Monthly Archives: May 2021

Food! Glorious Food!

TikTok, the Fastest Way on Earth to Become a Food Star
The app offers explosive growth for content creators. Gen Z cooks are taking advantage.
By TAYLOR LORENZ

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
The Perilous Hunt for Coconut Crabs on a Remote Polynesian Island
On Makatea, an uplifted coral atoll marred by decades of mining, searching for crabs often requires gambling with the treacherous terrain.
By ERIC GUTH and JENNIFER KINGSLEY

ESSAY
The Profound Significance of ‘High on the Hog’
A new limited series on Netflix is a nuanced celebration of African Americans and their food. It is also sorely overdue.

Stephen Satterfield, the host of “High on the Hog,” standing at the Gate of No Return in Ouidah, Benin, where enslaved people were forced onto boats for the trans-Atlantic journey. The series begins in Benin, with Mr. Satterfield exploring the roots of Black American food.
Stephen Satterfield, the host of “High on the Hog,” standing at the Gate of No Return in Ouidah, Benin, where enslaved people were forced onto boats for the trans-Atlantic journey. The series begins in Benin, with Mr. Satterfield exploring the roots of Black American food.
By Osayi Endolyn

The Making of ‘High on the Hog,’ Bringing Black Food History to TV
The new Netflix series tapped years of scholarship and the life experience of its creators to chart how African Americans have shaped the country’s cuisine.

"High on the Hog" begins each episode with a montage that includes the Geechee Gullah Ring Shouters, performing at the ruins of St. Helena Island’s Chapel of Ease, in South Carolina.
“High on the Hog” begins each episode with a montage that includes the Geechee Gullah Ring Shouters, performing at the ruins of St. Helena Island’s Chapel of Ease, in South Carolina.
By Kim Severson

OWNING THE FUTURE
How Food Trucks Endured and Succeeded During the Pandemic
Embracing technology, scaling down costs and general flexibility have helped them through a difficult time.
By KERRY HANNON

Know Your Onions (and Shallots and Leeks and Ramps)
Ever wonder about the difference between a spring onion and a scallion? A ramp and a scape? Melissa Clark has a crash course for you.


By MELISSA CLARK

A GOOD APPETITE
Succulent Sausage, and a Standout Couscous Salad
Crisp, brawny merguez runs through this summery, vegetable-packed grain dish.

Grilled merguez and onions with mint-lemon couscous.
Grilled merguez and onions with mint-lemon couscous.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
The 100-Pound Fruit That Vegans Love
The jackfruit is perfect for a meatless meal, especially like this spicy and tangy sabzi from West Bengal.


By TEJAL RAO

For Better Bakes, Perfect This Versatile Dough
At home in sweet and savory buns alike, enriched dough is a baking utility player. Let Claire Saffitz lead you to flawless results every time.

An enriched dough can be used in loaves, hamburger buns and morning buns.
An enriched dough can be used in loaves, hamburger buns and morning buns.
By Claire Saffitz

Pizza! Pizza! Pizza! https://www.youtube.com/embed/h6XvMKdD2tY

Our Dream Summer Dishes
All of the cold-creamy-crunchy-salty-delicious things our Food reporters and editors can’t wait to eat and drink.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES FOOD DESK

18 Condiments Our Food Staff Would Lick Off a Spoon
The sauces, spices and pastes that bolster our everyday meals can be windows to the soul.
By ERIC KIM

Pandemic Relief That’s Here to Stay: The To-Go Cocktail
Many states relaxed restrictions on the sale of mixed drinks in order to help struggling businesses. Some of those changes are now being made permanent.
By HEATHER MURPHY

THE POUR
When a Summer Day Calls for a Beer
As outdoor life returns, the warm weather calls for brisk, energetic styles that specialize in cold, straightforward refreshment.
By Eric Asimov

Jim Clendenen, Santa Barbara Winemaking Pioneer, Dies at 68
With exuberant charisma and relentless traveling, he promoted his label, Au Bon Climat, and the region as a wine hub.


Jim Clendenen in 2009 at his winery, Au Bon Climat. He had a striking leonine mane of hair well after long hair had gone out of fashion and a goatee long before goatees came back in style. His wines were similarly distinctive but never trendy.
By ERIC ASIMOV

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

NYT Critic’s Oxygen
NYT Critic’s Pick | TV-MA | Drama, Fantasy, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Alexandre Aja
Trapped in a cryogenic chamber with oxygen levels dwindling, a woman must learn how to team up with the machine in order to escape.


