Monthly Archives: December 2019

My Mother

My mother was exactly like Jupiter Jones in Jupiter Ascending, well, with bees anyway. In Jupiter Ascending, Jupiter Jones was Queen of Earth and much of the universe and the bees swarmed to honor her Majesty.

The bees reacted exactly the same with my mother, except they hated her. If she got within two miles of a hive, they would swarm and attack her. See, just like the Queen of Earth, only different.

Happy New Years to those of you on the Gregorian calendar. Asia’s is coming up soon, but it ain’t here yet.

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Invisible Life

NYT Critic’s Pick R Drama Directed by Karim Aïnouz
Two sisters living in 1950s Brazil are kept apart by their father but can’t be spiritually separated.
By GLENN KENNY

Little Women

NYT Critic’s Pick PG Drama, Romance Directed by Greta Gerwig
Greta Gerwig refreshes a literary classic with the help of a dazzling cast that includes Saoirse Ronan, Florence Pugh, Laura Dern and Meryl Streep.
By A.O. SCOTT

One Cut of the Dead

NYT Critic’s Pick Not Rated Comedy, Horror Directed by Shin’ichirô Ueda
A one-take movie stunt is justified in the Japanese director Shinichiro Ueda’s fast and furious backstage comedy.
By ELISABETH VINCENTELLI

— Of Possible Interest —

Cats

PG Comedy, Drama, Family, Fantasy, Musical Directed by Tom Hooper
Tom Hooper’s movie is not a catastrophe. It’s not even an epic hairball.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker

PG-13Action, Adventure, Fantasy, Sci-Fi Directed by J.J. Abrams
Resistance is futile. Rey, Finn and Poe are back; so is Kylo Ren. No spoilers here.
By A.O. SCOTT

Food! Glorious Food! — The Xmas Edition

Cheese Smells. Deal With It, a German Court Rules.

A fight over the food stuff ended up in court after a neighbor posted signs outside a cheese shop to complain about the stench.
By MELISSA EDDY

Chinese Restaurants Are Closing. That’s a Good Thing, the Owners Say.

The share of Chinese restaurants has fallen in metro areas across the country in the last five years. Many owners are glad their children won’t be taking over.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG and QUOCTRUNG BUI

Japan Wants to Dump Nuclear Plant’s Tainted Water. Fishermen Fear the Worst.

The water from the Fukushima disaster is more radioactive than the authorities have previously publicized, raising doubts about government assurances that it will be made safe.
By MOTOKO RICH and MAKIKO INOUE

SCRATCH

The Butcher, the Baker, the Candlestick Maker: Rub-a-Dub to 2019

By JULIA ROTHMAN and SHAINA FEINBERG

Confused in California

Nearing the end of his round-the-world trip, the 52 Places Traveler was confounded by the Golden State cities of Los Angeles and Santa Barbara.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

How Jimmy Neary, Irish Pub Maestro, Spends His Sundays

For more than 50 years, the charismatic restaurateur has been in business. His one day off? Christmas.
By ROBERT SIMONSON

Italy Is in a Hazelnut Cream-Filled Civil War

With Italians’ appetite for snack food growing, Barilla and Ferrero are in a pitched battle to make sure their cookies come out on top.
By JASON HOROWITZ and ANNA MOMIGLIANO

A GOOD APPETITE

Four Breakfasts as Festive as the Season

A showstopping Dutch baby, warming baked oatmeal, cozy baked eggs, and a classic broiled grapefruit — all are as easy as they are warming.
By MELISSA CLARK

How to Eat Dinner Like the Last Citizens of Pompeii

The chef Heston Blumenthal’s latest exploration of historical appetites is a menu inspired by the final meals prepared in the doomed Roman city.
By MEARA SHARMA

An Unforgettable Holiday Centerpiece

An end-of-year extravagance, Gabrielle Hamilton’s whole roast suckling pig is an easily prepared, visually stunning project.
By SAM SIFTON

The Chicken to Crave

Feeling a little spent? Let Alison Roman’s skillet chicken with white beans, a one-pan shrimp scampi, and a lemony carrot soup power you through the holidays.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Greek Wines Get Back to Their Roots

Winemakers across the country are recognizing native grapes like assyrtiko, xinomavro, debina and malagousia.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Food! Glorious Food!

