Monthly Archives: September 2021

Food! Glorious Food!

PHYS ED
Why Exercise Is More Important Than Weight Loss for a Longer Life
People typically lower their risks of heart disease and premature death far more by gaining fitness than by dropping weight.
By Gretchen Reynolds

Can a Low-Carb Diet Help Your Heart Health?
Overweight people who ate fewer carbohydrates and increased their fat intake had significant improvements in their cardiovascular disease risk factors.
By Anahad O’Connor

EAT
A Perfect Pancake for Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner
Chickpea pancakes, rich with olive oil, are topped with radicchio and roasted mushrooms.

Crispy chickpea pancakes with roasted mushroom salad.
Crispy chickpea pancakes with roasted mushroom salad.
By Tejal Rao

A GOOD APPETITE
This Weeknight Chicken Recipe Has Mass Appeal
Delicate boneless, skinless thighs cook quickly, aren’t prone to drying out and pair beautifully with a garlicky cucumber yogurt.

These deeply flavored, roasted chicken thighs with garlicky cucumber yogurt are juicy and weeknight friendly.
These deeply flavored, roasted chicken thighs with garlicky cucumber yogurt are juicy and weeknight friendly.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
A Founding Editor of Saveur Shares What She Learned
In her new memoir, Dorothy Kalins passes on the lessons she picked up while rubbing elbows with world-class chefs.


“The Kitchen Whisperers: Cooking With the Wisdom of Our Friends” by Dorothy Kalins (William Morrow, $26.99).
By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
Cheese Making at Jasper Hill Farm Gets a French Advantage
The creamery is starting to turn out even more of its high-quality cheeses thanks to several copper-lined vats from France.

The brothers and owners of Jasper Hill Farm, Andy, left and Mateo Kehler.
The brothers and owners of Jasper Hill Farm, Andy, left and Mateo Kehler.
By Florence Fabricant

ASK WELL
Can Drinking Alcohol Raise Your Heart Rate?
Drinking can elevate your pulse, which isn’t a concern for most healthy adults, though those with heart rhythm problems should use caution.
By Anahad O’Connor

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

I’m Your Man
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy, Romance, Sci-Fi | Directed by Maria Schrader
Dan Stevens plays a dreamy, pleasure-driven android in this delightful near-future romance.


Maren Eggert and Dan Stevens in “I’m Your Man.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

The Village Detective: a song cycle
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Bill Morrison
Bill Morrison, the poet laureate of lost films, turns the story of footage found near Iceland into a history of a slice of Soviet cinema.


A scene from “The Village Detective: A Song Cycle,” a documentary | Directed by Bill Morrison.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

The Most Beautiful Boy in the World
Documentary | Directed by Kristina Lindström, Kristian Petri
The 1971 film “Death in Venice” showcased the delicate androgyny of Bjorn Andresen’s face and form, but the changes it wrought on his life are indelible.


From left, Luchino Visconti and Bjorn Andresen in the documentary “The Most Beautiful Boy in the World.”
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Food Scholar, Folk Singer, Blunt Speaker: The Many Lives of Leni Sorensen
An irreverent historian who gets her hands into traditional cooking, farming and crafts is finally, at 79, winning fame with Netflix’s “High on the Hog.”


Dr. Sorensen’s house is filled with books, photographs and vintage kitchen equipment.
By KIM SEVERSON

How to Make an Unloved Job More Attractive? Restaurants Tinker With Wages.
As they struggle to recruit workers, many owners are raising pay. But some are trying to go deeper, to make their business fairer and more humane.
By Jane Black

Baking That’s Simple, but Always Satisfying
In her new monthly column, Genevieve Ko shares easy, streamlined recipes, like handmade crisps and cookies, so you can feed your loved ones (and yourself) effortlessly.


A generous proportion of nuts makes the buttery topping on this apple crisp extra crunchy and rich.
By Genevieve Ko

FRONT BURNER
A Wok Adapter That Really Works
Wokmon funnels the flame from a gas burner, focusing the heat on the pan for better wok hei.