Mélanie Laurent in “Oxygen,” directed by Alexandre Aja.
By LENA WILSON

The Killing of Two Lovers
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama | Directed by Robert Machoian
Under the veneer of an unusual marriage is an uncontrollable undercurrent to which everyone is susceptible.


From left, Clayne Crawford, Sepideh Moafi and Chris Coy in “The Killing of Two Lovers.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

The Swimming Pool
NYT Critic’s Pick | GP | Crime, Drama, Romance | Directed by Jacques Deray
Alain Delon, Romy Schneider and Jane Birkin are among the reasons this restoration of a French thriller is worth watching.


Romy Schneider and Alain Delon in “La Piscine,” directed by Jacques Deray.
By GLENN KENNY

Those Who Wish Me Dead
NYT Critic’s Pick | RAction, Drama, Thriller | Directed by Taylor Sheridan
This thriller starring Angelina Jolie takes its time but doesn’t waste any time.


Angelina Jolie and Jon Bernthal in “Those Who Wish Me Dead.”
By BEN KENIGSBERGPick

Of Possible Interest — Especially after I fix ma time machine

For you Jane Ausen fans out there — you know who you are:
Opinion: A Jane Austen museum addressing Regency-era slavery? How sensible.


A general view of the former home of the celebrated late British author Jane Austen. (Dan Kitwood/Getty Images)
Opinion by Vanessa Riley

Missed ’em again:
Capital Weather Gang
Aurora sighted in northern U.S. as powerful geomagnetic storm continues
There’s an outside chance the northern lights could appear once again Wednesday night
‘A surprise storm rocking Earth’s magnetic field brought a rare display of the northern lights to parts of the northern United States early Wednesday, sending skywatchers staring upward at pastel hues. There’s a chance that observers could be treated once again Wednesday night as the display potentially continues courtesy of energetic particles striking the planet’s upper atmosphere.

The northern lights were sighted in Alaska and Minnesota, as well as across Canada and into parts of Europe and the United Kingdom. Their southern counterparts also made an appearance in New Zealand.’


By Matthew Cappucci

Food! Glorious Food!

Business
As his restaurants’ customers return, a Miami chef is missing a critical ingredient: Workers
Buoyed by a huge spring break and tourist influx, South Florida restaurants are having a boom, with no hourly workers to service them.


Chef Michael Beltran, second from left, jokes with his staff before the dinner service starts picking up at Ariete in Miami on April 30. (Scott McIntyre for The Washington Post)
By Laura Reiley

Humans Have Been Sharing Food With Animals for Centuries. Why Is That?
Researchers want to learn more about the connections between humans and the feeding of birds, beasts and other fauna.
By James Gorman

The Lure of H Mart, Where the Shelves Can Seem as Wide as Asia
The huge grocery chain and other megastores like it have revolutionized the way many Asian-Americans shop and eat.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Diet Companies See Gains as Americans Try to Drop Pandemic Pounds
In recent weeks and months, as people have ventured out more often, business has jumped for companies that sell plans to help lose weight.
By JULIE CRESWELL

Michelin Announces Stars for New York Restaurants
The French producer of guides announced the awards, with a few additions and no subtractions.
By Florence Fabricant

Njahi (Kenyan Black Beans) in Coconut Sauce
Kenyan black beans are cooked until tender, then simmered in an aromatic coconut curry sauce.


Chef Michael Beltran, second from left, jokes with his staff before the dinner service starts picking up at Ariete in Miami on April 30.
By Laura Reiley

FRONT BURNER
American Fruits and Nuts in Vivid Detail
A new book looks at the U.S.D.A.’s historical watercolor record of the nation’s pomological bounty.


Mangoes from “An Illustrated Catalog of American Fruits & Nuts.”
“An Illustrated Catalog of American Fruits & Nuts: The US Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection,” Atelier Éditions, $50.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Lighter Cast Iron Frying Pan
Vermicular’s new skillets are thinner than your average cast-iron pan, and can handle just about anything on the stove top.


Vermicular Frying Pans, $155 for the deeper 9.4 inch pan; $160 for 10.2 inch; $40 for glass cover; vermicular.us.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Ibérico Ham With Texas Twang
Raised in Hill Country, the pork from Texas Iberico relies on southwest flavors, like hickory smoke and chile.


Texas Iberico, texasiberico.com, tienda.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Our 11 Best Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipes
We’ve published many takes on the classic treat over the years, but these are the ones our readers return to again and again.

