Monthly Archives: August 2020

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

The Personal History of David Copperfield
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG | Comedy, Drama | Directed by Armando Iannucci


Armando Iannucci’s souped-up, trimmed-down adaptation of the Dickens novel is an exuberant, heartfelt delight.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Ghost Tropic
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Bas Devos


Bas Devos captures the sleeping outer portions of Brussels in this drama about a hard-working woman who finds herself stranded.
By GLENN KENNY

Nomad: In the Footsteps of Bruce Chatwin
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, Biography | Directed by Werner Herzog


Herzog honors the writer and explorer Bruce Chatwin in this stimulating and visually overwhelming documentary.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

Bill & Ted Face the Music
PG-13 | Adventure, Comedy, Music, Sci-Fi | Directed by Dean Parisot


Keanu Reeves and Alex Winter travel through time to save reality and redeem the honor of Generation X.
‘That’s too strong a word [genius] to apply to “Bill & Ted Face the Music,” which like its predecessors is winningly modest and harmlessly silly. I don’t know if it made me feel young or old, but it was all in all a most non-bogus experience.’
By A.O. SCOTT

Food! Glorious Food!

McDonald’s Investigating Whether Former C.E.O. Covered Up Others’ Misconduct
The fast-food chain, which is seeking to claw back compensation from the fired chief executive, said it was also examining its human resources department.
McDonald’s filed a lawsuit earlier this month seeking to recoup tens of millions of dollars in compensation that its former chief executive, Steve Easterbrook, was allowed to keep when he was fired.
By Rachel Abrams

Can Artificial Sweeteners Keep Us From Gaining Weight?
Sugar substitutes may help stave off weight gain, but they have metabolic effects that some experts find concerning.
By Anahad O’Connor

How the U.K. Restarted Its Restaurant Industry: Paying Half the Bill
Britons eager for a bargain have taken up the government’s “eat out to help out” offer. But how long will the resurgence last?


The restaurants of Soho, in London, are busier since the government started a discount campaign. Credit…Alexander Ingram for The New York Times
By Eshe Nelson

He Wants to Save the Present With the Indigenous Past
Bruce Pascoe’s book “Dark Emu” sparked a reconsideration of Australian history. Now he hopes to use his writing to revive Aboriginal community.

Bruce Pascoe in a field of mandadyan nalluk, also known as “dancing grass.” Credit...AnnaMaria Antoinette D'Addario for The New York Times
Bruce Pascoe in a field of mandadyan nalluk, also known as “dancing grass.”
By Damien Cave

Behind the Cancellation of James Beard Awards, Worries About Chefs’ Behavior and No Black Winners
The decision to put the honors, the Oscars of American restaurants, on hiatus came amid concerns about a lack of diversity and allegations against some nominees.
The James Beard major awards to restaurants and chefs, usually announced each May in Chicago, were first postponed, then called off.
By Pete Wells

Black Chefs Are Landing More Cookbook Deals. Is That Enough?
African-American food writers are seeing more interest among publishers, but the ones who have been burned by the experience warn that the industry’s problems go further than advances and paychecks.
By Elizabeth A. Harris and Concepción de León

For Black Jam Makers, the Power Is in Preserving
As the conversation turns to racial issues in the craft food movement, canning quality fruit is often the easy part.

Ashley Rouse, the founder of Trade Street Jam Company, recently cooked a batch of brandied apricot lavender jam in her Brooklyn apartment. Credit...Emon Hassan for The New York Times
Ashley Rouse, the founder of Trade Street Jam Company, recently cooked a batch of brandied apricot lavender jam in her Brooklyn apartment.
By Kim Severson

Where the Produce Includes Pepperoni: The Pizza Farm
This Midwestern staple has grown ever more popular in the pandemic, bringing farmers and diners together in a socially distanced summer destination.

Pleasant Grove Pizza Farm
41142 160th Street, Waseca, Minn.; 715-523-0857; pleasantgrovepizzafarm.com

Hawkins Family Farm
10373 N 300 E, North Manchester, Ind.; no phone; hawkinsfamilyfarm.com

A to Z Produce and Bakery
N2956 Anker Lane, Stockholm, Wis.; 715-448-4802; atozproduceandbakery.com

Amber Waves Farm
367 Main St, Amagansett, N.Y.; 631-267-5664; amberwavesfarm.org

Millsap Farms
6593 North Emu Lane, Springfield, Mo.; 417-839-0847; millsapfarms.com

At Luna Valley Farm in Decorah, Iowa, and other pizza farms across the country, the crops become toppings on summer nights.
By Julia Moskin

Charcuterie With All of the Smoke but None of the Meat
American chefs are exploring the possibilities of plant-based salumi, and even home chefs can try their hand.