Wokmon, small, $79.95; medium, $84.95; large, $89.95, wokmon.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Best Everyday Dals
These nourishing pots of lentils can be as simple or as extravagant as you’d like.
By TEJAL RAO

The Most Adaptable Pesto Pasta
Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe absolutely delivers with whatever substitutions you throw in.
By KRYSTEN CHAMBROT

26 Fall Recipes Our Food Staff Can’t Wait to Make
It’s time for soul-warming food. Here’s what the New York Times Food staff hopes to be cooking.
By NIKITA RICHARDSON

24 Low-Fuss, High-Reward Recipes Ready in 30 Minutes or Less
These weeknight (or any night) meals deliver deliciousness ⁠— and quick.
By KRYSTEN CHAMBROT

A GOOD APPETITE
Pasta Aglio e Olio Gets a Plus One
Adding fried pepperoni to a classic recipe with garlic and olive oil gives it a bacon-like brawniness and a chile kick.


Pepperoni pasta with lemon and garlic.
Melissa Clark

A Wedding Dish Worthy of Weeknight
Chicken steam roast is a centerpiece at Pakistani weddings, but it’s also become a dinnertime staple.

Home cooks have found ways to replicate this tender, juicy, wedding crowd-pleasing chicken.
Home cooks have found ways to replicate this tender, juicy, wedding crowd-pleasing chicken.
By Zainab Shah

Pasta Grannies:

Buttermilk Biscuits to die for:

Capers (In German):

FRONT BURNER
Join the Cider Club
A cidery in Michigan, Virtue Cider, now offers single-varietals in a quarterly subscription service.


Virtue Cider Society, $90 for four bottles, including shipping; each subscription box contains a $25 gift card, virtuecider.com/pages/cider-society.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

THE POUR
Great Oregon Wines Beyond the Willamette Valley
The Columbia River Gorge technically crosses into Washington State, but its energetic wines are pure Oregon in character. Here are four excellent producers.

Poplar trees act as a wind break at the estate vineyard at Analemma in Mosier, Ore., where a stiff breeze blows regularly.
Poplar trees act as a wind break at the estate vineyard at Analemma in Mosier, Ore., where a stiff breeze blows regularly.
By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

In Balanchine’s Classroom
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Connie Hochman
Former ballet dancers grasp at words to describe the genius of George Balanchine in this charming documentary.


George Balanchine, center, as seen in the documentary “In Balanchine’s Classroom.”
By TEO BUGBEE

Little Girl
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Sébastien Lifshitz
This sensitive documentary by the French filmmaker Sébastien Lifshitz naturalistically explores the struggles of a 7-year-old transgender girl.


Sasha is the subject of the documentary “Little Girl.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Cry Macho
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Drama, Thriller, Western | Directed by Clint Eastwood
In his latest film, Clint Eastwood drives across Mexico with a troubled young man and a combative rooster.


Good guys: Clint Eastwood and Eduardo Minett in “Cry Macho.”
By A.O. SCOTT

Wife of a Spy
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, History, War | Directed by Kiyoshi Kurosawa
In this latest work by Kiyoshi Kurosawa, a Japanese couple’s relationship is shaped by the forces of churning nationalism that surround it.


Yu Aoi in “Wife of a Spy,” by the Japanese director Kiyoshi Kurosawa.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

Saint-Narcisse
Unrated | Comedy, Drama, Romance | Directed by Bruce La Bruce
In this Bruce LaBruce melodrama, two twins, both alike in indecency, fall in love.


Félix-Antoine Duval plays twins in the Bruce LaBruce film “Saint-Narcisse.”
By TEO BUGBEE

Food! Glorious Food!

Breaking Down the ‘Wellness-Industrial Complex,’ an Episode at a Time
The “Maintenance Phase” podcast interrogates the science behind health food trends, fad diets and popular nutritional advice.
By Victoria Petersen

GOOD APPETITE
Need a Little Sunshine? This Weeknight Fish Has It in Spades.
These roasted fillets in sizzling brown butter are zipped up with nori oil, capers and, of course, plenty of lemon.


