Monthly Archives: September 2019

Food!

So Saturday night, we made crab cakes for the dinner a la Short at B&K’s. I used a pound of crab claw meat, head of a clove, 4-5 allspice berries, some black pepper, thyme, Italian flat parsley, and cilantro, mustard powder, Worcestershire sauce, red peppers from the garden, shallots, garlic, two eggs, and ground Ritz crackers in ’em and on ’em. We didn’t form them up ahead of time, so that was a PIA. Thong did most of the breading and I did the flipping. We also made a fried corn salsa for them with grilled corn (3 cobs), parsley, cilantro, several hottish peppers, garlic, garlic chives, salt, and lime juice. We added one green hot pepper at the end that had a real kick to it. I also mixed some siracha sauce into a store-bought olive oil mayonnaise. We lined the plates with red lettuce leaves from the farmers market, an X of garlic chives, and a sprig o’ parsley or cilantro. I stuck the cake on top of the garlic chives, which was stupid of me. We started making small crab cakes, but they rapidly got bigger. B said, as we started, “Remember, there’s seven more courses.” He also ate one of the extra crab cakes, despite my reminding him of the courses to come.

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

First Love
NYT Critic’s PickComedy, Crime, RomanceDirected by Takashi Miike
The prolific director Takashi Miike delivers an unusually satisfying Japanese genre romp.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

‘In the Shadow of the Moon’ Review: A Twisty Romp Through Time and Genre
Jim Mickle’s unconventional serial-killer movie for Netflix is clever, if bloody messy.
By Chris Vognar

‘Sink or Swim’ Review: Pool Boys
In over their heads, these unlikely underwater artistes find their happy place.
By Jeannette Catsoulis

‘The Death of Dick Long’ Review: About Last Night …
Three young Alabama men have a less-than-enchanted evening in this dark comedy.
By Glenn Kenny

Food! Glorious Food!

‘I’ve Been Dishonored’: French Chef Sues Michelin Guide Over Lost Star


Marc Veyrat is disputing the downgrade of La Maison des Bois, his restaurant in the French Alps, which lost the guide’s maximum three-star rating.
By Aurelien Breeden

Would You Like a Tiny Fish With That?


Anchovies are gaining ground as a tasty and sustainable option.
By Maya Kosoff

When Mac & Cheese and Ketchup Don’t Mix: The Kraft Heinz Merger Falters
The company behind brands like a famous ketchup and Oscar Mayer meats is dealing with slumping sales, shareholder lawsuits, layoffs and questions about its accounting practices.
By Julie Creswell and David Yaffe-Bellany

Dean & DeLuca Closes Its Midtown Store
As the company falters, only its flagship shop in SoHo remains open in New York.
By Amelia Nierenberg

Is the New Meat Any Better Than the Old Meat?
The Impossible Whopper and other plant-based burgers are a hit. But are they an improvement for you and the planet?
By Alina Tugend

Where’s the Waste? A ‘Circular’ Food Economy Could Combat Climate Change
An ice company’s wastewater can feed a produce garden. Spent grain from a brewery goes to compost. Local, shared, recycled. Welcome to the future of food.
By Eduardo Garcia

You Might Not Want to Eat Bugs. But Would You Eat Meat That Ate Bugs?
Companies across the globe are banking on it.
By Eduardo Garcia

What Omnivores Get Wrong About Vegetarian Cooking
When you (or your kid, partner or roommate) goes vegetarian, you’ll need to change up your weeknight cooking strategies.


Smoked paprika and tomato paste give deep, round flavor to a vegetarian dinner of spiced eggplant and pearl couscous.
By Julia Moskin

The Vegetarian Recipes You’ve Got to Make (Plus Something for the Meat-Eaters, Too)
Our cheesy white bean-tomato bake, seared eggplant with pearl couscous, pasta with mushrooms and, naturally, The Stew.
By Emily Weinstein

Weeknight Dinner Around the World
We asked 18 families to show us what they have for dinner on a typical weeknight.
By SARA BONISTEEL, KIM GOUGENHEIM and LISA DALSIMER

Junk Food at Monticello? Alice Waters Helps Lead a Revolution
Spurred by the pioneering chef, the cafe at Jefferson’s estate has reconnected with his agrarian ideals.
By JANE BLACK

How to Boil the Perfect Egg
In his first column for The Times, J. Kenji López-Alt tests his way to the best egg: perfectly peelable and tender throughout.