Watermelon ham, the breakout star of plant-based charcuterie, became an internet sensation when it was introduced two years ago at Ducks Eatery, in Manhattan. Credit...Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Carrie Purcell.
Watermelon ham, the breakout star of plant-based charcuterie, became an internet sensation when it was introduced two years ago at Ducks Eatery, in Manhattan.
By Steven Raichlen

Chaat Is More Than the Sum of Its Many Flavors
Hard to define but easy to crave, these Indian snacks have become a fascination for the Nashville chef Maneet Chauhan.

During the pandemic, the chef Maneet Chauhan has frequently made chaat at home for her husband, Vivek Deora, and two children. Credit...Brett Carlsen for The New York Times
During the pandemic, the chef Maneet Chauhan has frequently made chaat at home for her husband, Vivek Deora, and two children.
By Priya Krishna

The Most Comforting Dish of All
A beloved dish from Yotam Ottolenghi’s father inspired this one-pan spaghetti dinner.

This dish has a crunchy layer on top, helped by a sprinkle of Parmesan crumbs, and another one at the bottom, where the pasta touches the hot pan and fries a little. Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
This dish has a crunchy layer on top, helped by a sprinkle of Parmesan crumbs, and another one at the bottom, where the pasta touches the hot pan and fries a little.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

10 No-Cook Pasta Sauces for Summer
These bright, flavorful sauces don’t have to simmer for hours — or at all.

This no-cook pasta sauce comes together in the time it takes to boil the noodles. Credit...Ali Slagle
This no-cook pasta sauce comes together in the time it takes to boil the noodles.
By Ali Slagle

FROM THE PANTRY
Tired of Tuna? This Chickpea Salad Sandwich Is Just the Thing
Let this simple dish remind you of those dependable school lunches in the best possible way.


By Melissa Clark

Bean Cakes You Can Depend On
These spicy vegetarian patties come together in about 45 minutes using practically any kind of cooked bean.

Yewande Komolafe’s crispy bean cakes with scallions and herbs. Credit...Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Frances Boswell.
Yewande Komolafe’s crispy bean cakes with scallions and herbs.
By Yewande Komolafe

FRONT BURNER
Corn With a Purple Blush
Wild violet corn is a new seasonal offering from Baldor Specialty Foods.


Wild violet corn, $5.49 for four ears; baby corn, $39.99 for five pounds (about 40 ears), baldorfood.com.
By Florence Fabricant

EAT
This Zucchini Tian Is Nonna-Inspired Cooking at Restaurant Speed

Zucchini tian. Credit...Heami Lee for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
Zucchini tian.
By Gabrielle Hamilton

A GOOD APPETITE
The Poundcake of Your Dreams
This buttery loaf has a moist, golden crumb, a crème fraîche tang and a texture just as light (or dense) as you like.

You can make this cake lighter or denser, depending on the amount of baking powder you add to the batter. Credit...Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
You can make this cake lighter or denser, depending on the amount of baking powder you add to the batter.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
This Chocolate Liqueur Is a Keeper
Organic Mixology’s new chocolate and sea salt liqueur adds a sophisticated note to cocktails like the sidecar.


OM Dark Chocolate & Sea Salt Liqueur, $29.99 for 375 milliliters, $39.99 for 750 milliliters, shop.organicmixology.com.
By Florence Fabricant

THE POUR
There’s More to German Wine Than Riesling
Germany produces a host of great wines, made from grapes both famous and little known. Often, they are produced in small lots and are great values.


By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Son of the White Mare
NYT Critic’s Pick | Animation, Adventure, Fantasy | Directed by Marcell Jankovics


The film nods to earlier notables of animation: the hallucinatory palette of “Yellow Submarine” and the rich visual storytelling of “Fantasia.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

Cut Throat City
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Action, Crime, Drama, Thriller | Directed by RZA


With his third feature as | Director, RZA, who first rose to fame with Wu-Tang Clan, comes into his own as a filmmaker.
By GLENN KENNY

Coup 53
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, History | Directed by Taghi Amirani


Taghi Amirani’s documentary is an obsessively detailed dive into the 1953 ouster of Prime Minister Mohammad Mossadegh of Iran.
By BEN KENIGSBERG

— Of Possible Interest —

Tesla
PG-13 | Biography, Drama | Directed by Michael Almereyda


Ethan Hawke plays the melancholy visionary Nikola Tesla in Michael Almereyda’s meditative anti-biopic.
By A.O. SCOTT

Food! Glorious Food!

You Probably Won’t Catch the Coronavirus From Frozen Food
Reports that the virus was detected in a trans-continental shipment of frozen chicken wings sparked concerns online. But experts aren’t worried.
Samples taken from chicken tested positive for coronavirus RNA, but that doesn’t mean the virus was transmissible.
By Katherine J. Wu

A GOOD APPETITE
When Lamb Chops Met Romaine
The combination of grilled lamb chops, crisp romaine lettuce hearts and creamy ranch dressing is almost a salad, but not quite.