White fish with a caper-spiked browned butter is a classic, but, here, nori oil adds deep flavor.
By Melissa Clark

A Weeknight Pasta That Finds Freedom in the Familiar
There’s so much opportunity in a kitchen rut, Yotam Ottolenghi writes, and this generous pasta-bean-pesto dish proves just that.


Pesto pasta with white beans and halloumi.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

EAT
Fall in Love With the Dreamy Beans of September
Plump and supple, fresh beans in season have a creamy earthiness.


By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

Say Hello to the Tortizza, a Dinner Life Raft
These tortilla pizzas, topped with crunchy vegetables and salty feta, couldn’t be easier to make.

Crispy-edged and light, like lither thin-crust pizzas, tortizzas can be topped with whatever you like and nothing you don’t.
Crispy-edged and light, like lither thin-crust pizzas, tortizzas can be topped with whatever you like and nothing you don’t.
By Eric Kim

FRONT BURNER
Discussing the Future of Food
The writer Larissa Zimberoff will lead a virtual talk on how labs are growing new plant-based foods and changing what we eat.
“Technically Food: How Labs Are Changing What We Eat,” Sept. 21, 7 to 8 p.m., $10, or $35 including a copy of Ms. Zimberoff’s book, mofad.org/events.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Miso Mellows This Chile Crisp
Okazu Chili Miso is a richer, denser version of the pantry staple, made in Canada.


Okazu Chili Miso, $13.99 for 8.45 ounces, abokichi.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

This Salad Is a Party
Alexa Weibel’s chopped salad with jalapeño-ranch dressing is all excess, no restraint.


By EMILY WEINSTEIN

FRONT BURNER
Zero-Proof Bubbly for Any Celebration
Semblance, made from chardonnay grapes, pairs nicely with food and delivers a zip of carbonation.


Semblance Zero Alcohol Sparkling Wine, $30 for 750 milliliters, semblance.com.

FRONT BURNER
Gin and Tonics That Change With the Seasons
The four “elevated” cocktails at Sona in the Flatiron district make flavor changes for cooler autumn weather.


By Florence Fabricant

WINE SCHOOL
Love Wine? Here Are 10 Ways to Appreciate It Even More.
For seven years, Wine School has examined wines from all sides to help readers learn to talk and think about them. Here are some key takeaways.

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

The Card Counter
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Action, Drama, Thriller | Directed by Paul Schrader
Oscar Isaac, Tiffany Haddish and Willem Dafoe star in the latest head trip from Paul Schrader, a story about betting on life.


Inscribing his book of life: Oscar Isaac in Paul Schrader’s “The Card Counter.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Azor
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Andreas Fontana
In this low-key shocker set in Argentina in 1980, a Swiss banker travels through a world that he doesn’t seem to know is ablaze.


Danger is everywhere: A scene from Andreas Fontana’s “Azor.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Fire Music
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Tom Surgal
The beautiful souls that created free jazz — including Ornette Coleman, Cecil Taylor, Don Cherry and Carla Bley — light up this new documentary from Tom Surgal.


Ornette Coleman as seen in the documentary “Fire Music.”
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

How Eating Out Has Changed, From the Menu to the Tip
Early-bird dinners, sturdier pizzas, noisier streets: The pandemic has brought a host of new developments that could last awhile.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES FOOD DESK

Lawsuits Over ‘Misleading’ Food Labels Surge as Groups Cite Lax U.S. Oversight
A flurry of litigation by advocacy groups seeks to combat what they say is a rise in deceptive marketing by food giants.
By ANDREW JACOBS

FOOD MATTERS
The Ethereal Taste of Flowers
Attempting to describe the appeal of floral flavors raises a challenging question: What is the relation between taste and smell?
By LIGAYA MISHAN and ESTHER CHOI

Next Food Frontier: Fish Made From Plants, or in a Lab
Sophisticated, plant-based alternatives that mimic seafood are cropping up at restaurants and grocery stores around the world. And “cultivated” seafood, grown in labs from real cells, is on the horizon.
By MIKE IVES

Plant-Based Foods Expand, With Consumers Hungry for More
A broad variety of options are now available in grocery aisles and on restaurant menus, and more companies are looking to get in on the action.
By JULIE CRESWELL

13 Delicious, Original Ways to Eat Eggs for Dinner
Dinner can be inspired with these inventive takes on a world-class protein.
By Becky Hughes

EAT
The Simple Perfection of Fried Eggs and White Rice
The great thing about egg rice is that it’s hardly cooking. If you can fry an egg, then you can make egg rice.


