Monthly Archives: August 2021

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Candyman
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Horror, Thriller | Directed by Nia DaCosta
The new take on the 1990s cult horror film returns the story to its old stomping ground, this time with Jordan Peele as a producer.


Yahya Abdul-Mateen II in Nia DaCosta’s “Candyman.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Mosquito State
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, Horror, Thriller | Directed by Filip Jan Rymsza
A Wall Street genius becomes the willing host to a colony of mosquitoes in this dreamily surreal horror movie.


Beau Knapp in “Mosquito State.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Isabella
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Matías Piñeiro
The Argentine filmmaker Matías Piñeiro, who riffs on Shakespeare, expands his ambition with this drama.


Agustina Muñoz and María Villar in “Isabella.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

— Of Possible Interest —

The Colony
R | Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Tim Fehlbaum
In this science fiction film, set generations after humans have destroyed Earth, an astronaut returns to the planet to see if it is habitable.


Nora Arnezeder in “The Colony,” directed by Tim Fehlbaum.
By LENA WILSON

Food! Glorious Food!

THE SATURDAY PROFILE
‘Super Taster’ Who Lost Sense of Smell Is Helping Italians Regain It
A celebrated epicure in Italy was devastated when Covid-19 first stole, then warped his sense of taste. Through training, Michele Crippa has recaptured some of it and is now on a quest to aid others.
By EMMA BUBOLA

THE WELL NEWSLETTER
The Dos and Don’ts of Fermented Foods
Is all yogurt created equal? Does it matter if the kimchi is spicy? And what if my kombucha has sugar? Your questions answered.
By TARA PARKER-POPE

Sea Scallops Farmed in Maine Aren’t Just Sustainable. They’re Helping Their Habitat.
There are only a handful of these farms in the United States, most run by fishing families in Maine. But their number is growing.
By MELISSA CLARK

Some Assembly Required
An expertly curated platter makes for ideal late-summer eating.
By TEJAL RAO

This Fish Is Sustainable, Cheap and Delicious on the Grill
Porgies deserve more attention. Chefs love them and you will, too.

At Shuka in SoHo, porgy is offered grilled whole and stuffed with lemon and herbs.
At Shuka in SoHo, porgy is offered grilled whole and stuffed with lemon and herbs.
By Florence Fabricant

EAT
My Auntie Taught Me the Secret to a Perfect Breakfast: Improvise
Upma is a simple, delicious South Indian breakfast dish that you can make differently every time.


By TEJAL RAO

These Tricks.
Treat the fruit like a cucumber (they’re related), and add it to a Greek salad or turn it into a soup, to name just a few ideas.


By Florence Fabricant

LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION
Raw Onions Are the Best Food. Let Me Explain.
There’s no greater pleasure than biting into a slice of a raw red onion and tasting its stinging sharpness.
By IVA DIXIT

Get That Corn
Eat it in a salad with halloumi, over fish or tofu, in a pasta, or on its own with tartar butter.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN
By Emily Weinstein

A Delicate Dessert That Puts the Whole Lemon to Use
These lemon-labneh possets make the most of peels, egg whites and any extra yogurt you may have on hand, Yotam Ottolenghi writes.

These lemon-labneh possets are finished with meringue shards and a burnt lemon powder.
These lemon-labneh possets are finished with meringue shards and a burnt lemon powder.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

How to Make Dinner Without Cooking Anything
Follow a simple formula for colorful, satisfying dishes that don’t require turning on the oven or stove.


Prepared proteins, such as rotisserie chicken, help hearty salads come together quickly.
By ALI SLAGLE

Tomato

Lemonade

Angel Cake

Gattafin

20 Wines Under $20: For When the Weather Is Sultry
The needs are different when it’s hot and sticky: Lighter-bodied wines, more whites and rosés than reds, refreshment rather than solidity.


By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

In the Same Breath
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Nanfu Wang
In her latest documentary, the director of “One Child Nation” revisits the pandemic as it unfolded in China as well as in the United States.


