Monthly Archives: May 2020

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Circumstantial Pleasures

NYT Critic’s Pick | Directed by Lewis Klahr


A new movie by Lewis Klahr, who makes striking, personal assemblages out of cultural detritus.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Papicha

NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Mounia Meddour


A young Algerian woman rebels against religious extremism in Mounia Meddour’s vibrant film.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

— Of Possible Interest —

The Vast of Night

PG-13 | Fantasy, Mystery, Sci-Fi, Thriller| Directed by Andrew Patterson


In a small New Mexico town in the 1950s, an eerie throbbing sound and a lot of questions send two friends in search of answers.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Food! Glorious Food!

TRILOBITES

Why Is This Chocolate Shimmering Like a Rainbow?


This tasty treat is additive free, and it turns iridescent with a little help from physics.
By Devi Lockwood

How a Teacher Who Moonlights Delivering Beer Spends His Sundays

One essential job wasn’t enough, so Kevin Bradford, a partner of Harlem Hops, took on a second one.
By Alyson Krueger

Pandemic-Baking Britain Has an ‘Obscene’ Need for Flour

The Wessex Mill in Oxfordshire, a family business started 125 years ago, is among the British mills striving to meet a surge in demand.
By Geneva Abdul

Plant-Based ‘Meats’ Catch On in the Pandemic

As the meat industry struggles to respond to the outbreak, makers of vegan substitutes are ramping up production to meet new interest from shoppers.
By Amelia Nierenberg

Mass Firing on Zoom Is Latest Sign of Weight Watchers Unrest

The company, which has broadened its focus to wellness and is now known as WW, let go of a large number of workers during simultaneous video conferences.
By Julie Creswell

FRONT BURNER

New Site Aggregates Food News

The cookbook author David Joachim writes the weekly DigestThis.news, from the barbecue website Amazing Ribs.
By Florence Fabricant

This Chef Has a Michelin Star and a Mission: Feeding Millions in India’s Lockdown

From his home in New York, Vikas Khanna, the TV host, writer and former executive chef at Junoon, is running a relief effort that distributes food to vulnerable Indians.
By Shalini Venugopal Bhagat

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

That Dish, That Restaurant: Vivid Memories to Savor

Our critic hasn’t eaten out in more than two months. But recipes can let us recapture certain tastes and moments, and remember how a restaurant meal can enchant.
By Pete Wells

Coronavirus Threatens China’s Devotion to Chopsticks and Sharing Food

Faced with the spread of the coronavirus, the government is promoting using serving utensils, but resistance is strong. Sharing food with personal chopsticks is one way Chinese people express intimacy.
By Amy Qin

‘Nothing Fancy’ Review: Mexican Food Through British Eyes


This documentary is an admiring visit with Diana Kennedy, who has devoted her life to researching and cooking traditional Mexican food.
By Jeannette Catsoulis

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

As the Restaurant Industry Struggles, the President Talks About Butter

A White House meeting with hospitality executives this week did little to clarify plans for millions of affected workers.
By Tejal Rao

12 Restaurants America Loves. With Recipes!

We’re making food from our favorite restaurants at home.

A Bright, Comforting One-Pot Stew With West African Roots

This brothy version of asaro is packed with yams, plantains and hearty greens.


This vegetarian stew is very adaptable: Use any potato that will hold up in the soup.
By Yewande Komolafe

A GOOD APPETITE

You Can’t Beat a Savory Babka

This cheesy garlic-scented, herb-speckled version may just outshine the chocolate kind.


Savory babka with ricotta and herbs.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

This One-Bowl Cake Is Worthy of Its Own Celebration


Whether it’s for a birthday, or just the long weekend, this classic recipe doesn’t need much to shine.
By Melissa Clark

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Joan of Arc
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Bruno Dumont


Bruno Dumont’s movie features a young actress as the saint in her later years — along with the French pop singer Christophe.
By GLENN KENNY

Villain
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Action, Crime, Drama, Thriller | Directed by Philip Barantini


An aging ex-con is forced into old ways in this superior crime thriller.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Diana Kennedy: Nothing Fancy
Documentary | Directed by Elizabeth Carroll


This documentary is an admiring visit with Diana Kennedy, who has devoted her life to researching and cooking traditional Mexican food.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Food! Glorious Food!

