Food! Glorious Food!

Voices Across America
Opinion: Those $300 pandemic checks aren’t the only reason restaurant employees might not want to go back to work
Opinion by Micheline Maynard

TRILOBITES
Where Your Watermelon Came From
A genetic analysis of a melon found in Sudan may point to the wild fruit that gave rise to one of summertime’s sweetest treats.
By VERONIQUE GREENWOOD

OPINION
GUEST ESSAY
Americans Don’t Want to Return to Lousy Low Wage Jobs
By Daniel Alpert

Upended by the Pandemic, Haute Chefs Move Into Hotels
Hotels not necessarily known for fine dining are drawing award-winning chefs seeking opportunities for reinvention.
By SHEILA MARIKAR

The Forgotten Queer Legacy of Billy West and Zuni Café
The restaurant is a culinary landmark in San Francisco, but its history as a space for gay visibility is little known.
By John Birdsall

Still Here and Still Queer: The Gay Restaurant Endures
Many have closed in a time of growing inclusion and more fluid sexual identities. But in several places around the country, they remain anchors of safety and community.
By Erik Piepenburg

Why ‘Kim’s Convenience’ Is ‘Quietly Revolutionary’
In not explaining every detail of Korean food culture, the award-winning Canadian sitcom speaks volumes.
By Priya Krishna

A Black Whiskey Entrepreneur Will Help Bankroll Others Like Her
Fawn Weaver, the founder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, has amassed a $50 million venture capital fund to seed minority-owned spirits businesses.
By Elizabeth G. Dunn

A GOOD APPETITE
Move Over, Ricotta. This Pasta Gets Its Creaminess From Cottage Cheese.
A summery riff on a childhood favorite, this one-bowl dish with currants, tomatoes and mint is sweet, savory and very quick.
This pasta is a riff on an Eastern European dish of homemade egg noodles tossed with butter or sour cream and a curdy white cheese.
This pasta is a riff on an Eastern European dish of homemade egg noodles tossed with butter or sour cream and a curdy white cheese.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
A Coconut Cake for the Ages
This gâteau d’Hélène recipe from the 1970s is just as elegant and delicious today as it was decades ago.


By DORIE GREENSPAN

FRONT BURNER
Toni Tipton-Martin to Receive Julia Child Award
The cookbook author will use the $50,000 award to mentor a new generation of food writers.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Cocktail Shaker Made from American Stainless Steel
This Boston cocktail shaker, made in the U.S., is the first product from a new barware company, C&D Tools.


C&D Tools, Boston Shaker, $135, cdtoolsusa.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Inverness Is Closer Than You Think
Cowgirl Creamery’s Inverness is buttery, with a subtle tang. And it’s now available nationwide.


Escape to Inverness, three cheeses plus flatbread crackers, roasted curried cashews and chocolate-covered candied honeycomb, $80 (including overnight shipping), cowgirlcreamery.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Brush Up on Your Canning Skills
A series of webinars from Penn State Extension covers the basics of food preservation.
Preservation webinars, extension.psu.edu/preservation-webinars.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Master the Art of the Toast
A new book gives readers a look at how people raise their glasses around the world.


“Cheers! Around the World in 80 Toasts” by Brandon Cook (Red Lightning Books, $29).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Get slushed! 10 delicious frozen cocktail recipes
Celebrate the first signs of summer with these ice-cold concoctions – from watermelon margaritas to frosé


Stuart Heritage

Enjoy 8 Classic Summer Drinks, With a Twist
You can’t go wrong with a gin and tonic or a caipirinha. But many summer cocktails could stand a spark of whimsy without compromising their honest appeal.


From left, Blushing Bellini, Melon Agua Fresca, Spanish Gin and Tonic, Rosé Sangria, Freshened Paloma, Ruby Spritzer, Strawberry Lemonade, Devon Yacht Club Southside.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT