Monthly Archives: April 2020

Food! Glorious Food!

‘Instead of Coronavirus, the Hunger Will Kill Us.’ A Global Food Crisis Looms.


The world has never faced a hunger emergency like this, experts say. It could double the number of people facing acute hunger to 265 million by the end of this year.
By ABDI LATIF DAHIR

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

The Reclusive Food Celebrity Li Ziqi Is My Quarantine Queen


In isolation, the D.I.Y. fantasy world of the Chinese YouTube star is a dreamy escape, and a lesson in self-reliance.
By TEJAL RAO

Safe Dining? Hard to Imagine, but Many Restaurants Are Trying

Though widespread reopenings may be a long way off, chefs and health officials have begun studying how a post-pandemic restaurant might look.


The chef Pano Karatassos at Kyma, one of the places in Atlanta the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group is planning to reopen soon.
By Kim Severson

VOICES

A Mother, a Pandemic and Scorched Rice


“You have an American amount of rice,” my mother told me as news of the coronavirus intensified. “Go get the biggest bag you can find.”
By LYNN JONES JOHNSTON

‘This Isn’t the Time for Caviar’: A Chef Finds New Flavors in a Pandemic


After the coronavirus lockdown, a chef in Bangkok and his migrant staff started cooking a whole new menu and delivering food to the poor.
By HANNAH BEECH

Samin Nosrat Wants Us to Make Lasagna Together


The “Salt Fat Acid Heat” author has long gathered people around a table. But what will happen when the festivities move to that sometimes-terrible place, the internet?
By SAMIN NOSRAT

The Community Cookbook Is Reborn for a Time of Scarcity and Sharing


Cobbled-together home recipe collections were once the province of church groups and Scout troops, but now they’re uniting Americans of all stripes.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

This Focaccia Isn’t Your Garden-Variety Flatbread

For some, sourdough is the baking king of social media. For others, there are these beautifully decorated focaccia, dotted with vegetables.


Hannah Page, a home baker and high school teacher in Raleigh, N.C., calls herself “the bread fairy.” She’ll leave loaves for friends on their doorsteps.
By Amelia Nierenberg

8 Delicious Ways to Use Your Sourdough Discard

You finally got that starter going. Now, use the discard in delicious baked goods while eliminating waste.


A little sourdough discard was added to these morning glory muffins to give them a pleasant tang.Credit…Erin Jeanne McDowell
By Erin Jeanne McDowell

FROM THE PANTRY

This Larb Couldn’t Be Easier or More Adaptable


Use ground pork or chicken, chopped fish fillets or mushrooms in this herby Thai favorite.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

The Easiest Roast Chicken (and Even Easier Stock)


Master this before-bedtime stock, and you, too, can be one of those cooks who always has it on hand.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY

You Don’t Need a Mixer (Just a Whisk!) for This One-Bowl Shortbread


Melted butter makes this the easiest-ever version of the recipe.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY

Use Any Kind of Ground Meat in This Spicy Meatball


This versatile recipe also gets its sweet, brawny finish from a little bit of marmalade (or just about any jam).
By MELISSA CLARK

FRONT BURNER

Chocolates for Quarantine Teatime


Chocolat Moderne sells bonbons flavored with the tastes of England.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Marmalades Make a Mother’s Day Gift


Josephine’s Feast sells the preserves, in four citrus flavors, in gift boxes or individually.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Most Comforting Chicken


Diana Henry’s one-pot chicken thighs with black beans, rice and chiles is full of flavor, and so satisfying.
By JULIA MOSKIN

AT HOME

What to Cook This Weekend


Cook to transport yourself, whether it’s to the English countryside (scones) or a lodge house in southern Quebec (salted maple pie).
By SAM SIFTON

The Best Way to Freeze Baked Goods


Here’s how to store biscuits, cookies, pie dough and more, so they taste just as good later.
By ERIN JEANNE MCDOWELL

A Beer Lover’s Nightmare: They’re Dumping Draft Brew

As bars and taprooms close, many craft brewers have too much aging beer on their hands. But others are finding new ways to package and sell it.
By JOSHUA M. BERNSTEIN

How to Stock Your Liquor Cabinet


The trick to drawing out your inner bartender while staying home is to improvise and innovate, and above all keep it simple.
By CLAY RISEN

Tina Girouard, Experimental Artist in 1970s SoHo, Dies at 73


She was a founder of Food, an influential artist-run kitchen in Manhattan, and a member of the alternative art space 112 Greene Street.
By RANDY KENNEDY

THOSE WE’VE LOST

José Torres, 73, Restaurateur Beloved of Salsa Stars, Dies


His Joe’s Place was a must for a stop-off after a night of music-making. Mr. Torres died of Covid-19.
By DAVID GONZALEZ

Monday, Monday

Monday was the best goddamned day of April, at least if you were not a snow bunny, and so, of course, it was the day I decided to perform a small operation on my desktop.