The New Face of Restaurant Hospitality Wears a Mask

As dining rooms slowly reopen, owners are scrambling to reduce risks and reassure customers with an array of gear. Face coverings lead the way.


The staff at Chops Lobster Bar in the Buckhead neighborhood of Atlanta preparing for a shift, in the facial uniform of the moment.
By Kim Severson

TRILOBITES

Elephants Really Can’t Hold Their Liquor

Humans and other species have a gene mutation that lets them digest alcohol. In other species, it’s missing.


Look at these lightweights at the Elephant Conservation Center in Laos.
By Rachel Nuwer

America’s Obsession With Cheap Meat

Meat-eating is part of the American identity, a tradition that underlies efforts to keep slaughterhouses open despite coronavirus outbreaks.
By JANE ZIEGELMAN

Alison Roman’s New York Times column on hiatus after flap with Chrissy Teigen and Marie Kondo


By Tim Carman

FRONT BURNER

A Cheese 20 Years in the Making


Hook’s Cheese in Mineral Point, Wis., is among the few Cheddar makers aging its cheeses past two years.
By Florence Fabricant

FROM THE PANTRY

These No-Bake Bars Are the Next Best Thing to a Peanut Butter Cup


Sweetened peanut butter topped with a simple chocolate shell, you’ll want to keep these treats on hand in the fridge — if they last that long.
By Melissa Clark

ONE GOOD MEAL

A Hotelier’s Spicy Fish Stew

As she prepares to embark on a new chapter, Liz Lambert has rediscovered the joy of sharing food with her family.


The finished product should have a rusty red color, a spike of acid and a touch of heat.
By Nick Marino

Glorious Chicken on the Grill

The hardest meat to grill can also be the best if it’s prepared and cooked properly. Here are the basic principles to follow.


Spatchcocked, slashed and stuffed with sliced lemon, this whole chicken stays juicy despite the heat of the grill.
By Clare de Boer

FROM THE PANTRY

This Buttery Caper Sauce Will Lift Any Vegetable (or Meat)


For a simple meal with loads of flavor, pair this sauce with in-season asparagus and scrambled eggs, or add it to whatever is in the crisper.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER

Torch & Crown Opens Its Manhattan Brewery


The company, currently brewing at a facility in the Bronx, will sell canned beer from the new SoHo shop.
By Florence Fabricant

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Graves Without a Name

NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Rithy Panh


The filmmaker Rithy Panh attempts to find where his parents, victims of the Khmer Rouge, are buried.
By GLENN KENNY

The Wolf House

NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Animation, Drama, Horror | Directed by Joaquín Cociña, Cristóbal León


A predator is at the door in a stunning new animated film from Chile.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Breaking the Ramadan Fast in Quarantine

The evening meal is usually a time for community, but this year, Muslims have to adapt.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

From Coffee Filter to Safety Mask, in a Hurry


Melitta, the German maker of the original paper coffee filter, retooled its production to make masks. A director called the filter’s perfect fit over the face “a gift from heaven.”
“The first million went to Melitta workers and retirees and their families. Most of the second million have already been donated locally.”
By CHRISTOPHER F. SCHUETZE

Pork Chops vs. People: Battling Coronavirus in an Iowa Meat Plant

After President Trump’s executive order, meat plants are reopening. Can they do so without endangering their low-wage workers and their communities?
By ANA SWANSON, DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY and MICHAEL CORKERY

What to Do With 50 Pounds of Potatoes? The Quandaries of Bulk Buying

The pandemic has turned many cooks into big-volume shoppers, and left them puzzling out how to manage a bursting pantry of ingredients.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

Uber Said to Be in Talks to Acquire Grubhub

A deal would unite two large players in food delivery as more people order in meals during the pandemic.
By MIKE ISAAC and KATE CONGER

Opinions

The rise and fall of Alison Roman

By Molly Roberts
Editorial Writer

Small Farms in N.Y. Are Experiencing a Surprising Boom. Here’s Why.

