Rome Gets Its First Pizza Vending Machine. Will Romans Bite?
In a city with no shortage of pizza — or self-appointed food critics — an entrepreneur is betting on diners with a sense of adventure.
By ELISABETTA POVOLEDO

Don’t Eat Cicadas if You’re Allergic to Seafood, F.D.A. Warns
The insects have emerged by the billions this year across the Eastern United States and have curious foodies salivating. But their similarities to crustaceans makes them an allergy risk, health officials warned.
By DERRICK BRYSON TAYLOR

Summer’s Greatest Prize: Watermelons, With Seeds, Please
For many Americans, juicy, scarlet watermelon is a must for Juneteenth. The heirloom varieties are a sacred summer fruit.
By NICOLE TAYLOR

IN THE GARDEN
If You’ve Never Tried Growing Radicchio, Now Is the Time
This cultivated form of chicory is having a moment. Here’s what you need to know before you plant it.

When most people picture radicchio, they think of the kind that comes in a bagged baby-salad mix. But there are a dizzing variety of radicchios, including (top row, from left) Rosso di Treviso Tardivo, Variegato di Lusia and Variegato di Castelfranco; (middle, from left) Rosso di Chioggia and Rosso di Verona (a large and small example); and (bottom, from left) Rosa del Veneto (two examples) and Rosso di Treviso Precoce. (Puntarelle, bottom right, is not a radicchio, but a cousin among the cultivated chicories.)
By MARGARET ROACH

FRONT BURNER
Saffron Harvested by Female Farmers
Moonflowers is a new company that employs women in the Heart region of Afghanistan.

Moonflowers, $12.99 for .07 ounces (a generous tablespoon) to $53.99 for .35 ounces, moonflowers.co.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

This Pasta Is Inspired
Eric Kim’s asparagus pasta is run through with a subtle seaweed flavor, and finished with an irresistible onion-cream sauce.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Three Ways to a Better Chicken Breast
Unlock juicier, more flavorful white meat with these smart techniques.

You can enjoy these dry-brined chicken breasts right out of the skillet with a spritz of lime juice, or save them to serve in salads, sandwiches, fried rice and the like.
By Eric Kim

Adobo

Pasta Grannies

Potstickers

Shrooms — Lots of ’em and a few great recipes:

Phouket

A GOOD APPETITE
For Lemon Curd in Less Than 10 Minutes, Use Your Microwave
Lemon-lovers, beware: You may not be able to stop making this super simple dessert.

Perfect this recipe, then change up the flavors, swapping in lime or grapefruit.
By Melissa Clark

THE POUR
This Summer, Make It Chianti Classico
Even in warmer weather, some occasions cry out for a red. This Tuscan wine is a gorgeous expression of sangiovese, with many excellent producers.

By ERIC ASIMOV

FRONT BURNER
For an Extra Special Celebration
Louis Roederer has released its top-tier Champagne, the 2013 Cristal vintage.

Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal 2013, $219 (preorder), Crush Wine & Spirits, crushwineco.com; $269, Morrell & Co., morrellwine.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Voices Across America
Opinion: Those $300 pandemic checks aren’t the only reason restaurant employees might not want to go back to work
Opinion by Micheline Maynard

TRILOBITES
Where Your Watermelon Came From
A genetic analysis of a melon found in Sudan may point to the wild fruit that gave rise to one of summertime’s sweetest treats.
By VERONIQUE GREENWOOD

OPINION
GUEST ESSAY
Americans Don’t Want to Return to Lousy Low Wage Jobs
By Daniel Alpert

Upended by the Pandemic, Haute Chefs Move Into Hotels
Hotels not necessarily known for fine dining are drawing award-winning chefs seeking opportunities for reinvention.
By SHEILA MARIKAR

The Forgotten Queer Legacy of Billy West and Zuni Café
The restaurant is a culinary landmark in San Francisco, but its history as a space for gay visibility is little known.
By John Birdsall

Still Here and Still Queer: The Gay Restaurant Endures
Many have closed in a time of growing inclusion and more fluid sexual identities. But in several places around the country, they remain anchors of safety and community.
By Erik Piepenburg

