Food! Glorious Food!

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

Twilight of the Imperial Chef

For decades, the notion of the lone genius in the kitchen has fostered culinary creativity — and restaurants marred by abuse and unfairness. This may be the time for change.
By Tejal Rao

For the Navajo Nation, a Fight for Better Food Gains New Urgency


As the pandemic has brought home the importance of the global movement for food sovereignty, members are planting and sharing.
By Amelia Nierenberg

Peanut Butter and Ranch Dressing: What Americans Abroad Miss From Home

With virus cases in the United States rising and international travel curtailed, many Americans do not know when they will be able to reunite with home and the comforts they associate with it.
By Valeriya Safronova

EAT

These Rolls Will Change the Way You See Sourdough


Choco pan de coco.
By Tejal Rao

A Colombian Chef Shares His Secret to Better Empanadas

For even better flavor and texture in his masa, J. Kenji López-Alt borrowed a technique from the chef Carlos Gaviria: milling popcorn.


Colombian beef and potato empanadas.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

A GOOD APPETITE

Chewy Meets Crispy in This Summery Salad

This satisfying bowl gets its bite from farro, its crunch from spiced chickpeas, and its sweetness from roasted corn and slivered fennel.


Farro salad with corn and crispy chickpeas.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

This Watermelon Salad Is Meant for Hot Days


You can use any kind of pickled chiles in this refreshing summery dish.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

Let This Blueberry Bundt Cake Pull You Out of Your Baking Rut


You don’t need a special occasion for this showstopping treat, finished with a jewel-toned glaze.
By Melissa Clark

ONE GOOD MEAL

A Food Writer’s Sicilian Pasta Dish — and Tips for Sharing It

Skye McAlpine has made a name for herself serving bountiful meals to large groups of friends. During lockdown, she’s discovered the joy of cooking for just one or two.


McAlpine got the recipe for this pasta dish from a Sicilian friend who had been swearing by it for years.
By Isabel Wilkinson

Make Pizza … On Your Grill


Bear with us. We know this sounds bonkers, but it really does work.
By Amelia Nierenberg

FRONT BURNER

A Dark, Brooding Rum for Your Cocktails


Santa Teresa in Venezuela has been making the liquor since 1796.
By Florence Fabricant

Distilleries Raced to Make Hand Sanitizer for the Pandemic. No Longer.

Even though coronavirus cases have surged again, craft distilleries say the business of making the disinfectant has become more difficult.
By Kellen Browning

WINE SCHOOL

What Is a Great Wine? Verdicchio di Matelica Has Some Ideas

By Eric Asimov

THOSE WE’VE LOST

John Eric Swing, a Filipino-American Community Builder, Dies at 48.


Mr. Swing was a catalyst in the Historic Filipinotown neighborhood of Los Angeles, a new center of food start-ups. He died of complications of the coronavirus.
By John Leland