Monthly Archives: November 2023

Food! Glorious Food!

How Mortadella Went From Cold Cut to Hot Item
Helped by its millennial-pink hue and the rise of the charcuterie board, the Italian specialty is winning a new fan base of American chefs and consumers.


Mortadellas in Bologna can be so large that skilled workers need a coltellina, a sawlike knife, to cut them.
By JULIA MOSKIN

A GOOD APPETITE
A Cozy One-Pot Chicken for a Fuss-Free Holiday
With carrots, sweet potatoes and dates, this braise is a colorful main course for your Hanukkah table.


This recipe, inspired by tsimmes, keeps ease in mind, turning a simple side dish into a main.
By MELISSA CLARK

The Best Black Cake, a West Indian Delight, Starts at Home
For many in the Caribbean diaspora, there is no substitute for this deeply flavorful fruitcake.


Dense with puréed fruits and rum, black cake is a must-have specialty for the Caribbean holiday season.
By RAMIN GANESHRAM

A Simple, Lemony Pasta for Catching Your Breath
With braised white beans and juicy marinated cherry tomatoes, it’s the sort of vegetarian dinner I crave this time of year.


By MELISSA CLARK

The Longer This Cake Soaks, the Better It Is
The faint bitterness of Thai tea gets absorbed into tres leches, checking the sweetness, so it’s just enough.


By LIGAYA MISHAN

Which potato for which dish? How to choose the right spud for your recipe
Should you mash a maris? Do you know your king edwards from your duke of yorks? Our panel washes the mud off the mysteries of spud varieties


Never trust a recipe that asks for just any potato – if you use the wrong type, it might ruin your dish.
Anna Berrill

The best allergy-friendly nut substitutes for cooking and baking


Substitutes for nuts include dried fruit, chocolate and seeds, such as pumpkin or sunflower.
Advice by Becky Krystal

At 90, Madhur Jaffrey relishes her role as a groundbreaking food writer


Madhur Jaffrey at her home in Hillsdale, N.Y.
By Mayukh Sen

6 Indian recipes for curry, dal and more from Madhur Jaffrey


By Anna Luisa Rodriguez

Spicy soup, roast squash and nasu dengaku: Michael Wignall’s recipes for winter pumpkin and squash
Roast pumpkin and chilli soup with feta; butternut squash, parma ham and a pumpkin and sunflower-seed pesto on toast; and roast squash with a Japanese glaze


P-pick up a pumpkin: (clockwise from top right) Michael Wignall’s pumpkin and chilli soup with feta; squash, parma ham and seed pesto bruschetta; and squash nasu dengaku (AKA with a miso, soy and toasted sesame seed glaze)
Michael Wignall

The 20 best Christmas biscuit recipes – from brandy snaps to nutmeg shortbreads


George Fuest’s chocolate, rye and festive spice cookies, Ren Behan’s Polish gingerbread cookies, Becky Excell’s cranberry pistachio biscotti, Ana Ortiz’s alfajores de dulce de leche, Georgina Hayden’s tahini, almond and honey cookies, Ferdinand ‘Budgie’ Montoya’s paciencia cookies.
Allan Jenkins compiled by Holly O’Neill
https://youtu.be/DrcXr0X8W38?si=Vv27LGImljL91ZOy

For Her Next Round, Toni Tipton-Martin Orders Up a Book of Cocktails
The author of “The Jemima Code” has distilled 200 years of African American drinking know-how into her new “Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs and Juice.”


Ms. Tipton-Martin’s new cookbook shows how African Americans influenced American cocktail culture.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Against the Tide
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Sarvnik Kaur
Sarvnik Kaur’s breathtaking documentary about Indigenous fishermen in Mumbai brings to life an ecosystem wrecked by corporate greed and climate change.


The fishermen Ganesh, left, and Rakesh in the documentary “Against the Tide.”
By DEVIKA GIRISH

Napoleon
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Action, Adventure, Biography, Drama, History, War | Directed by Ridley Scott
Joaquin Phoenix is oddly mesmerizing as the French emperor in Ridley Scott’s historical epic charting his rise and ruin.


Joaquin Phoenix as Napoleon Bonaparte in one of the expansive battle scenes of Ridley Scott’s “Napoleon.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Frederick Wiseman
For his 44th documentary, Frederick Wiseman journeys to the French countryside to examine the workings of a family-owned, Michelin-starred restaurant.


César Troisgros, right, with staff at the restaurant Le Bois Sans Feuilles outside Lyon, France.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Monster
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Drama, Thriller | Directed by Kore-eda Hirokazu
This drama from Hirokazu Kore-eda traces a series of events from the perspectives of a single mother, her preteen son and his fifth-grade teacher.


Hinata Hiiragi and Soya Kurokawa in “Monster.”
By NATALIA WINKELMAN

Maestro
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Biography, Drama, Music, Romance | Directed by Bradley Cooper
As director and star, Bradley Cooper delivers an intimate portrait of the composer and his many private and public selves.


Bradley Cooper as Leonard Bernstein and Carey Mulligan as his wife, Felicia Montealegre, in “Maestro.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

The Boy and the Heron
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Animation, Adventure, Drama, Family, Fantasy | Directed by Hayao Miyazaki
The anime filmmaker returns at 82 with the enigmatic tale of a boy growing up amid war and fear, much as the director did.


Mahito Maki has a lot in common with his creator, Hayao Miyazaki.
By ALISSA WILKINSON

Beyond the Aggressives: 25 Years Later
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Daniel Peddle
This documentary from Daniel Peddle offers an update on the transmasculine people of color who participated in ballroom culture in the 1990s.


Octavio Sanders in the documentary “Beyond the Aggressives: 25 Years Later.”
By TEO BUGBEE

— Of Possible Interest —

Wish
PG | Animation, Adventure, Comedy, Family, Fantasy, Musical | Directed by Chris Buck, Fawn Veerasunthorn
Celebrating Disney’s 100th anniversary, the animated musical starring Ariana DeBose and Chris Pine, is a reminder of the studio’s vaunted past.
By AMY NICHOLSON

Happy Large Fowl Day!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=eUv1tq91NMY%3Fsi%3D6amvI18BKtz1nQec

https://youtu.be/eUv1tq91NMY?si=6cXUojlTsAoT3jfE https://www.youtube.com/embed/29XhRfrfsOk?si=kqHECOvwld2CQpBJ

Addams Family Values, Thanksgiving Play at Summer Camp, Full Scene

We begin this Turkey Day with Rex Huppke of USA Today finding that the pardon of two turkeys named Liberty and Bell by President Biden is highly suspicious and may warrant investigation.

The 81-year-old president, who is both feeble and incapable of thinking for himself AND a devious global criminal mastermind, pardoned two hulking, 42-pound turkeys at the White House on his birthday Monday. The young birds, Liberty and Bell, allegedly hail from Minnesota, though I was unable to independently confirm their place of origin. Is “Minnesota” some kind of code word used by members of the Biden Crime Family? Are we to believe the president issued these pardons without expecting something in return? Adding to my suspicions, I could hear the turkeys speaking a language that definitely wasn’t English. Isn’t that an interesting coincidence? Was it Turkish? I can’t be sure. So let’s see … we have two young, strong male turkeys who may very well hail from a foreign country. Did they enter our country illegally with intent to do us harm? Is that why Biden pardoned them? I’m just asking questions here, folks.

Link

He lived a quiet life — then donated $3.8 million to his small N.H. town


In this photo provided by Ed Smith, Geoffrey Holt rests his leg on top of his riding mower in Hinsdale, N.H., on April 4, 2020. Holt left the town of Hinsdale nearly $4 million when he died in June. DePayWalled
By Daniel Wu

How to Clean Up After Thanksgiving Dinner Like a Pro
Getting a handle on the cleaning that comes with cooking is about more than just dishwashing.
By Genevieve Ko

Food! Glorious Food!

A GOOD APPETITE
Keep Thanksgiving Going With This Leftover Turkey Soup
This fragrant recipe filled with chickpeas and farro is a cozy destination for the last of the holiday’s spread.


This heartier soup leans toward stew, but you can always add water for a brothier consistency.
By MELISSA CLARK

How to Clean Up After Thanksgiving Dinner Like a Pro
Getting a handle on the cleaning that comes with cooking is about more than just dishwashing.
By GENEVIEVE KO

Turn Your Thanksgiving Leftovers Into a Hot Pocket
Somewhere between a calzone and one of those Costco chicken bakes, this recipe from J. Kenji López-Alt makes the most of the feast.


Any kind of pizza dough works well to wrap your leftovers, but homemade and store-bought can offer the best texture and flavor.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

Our best Thanksgiving leftovers recipes, including soup and sandwiches
By Kari Sonde and Becky Krystal

The Rules for Thanksgiving Wine
How many bottles to buy and more holiday advice from our wine critic.
By ERIC ASIMOV

THE POUR
For Thanksgiving, 20 Wines Under $20
These lively, versatile bottles are perfect for a crowd. Don’t worry about pairing, these will go with anything.