Early in the day, I disconnected all the lifelines to the peripherals and wheeled the patient into the bedroom where the morning light was streaming in the window. I carefully prepared the operating area by spreading a clean sheet over the bed, and hoisted the patient onto the sheet. After a bit of exploratory surgery, and collection of parts, I discovered the heart of the beast was no longer in the heart of the beast’s box, so I commenced the first scourge of my office to find out what I had done with it. Eventually, I found it right in front on the desk buried in the geologic eras. After moving the beast’s heart into the motherboard, I realized that I had to find if I had cooler fasteners that would fit on the new motherboard, which meant digging through the many boxes in my junk closet. After filling the room with boxes, I found the box I was looking for only to determine that it did not run with Team Red. But, by then I had uncovered one of my ‘bargains’ — a two-fan radiator that actually played with both Team Red and Team Blue. Unfortunately, it would not fit over the fans in the case. I checked out what our local Micro Center computer store had online, disappointed, I ordered an Arctic radiator and fan from Amazon, and went back to work on the patient discounting a few trips over boxes and junk scattered all over my office.

After disconnecting the several hard drives and the other peripherals, after adjusting the motherboard mounting supports a wee bit, I performed the transplant. I went back to the office with the pump and radiator, a few parts and tons of screws, along with the instructions to assemble the pump to fit on the motherboard over the beast’s heart. It looked to me like the screws were too big, but according to the instructions, they would fit. So, I gamely screwed them through the pump housing and into the metal with the fasteners that would attach it to the motherboard. Once I attached it, I figured the two hoses would hold one end of the radiator up, and I dug the garden zip-ties out of the kitchen to hold up the other end. So far, it’s holding, and the patient is not experiencing any fevers. I did attach the two fans it came with in case the large top-mounted case fan was not enough.

As I was disconnecting and connect the various peripherals, I noticed that the hot-mount 2.5″ double drive bay was missing a Molex connector from the power supply. Could this be why it never worked I thought? One of these days, I’ll find out.

Many motherboard manuals are like cookbooks of old, where everything is described as go to page 10 and make the dish there, then come back here to page 15. Some have cheatsheets that cover the needful, but if this one does, I ignored it. Anyway, I started switching out drive cables since the new motherboard has two more than the old motherboard. This required retrieving more cables from the junk closet. I cursed the people who invented SATA connections, since while the SATA cable locks into place, the SATA power cable does not. So, every time you jostle a drive, or plug in the SATA cable, a power cable slides off. In my case, they were doing it wholesale. Remember this is a beautiful day? I’m eating the whole day away running between my junk closet and the bedroom. At dinner time, I sit outside and eat. and water the bulbs and the daylily area, then return to patch up the patient and wheel it back to the peripherals.

Monday was the best goddamned day of April, at least if you were not a snow bunny, and so, of course, it was the day I decided to perform a small operation on my desktop.

Early in the day, I disconnected all the life lines to the peripherals and wheeled the patient into the bedroom where the morning light was streaming in the window. I carefully prepared the operating area by spreading clean sheet over the bed, and hoisted the patient onto the sheet. After a bit of exploratory surgery, and collection of parts, I discovered the heart of the beast was no longer in the heart of the beast’s box, so I commenced the first scourge of my office to find out what I had done with it. Eventually, I found it right in front on the desk buried in the geologic eras. After moving the beast’s heart into the motherboard, I realized that I had to find if I had cooler fasteners that would fit on the new motherboard, which meant digging through the many boxes in my junk closet. After filling the room with boxes, I found the box I was looking for only to determine that it did not run with Team Red. But, by then I had uncovered one of my ‘bargains’ — a two-fan radiator that actually played with both Team Red and Team Blue. Unfortunately, it would not fit over the fans in the case. I checked out what our local Micro Center computer store had online, disappointed, I ordered an Arctic radiator and fan from Amazon, and went back to work on the patient discounting a few trips over boxes and junk scattered all over my office.