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

8 Ways Restaurants Have Changed in the Past Decade

Our chief restaurant critic tries to make sense of the past 10 years in American dining, with a little help from Twitter.
1. We ate with our cameras.
2. All our plates became small plates.
3. The vegans got their revenge.
4. Developers caught food-hall fever.
5. Many people of color who cook had a breakout decade.
6. Ethical treatment wasn’t just for farm animals.
7. The future looked grim.
8. And yet, everybody agreed that there are good restaurants almost everywhere.
By PETE WELLS

TRILOBITES

What a 5,700-Year-Old Wad of Chewed Gum Reveals About Ancient People and Their Bacteria

Scientists dig into the diet, health and history of Danish hunter-gatherers in a new study.
By KNVUL SHEIKH

TALK

She Changed the Way We Eat. She Wants to Fix Our Democracy, Too.

Frances Moore Lappé popularized the idea that plant-based diets were good for the planet. But her focus has been on politics all along.
By DAVID MARCHESE

BANGKOK DISPATCH

In Bangkok’s Fragrant Street Food, City Planners See a Mess to Clean

City planners prefer a more manicured Bangkok, with air-conditioning, malls and Instagrammable dessert cafes — and without the mess and noise of street vendors.
By HANNAH BEECH

Senate Confirms Stephen Hahn to Head F.D.A.

The Food and Drug Administration has been without a permanent commissioner since April, when Dr. Scott Gottlieb resigned.
By SHEILA KAPLAN

THE T LIST

The T List: What to Try, Read and Know About This Week

Glittery eyes, a classic Nan Goldin book and more ideas from the editors of T Magazine.

Hard Times for a Hot Commodity, the Prized New Mexico Chile

Years of drought, erratic weather and other stresses are taking their toll on the peppers that are central to the state’s economy and identity.


In fields around Hatch, N.M., workers pick chile by hand, careful not to bruise the state’s prized crop. But the peppers are in trouble.
By Amelia Nierenberg

RESTAURANTS

What Happens When a Fitness Chain Opens a Restaurant?

Slideshow

Electric Lemon, in the Equinox Hotel at Hudson Yards, answers the question with vibrant flavors and a “feel the burn” playlist.
By PETE WELLS

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2019

From articles on climate change to a review of a Brooklyn institution, the most popular stories this year were ones that prompted reader discussion.

12. How Do the New Plant-Based Burgers Stack Up? We Taste-Tested Them

11. Alison Roman Cooks Thanksgiving in a (Very) Small Kitchen

10. Your Questions About Food and Climate Change, Answered

9. You Don’t Need a Recipe

8. The Vegetarians Who Turned Into Butchers

7. Weeknight Dinner Around the World

6. How to Boil the Perfect Egg

5. The Aperol Spritz Is Not a Good Drink

4. The Secret Ingredient That Improves Meat Every Time

3. Mario Batali Exits His Restaurants

2. Popeyes Sandwich Strikes a Chord for African-Americans

1. Peter Luger Used to Sizzle. Now It Sputters.

The Best Biscuits? There Are a Few Tricks


J. Kenji López-Alt swaps ingredients, and grates and rolls his way to biscuits that are simultaneously crisp, flaky, soft and light.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

EAT

How to Cook a Pig


There is no other dish on the traditional holiday table that you can cook so beautifully this easily.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

FRONT BURNER

Hummus, the Book

This coffee-table tome on hummus follows the dish throughout the Middle East.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Gift a Brick of Caviar

Pressed into a block, this new caviar product can be grated to add rich flavor to eggs, warm toast and pasta.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

ONE GOOD MEAL

How to Cook Brisket Like a ‘Jewish Grandma Fashion Designer’


At Batsheva Hay’s Upper West Side apartment, Fridays are dedicated to serving this simple stovetop supper.
By NICK MARINO

Easy Upgrades

These recipes — for salmon, chicken, noodles and pork chops — all have a genius little twist.