Alison Roman’s shortbread chocolate chip cookies are a perennial favorite.
Alison Roman’s shortbread chocolate chip cookies are a perennial favorite.
By Margaux Laskey

An English Manor for a Bowl of Stew?

Pad Thai

Summer Cake

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Ain’t none.

— Of Possible Interest —

The Paper Tigers
PG-13 | Action, Comedy | Directed by Quoc Bao Tran
A trio of aging martial artists reunite in this fresh, if uneven, debut by the director Tran Quoc Bao.


Alain Uy as Danny, a washed-up kung-fu fighter, in “The Paper Tigers.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Food! Glorious Food!

Michelin Announces Stars for New York Restaurants
The French producer of guides announced the awards, with a few additions and no subtractions.

Michelin introduced a sommelier award this year, and for New York it was given to Miguel de Leon at Pinch Chinese.
Michelin introduced a sommelier award this year, and for New York it was given to Miguel de Leon at Pinch Chinese.
By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
Wild Alaskan King Salmon Season Has Begun
Alaskan Salmon processes the fish from the Copper River and sends the delicacy nationwide.


Kyle Lee
Alaskan Salmon will charge $75 a pound (about three portions) in five-pound boxes for $375. They also have Copper River sockeye, the vermilion variety, $250 for five pounds. Alaskan Salmon, aksalmonco.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Sour Cherry Pies Straight to Your Door
Get a taste of Petee’s Pie: The beloved shop now sells its treats frozen and ready to bake, through Goldbelly.


Blueberry pie ready to bake from Petee’s Pie Company.
Petee’s Pie Company, $15 to $40, peteespie.com; or three six-inch, $79, or one nine-inch, $65, goldbelly.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Olive Oil Conquers the Plant-Based Dessert
Wildgood, a new frozen dessert brand from a Greek ice cream specialist, is an airy confection made with extra-virgin olive oil.


Wildgood Frozen Dessert, around $6.99 a pint at Wegmans, Whole Foods, Shoprite and other stores, or nationally, $9 plus shipping from wildgood.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Spice Mill Designed by Michel Bras
Le Moulin, available this month at Williams Sonoma, offers a cook nine grind-size options.


Le Moulin, $188, williams-sonoma.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

No-Knead Bread, Revisited
In 2006, it changed the face of baking. Now, J. Kenji López-Alt takes a fresh look at Jim Lahey and Mark Bittman’s revolutionary recipe.


No-knead bread was “the recipe that democratized bread-baking,” said the cookbook author Peter Reinhart.


By J. Kenji López-Alt

EAT
The Jam-Filled Pastry of My Dreams
A serendipitous trip in the Basque Country led Dorie Greenspan to this irresistible dessert.


By DORIE GREENSPAN

You Want This Sauce
Yewande Komolafe uses guasacaca sauce, made with avocado, herbs and lime, alongside roasted carrots and chicken, but you’ll want to put it on everything.


Yewande Komolafe’s guasacaca chicken.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A GOOD APPETITE
Gnocchi, Leeks, Soupy Greens: What Else Do You Need?
Wine-braised chard and those tender potato dumplings make a one-pot meal that’s perfect for the still-chilly nights of spring.

One-pot braised chard with gnocchi, peas and leeks.
One-pot braised chard with gnocchi, peas and leeks.
By Melissa Clark

Comfort and connection
To celebrate Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, we
asked Asian chefs and celebrities what role food plays in their lives
By Marian Liu

Roman Cheesecake

Is This the Oldest Bottle of American Whiskey? Is It Worth $40,000?
It was bottled after the Civil War, but tests show it was likely made in the late 18th century, offering a glimpse into early American distilling.


By Clay Risen

DRINK THESE
Surprise Mom With a Floral Cocktail
Flowers are magic. They are beautiful, uplifting and, when added to a drink, incredibly refreshing.


By CASSIE WINSLOW

WINE SCHOOL
Txakolina for Good Cheer, Wherever You May Be


By Eric Asimov

FRONT BURNER
A Sauvignon Blanc From Sonoma
After a small test release last year, La Crema is making a sauvignon blanc widely available just in time for summer.


La Crema Sauvignon Blanc, $25, lacrema.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Tomas Estes, Who Put Tequila on a Pedestal, Dies at 75
Starting with a popular Mexican restaurant in Amsterdam, he helped place the drink on the same shelf as fine cognac and single-malt Scotch.


Tomas Estes outside Café Pacifico in Amsterdam in 1976, the year it opened. His solution to escaping middle-class American life was to open a restaurant in Europe.
By CLAY RISEN