Food! Glorious Food!

MEXICO CITY DISPATCH
2 Broke Artists Started a Bakery at Home. It’s a Pandemic Hit.
They didn’t have an oven. Their apartment resembled Santa’s workshop set up in a dorm room. But two rookie bakers are thriving in Mexico City, where food and entrepreneurism go hand-in-hand.

David Ayala-Alfonso, center, and Andrea Ferrero boxing up their cakes and brownies in Mexico City this month. They recently hired Yorely Valero, left, to help them in the business.Credit...Meghan Dhaliwal for The New York Times
David Ayala-Alfonso, center, and Andrea Ferrero boxing up their cakes and brownies in Mexico City this month. They recently hired Yorely Valero, left, to help them in the business.
By Natalie Kitroeff

FEATURE
The Fed-Up Chef
Gaggan Anand turned his Indian restaurant in Bangkok into a pilgrimage site for globe-hopping foodies. So why, even before the pandemic hit, was he willing to give it up?


“If you are here to judge me,” Gaggan Anand says, “you are in the superwrong restaurant.” Credit…Amanda Mustard for The New York Times
By Sheila Marikar

The Promise of Pawpaw
Issues like climate change, economic inequity and access to food have brought more attention to this creamy fruit and its resilient tree.

Devon Mihesuah, a professor of native history and culture at the University of Kansas, holding the ancient, native North American fruit tree still found across most of the eastern half of the United States.Credit...Barrett Emke for The New York Times
Devon Mihesuah, a professor of native history and culture at the University of Kansas, holding the ancient, native North American fruit tree still found across most of the eastern half of the United States.
By Rachel Wharton

How to Grow (and Eat) a Pawpaw
When to plant and when to harvest this native North American fruit.

Pawpaws produce filling fruits that are creamy when ripe and taste like a blend of banana, pineapple and mango.Credit...John Taggart for The New York Times
Pawpaws produce filling fruits that are creamy when ripe and taste like a blend of banana, pineapple and mango.
By Rachel Wharton

EAT
This Tuna-Salad Sandwich Is Julia Child-Approved Lunch

Credit...Photograph by Heami Lee Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
By Dorie Greenspan

A GOOD APPETITE
A Childhood Favorite Reimagined
Harissa and lamb, pork and fennel, and vegan mushroom with leeks and farro make sophisticated fillings for the humble Australian sausage roll.

These Australian sausage rolls are inspired by those made at Bourke Street Bakery near Madison Square Park in Manhattan.Credit...Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
These Australian sausage rolls are inspired by those made at Bourke Street Bakery near Madison Square Park in Manhattan.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
Wear Your Heart on Your Feet
For lovers of all things sprinkles, there’s a new shoe collaboration between Vans and Flour Shop.


By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
Brush Up Your Pie Skills
The cookbook author Kate McDermott teaches a series of pie-making classes online, via the 92nd Street Y.

Kate McDermott, right, will share her pie skills virtually in a series of classes at the 92nd Street Y.Credit...via Kate McDermott
Kate McDermott, right, will share her pie skills virtually in a series of classes at the 92nd Street Y.
Intro to Making Pies With Kate McDermott, Oct. 26, Nov. 2, Nov. 9, 6:30 to 8 p.m., $120, 92Y.org, 212-415-5500.
Florence Fabricant

A ‘Perfect’ Chocolate Chip Cookie, and the Chef Who Created It
The British pastry chef Ravneet Gill ran countless tests to arrive at her version of the classic recipe.

The dough is rolled into balls right away, as opposed to chilling it first, giving these chocolate chip cookies gentle domes in the center.Credit...Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.
The dough is rolled into balls right away, as opposed to chilling it first, giving these chocolate chip cookies gentle domes in the center.
By Charlotte Druckman

In Trying Times, 20 Wines Under $20 That Revive and Restore

Credit...Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
If you are tired of drinking the same old thing, these bottles, from nine different countries, represent the wide range of great values now available.

Dautel Württemberg Weissburgunder Trocken 2017 $15.99
Pedro Parra y Familia Secano Interior Itata Vinista País 2018 $15.99
Fabre Montmayou Mendoza Cabernet Franc Reserva 2019 $16
Domaine de la Bastide Côtes du Rhône 2018 $16.96
Storm Point Swartland Chenin Blanc 2019 $16.99
Château la Grolet Côtes de Bourg 2017 $17.96
A Los Viñateros Bravos Itata Pipeño Tinto 2019 1 liter $17.99
Trediberri Dogliani Bricco Mollea 2019 $17.99
Foxglove Paso Robles Zinfandel 2016 $18
Roca Altxerri Getariako Txakolina Camino 2019 $18.99
Matthiasson Napa Valley Chardonnay Village 2019 $18.99
Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Rioja Blanco Señorío de P. Peciña 2018 $19
Bodegas Yuste Aurora Manzanilla NV 500 milliliters $19.99
Keller Rheinhessen Riesling Trocken 2019 $19.99
Aslina by Ntsiki Biyela South Africa Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 $19.99
Compañía de Vinos del Atlántico Vara y Pulgar Vino de la Tierra de Cádiz Tintilla 2015 $19.99
Casa de Saima Bairrada Baga Bruto 2017 $19.99
Feudo Montoni Sicilia Nero d’Avola Lagnusa 2017 $19.99
Chiara Condello Romagna Sangiovese Predappio 2017 $19.99
Xavier Weisskopf Le Rocher des Violettes Vin de France Chenin 2019 $19.99

By Eric Asimov

Hot Toddy Season Comes Early This Year
Outdoor seating and dropping temperatures have created a demand for warming cocktails at New York City bars.


The Manhattan bar Dante has a Blue Blazer, a 19th-century flaming whiskey drink.Credit…Jeenah Moon for The New York Times
By Robert Simonson