1. Salmon With Anchovy-Garlic Butter

2. Crispy Pork Chops With Buttered Radishes

3. Umami Garlic Noodles With Mustard Greens

4. Chicken Caprese

5. Savory Dutch Baby

By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A Seafood Pie for the Feast


Cooked under buttery puff pastry, seafood mingles in a velvety sauce for a fish pie that doubles as a stunning holiday centerpiece for Christmas Eve.
By Melissa Clark

Desserts That Bring the Party, but Not the Fuss

Salted Chocolate Pudding With Whipped Sour Cream

Golden Ginger Cake

Boozy Cherry Walnut Tart

Citrusy Cheesecake


After a giant ham, Alison Roman wants something sweet, celebratory and a little grand — but not too difficult to make, either.
By ALISON ROMAN

A Festive Cake With a Big Reveal

Beautiful and bright, Yotam Ottolenghi’s warm upside-down lemon cake gives you that ta-da moment for the holidays.


Yotam Ottolenghi’s warm upside-down lemon sponge cake with lemon-maple butter.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Cunningham

NYT Critic’s Pick PG Documentary, Biography, Music Directed by Alla Kovgan
Alla Kovgan’s documentary about the great Merce Cunningham shows aspects of his choreography that can be difficult to convey on conventional film.
By BRIAN SEIBERT

— Of Possible Interest —

Jumanji: The Next Level

PG-13 Action, Adventure, Comedy, Fantasy Directed by Jake Kasdan
Dwayne Johnson, Kevin Hart, Jack Black and Karen Gillan return for this sequel, and they’ve got Danny DeVito and Danny Glover in tow.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

On the Menu in Moscow, Soviet-Era Nostalgia

Themed eateries in the Russian capital cater to a taste for the past, recalling Black Sea vacations, Space Race euphoria and the days of service without a smile.
By ANASTASIA MIARI

America’s Dairy Farmers Are Hurting. A Giant Merger Could Make Things Worse.

The largest dairy co-op in the United States is in talks to acquire Dean Foods, a milk processing company that sought bankruptcy protection last month.
By DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY

DEADLY GERMS, LOST CURES

Denmark Raises Antibiotic-Free Pigs. Why Can’t the U.S.?

American pigs are raised on a liberal diet of antibiotics, fueling the rise of resistant germs. Danish pork producers are proving there’s a better way.
By ANDREW JACOBS

TRAVEL TIPS

How to Have a 5-Star Hotel Experience in Paris Without Booking a Room

Aimez-vous le luxe?
By AMY TARA KOCH

EAT

The Key to a Perfect Italian-American Sauce

Pickled peppers elevate a pan sauce that you can use on veal, on pork, on beef, on chicken.


Veal chops in cherry pepper sauce.
By SAM SIFTON

NONFICTION

Writing, and Cooking, Across Borders

In “Of Morsels and Marvels,” the Guadeloupean novelist Maryse Condé writes about the links between her culinary and literary passions.
By CHARLOTTE DRUCKMAN

FRONT BURNER

A New Turkey for the Season

D’Artagnan now sells a free-range turkey raised on scrap vegetables.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Say ‘Seasons Greetings’ With Chocolate


Sweeter Cards offer a thoughtful card with a little something extra — a full-size chocolate bar.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

Call It a Crime of Pasta

The famous pasta-making women of Bari, Italy, are worried that a crackdown on contraband orecchiette pasta could threaten their way of life.


Angela Lastella placing her home-made orecchiette outside her home in Bari, Italy.
By JASON HOROWITZ

Cheesy and Spicy

Saucy and extremely fast, the YouTube celebrity Maangchi’s cheese buldak (fire chicken) needs no introduction: Its cheese pull speaks for itself.