Why ‘Kim’s Convenience’ Is ‘Quietly Revolutionary’
In not explaining every detail of Korean food culture, the award-winning Canadian sitcom speaks volumes.
By Priya Krishna

A Black Whiskey Entrepreneur Will Help Bankroll Others Like Her
Fawn Weaver, the founder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, has amassed a $50 million venture capital fund to seed minority-owned spirits businesses.
By Elizabeth G. Dunn

A GOOD APPETITE
Move Over, Ricotta. This Pasta Gets Its Creaminess From Cottage Cheese.
A summery riff on a childhood favorite, this one-bowl dish with currants, tomatoes and mint is sweet, savory and very quick.

This pasta is a riff on an Eastern European dish of homemade egg noodles tossed with butter or sour cream and a curdy white cheese.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
A Coconut Cake for the Ages
This gâteau d’Hélène recipe from the 1970s is just as elegant and delicious today as it was decades ago.

By DORIE GREENSPAN

FRONT BURNER
Toni Tipton-Martin to Receive Julia Child Award
The cookbook author will use the $50,000 award to mentor a new generation of food writers.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Cocktail Shaker Made from American Stainless Steel
This Boston cocktail shaker, made in the U.S., is the first product from a new barware company, C&D Tools.

C&D Tools, Boston Shaker, $135, cdtoolsusa.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Inverness Is Closer Than You Think
Cowgirl Creamery’s Inverness is buttery, with a subtle tang. And it’s now available nationwide.

Escape to Inverness, three cheeses plus flatbread crackers, roasted curried cashews and chocolate-covered candied honeycomb, $80 (including overnight shipping), cowgirlcreamery.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Brush Up on Your Canning Skills
A series of webinars from Penn State Extension covers the basics of food preservation.
Preservation webinars, extension.psu.edu/preservation-webinars.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Master the Art of the Toast
A new book gives readers a look at how people raise their glasses around the world.

“Cheers! Around the World in 80 Toasts” by Brandon Cook (Red Lightning Books, $29).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Get slushed! 10 delicious frozen cocktail recipes
Celebrate the first signs of summer with these ice-cold concoctions – from watermelon margaritas to frosé

Stuart Heritage

Enjoy 8 Classic Summer Drinks, With a Twist
You can’t go wrong with a gin and tonic or a caipirinha. But many summer cocktails could stand a spark of whimsy without compromising their honest appeal.

From left, Blushing Bellini, Melon Agua Fresca, Spanish Gin and Tonic, Rosé Sangria, Freshened Paloma, Ruby Spritzer, Strawberry Lemonade, Devon Yacht Club Southside.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

TikTok, the Fastest Way on Earth to Become a Food Star
The app offers explosive growth for content creators. Gen Z cooks are taking advantage.
By TAYLOR LORENZ

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
The Perilous Hunt for Coconut Crabs on a Remote Polynesian Island
On Makatea, an uplifted coral atoll marred by decades of mining, searching for crabs often requires gambling with the treacherous terrain.
By ERIC GUTH and JENNIFER KINGSLEY

ESSAY
The Profound Significance of ‘High on the Hog’
A new limited series on Netflix is a nuanced celebration of African Americans and their food. It is also sorely overdue.

Stephen Satterfield, the host of “High on the Hog,” standing at the Gate of No Return in Ouidah, Benin, where enslaved people were forced onto boats for the trans-Atlantic journey. The series begins in Benin, with Mr. Satterfield exploring the roots of Black American food.
By Osayi Endolyn

The Making of ‘High on the Hog,’ Bringing Black Food History to TV
The new Netflix series tapped years of scholarship and the life experience of its creators to chart how African Americans have shaped the country’s cuisine.