This is “a sort-of salad”: meaty and satisfying, but still fresh and sprightly enough for any late-summer evening. Credit...Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.
This is “a sort-of salad”: meaty and satisfying, but still fresh and sprightly enough for any late-summer evening.
By Melissa Clark

A Summer Lunch That Feels Like a Splurge
A lobster salad doesn’t have to be relegated to special occasions, David Tanis argues.

Herbed goat cheese and roasted pepper toasts, left, and lobster salad with green beans, tomatoes and basil, center. Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Herbed goat cheese and roasted pepper toasts, left, and lobster salad with green beans, tomatoes and basil, center.
By David Tanis

EAT
Sabudana Khichdi Is Your New Favorite Comfort Food

Sabudana khichdi, with tapioca, peanuts, potatoes and spices. Credit...Heami Lee for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
Sabudana khichdi, with tapioca, peanuts, potatoes and spices.
By Samin Nosrat

Pleasantly Bitter and Thoroughly Grown-Up, No Alcohol Needed
A new crop of booze-free beverages brings dimension and depth to the genre.

Nonalcoholic beverages like Curious Elixirs use bitter, adult-drink flavor profiles. Credit...Tony Cenicola/The New York Times
Nonalcoholic beverages like Curious Elixirs use bitter, adult-drink flavor profiles.
By Julia Bainbridge

Beer Truly Is the Champagne of Cocktails
The next time you crack open a cold one, consider its possibilities.

The Tequila Soleil is a cross between a Negroni and a spritz. An I.P.A. gives it hoppy notes. Credit...Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
The Tequila Soleil is a cross between a Negroni and a spritz. An I.P.A. gives it hoppy notes.
By Rebekah Peppler

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

A Thousand Cuts
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Ramona S. Diaz


This documentary profiles Maria Ressa, a journalist who has fearlessly chronicled abuses in the Philippines under the Duterte government.
By BEN KENIGSBERG

An Easy Girl
NYT Critic’s Pick | Comedy, Drama | Directed by Rebecca Zlotowski


An inexperienced teenager and her more sophisticated cousin experience a transformative summer in this smart and sultry coming-of-age story.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Mudar de Vida
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Paulo Rocha


Paulo Rocha’s 1966 triumph is set in a Portuguese fishing village, where residents live hand-to-mouth.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

Sputnik


Unrated | Drama, Horror, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Egor Abramenko
This Russian sci-fi horror picture strongly advises that what you find in space should stay there.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

The Nation Wanted to Eat Out Again. Everyone Has Paid the Price.
Governments and restaurant owners wanted to get back to business. But bars and restaurants have become a focal point for clusters of Covid infections.
By Jennifer Steinhauer

Salmonella Cases Linked to Onions Increase to Nearly 900
Grocery chains, including Publix and Giant Eagle, have recalled onions supplied by Thomson International and products that may contain the onions.
Last week, Thomson International recalled red, yellow, white and sweet onions shipped since May 1 because of the risk of contamination.
By Christina Morales

T PRESENTS
The Acclaimed Soba Maker Who Champions Home Cooking
Working out of her California kitchen, Sonoko Sakai pays homage to Japanese culinary traditions through recipes, food activism and intimate classes.


Sonoko Sakai in the “soba room” of her studio in Highland Park, Los Angeles.
By Mimi Vu

A GOOD APPETITE
This One Is for the Focaccia Lovers
Lighter and fresher than pizza, this crisp-edged flatbread is also a celebration of summer eggplant.


Eggplant focaccia with ricotta and olives.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY
For the Crispiest Tofu, Leave It Alone


This simple recipe brings out its crunchy side, then pairs it with olives and blistered tomatoes.
By Melissa Clark

Finding the Soul of Sonora in Carne Asada
A carne asada goes far beyond grilled meat: In the Mexican state of Sonora, it’s a weekly ritual, a tight-knit gathering of friends and family.


Every component of a carne asada is treated with almost reverence.
By Pati Jinich

The Simple Joys of Tamarind
Sweet, sour and tender under its brittle shell, the fruit’s pulp is equally at home in desserts and savory dishes.


When working with tamarind fruit pods, make sure they’re unripe, which ensures a stronger degree of sourness.
By Nik Sharma

EAT
The Particular Texture and Joy of Homemade Ice Cream


By Dorie Greenspan

THE POUR
Wine Joins the 2020 Debate Over Privilege and Justice
An accusation involving migrant labor in Puglia leads to self-examination and, perhaps, new awareness of the treatment of agricultural workers.
By Eric Asimov

Carol Brock, Who Pushed at a ‘Pyrex Ceiling,’ Dies at 96
A veteran food writer, she founded Les Dames d’Escoffier, a society for women in the male-dominated culinary world.