After disconnecting the several hard drives and the other peripherals, after adjusting the motherboard mounting supports a wee bit, I performed the transplant. I went back to the office with the pump and radiator, a few parts and tons of screws, along with the instructions to assemble the pump to fit on the motherboard over the beast’s heart. It looked to me like the screws were too big, but according to the instructions, they would fit. So, I gamely screwed them through the pump housing and into the metal with the fasteners that would attach it to the motherboard. Once I attached it, I figured the two hoses would hold one end of the radiator up, and I dug the garden zip-ties out of the kitchen to hold up the other end. So far, it’s holding, and the patient is not experiencing any fevers. I did attach the two fans it came with in case the large top-mounted case fan was not enough.

As I was disconnecting and connect the various peripherals, I noticed that the hot-mount 2.5″ double drive bay was missing a Molex connector from the power supply. Could this be why it never worked I thought? One of these days, I’ll find out.

Many motherboard manuals are like cookbooks of old, where everything is described as go to page 10 and make the dish there, then come back here to page 15. Some have cheatsheets that cover the needful, but if this one does, I ignored it. Anyway, I started switching out drive cables since the new motherboard has two more than the old motherboard. This required retrieving more cables from the junk closet. I cursed the people who invented SATA connections, since while the SATA cable locks into place, the SATA power cable does not. So, every time you jostle a drive, or plug in the SATA cable, a power cable slides off. In my case, they were doing it wholesale. Remember this is a beautiful day? I’m eating the whole day away running between my junk closet and the bedroom. At dinner time, I sit outside and eat, and water the bulbs and the daylily area, then return to patch up the patient and wheel it back to the peripherals.

Now rumor has it that Windows 10 will adjust and reboot even from a changed motherboard. So when I got the patient plugged in, I hit the start button and the fans began to whirl (at least the ones I’d remembered to plug in), but it wasn’t quite a department store Christmas. After pounding the keys to display the BIOS, I eventually made it to discover that my boot disk was in sixth place, not first, and 1-4 was prime boot territory. So, after setting it to boot, I went to change out the cables, which resulted in the worst of many outcomes — Windows asked for a floppy disk. Who knew it would still do that? After a short period of hairpulling and headdesking, I resorted to the manual and determined that it had a Clear BIOS button, which I then pressed. It fixed the error code that the board had been displaying, and after I set the disk boot order, it started to load Windows. I think I got in, but ended up rebooting and Windows decided it had had enough, and went into repair mode. Since I run tomorrow’s Windows today, I have seen this script before, and after a couple of tries, Windows loads. Of course, it loads without new drivers for the LAN ports or the secondary SATA controller that the DVD players are connected to. (The motherboard comes with a DVD — remember those things — but the usual practice is to surf to the manufacturer’s website and download the latest, hottest drivers. Because it seemed slow on the last computer I built, I decided for some insane reason to copy the DVD over to a USB drive, which I could easily do with my laptop’s three USB hub, and I did. Of course, were I thinking, I could have just put plugged the hub into the patient and ran the goddamned DVD and let it access the internet through the hub’s LAN port, which is what I did after copying the DVD to the USB drive. I stopped the DVD when it was attempting to uninstall the existing Norton to install its own Norton over it, and it was off to the races. Well, OK surf the internetz.

Still to do: replace the cooler, install the right driver for the SATA controller, jigger some of the fans and the cooler pump, and change out some of the SATA cables. I also need to replace the video card with something that does not have a coal boiler, but the boiler helps to keep the three monitors going as well — and a new video card means upgrading the monitors as well. I also have to put more junk away. A Gen4 NVMe drive is also in the future. I can also do a Gen4 video card, but I’m not sure how many are out in the market. They are also the bleeding edge.

Anyway, Monday? I didn’t get out much. The patient survived and has so far stopped rebooting. Of course, I’ve been shutting it down at night. I reinstalled FoldingAtHome. The Cinebench score has gone from the basement to the penthouse, so I can’t blame the computer for not working on pictures and video no more.

Still to do: replace the cooler, install the right driver for the SATA controller, jigger some of the fans and the cooler pump, and change out some of the SATA cables. I also need to replace the video card with something that does not have a coal boiler, but the boiler helps to keep the three monitors going as well — and a new video card means upgrading the monitors as well. I also have to put more junk away. A Gen4 NVMe drive is also in the future. I can also do a Gen4 video card, but I’m not sure how many are out in the market. They are also the bleeding edge.

Anyway, Monday? I didn’t get out much. The patient survived and has so far stopped rebooting. Of course, I’ve been shutting it down at night. I reinstalled FoldingAtHome. The Cinebench score has gone from the basement to the penthouse, so I can’t blame the computer for not working on pictures and video no more.