“High on the Hog” begins each episode with a montage that includes the Geechee Gullah Ring Shouters, performing at the ruins of St. Helena Island’s Chapel of Ease, in South Carolina.
By Kim Severson

OWNING THE FUTURE
How Food Trucks Endured and Succeeded During the Pandemic
Embracing technology, scaling down costs and general flexibility have helped them through a difficult time.
By KERRY HANNON

Know Your Onions (and Shallots and Leeks and Ramps)
Ever wonder about the difference between a spring onion and a scallion? A ramp and a scape? Melissa Clark has a crash course for you.

By MELISSA CLARK

A GOOD APPETITE
Succulent Sausage, and a Standout Couscous Salad
Crisp, brawny merguez runs through this summery, vegetable-packed grain dish.

Grilled merguez and onions with mint-lemon couscous.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
The 100-Pound Fruit That Vegans Love
The jackfruit is perfect for a meatless meal, especially like this spicy and tangy sabzi from West Bengal.

By TEJAL RAO

For Better Bakes, Perfect This Versatile Dough
At home in sweet and savory buns alike, enriched dough is a baking utility player. Let Claire Saffitz lead you to flawless results every time.

An enriched dough can be used in loaves, hamburger buns and morning buns.
By Claire Saffitz

Pizza! Pizza! Pizza! https://www.youtube.com/embed/h6XvMKdD2tY

Our Dream Summer Dishes
All of the cold-creamy-crunchy-salty-delicious things our Food reporters and editors can’t wait to eat and drink.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES FOOD DESK

18 Condiments Our Food Staff Would Lick Off a Spoon
The sauces, spices and pastes that bolster our everyday meals can be windows to the soul.
By ERIC KIM

Pandemic Relief That’s Here to Stay: The To-Go Cocktail
Many states relaxed restrictions on the sale of mixed drinks in order to help struggling businesses. Some of those changes are now being made permanent.
By HEATHER MURPHY

THE POUR
When a Summer Day Calls for a Beer
As outdoor life returns, the warm weather calls for brisk, energetic styles that specialize in cold, straightforward refreshment.
By Eric Asimov

Jim Clendenen, Santa Barbara Winemaking Pioneer, Dies at 68
With exuberant charisma and relentless traveling, he promoted his label, Au Bon Climat, and the region as a wine hub.

Jim Clendenen in 2009 at his winery, Au Bon Climat. He had a striking leonine mane of hair well after long hair had gone out of fashion and a goatee long before goatees came back in style. His wines were similarly distinctive but never trendy.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Business
As his restaurants’ customers return, a Miami chef is missing a critical ingredient: Workers
Buoyed by a huge spring break and tourist influx, South Florida restaurants are having a boom, with no hourly workers to service them.

Chef Michael Beltran, second from left, jokes with his staff before the dinner service starts picking up at Ariete in Miami on April 30. (Scott McIntyre for The Washington Post)
By Laura Reiley

Humans Have Been Sharing Food With Animals for Centuries. Why Is That?
Researchers want to learn more about the connections between humans and the feeding of birds, beasts and other fauna.
By James Gorman

The Lure of H Mart, Where the Shelves Can Seem as Wide as Asia
The huge grocery chain and other megastores like it have revolutionized the way many Asian-Americans shop and eat.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Diet Companies See Gains as Americans Try to Drop Pandemic Pounds
In recent weeks and months, as people have ventured out more often, business has jumped for companies that sell plans to help lose weight.
By JULIE CRESWELL

Michelin Announces Stars for New York Restaurants
The French producer of guides announced the awards, with a few additions and no subtractions.
By Florence Fabricant

Njahi (Kenyan Black Beans) in Coconut Sauce
Kenyan black beans are cooked until tender, then simmered in an aromatic coconut curry sauce.

Chef Michael Beltran, second from left, jokes with his staff before the dinner service starts picking up at Ariete in Miami on April 30.
By Laura Reiley

FRONT BURNER
American Fruits and Nuts in Vivid Detail
A new book looks at the U.S.D.A.’s historical watercolor record of the nation’s pomological bounty.

Mangoes from “An Illustrated Catalog of American Fruits & Nuts.”
“An Illustrated Catalog of American Fruits & Nuts: The US Department of Agriculture Pomological Watercolor Collection,” Atelier Éditions, $50.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Lighter Cast Iron Frying Pan
Vermicular’s new skillets are thinner than your average cast-iron pan, and can handle just about anything on the stove top.

Vermicular Frying Pans, $155 for the deeper 9.4 inch pan; $160 for 10.2 inch; $40 for glass cover; vermicular.us.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Ibérico Ham With Texas Twang
Raised in Hill Country, the pork from Texas Iberico relies on southwest flavors, like hickory smoke and chile.

Texas Iberico, texasiberico.com, tienda.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Our 11 Best Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipes
We’ve published many takes on the classic treat over the years, but these are the ones our readers return to again and again.

Alison Roman’s shortbread chocolate chip cookies are a perennial favorite.
By Margaux Laskey

An English Manor for a Bowl of Stew?

Pad Thai

Summer Cake

Michelin Announces Stars for New York Restaurants
The French producer of guides announced the awards, with a few additions and no subtractions.

Michelin introduced a sommelier award this year, and for New York it was given to Miguel de Leon at Pinch Chinese.
By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
Wild Alaskan King Salmon Season Has Begun
Alaskan Salmon processes the fish from the Copper River and sends the delicacy nationwide.

Kyle Lee
Alaskan Salmon will charge $75 a pound (about three portions) in five-pound boxes for $375. They also have Copper River sockeye, the vermilion variety, $250 for five pounds. Alaskan Salmon, aksalmonco.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Sour Cherry Pies Straight to Your Door
Get a taste of Petee’s Pie: The beloved shop now sells its treats frozen and ready to bake, through Goldbelly.

Blueberry pie ready to bake from Petee’s Pie Company.
Petee’s Pie Company, $15 to $40, peteespie.com; or three six-inch, $79, or one nine-inch, $65, goldbelly.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Olive Oil Conquers the Plant-Based Dessert
Wildgood, a new frozen dessert brand from a Greek ice cream specialist, is an airy confection made with extra-virgin olive oil.

Wildgood Frozen Dessert, around $6.99 a pint at Wegmans, Whole Foods, Shoprite and other stores, or nationally, $9 plus shipping from wildgood.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Spice Mill Designed by Michel Bras
Le Moulin, available this month at Williams Sonoma, offers a cook nine grind-size options.

Le Moulin, $188, williams-sonoma.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

No-Knead Bread, Revisited
In 2006, it changed the face of baking. Now, J. Kenji López-Alt takes a fresh look at Jim Lahey and Mark Bittman’s revolutionary recipe.

No-knead bread was “the recipe that democratized bread-baking,” said the cookbook author Peter Reinhart.

By J. Kenji López-Alt

EAT
The Jam-Filled Pastry of My Dreams
A serendipitous trip in the Basque Country led Dorie Greenspan to this irresistible dessert.

By DORIE GREENSPAN

You Want This Sauce
Yewande Komolafe uses guasacaca sauce, made with avocado, herbs and lime, alongside roasted carrots and chicken, but you’ll want to put it on everything.

Yewande Komolafe’s guasacaca chicken.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A GOOD APPETITE
Gnocchi, Leeks, Soupy Greens: What Else Do You Need?
Wine-braised chard and those tender potato dumplings make a one-pot meal that’s perfect for the still-chilly nights of spring.

One-pot braised chard with gnocchi, peas and leeks.
By Melissa Clark

Comfort and connection
To celebrate Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, we
asked Asian chefs and celebrities what role food plays in their lives
By Marian Liu

Roman Cheesecake

Is This the Oldest Bottle of American Whiskey? Is It Worth $40,000?
It was bottled after the Civil War, but tests show it was likely made in the late 18th century, offering a glimpse into early American distilling.

By Clay Risen

DRINK THESE
Surprise Mom With a Floral Cocktail
Flowers are magic. They are beautiful, uplifting and, when added to a drink, incredibly refreshing.

By CASSIE WINSLOW

WINE SCHOOL
Txakolina for Good Cheer, Wherever You May Be

By Eric Asimov

FRONT BURNER
A Sauvignon Blanc From Sonoma
After a small test release last year, La Crema is making a sauvignon blanc widely available just in time for summer.

