When ‘Sir’ and ‘Ma’am’ Miss the Mark: Restaurants Rethink Gender’s Role in Service
A dinner out can be discomforting for nonbinary and transgender people. But efforts are afoot to change that.
By Rax Will

IN THE GARDEN
If You Think Kale Is ‘So 2010,’ You’re Not Growing the Right Ones
When it comes to kale, the organic farmers at Adaptive Seeds have a few things to teach you — and some versions of the familiar green that may not be so familiar.
By MARGARET ROACH

A GOOD APPETITE
The Best Parts of Stuffed Cabbage, Minus the Work
This interpretation of the classic features a streamlined recipe and a vibrant filling of anchovies, Parmesan and walnuts.

There’s no need to separate individual cabbage leaves, blanch them and roll them around a filling here. The stuffing instead is massaged into the crevices of raw cabbage.
By Melissa Clark

A Two-Ingredient Sauce for Pork Chops
Ali Slagle’s mixture of grainy mustard and fruit preserves is the ideal pairing for the seared chops.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

The Secret to Smoky Vegetables
You can achieve that irresistible savoriness of wok hei, even without a wok.
By TEJAL RAO

Protect Your Heart? A Genetic Study Offers a New Answer.
By studying the relationship between gene variants and alcohol consumption, scientists found no real cardiac benefit to drinking, even modestly.
The study analyzed the genes and medical data of nearly 400,000 people in the U.K. The average age of study subjects was 57, and they reported drinking an average of 9.2 drinks a week.
By Gina Kolata

MY TEN
Ina Garten Delights in Hitchcock Thrillers and Her Mini Cooper
With a new show coming to Discovery+, the Barefoot Contessa discussed her passion for French butter, Nordic dramas and a very American musical.
By ALEXIS SOLOSKI

FOOD MATTERS
In a Starving World, Is Eating Well Unethical?
A meditation on the true cost of dining when nearly one-third of the planet lacks regular access to food.
By LIGAYA MISHAN, ANTHONY COTSIFAS and VICTORIA PETRO-CONROY

FRONT BURNER
‘Six California Kitchens’ Details the Cooking Life of Sally Schmitt
The upcoming cookbook and memoir by Ms. Schmitt, who died this month at 90, weaves recipes in with memories of a full life.

“Six California Kitchens: A Collection of Recipes, Stories and Cooking Lessons from a Pioneer of California Cuisine” by Sally Schmitt with Bruce Smith, (Chronicle Books, $35), sixcaliforniakitchens.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Dress Your Spring Salads With Zeal, a Ramp Vinegar
Brightland, a company based in Los Angeles, gets its olive oils, vinegars and honeys, from small producers.

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Brightland Zeal Ramp Vinegar, $28 for 6.7 ounces, brightland.co.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Pasta Alla Vodka, but Make It Beans
Ali Slagle takes the classic dish and gives it a 2022 update with chickpeas and kale.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Thai Noodles, Far From Thailand
Cooks in the nation’s diaspora offer wisdom on making pad Thai and other classics at home. First tip: Sometimes taste is more important than tradition.

The Thai chef Pailin Chongchitnant in her kitchen in Vancouver, British Columbia, with homemade pad see ew and part of her soy sauce collection.
By Julia Moskin

How to Press Tofu
Get more crisp and crunch from your firm tofu — no special equipment required!
By TEJAL RAO

Review
I tried one of Dolly Parton’s new cake mixes, and it got me out of my 9-to-5 funk

By Emily Heil

There’s Nothing Like a Good Concha. Here’s How to Make Them Great.
The popular Mexican sweet bread, with its seashell-shaped topping, is a delight when prepared right.

This concha recipe, which includes options for café con leche, vanilla and chocolate toppings, results in springy and light buns.
By Pati Jinich

PEOPLE, PLACES, THINGS
Near Japan’s Mount Asama, a Wine Bar Floats Among the Trees
Plus: a new bronze watch from Panerai, snails in Asian cuisine and more from T’s cultural compendium.

THE POUR
10 Grapes Worth Knowing Better
For many reasons, these varieties have either been unfairly dismissed or are little known outside their home regions. But they make joyful wines.
Altesse, Areni, Baga, Bobal, Brachetto, Fer Servadou, Frontenac, Mandilaria, Pecorino, and Trebbiano d’Abruzzese,
By Eric Asimov

The Case for Induction Cooking
As the perils of cooking with gas become more apparent, there’s ever more reason for cooks to turn to these flameless, easy-to-clean ranges.
By MELISSA CLARK

TRILOBITES
When Pigs Cry: Tool Decodes the Emotional Lives of Swine
An algorithm built by European researchers could help farmers “speak pig” to improve the animals’ welfare.
By CORINNE PURTILL

McDonald’s Ice Cream Woes Have Inspired Memes, Mockery and Now, a Federal Lawsuit
A California tech company that tried to solve the problem of malfunctioning ice cream machines claims in the suit that it was thwarted by McDonald’s.
When the ice cream machines stop working at McDonald’s, they set off particularly strong emotions in disappointed customers.
By Maria Cramer

COOKING CLASS
The Milk and Cookies Cake Roxane Gay Swears By
Frosted with buttercream and finished with chocolate chips, this confection is so good you don’t need a special occasion to bake it, the writer says.

Gay uses a slightly different recipe for the fluffy mascarpone buttercream.
By ANDRÉ WHEELER

The Pillowy Magic of Milk Bread
Milk bread at its best is soft and almost sweet, with a wispy, ethereal texture.

By ERIC KIM

These Garlic Noodles Are Magic
J. Kenji López-Alt’s recipe uses a garlic-butter sauce and ingredients full of umami for maximum flavor.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Crème de Cassis for the 21st Century
You can use this black currant-based liqueur in more than just kir. Here’s how to use it at home.