By ERIC ASIMOV

Overlooked No More: Elena Zelayeta, Emissary for Mexican Cooking
Beginning the 1930s in San Francisco, she transformed the image of her native Mexican cuisine in the United States with a restaurant and popular cookbooks, all while overcoming a loss of sight.


Elena Zelayeta in the 1970s. She wrote four cookbooks, a self-help book and a memoir, starred in a TV cooking program, and started her own frozen food brand.
By MAYUKH SEN

Sally Darr, Formidable Chef of ’80s-Era French Bistro, Dies at 100
A skilled and self-taught cook of homey French fare, she drew fans (including Julia Child) to her Greenwich Village restaurant for more than a decade.


Sally Darr with her sous-chef, Guy Reuge, right, and a cook, Jim Pender, at La Tulipe in 1980. She had been determined to open “the perfect little French restaurant.”
By PENELOPE GREEN

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Fallen Leaves
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Comedy, Drama | Directed by Aki Kaurismäki
In the latest from the Finnish filmmaker Aki Kaurismaki, two lonely people find each other with tenderness, karaoke and deadpan comedy.


Quiet attraction: Jussi Vatanen, left, and Alma Poysti in“Fallen Leaves.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

The Strangler
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Crime, Drama | Directed by Paul Vecchiali
This strange, seductive film from 1970, directed by Paul Vecchiali, borrows the conventions of the serial-killer thriller and turns them inside out.


Jacques Perrin in “The Strangler,” from 1970.
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

The Lady Bird Diaries
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Dawn Porter
Lady Bird Johnson proves an engrossing narrator to her own story and that of a roiling nation.


Lady Bird Johnson, right, beside her husband, the newly sworn-in president Lyndon B. Johnson, upon their return to Washington from Dallas, where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated.
By LISA KENNEDY

— Of Possible Interest —

The Hunger Games: The Ballad of Songbirds & Snakes
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Drama, Sci-Fi, Thriller, War | Directed by Francis Lawrence
This slow-burning prequel tells the origin story of Coriolanus Snow, the future president of Panem.
By AMY NICHOLSON

Food! Glorious Food — The Fowl Edition

https://www.washingtonpost.com/wellness/2023/11/15/ftc-food-industry-dietitians-tiktok/FTC cracks down on food industry for paid dietitian ‘influencer’ posts
The agency said industry trade groups and nutrition influencers failed to adequately disclose who was behind paid advertising
By Caitlin Gilbert, Sasha Chavkin and Anahad O’Connor

How long is it safe to leave food out? The 2-hour rule, explained.
By Ellie Krieger

The Best Store-Bought Thanksgiving Pie Crust, Stuffing and More
Our panel of Times tasters scoured ingredient lists, picked favorites and passed along takeaways.
By JULIA MOSKIN

The Crispy, Juicy Joy of (Carefully) Deep-Frying a Turkey
Yes, the job requires equipment, lots of oil and a dash of common sense about flammability. But the rewards can be bountiful.
By KIM SEVERSON

The Ultimate Guide to Thanksgiving
We’ll get you through the day, one decision at a time: how to cook the turkey, which sides to serve, what to make ahead and how to end the meal.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY, LEO DOMINGUEZ and EDEN WEINGART

Claire Saffitz’s Thanksgiving Is Not That Complicated
This pared-down menu from the cookbook author lets you maximize your enjoyment.


A pared-down Thanksgiving can also be the most satisfying.
By CLAIRE SAFFITZ

These Five Thanksgiving Pies Are a Dessert Lover’s Dream
Make one or all of these updated classics and brand-new favorites from Claire Saffitz.

Clockwise from top left, a pecan slab pie, a cranberry cheesecake tart, a caramelized apple pie, a pumpkin pie with pepitas and a creamy lemon pie with honey and ginger.
Clockwise from top left, a pecan slab pie, a cranberry cheesecake tart, a caramelized apple pie, a pumpkin pie with pepitas and a creamy lemon pie with honey and ginger
By Claire Saffitz https://www.youtube.com/embed/0rHT0QPvLTc?si=u2q4GkzTRbyqr291

— OR —

Claire Saffitz Cooks Her Ideal Thanksgiving Start to Finish | NYT Cooking

Our Go-To, Won’t-Fail Roasted Brussels Sprouts Recipe
You cook them in a cast-iron skillet, meaning the sheet pan is free for the 534 other dishes on your menu.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES COOKING

Our 27 Most Popular Thanksgiving Desserts
Caramel apple crisp, tall and creamy cheesecake and a showstopping crimson cranberry curd tart.
By MELISSA CLARK

The Pies Are Here
Caramel apple pie, pumpkin pie with pepitas, pecan slab pie and lemon pudding pie with honey and ginger. Oh, and a cranberry cheesecake tart.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES COOKING

A Buttermilk-Brined Chicken in Advance of the Big Bird
With roasted brussels sprouts and Ina Garten’s lemony puréed potatoes, it’s a nice warm-up for Turkey Day.
By SAM SIFTON

A GOOD APPETITE
Thanksgiving Rolls Two Ways: Easy and Fluffy or Buttery and Rich
Melissa Clark has a couple of smart new roll recipes — a fast version made from pizza dough and another finished with coarse sugar and black pepper.