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Bad Education
NYT Critic’s Pick TV-MA Comedy, Drama Directed by Cory Finley


Hugh Jackman is darkly charismatic as the real-life schools superintendent who admitted to stealing $2 million from his Long Island district.
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Beastie Boys Story
NYT Critic’s Pick TV-MA Documentary Directed by Spike Jonze


Ad-Rock and Mike D share stories and grief in a live documentary directed by Spike Jonze.
By A.O. SCOTT

— Of Possible Interest —

Robert the Bruce
Action, History Directed by Richard Gray


Angus Macfadyen, who first played the medieval Scottish king in “Braveheart,” reprises his role in this introspective historical drama.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Eating Up Easter
Documentary Directed by Sergio Mata’u Rapu


A filmmaker shows the daily environmental struggles of his native home.
By KRISTEN YOONSOO KIM

Circus of Books
Documentary Directed by Rachel Mason


A woman’s documentary on the gay pornography and adult goods shop her parents ran for three decades brims with warm remembrances by those who frequented it.
By TEO BUGBEE

Food! Glorious Food!

Help Is On the Way, Restaurants Are Told. But Will It Work?

Owners of many small, independent restaurants were passed over by a federal loan program. Now they fear that a new round may not solve their problems.
By PETE WELLS

The Food Chain’s Weakest Link: Slaughterhouses

A relatively small number of plants process much of the beef and pork in the United States, and some of them have closed because workers are getting sick.
By MICHAEL CORKERY and DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY

In Poland, Communist-Era Restaurants Are Perfect for the Moment

The simple cafes known as milk bars have regained popularity in recent years. Under lockdown, they’re providing affordable food and the comfort of nostalgia.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

How Coronavirus Infected Some, but Not All, in a Restaurant

A limited study by Chinese researchers suggests the role played by air currents in spreading the illness in enclosed spaces.
By KENNETH CHANG

A Food Snob’s Food Tour Conversion


Michael Ruhlman, the author of best-selling cookbooks and an accomplished cook, didn’t need a guide. Or did he?
By MICHAEL RUHLMAN

FRONT BURNER

More Shelf-Stable Foods From Patagonia


The company has expanded its Provisions line to include pasta, grains and baby food.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Ottolenghi’s Test Kitchen Is Closed. But the Recipes Keep Coming.

Away from their small North London hub, a six-member team still finds a way to share recipes, and feed loved ones.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

EAT

When You Need a Break From Beans, Crab on Toast Is the Answer


After my wife and I both lost our jobs, we diligently conserved our resources — until we didn’t. Then a splurge brought us back to life.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

A Hill of Beans


Pair them with rice, or with pasta, or as part of an avocado salad, or forgo them all together, and head to the grill.
By SAM SIFTON

FROM THE PANTRY

Turn Nearly Anything Into a Meal With This Simple Sauce


Salmon stars in this tonnato, an extremely simple sauce traditionally made with tuna, that lifts rich meat and crisp raw vegetables alike.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY

You’ll Never Guess the Secret Ingredient in This One-Bowl Cake


Spoiler: It’s mayonnaise, but you’ll never taste the tanginess.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY

Add Some Tuna to Your Puttanesca


Throw a can into this classic pasta dish for a little more body.
By MELISSA CLARK

11 New Cookbooks Worth Buying, Even in Quarantine

Our favorite releases of the season, selected by Food reporters and editors from The New York Times.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES

More Melty Cheese

Indulge in small ways, with a creamy, cheesy potato gratin, or choose something bright like salmon with peas and radishes.
By JULIA MOSKIN

This Simple Five-Ingredient Pasta Has Loads of Flavor


You don’t need much to yield a lot of deliciousness — just a creamy base and a willingness to experiment.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

ONE GOOD MEAL

The Galette Recipe One French Creative Director Grew Up On


At his grandmother’s cottage in Brittany, Pierre-Alexis Delaplace of Kerzon would wait, somewhat impatiently, for this savory treat.
By NICK MARINO

Three-Ingredient Cookies, Fresh From Your Pantry


Bake your way to these sweet snacks using ingredients you’re likely to have on hand.
By DANIELA GALARZA

How to Find (and Discuss) Natural Wines

These bottles are made in small lots and are difficult to find. But here are five importers and five American producers to seek out, and some terminology to know.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Nina Balducci, Who Shaped a Famed Grocery Store, Dies at 91

She gave Balducci’s its polish and weathered an operatic family battle over the store’s ownership.