By Eric Kim

A GOOD APPETITE
When Eggplant Meets Eggs
This silky end-of-summer dish, reminiscent in some ways of shakshuka, is run through with spiced eggplant, tomatoes and herbs.

Spiced eggplant and tomatoes with runny eggs.
Spiced eggplant and tomatoes with runny eggs.
By Melissa Clark

There’s Something About Miso
This pantry staple leads to big, umami-rich flavor in pastas, soups and vegetable dishes.
By TEJAL RAO

Preserving the Season at Its Peak
Try these three methods to capture the essence of summer fruit in jams and jellies.

Chunky jams and fruit jellies bursting with flavor will turn your simple breakfast toast into a celebration.
Chunky jams and fruit jellies bursting with flavor will turn your simple breakfast toast into a celebration.
By Yewande Komolafe

This No-Bake Cheesecake Is Devastatingly Good
Honeydew and cantaloupe become ideal for dessert when cream and sugar enhance their natural sweetness.

Where the thick, salty-sweet base layer of buttery crackers will satisfy the crust lovers out there, the creamy, soft-set filling will change minds about what melon can truly do.
Where the thick, salty-sweet base layer of buttery crackers will satisfy the crust lovers out there, the creamy, soft-set filling will change minds about what melon can truly do.
By Eric Kim

The Many Faces of Mooncakes
A celebration of the luminous autumn pastry — the signature dish of the Mid-Autumn Festival, which commemorates the full moon and the fall harvest.


Mooncakes are prepared at a restaurant in Suzhou, a city in Jiangsu Province in China. The pastries are meant to show off the best ingredients of a region.
By CLARISSA WEI

Recipes for a Little Joy
Caramelized zucchini pasta, slow-cooker tinga chicken tacos and more meals that are as simple as they are fun to make.
By Margaux Laskey

FRONT BURNER
‘The Big Book of Amaro’ Chronicles the World of the Bitter Spirit
Everything is covered in an encyclopedic new book by Matteo Zed, an Italian spirits expert.


“The Big Book of Amaro” by Matteo Zed (Countryman Press, $28).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Delores Custer, 79, Dies; Gave Star Turns to Cornflakes and Noodles
A longtime food stylist for big-name companies, she was a master of the craft and taught students all over the world how to sweat a glass or perfect the pizza cheese pull.


The food stylist Delores Custer in an undated photo. Her sandwiches were architectural marvels, her builds — to use the industry term of art — the envy of her peers.
By PENELOPE GREEN

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Wild Indian
NYT Critic’s Pick | Thriller | Directed by Lyle Mitchell Corbine Jr.
This drama from Lyle Mitchell Corbine Jr. captures the various wounds of individual, familial and generational trauma.


Michael Greyeyes in “Wild Indian.”
By LISA KENNEDY

Worth
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Biography, Drama, History | Directed by Sara Colangelo
This drama starring Michael Keaton is a surprisingly effective movie about a tricky subject — the creation of the Sept. 11 Victim Compensation Fund.


From left, Michael Keaton and Stanley Tucci in “Worth.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Faya Dayi
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Jessica Beshir
Jessica Beshir’s debut feature settles into a trance-like flow.


A scene from the documentary “Faya Dayi.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

— Of Possible Interest —

Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Fantasy, Sci-Fi | Directed by Destin Daniel Cretton
A millennial slacker reckons with his past — and his family of warriors.


From left, Xialing (Meng’er Zhang), Shaun (Simu Liu) and Katy (Awkwafina) in Marvel’s “Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

Zone 414
R | Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Andrew Baird
A blatant “Blade Runner” rip-off, this perfunctory techno-noir sees a brooding detective team up with an emotional android.


By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Food! Glorious Food!