La Crema Sauvignon Blanc, $25, lacrema.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Tomas Estes, Who Put Tequila on a Pedestal, Dies at 75
Starting with a popular Mexican restaurant in Amsterdam, he helped place the drink on the same shelf as fine cognac and single-malt Scotch.

Tomas Estes outside Café Pacifico in Amsterdam in 1976, the year it opened. His solution to escaping middle-class American life was to open a restaurant in Europe.
By CLAY RISEN

The Island Is Idyllic. As a Workplace, It’s Toxic.
Globe-trotting diners flock to the Willows Inn’s serene Northwest setting. But former employees say faked ingredients, sexual harassment and an abusive kitchen are the real story.
By JULIA MOSKIN

With No Frills or Celebrities, Cookpad Is a Global Go-To for Recipes
Born in Japan and a hit around the world, the recipe-sharing site has been less successful in America. Yet it has a small, fervent following among immigrants.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

Epicurious Has a Beef With Beef
The popular cooking website will not publish new beef recipes over concerns about climate change. “We think of this decision as not anti-beef but rather pro-planet,” an article said.
By DERRICK BRYSON TAYLOR and CHRISTINA MORALES

5 Takeaways From the New Food Allergy Law
Sesame becomes a “major allergen,” joining milk, eggs, fish, shellfish, tree nuts, peanuts, wheat and soybeans.
By ERIC ATHAS

A GOOD APPETITE
The Key to Easy Summer Baking Is in the Freezer Aisle
The best, most adaptable tarts start with a store-bought puff pastry, to be topped with any fruits or vegetables you like.

This savory vegetable tart works with a number of toppings.
By Melissa Clark

This Vegan Ramen Maximizes Flavor and Time
The rich, creamy broth in this tantanmen tastes like it’s been cooked much longer.

By Hetty McKinnon

FRONT BURNER
Salsa Macha Hecho en Los Angeles
The masa purveyor Masienda has released a line of three potent salsas machas.

Pura Macha salsas, $18 for nine ounces ($54 for three flavors), masienda.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
This Scoop Is Summer Ready
This cast aluminum ice cream scoop looks like a cone.

You can’t mistake this ice cream scoop.Credit…MoMA Design Store
Dip Ice Cream Scoop, $28.80 for members, $32 for nonmembers, store.moma.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Zoom Discussion of Anthony Bourdain’s Irreverent Travels
The writer’s assistant, Laurie Woolever, will discuss their travel book with The New Yorker writer Helen Rosner.

“World Travel: Revisiting Anthony Bourdain’s Favorite Places” talk, Thursday at 8 p.m., tickets, $15, or $40 including the book, “World Travel: An Irreverent Guide” by Anthony Bourdain and Laurie Woolever (Ecco, $35), mofad.org/events/2021/0429/worldtravel.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

You’re Going to Love This Pasta
Hetty McKinnon swaps spaghetti for rice in her umami-rich mushroom stir-fry.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

A Sri Lankan Chicken Curry Grounded in Memory
Creamy coconut milk and homemade spice blends run through this warming kukul mas maluwa, inspired by a grandmother’s cooking.

Make this kukul mas maluwa in advance, and you’ll find it’s even better the next day.
By SAMANTHA SENEVIRATNE

How to cook the perfect Singapore chilli crab – recipe
A sauce-splattered Singaporean signature dish that’s so good, you won’t mind the dry-cleaning bill afterwards – but what’s the definitive version?

.
Felicity Cloake’s perfect Singapore chilli crab
By Felicity Cloake

Tomato/Feta Pasta

Stuffed Pig

Dirty Mustaches with Beans

Chef Nak

Dining Out in Hennepin County Through the Decades

NOVA on Chiles (Shamelessly Stolen from Deb Geisler)

THE POUR
10 New York State Wines to Drink Now
Here are top-tier bottles from producers in the Finger Lakes and Long Island, regions that deserve more respect than they receive.