An overhead image of rolls on a sheet pan.
Black pepper and Demerara sugar make these Parker House rolls feel especially deluxe.Credit…Bobbi Lin for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Maggie Ruggiero.
By Melissa Clark https://www.youtube.com/embed/YYxFvOpBgnw?si=zSK1oDL6UrQ2by1R

— OR —

4-Ingredient vs. Secret-Ingredient Dinner Rolls | Melissa’s Shortcut vs. Showstopper | NYT Cooking

No Gluten or Dairy, but Plenty to Love in These Thanksgiving Dishes
Welcome guests with dietary restrictions to the table with these recipes that everyone can enjoy.


Fluffy meringue delivers the airiness of whipped cream in a pie with a nutty flourless crust.
By Genevieve Ko
Genevieve eats (almost) everything, but has been creating gluten-free and dairy-free desserts for friends for more than a dozen years.

FRONT BURNER
Turkey Potpie, Guinea Fowl and a Hybrid Turnip for the Thanksgiving Table
Aprons for a good cause, a roasting pan for the holiday bird and more food news.
By Florence Fabricant

A Really Great Polenta Finishes Off Strong
Infused oil gives a final kick to this dish with roasted-until-golden mushrooms and charred tomatoes.


By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

8 Nonalcoholic Wines for the Thanksgiving Table
These alcohol-free wines will help everyone give thanks this Thanksgiving.


By Florence Fabricant

3 wines to serve with your Thanksgiving dinner, starting at $16


Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Field White NV; Roots Wine Company Klee Pinot Noir 2022; Trefethen Vineyards Eshcol Red Wine 2020.
Perspective by Dave McIntyre
Columnist, Food

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Youth (Spring)
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Wang Bing
The documentarian Wang Bing examines the cloistered world of young textile workers in China.


Workers at a factory in the documentary “Youth (Spring).”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Dream Scenario
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy, Horror | Directed by Kristoffer Borgli
Nicolas Cage plays a mild-mannered professor who inexplicably wanders into others’ dreams in this wonderfully weird dark comedy.


Nicolas Cage and Julianne Nicholson in “Dream Scenario.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

A Still Small Voice
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Luke Lorentzen
This absorbing documentary follows a chaplain at Mount Sinai Hospital in Manhattan.


Mati, the chaplain at the center of the documentary “A Still Small Voice.”
By AMY NICHOLSON

Orlando, My Political Biography
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Paul B. Preciado
The filmmaker Paul B. Preciado shares the title role with 20 trans and nonbinary performers to make a point about the cage of identity.


Written and directed by the philosopher and activist Paul B. Preciado, the movie draws inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s novel “Orlando: A Biography.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

— Of Possible Interest —

The Marvels
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Fantasy | Directed by Nia DaCosta
Brie Larson stars alongside two Disney+ stars in this trope-ridden franchise installment, the 33rd movie in the Marvel Cinematic Universe.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Food! Glorious Food!

A Cook’s Tour of the Tokyo Food Scene
Taking a cooking class in the Japanese capital adds layers to an exploration of the city’s abundant supply of restaurants, from a pricey kaiseki spot to a chain noodle joint.
By TIMOTHY TAYLOR

Interview
‘On the brink of extinction’: a food historian’s hunt for ingredients vanishing from US plates
Emily Cataneo
In her new book, Endangered Eating, Sarah Lohman chronicles disappearing foods – and why they need protecting

INSPIRED LIFE
Apple hunter’s 16-year quest for rare ‘lost’ variety was just the start
‘These apples were going to be soon lost if I didn’t get busy and try to save them,’ said Tom Brown, who has located more than 1,200 varieties of apples


Brown at the Blue Ridge Folklife Festival in Ferrum, Va.
By Sydney Page

‘This Recipe is WOW!’
Emphasis reader’s own for Melissa Clark’s five-star coconut curry chickpeas with pumpkin and lime.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A GOOD APPETITE
Get Ahead on Thanksgiving With This Make-Ahead Turkey
Whether you’re driving it to dinner an hour away or you just want to plan ahead, here’s the best strategy for a Thanksgiving bird you can prepare in advance.


This spatchcocked bird — roasted at a high temperature a few days before, then cooked low and slow before serving — is notable for its crispy skin and tender meat.
By MELISSA CLARK

Jammy Tomato Eggs for a Bolstering Breakfast
And some low-key weekend cooking projects: easy tomato sauce, beef Bourguignon and sunny yellow limoncello.


By THE NEW YORK TIMES COOKING

FOOD MATTERS
How the Humble Sheet Cake Became Top Tier
In the world of special occasion baked goods, pastry chefs are embracing the birthday party staple for its vast canvas.


Sheet cakes by Noelle Blizzard of the Philadelphia-based bakery New June.
By MARTHA CHENG and SHARON RADISCH

The Sun Is Setting Early. Time for Mushrooms.
Savory, hearty recipes that feel especially cozy as the days get shorter.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

THE POUR
What if Wine and Cider Had a Baby?
A growing number of producers are fermenting grapes, apples and other fruits together, or blending wine and ciders, to make fascinating beverages.
By ERIC ASIMOV

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Nyad
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Biography, Drama, Sport | Directed by Jimmy Chin, Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi
Annette Bening plays the long-distance swimmer Diana Nyad as a woman who doesn’t pity herself. Neither does the film.


Annette Bening as Diana Nyad in “Nyad.”
By AMY NICHOLSON

In the Court of the Crimson King: King Crimson at 50
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary, Comedy, Horror, Music | Directed by Toby Amies
Toby Amies’s documentary dives into the history of the British progressive rock band King Crimson and its chief disciplinarian, Robert Fripp.


Bill Rieflin offers another perspective on the staying power of King Crimson. He chose to spend his last years alive touring with the band.
By GLENN KENNY

All Dirt Roads Taste of Salt
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG | Drama | Directed by Raven Jackson
Raven Jackson’s film offers a rich portrait of growing up in rural Mississippi and heralds a fresh, poetic talent.


Jayah Henry and Kaylee Nicole Johnson in “All Dirt Roads Taste of Salt.”
By LISA KENNEDY

Beyond Utopia
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Documentary, Biography, History, News | Directed by Madeleine Gavin
This film, directed by Madeleine Gavin, documents the experiences of defectors from North Korea.


Members of the Ro family in the documentary “Beyond Utopia.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Fingernails
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama, Romance, Sci-Fi | Directed by Christos Nikou
Jessie Buckley and Riz Ahmed play confused lonely-hearts torn between science and emotion in this adorable near-future romance.


Jessie Buckley and Riz Ahmed in “Fingernails.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Quiz Lady
R | Comedy | Directed by Jessica Yu
Sandra Oh shines in this road trip buddy comedy about a pair of sisters getting on a TV quiz show to pay the ransom for their stolen dog.
By BRANDON YU

Food! Glorious Food!

Baked Harvest Inspires Loyalty — and Controversy
From her hilltop compound, Tieghan Gerard has built a recipe empire and a nearly impenetrable bubble.
By JULIA MOSKIN

A GOOD APPETITE
Mom’s Favorite Chicken Dinner Gets a Makeover
Melissa Clark takes mustardy, bread crumb-laden thighs to new heights.


Panko makes this bread crumb-coated chicken especially crisp, but you can also use regular bread crumbs in a pinch.
By MELISSA CLARK

This Is the Ultimate Chocolate Cake
Claire Saffitz has cracked the code to an irresistible moist-tender cake that’s not too sweet and not too dense.


This supple cake is based on an oil-based batter, not a butter-based one, making it resistant to drying out.
By CLAIRE SAFFITZ https://www.youtube.com/embed/Oz3jorq9QKY?si=5yBxRsf4wAWmEoCq

https://youtu.be/Oz3jorq9QKY?si=3JB-ydOXcGfpzgoY https://www.youtube.com/embed/eUv1tq91NMY?si=IdfmrJYRu-yLj5FG

How to Carve a Turkey (and Plate It Beautifully) | NYT Cooking

It’s the Great Pumpkin Veggie
Save the big field pumpkins for carving (and roasted pumpkin seeds) and reach for a can to make coconut curry chickpeas, creamy pumpkin soup and a sheet-pan pancake.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

An Orange Cake From a Revolutionary Chef
Lisa Donovan weaves her own story into this recipe from Paul Bertolli’s “Cooking by Hand.”


By LISA DONOVAN

An Old Fashioned With … Brandy? This Must Be Wisconsin.
Two state legislators want to declare this the state cocktail. “I’ve had a couple of calls from people: ‘Don’t you have more important work to do?’” one said.
By SOPAN DEB