When the restaurants closed, factory farms lost their customers. Local produce is suddenly in demand.
By CHARITY ROBEY

If You Can Boil Water, You Can Make Dinner

With a few additions and smart timing, a simple pot of boiling water can become a complete meal.
By ALI SLAGLE

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS

An Intimate Look at Italy’s Saffron Harvest


In the Abruzzo region of Italy, harvesting the lucrative spice is a centuries-old tradition, infused with a deep-seated passion for the land and its history.
By SUSAN WRIGHT

Eating in Xi’an, Where Wheat and Lamb Speak to China’s Varied Palate

In the city’s Muslim Quarter, meals are a celebration of globalization and ethnic diversity — and a lasting defense against erasure.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

FROM THE PANTRY

The Coziest Vegetable-and-Sausage Soup for Those Chilly May Days


Make a big pot, brimming with roots and greens from the crisper, for a little bit of comfort.
By MELISSA CLARK

We Say Potato

David Tanis has three new recipes for all those Yukon Golds you have lurking in the fridge: for patatas bravas, potato salad and a spiced potato soup.
By SAM SIFTON

FRONT BURNER

Sea Urchins Star in This Food Film


A new documentary, now available to stream, looks at the history and habitat of the delicacy.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Chocolate and Cheese, if You Please


Websites help shoppers find mail-order cheeses, chocolates, farmers and purveyors.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Best Baked Beans


Ali Slagle’s cheesy, spicy black bean bake is a great feed, and even better with a little bit of crisp bacon crumbled on top.
By SAM SIFTON

Make Ice Cream, in a Mason Jar

If you are over quar-baking, iced confections might be the next thing.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

For Lemon Lovers

Tart, floral and intensely lemony, Alison Roman’s low-and-slowish cooked salmon is revelatory.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

11 of Our Best Weekend Reads

Joanna Gaines on empire building. A look at the future of travel. Walks that help us cope. Val Kilmer. And more.
By KALY SOTO

No Yeast at the Store? No Problem. It’s Everywhere in Your Home.

You just need to corral and nurture the stuff, which should be easy for anyone with some time and patience.
By HENRY FOUNTAIN

The T List: Five Things We Recommend This Week

Iced cookies too exquisite to eat — and more.

You Don’t Need Whiskey for an Old-Fashioned, or Vodka for a Cosmo


The classic formulas work just as well with many things you may already have in your bar.
By REBEKAH PEPPLER

EAT

A Bloody Mary Mix That Is as Good Virgin as It Is Spiked

Tomato juice doctored up with spices is a remarkable workhorse. I use it to brace myself for work or to unwind when I’m escaping.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

How to Build a Girl

NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy | Directed by Coky Giedroyc


Beanie Feldstein rocks as a nerdy high schooler who transforms into a music critic in this clever comedy.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Driveways

NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Andrew Ahn


A young boy and his mother find kindness and friendship from an aging veteran, played by Brian Dennehy in one of his final roles.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

South Mountain

NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Hilary Brougher


Talia Balsam gets a rare chance to shine in a lead role in this sharp domestic drama, playing a woman who learns of her partner’s second family.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Drive-Throughs Are Now a Lifeline for Fast-Food Chains

With dine-in restaurants shuttered and social distancing paramount, drive-throughs are now providing a crucial source of revenue during the pandemic.
By DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY

A Wendy’s With No Burgers as Meat Production Is Hit

Hundreds of the fast-food chain’s locations aren’t serving hamburgers and grocery stores are limiting meat purchases, as shoppers begin to feel the impact of meatpacking plant shutdowns.
By DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY and MICHAEL CORKERY

TRILOBITES

Your Chicken Is No Longer Pink. That Doesn’t Mean It’s Safe to Eat.