A scene from the documentary “In the Same Breath.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

The Night House
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Horror, Thriller | Directed by David Bruckner
A sensational Rebecca Hall plays a grieving widow besieged by potentially occult forces in this superior creepout.


Rebecca Hall in “The Night House.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

On Broadway
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, History | Directed by Oren Jacoby
The neon lights are bright, and so is the spirit of this brief but loving history of Broadway.


Ian McKellen is one of the interview subjects of the documentary “On Broadway.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

— Of Possible Interest —

Cryptozoo
Animation | Directed by Dash Shaw
This animated film is a rapturously hallucinogenic daydream for mature audiences.


A scene from the animated film “Cryptozoo.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZAH

Food! Glorious Food!

Biden Administration Prompts Largest Permanent Increase in Food Stamps
The jump in benefits, the biggest in the program’s history, comes after a revision of the initiative’s nutrition standards that supporters say will reduce hunger and better reflect how Americans eat.
By JASON DEPARLE

What We Think We Know About Metabolism May Be Wrong
A new study challenges assumptions about energy expenditure by people, including the idea that metabolism slows at middle age.
By GINA KOLATA

TRILOBITES
How Peppers Proliferated Around the Planet
In the world’s plant gene banks, scientists studied how so many varieties of the humble capsicum worked their way onto our plates.


Threading red peppers to make paprika in Serbia. The plant, Capsicum annuum, is the most widely consumed species of pepper, and its varieties include bell peppers, chiles, jalapeños and cayenne.
By VERONIQUE GREENWOOD

Record Salmon in One Place. Barely Any in Another. Alarm All Around.
Historically low runs on the Yukon River have devastating impacts for Alaskans relying on the fish for sustenance and tradition, but Bristol Bay is seeing more sockeye than ever before.
By Victoria Petersen

A GOOD APPETITE
Celebrating Peak Summer
A quick weeknight sauté of ripe corn, tomatoes and seared halloumi is exactly what we love about summer.

Savory halloumi complements the bright flavors of ripe tomatoes and sweet corn in this easy weeknight meal.
Savory halloumi complements the bright flavors of ripe tomatoes and sweet corn in this easy weeknight meal.
By Melissa Clark

For a Better Pizza, Light Up the Grill
J. Kenji López-Alt makes the case for grilled pizza, one of the easiest ways (really!) to get restaurant-quality pizza at home.


Why grilled pizza? It all has to do with high heat and speed.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

TIMES INSIDER
Cooking With a Dash of Science
For the Times food columnist J. Kenji López-Alt, the kitchen is also a lab, where an understanding of a few basics at the molecular level can make a difference in your next dish.
By KATIE VAN SYCKLE

Chilled Dinners for Crazy-Hot Days
Silken tofu with tomatoes and peaches, caprese salad and more satisfying meals for the tail end of summer.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

EAT
The Best Coffee Break Is an Affogato
Made with cold gelato and warm espresso, this treat merges two sublime pleasures in one glass.


By ERIC KIM

How to Stretch Saffron, Without Sacrificing Flavor
Nothing compares to saffron’s unique fragrance and flavor. With this time-honored method, the world’s priciest spice can play a role in daily cooking.

Harvesting saffron, which is derived from the stigma of the crocus flower, is extremely laborious.
Harvesting saffron, which is derived from the stigma of the crocus flower, is extremely laborious.
By Naz Deravian

EAT
Cooking Without an Oven, the Southern Italian Way
Drying zucchini outdoors is ideal, but this agrodolce can be made even without a Mediterranean balcony.


By Gabrielle Hamilton

THE POUR
A Tale of Two Vineyards
Two sites near Paso Robles farm conscientiously, and both make excellent wines. But in the climate change era, one gets enough rain, the other doesn’t.
AmByth Estate, near Paso Robles, does not irrigate. The owners hope it has enough ground water to get through the growing season.
By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

The Lost Leonardo
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Documentary | Directed by Andreas Koefoed
This documentary about the painting “Salvator Mundi” packs the fascination and wallop of an expertly executed fictional thriller.


