with pasta, or doctored up to taste.


Carbone sauces, $39.96 for four 24-ounce jars, carbonefinefood.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
New Porcelain Designed With the Chef in Mind
Nancy Silverton helped design the new French bakeware line from Made In.


Made In Porcelain bakeware, $189 for a set of three; $269 for the set with the limited-edtion floral design; individual pieces, $69 to $109; madeincookware.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

From Gerardo Gonzalez, A Chilled Hibiscus Soup
The vegan, floral dish was among those that the chef, who’s been tinkering with the recipe for years, made for his quarantine pod.


Gonzalez tops the chilled soup with a dollop of cashew crema and heaps of dill.
By MARIAN BULL

Salmon Sushi Myths

Rangpur Lime

Bangkok Indian Food

Southern Thailand Giant Shrimp

Sweet Pasta and Pasta with Beans

Feeding a Roman Legion | Posca & Laridum

THE POUR
A Starter Kit for Aspiring Wine Lovers
By Eric Asimov

FRONT BURNER
Mezcal’s the Thing in a New Cocktail Book
Robert Simonson offers up scores of recipes for the Mexican spirit, and its cousin, tequila, in his latest book.


“Mezcal and Tequila Cocktails: Mixed Drinks for the Golden Age of Agave” by Robert Simonson (Ten Speed Press, $18.99).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
The Symposium’s Saucy History
A Zoom lecture explores how ancient Greeks used alcohol to fuel their discussions, and how that culture informed their drinking vessels.
“A Toast to Ancient Greek Wine Drinking,” 1 p.m., about 45 minutes long, April 15, free, archaeological.org/archaeology-abridged-webinars.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Make Sake Cocktails This Sakura Season
The Japan Society will host a virtual cocktail-making class in honor of the cherry blossoms.
Sake Cocktails: Sakura Celebration, April 22 at 6:30 p.m. Eastern, $20 for members, those over 65, and students; $25 for others; japansociety.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Shiva Baby
NYT Critic’s Pick | Comedy | Directed by Emma Seligman
The potential land mines of a young woman’s life are set to explode simultaneously in this tense comedy from Emma Seligman.


Rachel Sennott in “Shiva Baby.”
By JASON BAILEY

— Of Possible Interest —

Voyagers
PG-13 | Adventure, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Neil Burger
Emotional anarchy derails a space mission in this insipid sci-fi drama.


Tye Sheridan in “Voyagers.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

The Tunnel
Drama, Thriller | Directed by Pål Øie
Painfully cliché but sufficiently diverting, this is the latest in a string of disaster movies from Norway.


Ylva Fuglerud and Thorbjorn Harr in “The Tunnel.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Moffie
Drama, Romance, War | Directed by Oliver Hermanus
This grueling film about the South African military going to war with Angola is replete with vicious, stark depictions of racism and homophobia.


Kai Luke Brummer, center, in “Moffie.”
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

EAT
The Unsung Influence of a Pioneering Food Journalist
Jane Nickerson made Craig Claiborne possible and put the cheeseburger on the map. Her recipe for lime pie is a taste of Florida sunshine.


Florida lime pie.
By SAM SIFTON

Do You Have Nafas, the Elusive Gift That Makes Food Taste Better?
The Arabic word refers to a mysterious factor that renders some people’s cooking exceptional. Whether it’s innate or acquired is up for debate.

Labiba Halloun has been cooking for more than 60 years. She is known in her hometown, Isfiya, Israel, for her delectable food, like these za’atar hand pies.
Labiba Halloun has been cooking for more than 60 years. She is known in her hometown, Isfiya, Israel, for her delectable food, like these za’atar hand pies.
By Reem Kassis

Cappelletti

Arancini

Lemons

Honey Heart

FRONT BURNER
An Auction to Raise Money for Restaurants
The Conscious Collection includes lots of wine and spirits, as well as extravagant experiences like truffle hunting in Italy.


The Conscious Collection auction includes a chance to win a dinner for eight at Château Margaux.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

A Crawfish Feast Where the South Meets Southeast Asia
Spring is turning into a comeback season at Crawfish & Noodles, a Houston restaurant famed for the Viet-Cajun style that has spread around the country.


