Food! Glorious Food!

A New Orleans Mardi Gras With a Different Sort of Mask
The bar scene so central to the city’s economy and allure is about to become the stage for an unusually muted and bittersweet celebration.
By BRETT ANDERSON

Vegan Restaurant Gets Michelin Star in France, a First
“We want to show you can eat differently,” said Claire Vallée, whose restaurant won the star. A growing number of chefs are eschewing France’s traditional, meat-focused cuisine.


Claire Vallée, the chef at ONA, which opened five years ago in southwest France.
By AURELIEN BREEDEN

The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Restaurant Owamni Eyes Spring Opening
The Sioux Chef team will introduce Twin Citians to Native American food without using Euro-centric ingredients. Owamni comes to the Minneapolis riverfront this spring, and it’s 300 years in the making.


by Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl

EAT
I Lost My Appetite Because of Covid. This Sichuan Flavor Brought It Back.
The classic combination in mala of Sichuan peppercorns and chiles makes for a sensation that is spicy, tingly and spicy again.


By TEJAL RAO

A GOOD APPETITE
The Best Butterscotch Pudding Is Homemade
This unfussy, old-fashioned recipe is easy to stir together on top of the stove, and hard to mess up.


The flavor of butterscotch pudding comes from dark brown sugar that’s been caramelized in butter and rounded out with vanilla.
By MELISSA CLARK

WINE SCHOOL
In Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the Gifts of Simplicity
By Eric Asimov

WINE SCHOOL
In Fleurie, Looking Beyond the Clichés of Beaujolais


By Eric Asimov

With Pastry Beers, Have Your Cake and Drink It, Too
As breweries move beyond challenging flavors, they’re taking inspiration from desserts, snacks and candies.


Oozlefinch Beers & Blending in Fort Monroe, Va., evokes desserts in beers like the Das Yummy sour ale, which is inspired by Key lime pie.
By Joshua M. Bernstein

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Debra Ivory, Smiling Owner of a Barbecue Haven, Dies at 62
In her mid-50s, she cashed out some retirement savings to buy an Oklahoma City eatery, revamping the menu with family recipes. She died of complications of Covid-19.


By STEPHEN KURCZY