Next time you cook chicken, don’t rely on the color of the meat to tell you if it’s cooked enough to avoid food poisoning.
By JOANNA KLEIN

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

Will the Food Habits of Scallion Nation Outlast Quarantine?


The Great Depression and other hardships made lasting changes, but the recent boom in sourdough starters, vegetable gardening and buying local may not be as permanent.
By TEJAL RAO

Powerful Meat Industry Holds More Sway After Trump’s Order

The executive action signals that decisions around whether to close or reopen plants should be driven by the federal government, not local authorities.
By MICHAEL CORKERY, DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY and ANA SWANSON

A Quarantine Surprise: Americans Are Cooking More Seafood

In a rare bright spot for the fish trade, retail sales have set records, and consumers are trying species that even restaurants shy away from.
By PETE WELLS

Our New Favorite Ingredient


Americans are cooking a lot of fish these days, Pete Wells finds. And we’ve got recipes to suit.
By SAM SIFTON

One Tomato Sauce, Four Weeknight Dinners

With the addition of a few extra ingredients, one simple sauce can be transformed into four different meals and two versatile condiments.


Cook and freeze one large batch of tomato sauce to use as a building block for future meals.
By Kay Chun

7 Savory Pancakes for Any Time of Day


Prepare this easy savory pancake mix, pull a few items from the fridge and you’re just minutes away from breakfast, lunch or dinner.
By KAY CHUN

FROM THE PANTRY

If You Have Five Simple Ingredients, You Have This Dutch Baby


Stocked up on eggs, milk, butter, flour and salt? Make this weekend-worthy breakfast.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY

This Snickerdoodle in Poundcake Form Is Your Next Baking Project


Warming and gently spiced, this easy loaf cake comes together in just about an hour — and may not last nearly as long.
By MELISSA CLARK

Parmesan! Crusted! Chicken!

Take those boneless chicken breasts and give them a crispy, cheesy exterior you won’t soon forget.
By JULIA MOSKIN

Same Winery, Separate Labels


These six producers share a common point of view and work in the same facility, yet they are each making distinctive, individualistic wines.
By ERIC ASIMOV

In Japan, the ‘Murder Hornet’ Is Both a Lethal Threat and a Tasty Treat

Long before the insects found their way to American shores, some Japanese prized them for their numbing crunch and the venomous buzz they add to liquor.


Asian giant hornets from Japan in a display case at the Washington State Department of Agriculture.
By Ben Dooley

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Murder to Mercy: The Cyntoia Brown Story

NYT Critic’s Pick Documentary Directed by Daniel H. Birman


Daniel H. Birman’s documentary about Cyntoia Brown is a moving reflection of what criminal justice reform means in personal terms.
By BILAL QURESHI

Until the Birds Return

NYT Critic’s Pick Drama Directed by Karim Moussaoui


This tender, ruminative drama about contemporary life traces the singular moments that form the nodes of a shared national history.
By DEVIKA GIRISH

The Half of It

NYT Critic’s Pick PG-13 Comedy, Romance Directed by Alice Wu


In this comedy from Alice Wu, love letters reveal everything about a person, except their identity.
By KYLE TURNER

— Of Possible Interest —

Blood Quantum

Horror Directed by Jeff Barnaby


This Canadian zombie movie is more notable for its cultural backdrop and moody vibe than for its gore.
By ELISABETH VINCENTELLI

A Secret Love

Documentary Directed by Chris Bolan


This tender film explores the partnership between two women who lived, in public and to kin, as dear friends for six decades.
By NATALIA WINKELMAN

15 Years

Drama Directed by Yuval Hadadi


A gay Israeli architect in a committed relationship is undone when the specter of parenthood is raised.
By KRISTEN YOONSOO KIM