EAT
A Holy-Grail, One-Pot Roast Chicken
It’s the simplest recipe: a little bit braised and a little bit roasted in a covered Dutch oven.


The juices from the Dutch-oven chicken give a salad’s vinaigrette a warm lusciousness.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

COOKING CLASS
For a Late-Summer Gathering, Try This Spin on a Salade Niçoise
Fanny Singer takes some liberties with her version of the classic dish, going so far as to include lettuce.


The finished dish, ready to be shared among friends.
By JAMIE FELDMAR

TIMESVIDEO
Cooking Class | Fanny Singer
The author’s riff on a salade niçoise incorporates market-fresh vegetables and grilled ahi tuna.
By SCOTT J. ROSS

This Rosh Hashana Salad Is a Fresh Take on Ancient Flavors
For the Jewish New Year, Joan Nathan composes a dish that pays tribute to foods that the biblical Canaanites might have eaten.

Ancient ingredients like barley, figs and pomegranates give this fall salad its sweet and tangy flavors. You can make it your own for the holiday.
Ancient ingredients like barley, figs and pomegranates give this fall salad its sweet and tangy flavors. You can make it your own for the holiday. Credit…Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.
By Joan Nathan

FRONT BURNER
The Blush of Pineapple, From a New Online Source
Full Moon Fruits sells a wide variety of produce, including a sweet pink pineapple from Costa Rica.


Full Moon Fruits, fullmoonfruits.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Streusel Cake to Write Home About
The Vienna Cookie Company’s new streusel cakes are an ode to the coffee shop crumb cake, but with fillings that stand above.


Streusel Cakes, $40 each (eight inches), $45 for a sampler, viennacookiecompany.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Last Call for Tomatoes and Corn
The end of summer is in sight, so make all the hot-weather recipes on your to-do list.
By MELISSA CLARK

What to Cook This Week
Start with a big Italian-inspired spread, then go casual later on with BLT tacos.
By MELISSA CLARK

A GOOD APPETITE
A Retro Icebox Pie Gets a Vibrant Makeover
Add some refrigerator alchemy to vanilla wafers, fresh strawberries and mounds of whipped cream for a dreamy, creamy late-summer dessert.

A layer of strawberry slices tops a creamy strawberry mousse in this pie, which is then covered by gelatin for a triple whammy of summer flavor.
A layer of strawberry slices tops a creamy strawberry mousse in this pie, which is then covered by gelatin for a triple whammy of summer flavor.
By MELISSA CLARK

Summer Squash Has the Range
Three recipes for zucchini celebrate the versatility of this seasonal staple.
By TEJAL RAO

A 15-Minute Sustainable Seafood Feast
Melissa Clark is here with a speedy no-recipe recipe for mussels.


By MELISSA CLARK

Tiger Nut Cake

Pasta Grannies

Rhine

FRONT BURNER
A Sip of Paradise
St. Agrestis’s new aperitivo, Paradiso, designed for the spritz, has a bracing citrus profile and a spicy aroma.


St. Agrestis Paradiso Aperitivo, $34.99 for 750 milliliters, stagrestis.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

13 Delicious Drinks for Late-Summer Sipping
Cocktails, coffees and every beveragino in between for all of your imbibing needs.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

For France, American Vines Still Mean Sour Grapes
French authorities have tried to outlaw hardy American hybrids for 87 years. But climate change and the natural wine movement are giving renegade winemakers a lift.
By NORIMITSU ONISHI

Rebecca Wasserman-Hone, Who Put Burgundy on the U.S. Map, Dies at 84
American born, she fell into the wine business and became a champion of the small vignerons of the Burgundy region and their ancient family farms.

Rebecca Wasserman-Hone at her home in Bouilland, France, in 2018. She once said that as a woman selling Burgundy wine in America in the 1970s, she had to have “the zeal of a missionary, the stubbornness of a mule and the ability to change clothes in a telephone booth.”
Rebecca Wasserman-Hone at her home in Bouilland, France, in 2018. She once said that as a woman selling Burgundy wine in America in the 1970s, she had to have “the zeal of a missionary, the stubbornness of a mule and the ability to change clothes in a telephone booth.”
By Penelope Green