Carol Brock created a gastronomic club for women. “She the was the life of the party,” one friend said. “She would make connections with new people and use every one to generate new ideas.”
By John Leland

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Barbara Costikyan, New York Magazine Food Columnist, Dies at 91
Ms. Costikyan, who died of the coronavirus, once wrote that she couldn’t think about food “without thinking about the people who do it.”


Barbara Costikyan in 1976. She turned a love of food and hospitality into a job.
By Emma Goldberg

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

She Dies Tomorrow

NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy, Drama, Thriller | Directed by Amy Seimetz


A film made before the pandemic now feels uncomfortably timely.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Sunless Shadows

NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Mehrdad Oskouei


Mehrdad Oskouei’s documentary brings empathy to a tough subject: women and girls convicted of murdering male family members.
By KRISTEN YOONSOO KIM

River City Drumbeat

NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Anne Flatte, Marlon Johnson


At the heart of this documentary from Marlon Johnson and Anne Flatté is a drum line in Louisville, Ky., that offers children a chance to engage with Black art and history.
By TEO BUGBEE

Howard

NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Don Hahn


A new documentary looks at the prodigious talent of Howard Ashman, one half of the musical team behind “The Little Mermaid” and others, before he died of AIDS at 40.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

  • Of Possible Interest —

Pychomagic, a Healing Art

Documentary | Directed by Alejandro Jodorowsky


In this documentary, Alejandro Jodorowsky compares Freud’s “science” to his own “magic” and chronicles aiming for cures with methods resembling performance art.
By GLENN KENNY

Out Stealing Horses

Not Rated | Drama, Mystery | Directed by Hans Petter Moland


But the protagonist of this film, based on a Norwegian novel, would prefer to forget the past.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

Twilight of the Imperial Chef

For decades, the notion of the lone genius in the kitchen has fostered culinary creativity — and restaurants marred by abuse and unfairness. This may be the time for change.
By Tejal Rao

For the Navajo Nation, a Fight for Better Food Gains New Urgency


As the pandemic has brought home the importance of the global movement for food sovereignty, members are planting and sharing.
By Amelia Nierenberg

Peanut Butter and Ranch Dressing: What Americans Abroad Miss From Home

With virus cases in the United States rising and international travel curtailed, many Americans do not know when they will be able to reunite with home and the comforts they associate with it.
By Valeriya Safronova

EAT

These Rolls Will Change the Way You See Sourdough


Choco pan de coco.
By Tejal Rao

A Colombian Chef Shares His Secret to Better Empanadas

For even better flavor and texture in his masa, J. Kenji López-Alt borrowed a technique from the chef Carlos Gaviria: milling popcorn.


Colombian beef and potato empanadas.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

A GOOD APPETITE

Chewy Meets Crispy in This Summery Salad

This satisfying bowl gets its bite from farro, its crunch from spiced chickpeas, and its sweetness from roasted corn and slivered fennel.


Farro salad with corn and crispy chickpeas.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

This Watermelon Salad Is Meant for Hot Days


You can use any kind of pickled chiles in this refreshing summery dish.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

Let This Blueberry Bundt Cake Pull You Out of Your Baking Rut


You don’t need a special occasion for this showstopping treat, finished with a jewel-toned glaze.
By Melissa Clark

ONE GOOD MEAL

A Food Writer’s Sicilian Pasta Dish — and Tips for Sharing It

Skye McAlpine has made a name for herself serving bountiful meals to large groups of friends. During lockdown, she’s discovered the joy of cooking for just one or two.


McAlpine got the recipe for this pasta dish from a Sicilian friend who had been swearing by it for years.
By Isabel Wilkinson

Make Pizza … On Your Grill


Bear with us. We know this sounds bonkers, but it really does work.
By Amelia Nierenberg

FRONT BURNER

A Dark, Brooding Rum for Your Cocktails


Santa Teresa in Venezuela has been making the liquor since 1796.
By Florence Fabricant

Distilleries Raced to Make Hand Sanitizer for the Pandemic. No Longer.

Even though coronavirus cases have surged again, craft distilleries say the business of making the disinfectant has become more difficult.
By Kellen Browning

WINE SCHOOL

What Is a Great Wine? Verdicchio di Matelica Has Some Ideas

By Eric Asimov

THOSE WE’VE LOST

John Eric Swing, a Filipino-American Community Builder, Dies at 48.


Mr. Swing was a catalyst in the Historic Filipinotown neighborhood of Los Angeles, a new center of food start-ups. He died of complications of the coronavirus.
By John Leland