Food! Glorious Food!

MY TEN
Ina Garten Delights in Hitchcock Thrillers and Her Mini Cooper
With a new show coming to Discovery+, the Barefoot Contessa discussed her passion for French butter, Nordic dramas and a very American musical.
By ALEXIS SOLOSKI

FOOD MATTERS
In a Starving World, Is Eating Well Unethical?
A meditation on the true cost of dining when nearly one-third of the planet lacks regular access to food.
By LIGAYA MISHAN, ANTHONY COTSIFAS and VICTORIA PETRO-CONROY

FRONT BURNER
‘Six California Kitchens’ Details the Cooking Life of Sally Schmitt
The upcoming cookbook and memoir by Ms. Schmitt, who died this month at 90, weaves recipes in with memories of a full life.


“Six California Kitchens: A Collection of Recipes, Stories and Cooking Lessons from a Pioneer of California Cuisine” by Sally Schmitt with Bruce Smith, (Chronicle Books, $35), sixcaliforniakitchens.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Dress Your Spring Salads With Zeal, a Ramp Vinegar
Brightland, a company based in Los Angeles, gets its olive oils, vinegars and honeys, from small producers.

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Brightland Zeal Ramp Vinegar, $28 for 6.7 ounces, brightland.co.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Pasta Alla Vodka, but Make It Beans
Ali Slagle takes the classic dish and gives it a 2022 update with chickpeas and kale.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Thai Noodles, Far From Thailand
Cooks in the nation’s diaspora offer wisdom on making pad Thai and other classics at home. First tip: Sometimes taste is more important than tradition.


The Thai chef Pailin Chongchitnant in her kitchen in Vancouver, British Columbia, with homemade pad see ew and part of her soy sauce collection.
By Julia Moskin

How to Press Tofu
Get more crisp and crunch from your firm tofu — no special equipment required!
By TEJAL RAO

Review
I tried one of Dolly Parton’s new cake mixes, and it got me out of my 9-to-5 funk


By Emily Heil

There’s Nothing Like a Good Concha. Here’s How to Make Them Great.
The popular Mexican sweet bread, with its seashell-shaped topping, is a delight when prepared right.

This concha recipe, which includes options for café con leche, vanilla and chocolate toppings, results in springy and light buns.
This concha recipe, which includes options for café con leche, vanilla and chocolate toppings, results in springy and light buns.
By Pati Jinich

PEOPLE, PLACES, THINGS
Near Japan’s Mount Asama, a Wine Bar Floats Among the Trees
Plus: a new bronze watch from Panerai, snails in Asian cuisine and more from T’s cultural compendium.

THE POUR
10 Grapes Worth Knowing Better
For many reasons, these varieties have either been unfairly dismissed or are little known outside their home regions. But they make joyful wines.
Altesse, Areni, Baga, Bobal, Brachetto, Fer Servadou, Frontenac, Mandilaria, Pecorino, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzese,
By Eric Asimov