By Eric Asimov

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
On the Water in Alaska, Where Salmon Fishing Dreams Live On
Each summer, salmon begin their journey back to the rivers where they were spawned. Alaskan fishermen, along with whales, eagles and bears, share in the abundance.
By COLIN ARISMAN

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Vegan Cheese, but Make It Delicious
Cheesemakers are pushing the boundaries of cultured, plant-based milks, producing more compelling vegan cheeses than ever before.

The Barn Cat, a vegan cheese made by Stephen Babaki of Conscious Cultures Creamery, is part of a new wave of bloomy-rind vegan cheeses.
By Tejal Rao

FRONT BURNER
A New Source for Smoked Trout
Idaho rainbow trout is the latest release from Fishwife Tinned Seafood Co.

Fishwife Smoked Rainbow Trout, $23.99 for three 3.5-ounce tins, eatfishwife.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Helper for Eastern Orthodox Easter
The cookbook author Diane Kochilas now sells grape leaves from Crete for dolmas and fish.

Cretan grape leaves, 10.6-ounce jar, $16.95, shop.dianekochilas.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Flour Sack Towels With Flowery Appeal
A line of kitchen helpers, printed with photographs from Pauline Stevens and quotes from writers, arrives just in time for Mother’s Day.

Red Bird’s House Towels, $24.95; Mother’s Day set, $49.90, free shipping with the purchase of two or more, redbirdshouse.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Secret to Smooth Doughs and Fluffy Bread Is Already at Hand
Just-boiled water has long played a role in making pie crusts, milk breads and more shine, across cultures and cuisines. But how does it work?

The food personality Nadiya Hussain riffs on a classic Victorian-era hot water pastry crust for the base of her turmeric-rich samosa pie.
By RACHEL WHARTON

Another Unlikely Pandemic Shortage: Boba Tea
The popular drink’s main ingredient, tapioca pearls, could soon be in short supply because of delays in unloading cargo ships from Asia.

One boba distributor said supplies weren’t expected to return to normal until summer.
By Kellen Browning

This Vegan Ramen Maximizes Flavor and Time
The rich, creamy broth in this tantanmen tastes like it’s been cooked much longer.

By HETTY MCKINNON

These Leeks Are Anything but Humble
Yotam Ottolenghi cooks his leeks low and slow, in a bath of olive oil, until they’re magically tender and sweet.

Confit leeks with lentils, lemon and cream.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

A GOOD APPETITE
A Rhubarb Cobbler Where the Sweet-Tart Flavors Sing
Roasting sugared rhubarb until the juices condense into a tangy syrup makes for the best possible spring dessert.

This bright-tasting, flaky cobbler is gently scented with vanilla and a little orange zest.
By MELISSA CLARK

Yotam Ottolenghi’s 15-minute lunches – recipes
Two 15-minute meals that are perfect for WFH lunches: a quick-cook pasta with a zippy fusion sauce, and an all-day brunch of buttery asparagus and eggs on toast

Yotam Ottolenghi’s 15-minute miso, tomato and oregano pasta.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

Cheese

Pasta Grannies

Peas

How Do You Write an Anthony Bourdain Book Without Anthony Bourdain?
After the author and TV personality’s death, his longtime assistant was left to finish his last book, a world travel guide.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

All Day, a Miami coffee shop and restaurant, has struggled to find workers, including baristas. The business closed for all of February because of staffing shortages.
As Diners Return, Restaurants Face a New Hurdle: Finding Workers
“I normally require three years’ experience, minimum, like zero exceptions,” Ms. Ramos said. “Now I’m like, ‘You’ve been here a couple times? I’ll train you.’”
By Brett Anderson

Masks Off, Mahi Mahi On. Restaurant Workers Are in a Race for Vaccines
As states open vaccines and restaurants to all, wait staff and food service workers are often left behind. Some chefs have even opened pop-up spots to get their employees shots more quickly.
By JENNIFER STEINHAUER

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
What Is Hospitality? The Current Answer Doesn’t Work.
The host-guest relationship puts all the onus on the server, particularly during the pandemic, and points to the dysfunction at the heart of the business.

A server taking a moment away from his tables in Rome, in 2008.
By Tejal Rao

A Chef’s Quest to Preserve Cambodia’s Lost Flavors
Part historical record, part how-to for cooks, “Nhum,” a cookbook from the chef Rotanak Ros and Nataly Lee, pieces together recipes from a time before the country’s genocide.

Baked chicken with young jackfruit, a fragrant, family-style dinner that mostly comes together in one pot, is a special dish usually reserved for guests.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

Sugared and Spiced, This Creamy Porridge Comforts

A drizzle of tamarind purée lends a touch of acid to the creamy spiced porridge.
By Yewande Komolafe

A GOOD APPETITE
One Pan, 30 Minutes and a Superior Spring Salmon

Spiced salmon with sugar snap peas and red onion.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
A Classic Venetian Dish That Doesn’t Need Improvement
With some trepidation, Gabrielle Hamilton puts her own spin on risi e bisi — rice and peas.

Venetian rice and peas, with zucchini and Parmigiano-Reggiano-rind broth.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

FRONT BURNER
Paneer for Every Occasion
A line of three cheeses from Sach Foods shows paneer’s versatility.

Sach Foods Organic Paneer, $7.99 for six ounces, sachfoods.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Red Sauces With the Carbone Touch
Major Food Group is selling marinara, tomato-basil and arrabbiata that are good on their own with pasta, or doctored up to taste.

Carbone sauces, $39.96 for four 24-ounce jars, carbonefinefood.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
New Porcelain Designed With the Chef in Mind
Nancy Silverton helped design the new French bakeware line from Made In.

Made In Porcelain bakeware, $189 for a set of three; $269 for the set with the limited-edtion floral design; individual pieces, $69 to $109; madeincookware.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

From Gerardo Gonzalez, A Chilled Hibiscus Soup
The vegan, floral dish was among those that the chef, who’s been tinkering with the recipe for years, made for his quarantine pod.

Gonzalez tops the chilled soup with a dollop of cashew crema and heaps of dill.
By MARIAN BULL

Salmon Sushi Myths

Rangpur Lime

Bangkok Indian Food

Southern Thailand Giant Shrimp

Sweet Pasta and Pasta with Beans

Feeding a Roman Legion | Posca & Laridum

THE POUR
A Starter Kit for Aspiring Wine Lovers
By Eric Asimov

FRONT BURNER
Mezcal’s the Thing in a New Cocktail Book
Robert Simonson offers up scores of recipes for the Mexican spirit, and its cousin, tequila, in his latest book.

“Mezcal and Tequila Cocktails: Mixed Drinks for the Golden Age of Agave” by Robert Simonson (Ten Speed Press, $18.99).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
The Symposium’s Saucy History
A Zoom lecture explores how ancient Greeks used alcohol to fuel their discussions, and how that culture informed their drinking vessels.
“A Toast to Ancient Greek Wine Drinking,” 1 p.m., about 45 minutes long, April 15, free, archaeological.org/archaeology-abridged-webinars.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Make Sake Cocktails This Sakura Season
The Japan Society will host a virtual cocktail-making class in honor of the cherry blossoms.
Sake Cocktails: Sakura Celebration, April 22 at 6:30 p.m. Eastern, $20 for members, those over 65, and students; $25 for others; japansociety.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

EAT
The Unsung Influence of a Pioneering Food Journalist
Jane Nickerson made Craig Claiborne possible and put the cheeseburger on the map. Her recipe for lime pie is a taste of Florida sunshine.

Florida lime pie.
By SAM SIFTON

Do You Have Nafas, the Elusive Gift That Makes Food Taste Better?
The Arabic word refers to a mysterious factor that renders some people’s cooking exceptional. Whether it’s innate or acquired is up for debate.