By EMILY WEINSTEIN

13 Next-Level Kitchen Gifts

By Becky Krystal

Take the sweetest trip around the country with these 14 American regional cookie recipes

By Becky Krystal

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Portrait of a Lady on Fire

NYT Critic’s Pick R Drama, Romance Directed by Céline Sciamma
In Céline Sciamma’s new film, Adèle Haenel and Noémie Merlant play an aristocrat and an artist falling in love in 18th-century France.
By A.O. SCOTT

The Aeronauts

NYT Critic’s Pick PG-13Action, Adventure, Biography, Drama, Romance Directed by Tom Harper
Felicity Jones and Eddie Redmayne reach for the skies in this charming Victorian ballooning adventure.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

In Fabric

NYT Critic’s Pick R Comedy, Horror Directed by Peter Strickland
Peter Strickland’s fourth feature is a horror story about, yes, a garment, but it’s his most engrossing work yet.
By GLENN KENNY

Midnight Family

NYT Critic’s Pick Documentary, Action, Crime, Drama Directed by Luke Lorentzen
In this outstanding documentary, a family of emergency medical workers struggles both to save lives and to make a living.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Little Joe

Drama, Sci-Fi Directed by Jessica Hausner
Jessica Hausner’s new sci-fi film about a flower engineered to release a potent antidepressant evokes “Invasion of the Body Snatchers.”
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Fire Blight Spreads Northward, Threatening Apple Orchards

Growers in northern states are combating virulent outbreaks of a disease as seasons grow warmer, orchards have been reconfigured for higher yields and new varieties may be more vulnerable
By JIM ROBBINS

CHOICE TABLES

Paris Might Be the Best City for Italian Food (Outside Italy)

From experimental aperitivo bars to pizza labs to Michelin-starred bistros, cool Italian establishments are filling the French capital, and Parisians are flocking to them.
By SETH SHERWOOD

The French Fries Are Doing Just Fine

After a weak harvest for many potato farmers in the United States and Canada, there were concerns about shortages of the fast food staple. But supplies aren’t likely to run out anytime soon.
By JACEY FORTIN

F.D.A. Nominee Clears Senate Panel

As a teen vaping and health crisis dominates public concerns, the Food and Drug Administration has been without a permanent commissioner since April.
By SHEILA KAPLAN

Eating My Way Through Vietnam’s Most Livable City

Facing rain, the 52 Places Traveler skips Danang’s famous beaches in favor of street food and the buzz of a rapidly growing city.


Danang is famous for seafood, served fresh in large open-air restaurants steps from the beach.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

These Are the Best Baking Cookbooks of 2019


A mix of sophisticated flavors and exacting techniques sets these six dessert-focused books apart.
By Melissa Clark

12 Stunning Cookies That Will Impress Everyone You Know

Recipes and Styling by SUSAN SPUNGEN

EAT

How to Bake the Perfect Madeleine


Good is too easy. These toasty Earl Grey-flavored teacakes are an astounding delight.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

FRONT BURNER

The Snack You Need in Your Life

Flock Rotisserie Chicken Chips come in three flavors and are hard to resist.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Chocolate Heels and Other Confections

To celebrate a new chocolate factory, Cipriani has opened a temporary shop with fashion-forward edible gifts.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Fanciful Mochi With a French Twist


Michael Laiskonis, the former Le Bernardin pastry chef, has come up with some new flavors for Mochidoki.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

In Bowling Green, an Alsatian Holiday Market

The Alsatian tourist board is setting up a Christmas market for several weeks in December.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

A Meal Caught in Time

At Harvard’s Peabody Museum, a new exhibition explores American social history through food.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

Permission Granted!


Take a break from cooking, and make yourself a party board.
By SAM SIFTON

These Cocktails Are Garbage. Yum!

Fancy alcoholic drinks made with food scraps are Trash Tiki’s way of pushing a more sustainable bar scene.
By RINA RAPHAEL

In the New World of Whiskeys, Australia Strives to Stand Out

While distillers around the globe imitate Scotch, Australians are innovating to create something distinctive.


Carlie Dyer, a distiller at the Starward Distillery in Melbourne, examining one of the company’s whiskeys.
By Clay Risen

Gary Regan, Maestro of Mixology and Cocktail Culture, Dies at 68


A British-born son of publicans, he became a bartender in New York, a saloonkeeper, an author of 18 books and a columnist and commentator.
By SAM ROBERTS

André Daguin Dies at 84; Chef Made Gascony (and a Dish) Famous


His menu, most notably the grilled duck breast, made a region of southwest France a required stop for traveling food lovers.
By WILLIAM GRIMES