Robert Simon, left, and Alexander Parish in the documentary “The Lost Leonardo.”
By GLENN KENNY

Days
NYT Critic’s Pick | Unrated | Drama | Directed by Ming-liang Tsai
Tsai Ming-liang’s latest film has little dialogue and no subtitles, but has plenty of story to tell.


Lee Kang-sheng, left, and Anong Houngheuangsy in “Days,” by Tsai Ming-liang.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Why Do American Grocery Stores Still Have an Ethnic Aisle?
This international hodgepodge strikes many shoppers and food purveyors as antiquated. But doing away with it isn’t as easy as it might sound.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

The Endless Pleasures of Vegetarian Cooking
The world of vegetarian cooking is vast and diverse, and our new newsletter celebrates exactly that.


When Tejal Rao cooks vegetarian food at home, it can look like a big pile of lettuce leaves filled with sweet and spicy tofu larb.
By TEJAL RAO

13 Vegetarian Recipes That Give Pasta and Beans a Break
Cooking ruts are real. Get out of them with these fresh, vegetable-forward dishes.


Grilled mushroom skewers from Jocelyn Ramirez
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

The Joy of Plantains
The versatile fruit is as delicious in a skillet with tomatoes and eggs as it is alone, so why not make both?
By SAM SIFTON

The Gloriously Versatile Plantain
Every starch has its secrets. Here’s what makes plantains so exceptional.

Once you know how to harness plantains’ charms, you can use them in all manner of applications.
Once you know how to harness plantains’ charms, you can use them in all manner of applications.
By Yewande Komolafe

Tomato Time!
Whether you toss them with chickpeas, feta and a beautifully crunchy topping, or grate them for paneer con tomate, these recipes will put them to good use.
By TEJAL RAO

13 Grilled Chicken Recipes That Aren’t Boring or Dry
It’s easy to overdo chicken on the grill, but these recipes promise tender, flavorful results.


Alana Kysar’s huli huli chicken.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

EAT
These Strawberry Mini-Cakes Are Perfect Party Food
A first birthday calls for these small tender confections, just right for chubby baby hands.


By DORIE GREENSPAN

A GOOD APPETITE
A Remarkable Almond Cake Made Even Better
Whipping up your own almond paste adds just a few minutes, but smartly innovates on a classic recipe.

This almond cake walks the line between dense and light, with a plush crumb and heady marzipan flavor.
This almond cake walks the line between dense and light, with a plush crumb and heady marzipan flavor.
By Melissa Clark

Cherry Jelly

Way! Way! Way Over the Top Fish and Chips

Four Simple Pasta Sauces

Pasta Grannies

The Man in the Green Hat

FRONT BURNER
Champagne Wishes and Climate Change Dreams
A new documentary on Champagne explores its roots in France, but also how sparkling wines have flourished across the English Channel thanks to global warming.


Domaine Evremond Vineyard in Kent, England, makes sparkling wines.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

WINE SCHOOL
A Rosé by Any Other Color
By Eric Asimov

Nach Waxman, Founder of a Bookstore Where Foodies Flock, Dies at 84
A “kitchen anthropologist,” he created a mecca in Manhattan for chefs, writers, scholars, everyday cooks and anyone else who is, well, hungry for culinary knowledge.


Nach Waxman in 2018 at his Manhattan bookstore, Kitchen Arts & Letters, which he called “a repository of books that are not only what you can’t get elsewhere, but beyond what you knew existed.”
By SAM ROBERTS

Three Headdesk Moments

1. While at the Sioux Chef’s new restaurant — after we found it — and had ordered our bottle of wine, the waitress held up the bottle and explained that it was from an Indigenous Winemaker in California. “Uhm,” I said, “before you go any further, our side of the bottle says, New Zealand.”

2.After having my BP checked at the doctor’s office, I asked if I could calibrate my BP monitor. “We don’t do that.” the nurse replied. “Well,” I said, “The nurse practitioner said you did.”

3. I got out the BP monitor device and asked the nurse, “What’s the millimeter’s of mercury number?” “I don’t know,” she said.