Stirred into a split of bourbon and rye, crème de cassis helps create a contemporary take on a manhattan.
By Rebekah Peppler

Chowhound Closes After 25 Years of Food Obsession, Wisdom and Debate
Founded in 1997 as a place for New York restaurant lovers, the site became a nationwide forum for dining and culinary discourse.
An early web home for food fanatics, Chowhound will close after 25 years, its moderators announced.
By Eric Asimov

Sally Schmitt, Trend-Setting Restaurateur, Is Dead at 90
She founded the French Laundry in the Napa Valley with her husband, Don, and is often cited as a pioneer in California cuisine.

The restaurateur Sally Schmitt at her farm in Philo, Calif., in 2019. In 1978 she and her husband, Don, opened the French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and helped solidify the Napa Valley as a food-and-wine destination.
By NEIL GENZLINGER

Charles E. Entenmann, Last of a Storied Baking Family, Dies at 92
Working with his brothers and their mother, he helped turn the company that bore their name into a nationally known symbol of sweetness.

Charles Entenmann at one of his company’s dough-making machines in 1976. One of three brothers who ran the company with their mother, he had a knack for engineering and administration.
By JAMES BARRON

Fred Ferretti, Reporter Turned Writer on Food, Dies at 90
He covered every aspect of dining for The Times from 1969 to 1986 and then became a columnist for Gourmet magazine.

Fred Ferretti in 2008 with his wife, Yin-Fei Lo, an authority on Chinese cuisine. For a time they reviewed restaurants together.
By SAM ROBERTS

Alain Graillot, Influential Rhône Valley Winemaker, Dies at 77
Skilled, charismatic and energetic, he found success in a region that had not been esteemed for its wines, helping to raise its international reputation.

The winemaker Alain Graillot, right, with his son Maxime in an undated photo
By ERIC ASIMOV

Food Companies, Long Symbols of the West in Russia, Pause Operations
After years of cultivating the Russian market, McDonald’s, Starbucks, PepsiCo and Coca-Cola said they would temporarily close locations or stop selling products there.
By JULIE CRESWELL

One Huge Hog, One Long Day and a Nourishing Southern Tradition
At his farm in South Carolina, Marvin Ross is carrying on the ritual of hog slaughters, a disappearing staple of Black agrarian life.
By KAYLA STEWART and CLAY WILLIAMS

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Once Obscured in the U.S., Lao Cooks Share and Celebrate Their Cuisine
At times spicy and bitter, salty and pungent, herbaceous and sour — Lao food is intensely delicious.

Thum mak hoong, or papaya salad, is a fundamental dish in Lao cuisine, with as many variations as there are cooks.
By TEJAL RAO

These Garlic Noodles Cross Cultures, but Are Deeply San Franciscan
J. Kenji López-Alt’s take on a beloved Vietnamese American dish, invented by Helene An of Thanh Long restaurant, is creamy, garlic-packed and full of smart techniques.

These simple noodles, ready in 15 minutes, go extremely well with seafood.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

The Dreamiest Desserts Start With These Two Flavors
Kesar pista, an intoxicating combination of fragrant saffron and earthy pistachio, is a favorite on the Indian subcontinent — and an excellent base for many sweets.

Kesar pista, or saffron and pistachio, is a flavor combination that can work well in practically any dessert.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

SHOPPING GUIDE
Shopping for Teapots
Because a beautiful teapot makes drinking tea even better.
By TIM MCKEOUGH

FRONT BURNER
This Greek Olive Vodka Calls for a Martini
Kástra Elión is distilled from wheat and a mixture of olives hand-picked in Nafpaktos, Greece.

Kástra Elión Vodka, $55, reservebar.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Out of the Desert, a Rare Fruit Garden and a Lasting Legacy
Dr. Alois Falkenstein put decades of work into breeding and cultivating rare fruits in the Arizona desert, and created a community of like-minded gardeners.
By DAVID BLAKEMAN

Mistakes Happen. In the Kitchen, That Can Be the Best Thing.
For her final column, Dorie Greenspan shares how a recipe misstep led to perfectly imperfect chocolate thumbprint cookies.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

I’m common as muck and spent £150 in a Michelin star restaurant to see if it was worth it
I went to Adams in the city centre and the food had me in tears
ByKirsty Bosley

Dorayaki, galettes and blintzes: Yotam Ottolenghi’s pancake recipes from around the world
Give Pancake Day the flip with brunchable Breton-style stuffed buckwheat galettes, Japanese coffee-cream pancake buns, or these irresistible foldover crepes soaked in a lemon curd mascarpone syrupI’m common as muck and spent £150 in a Michelin star restaurant to see if it was worth it
I went to Adams in the city centre and the food had me in tears

Yotam Ottolenghi

A GOOD APPETITE
This Greek Meatball Soup Is Lemony, Velvety and Bright
A riff on youvarlakia avgolemono, this dish is made with ground chicken and rice meatballs floating in a tangy, lemon-egg broth.

Every spoonful of this soup vibrates with flavor from citrus, dill, chicken stock and egg yolk
By MELISSA CLARK

For Today’s Cocktails and Tonics, Flowers Are So Much More Than a Garnish
From hibiscus to borage to violet, blooms are showing up in drinks and lending them beauty, decadence and a flavor all their own.

A champagne coupe full of peony, cherry blossom, linden, verbena and violet next to a pitcher stuffed with marigold, hibiscus, linden, peony, verbena and cherry blossom, which is also arrayed on the base.
By DIANA ABU-JABER, ANTHONY COTSIFAS and LEILIN LOPEZ-TOLEDO