To determine the best method for cooking boiled eggs, J. Kenji López-Alt orchestrated a double-blind experiment at his restaurant, Wursthall, in San Mateo, Calif.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

What to Do With Boiled Eggs


If you keep them on hand in the refrigerator, you’re never far away from a meal.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

Do They Give Out Pulitzers for Chicken Recipes?
Because this tangy sheet-pan number from Alison Roman could be a contender.


Weeknight cooking doesn’t mean lazier; it means smarter.
By Alison Roman

A Love Letter to Canned Food
Ingredients like canned artichokes, pumpkin, chickpeas and coconut milk can turn a weeknight meal into a semi-homemade form of art.
By Melissa Clark

How To Win School Lunch


Tonight’s chicken ragù with fennel can fill tomorrow’s hand pies.
By Kim Severson

27 Amazing Slow Cooker Recipes
Chipotle-honey chicken tacos, white bean-Parmesan soup and more recipes.

THE POUR
20 Under $20: Minimal Effort, Maximum Pleasure


On those nights when you just need to flop, find a wine that’s alive, interesting, easy to enjoy and moderately priced. It is the reward you deserve.
By Eric Asimov

The Future of Wine: Very, Very Dry
Scientists are testing techniques for growing vines in a hot, parched future.
By Amy Yee

Carl Ruiz, Celebrity Chef and Restaurateur, Dies at 44


He made frequent appearances on the Food Network as a competitive chef and celebrity judge.
By Mariel Padilla

Food! Glorious Food!

‘Oh-Oh, Ay-Ay!’ Riding to an Italian Rhythm on the Transumanza
On the twice-yearly journey to move grazing animals between summer and winter pastures, a writer finds a deep connection to an ancient tradition.
By Maria Russo

An Anthony Bourdain Auction Will Include His Treasured Knife
A year after the celebrity chef’s death, some of his things are going on sale to benefit his family and the Culinary Institute of America.
By Jonah Engel Bromwich

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
California’s Luxury Dining Circuit: Delicious and Dull
The French Laundry, the Restaurant at Meadowood and SingleThread have much in common: amazing precision, sky-high prices and a sedating sort of predictability.
By TEJAL RAO

The James Beard Awards Redraws Its Map
California, Texas and New York will become their own regions for the competition, reflecting shifts in population and dining.
By Kim Severson

Food & Wine Hires a Restaurant Editor Who Wants More Inclusivity
Khushbu Shah aims to expand and vary the legacy magazine’s coverage from a new bureau in Los Angeles.
By Amelia Nierenberg

Maple Butter Roast Chicken Is Everything


Make this sweet-and-salty recipe soon.

A GOOD APPETITE
A Sweetly Savory Kind of Bird
Roasted figs and pears lend a gentle sweetness to roast chicken.


This stunning roasted chicken splits the difference between savory and sweet.
By Melissa Clark

For Libyan Jews, This Spicy Fish Stew Is the Taste of Rosh Hashana
Most of the Jewish families with roots in Libya now live in Italy and Israel. Bright red aharaimi reminds them of home.


Traditionally, Libyan Jews eat a spicy tomato fish dish called aharaimi to celebrate Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year.
By Joan Nathan

EAT
My Mother’s Best (and Only) Recipe: Baked Apples
A workingwoman of the ’50s, my mother did not cook — except for this one perfect dish.


“I remember my mother in a soft cashmere wrap coat, a sequined cocktail dress (that’s what she was wearing when she came home to find that I’d burned down the kitchen) and in Capri pants with kitten heels.”
By Dorie Greenspan

FRONT BURNER
Pomegranate Mandelbrot for Rosh Hashana


By the Way Bakery’s new rimon mandelbrot offers fruitfulness for the Jewish New Year.
By Florence Fabricant

Here’s Your Monday Night Dinner
Make kalpudding, a Swedish dish that’s essentially a meatloaf with caramelized cabbage.
By Sam Sifton

The Ingredients Yotam Ottolenghi Uses Most
He’s been known to push the limits with tahini and lean too heavily on lemons. But don’t try to take away our columnist’s cilantro.


Yotam Ottolenghi’s sweet and spicy ribs use one of his favorite ingredients — cilantro (or coriander, as it’s also known) — a few different ways to deepen flavor.
“There are two ways in which you can push cilantro into the spotlight like that. One method, which many cooks revert to instinctively without even knowing they’re doing so, is pairing it with other members in a large family of ingredients called Umbelliferae. This biological grouping may sound obscure, but carrot, parsnip, celery, parsley, dill and cumin all fall under this umbrella and so, unsurprisingly, go well together.”
By Yotam Ottolenghi

The 13 Best Cookbooks of Fall 2019
Our favorite new books of the season, selected by Food reporters and editors from The New York Times.