By Brett AndersonPhotographs by Sergio Flores

For all you foodie masochists out there:
How to Make Stunning Croissants at Home
Get those perfectly burnished, flaky pastries straight from your oven with this expert advice.


Croissants — plain or almond, or filled with chocolate or ham and cheese — are all achievable at home.
By CLAIRE SAFFITZ

Umami Is Often a Flavor Bomb. In This Creamy Pasta, It’s a Balm.
A versatile pantry staple in many cuisines, dried seaweed can lend a quiet savoriness to dishes, like this simple asparagus rigatoni.


Both dasima (dried kelp) and gim (roasted seaweed) add seaside nuance to this pasta.
By Eric Kim

The Easiest Way to Crunchy Homemade Samosas
Keep a stash, made from scratch, in the freezer, and fry them up as a quick snack to break fast, to host surprise guests or to just feed yourself.


Mint chutney is a cooling dip for crackling-hot samosas stuffed with spiced chicken.
By ZAINAB SHAH

Come Get Your Pork Chop!
Melissa Clark’s single-skillet affair pairs a rich chop with springy snap peas, mint and feta.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

WINE SCHOOL
When You Need a Wine Under $10


By Eric Asimov

Martha Lou Gadsden, Soul-Food Matriarch, Dies at 91
For 37 years she stirred the pot at Martha Lou’s Kitchen in Charleston, S.C., a modest restaurant that became known as a temple for Low Country cuisine.


Martha Lou Gadsden in Martha Lou’s Kitchen, her restaurant in Charleston. S.C., in 2011. “I know what I want done,” she said of her approach to cooking, “but to give you the recipe I’ll have to just make up one.”
By KIM SEVERSON

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

The Human Voice
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Short, Drama | Directed by Pedro Almodóvar
The first English-language film from the Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar stars Tilda Swinton and adapts Jean Cocteau to sublime results.


Tilda Swinton in “The Human Voice.”
By GLENN KENNY

Malni-Towards the Ocean, Towards the Shore
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Sky Hopinka
This ethereal experimental documentary by Sky Hopinka is an essential portrait of contemporary Indigenous life.


Sweetwater Sahme in “Malni — Towards the Ocean, Towards the Shore.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

This Is Not a Burial, It’s a Resurrection
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Lemohang Jeremiah Mosese
In this drama, a widow rises out of grief to protest a threat to her village.


Mary Twala Mhlongo in “This Is Not a Burial, It’s a Resurrection.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

— Of Possible Interest —

2021 Oscar Nominated Short Films: Animation
Directed by Michael Govier, Gísli Darri Halldórsson, Will McCormack, Adrien Merigeau, Erick Oh, Madeline Sharafian
From social justice themes to stories about grief and reckoning with the past, this year’s nominated shorts get serious.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS AND MAYA PHILLIPS AND BEN KENIGSBERG

2021 Oscar Nominated Short Films: Documentary
Directed by Sophia Nahli Allison, Kris Bowers, Skye Fitzgerald, Anthony Giacchino, Anders Hammer, Ben Proudfoot
From social justice themes to stories about grief and reckoning with the past, this year’s nominated shorts get serious.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS AND MAYA PHILLIPS AND BEN KENIGSBERG

2021 Oscar Nominated Short Films: Live Action
Directed by Travon Free, Elvira Lind, Farah Nabulsi, Martin Desmond Roe, Doug Roland, Tomer Shushan
From social justice themes to stories about grief and reckoning with the past, this year’s nominated shorts get serious.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS AND MAYA PHILLIPS AND BEN KENIGSBERG

Godzilla vs. Kong
PG-13 | Action, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Adam Wingard
Ape and lizard go toe-to-toe, with a cast of talented humans to comment on the action.


Godzilla on the rampage in “Godzilla vs. Kong.”
By A.O. SCOTT

Concrete Cowboy
R | Drama | Directed by Ricky Staub
Idris Elba leads us through the long-buried heritage of America’s Black cowboys, manifested in their modern-day urban descendants.


From left, Idris Elba and Caleb McLaughlin riding the Mid-Atlantic range in “Concrete Cowboy.”
By GLENN KENNY