Labiba Halloun has been cooking for more than 60 years. She is known in her hometown, Isfiya, Israel, for her delectable food, like these za’atar hand pies.
By Reem Kassis

Cappelletti

Arancini

Lemons

Honey Heart

FRONT BURNER
An Auction to Raise Money for Restaurants
The Conscious Collection includes lots of wine and spirits, as well as extravagant experiences like truffle hunting in Italy.

The Conscious Collection auction includes a chance to win a dinner for eight at Château Margaux.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

A Crawfish Feast Where the South Meets Southeast Asia
Spring is turning into a comeback season at Crawfish & Noodles, a Houston restaurant famed for the Viet-Cajun style that has spread around the country.

By Brett AndersonPhotographs by Sergio Flores

For all you foodie masochists out there:
How to Make Stunning Croissants at Home
Get those perfectly burnished, flaky pastries straight from your oven with this expert advice.

Croissants — plain or almond, or filled with chocolate or ham and cheese — are all achievable at home.
By CLAIRE SAFFITZ

Umami Is Often a Flavor Bomb. In This Creamy Pasta, It’s a Balm.
A versatile pantry staple in many cuisines, dried seaweed can lend a quiet savoriness to dishes, like this simple asparagus rigatoni.

Both dasima (dried kelp) and gim (roasted seaweed) add seaside nuance to this pasta.
By Eric Kim

The Easiest Way to Crunchy Homemade Samosas
Keep a stash, made from scratch, in the freezer, and fry them up as a quick snack to break fast, to host surprise guests or to just feed yourself.

Mint chutney is a cooling dip for crackling-hot samosas stuffed with spiced chicken.
By ZAINAB SHAH

Come Get Your Pork Chop!
Melissa Clark’s single-skillet affair pairs a rich chop with springy snap peas, mint and feta.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

WINE SCHOOL
When You Need a Wine Under $10

By Eric Asimov

Martha Lou Gadsden, Soul-Food Matriarch, Dies at 91
For 37 years she stirred the pot at Martha Lou’s Kitchen in Charleston, S.C., a modest restaurant that became known as a temple for Low Country cuisine.

Martha Lou Gadsden in Martha Lou’s Kitchen, her restaurant in Charleston. S.C., in 2011. “I know what I want done,” she said of her approach to cooking, “but to give you the recipe I’ll have to just make up one.”
By KIM SEVERSON

How to Save at the Grocery Store
Food is pleasure and connection for most of us. Staying within your budget can bring peace of mind and keep your overall spending on track.
By LEANNE BROWN

Can’t Take the Heat? A Taste for Spicy Foods Can Be Learned.
If you feel left out, here are tips for enjoying (or at least tolerating) the burn.
By DANIEL VICTOR

The 20 best cheese recipes

‘We have Marcella Hazan’s definitive parmesan risotto and Kitty Travers’s ricotta ice-cream. Plus, of course, the ultimate toastie.’
By Allan Jenkins

Where to Order Last Minute Easter Feasts for Every Mood Around the Twin Cities
From ham dinners to hearty brunch and hot cross buns in between, there’s still time to take out

Fancy up that Easter basket with sweet treats from Rose Street Patisserie/Patisserie 46
by Joy Summers and Alicia Banaszewski

New Luxury Hotel Taps Minneapolis’ Top Fine Dining Chef to Run Its Restaurants
Gavin Kaysen will oversee the Four Seasons fine dining and cafe restaurants

Gavin Kaysen is having a few friends over for dinner.
by Joy Summers

COOKING CLASS
From Zac Posen, a Rich and Briny Pasta for Spring
Having long found inspiration in the kitchen, the designer shares a recipe for uni spaghetti that he perfected after a trip to Sardinia.
By IMAN STEVENSON

MVP Chicken
Colu Henry’s sheet-pan recipe, with shallot and grapes, is sweet, savory and abundantly simple.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN

5 Fast Spring Lunches to Make at Home
Spring is here, and, with it, seasonal vegetables like asparagus, radishes and snap peas.
By KRYSTEN CHAMBROT

EAT
Is Baked Alaska the Secret to a Long Life?
A 117-year-old nun in France made me think it might be.

Birthday baked alaska.
By DORIE GREENSPAN