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Bring Your Own Brigade
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | DocumentaryDirected by Lucy Walker
In her new documentary, Lucy Walker looks at California’s apocalyptic fires and finds more than the usual smoke and politics.


A scene from Lucy Walker’s documentary, “Bring Your Own Brigade.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

The Macaluso Sisters
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Emma Dante
This moving drama by the filmmaker Emma Dante imagines the ripple effects of a sister’s death across generations in Sicily.


Left to right, Viola Pusateri, Eleonora De Luca, Anita Pomario, Alissa Maria Orlando and Susanna Piraino in “The Macaluso Sisters.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Annette
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama, Musical, Romance | Directed by Leos Carax
Adam Driver and Marion Cotillard are star-crossed lovers in this hallucinatory musical, written by Sparks and directed by Leos Carax.


In “Annette,” Adam Driver and Marion Cotillard play a performance artist and an opera singer in and out of love.
By A.O. SCOTT

The Last Matinee
NYT Critic’s Pick | Horror | Directed by Maximiliano Contenti
Set in a movie theater, this droll splatterfest is aimed straight at the jugular.


Julieta Spinelli in “The Last Matinee.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Bix: ‘Ain’t None of Them Play Like Him Yet’
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, Biography, Music | Directed by Brigitte Berman
The composer and cornet player Bix Beiderbecke changed music forever in a very short life. A restored documentary from the ’80s goes into the details.


ix Beiderbecke, center with cornet, in “Bix: ‘Ain’t None of Them Play Like Him Yet,’” a documentary directed by Brigitte Berman.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

Vivo
PGAnimation, Adventure, Comedy, Family, Musical | Directed by Kirk DeMicco, Brandon Jeffords
The animated musical, about a kinkajou who goes on a journey to deliver a song, may have an uneven story, but the movie’s stellar songs, by Lin-Manuel Miranda, reflect the artist at his best.


From left, Gabi (voiced by Ynairaly Simo) and Vivo (voiced by Lin-Manuel Miranda) in “Vivo.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

Naked Singularity
RComedy, Crime, Drama | Directed by Chase Palmer
John Boyega plays a harried public defender in this chaotic merger of sci-fi and heist thriller.


John Boyega in “Naked Singularity.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

The Suicide Squad
RAction, Adventure, Comedy, Sci-Fi | Directed by James Gunn
The director James Gunn (“Guardians of the Galaxy”) shifts from Marvel to DC Comics with some familiar faces and the usual moves.


From left, David Dastmalchian, John Cena, Idris Elba and Daniela Melchior in “The Suicide Squad,” the latest entry in the DC Comics franchise, directed by James Gunn.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Food! Glorious Food!

With Chop Suey and Loyal Fans, a Montana Kitchen Keeps the Flame Burning
Pekin Noodle Parlor, one of the nation’s oldest Chinese restaurants, says goodbye to its longtime owner but holds tight to its colorful past and city.


By Brett Anderson Photographs by Louise Johns

Camarones Embarazados, the Grilled Shrimp Recipe That Brings the Beach to You
With their cheeky name and rich adobo, these skewered “pregnant shrimp” rule the beaches of Puerto Vallarta and are perfect for grilling at home.


Camarones embarazados translates to pregnant shrimp in Spanish, but it’s a play on words.
By Pati Jinich

This Shrimp Recipe Will Bring You Joy
Millie Peartree’s sheet-pan shrimp boil is as festive as it is delicious.
By Emily Weinstein

THE POUR
California Wine Country Rebuilds as Threats Persist
The drought in Northern California is severe, and the risk of fires remains high. But winemakers are trying to adapt to climate change.


Andrew Holve, the head of winemaking at Newton Vineyards in Napa Valley, examining dead vines in a vineyard block lost to the 2020 fires.
By Eric Asimov

Who Knew?

The baby yard bunny and the backyard squirrel were frolicking in the backyard, and the bunny hopped down off the stairs to eat some weeds. Yay! Bunny.

So the squirrel hops up on the stairs and starts chomping on the cucumber vine and eats a baby cucumber. Then starts eating petunia flowers. Bastard!