Nina Balducci on the cover of a 1993 catalog for Balducci’s. She helped design the store’s logo and shopping bags and created a successful mail-order business.
By Kim Severson

Sirio Maccioni, Whose Le Cirque Drew Manhattan’s Elite, Dies at 88

Dash, charm and matinee-idol looks helped make Mr. Maccioni an unusual sort of celebrity in New York City’s restaurant scene.


Sirio Maccioni in 1982. His fine dining restaurants in Manhattan drew an international following that included royalty, film stars, jet-setters and socialites.
By William Grimes

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Beyond The Visible – Hilma af Klint




NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, Biography | Directed by Halina Dyrschka
How the rediscovery of a Swedish abstract painter changed the course of art history.
By A.O. SCOTT

Selah and The Spades




NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama | Directed by Tayarisha Poe
New talent behind and in front of the camera elevates a familiar tale of high-school strife.
By TEO BUGBEE

A White, White Day




NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Hlynur Palmason
A man finds coping with his wife’s death hard enough — and then learns she’d been having an affair.
By GLENN KENNY

Butt Boy




NYT Critic’s Pick | Comedy, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Tyler Cornack
A search for missing children leads to a man with a strange impulse in this wildly polarizing film.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

401K and Roth RMDs

If you have a Required Minimum Distribution (RMD) from a 401K or Roth, either inherited or your own, you can apparently skip RMDs in 2020:


‘A temporary waiver of required minimum distributions (RMDs). Generally, when you turn 72 (or 70½ if you reached that age on or before December 31, 2019), you must take an RMD from your IRA, 401(k), 403(b), or other qualified retirement plan account. If you were required to take an RMD in 2020 (either from your own IRA or defined contribution plan account or as a beneficiary taking life-expectancy payments), the CARES Act waives that requirement. How can you benefit?
Because RMDs are calculated on your account value at the end of the previous year—when account values were likely significantly higher than they are in current depressed market conditions—not taking an RMD in 2020 could allow you to avoid withdrawing an inflated amount and paying a bigger tax bill.
A waiver of the 10 percent early withdrawal penalty for retirement account distributions. The CARES Act waives the 10 percent early withdrawal penalty tax normally assessed on pre-age 59½ withdrawals, up to $100,000, across all retirement plan or IRA accounts, if you meet at least one of the following criteria:

· You have been diagnosed with COVID-19.
· Your spouse or dependent has been diagnosed with COVID-19.
· You face adverse financial circumstances arising from COVID-19, including, but not limited to, being quarantined, having work hours reduced, being laid off, or being unable to work because of a lack of childcare.
Further, if you receive a distribution for the reasons above, you may waive the 20 percent mandatory federal tax withholding. You may roll the distributed amount back into your retirement plan or IRA within three years from the date the distribution was taken. If you choose not to return the funds into a qualified account, you will owe taxes on the distributed amount (which also can be repaid over three years).
Increased retirement plan loan maximums. If you are affected by COVID-19; meet one of the criteria above; and your employer allows you to take a loan from your 401(k), 403(b), or other retirement plan account, you may take the lesser of $100,000 or 100 percent of your vested account balance (a significant increase from the 50 percent of your vested account balance, up to a maximum of $50,000, under normal rules). If you take a loan between March 27, 2020, and December 31, 2020, you may delay the loan repayment for up to one year.’
Then again, I ain’t a financial planner nor do I play one on TV.

Food! Glorious Food! — The Quarantine Edition

Dumped Milk, Smashed Eggs, Plowed Vegetables: Food Waste of the Pandemic

With restaurants, hotels and schools closed, many of the nation’s largest farms are destroying millions of pounds of fresh goods that they can no longer sell.
By DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY and MICHAEL CORKERY

The Farm-to-Table Connection Comes Undone

A direct pipeline to chefs that took decades to build has been cut off by the coronavirus, leaving small farmers and ranchers with food they can’t sell.
By KIM SEVERSON

How Native Americans Are Fighting a Food Crisis

As the coronavirus limits access to food, many are relying on customs, like seed saving and canning, that helped their forebears survive hard times.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

Food Workers Say C.D.C. Guidelines Put Them at Greater Risk for Infection

The agency now says “critical infrastructure workers” who may have been exposed to the coronavirus can stay on the job under certain conditions, instead of isolating.
By DAVID WALDSTEIN

A Plan to Reconnect a Town in Quarantine: 10,000 Onions

The pandemic separated my family from our neighbors. Could a network of backyard gardens bring us together?
By C. J. CHIVERS

U.S. Food Supply Chain Is Strained as Virus Spreads

Disruptions are expected in the production and distribution of products like pork, and localized shortages could occur.
By MICHAEL CORKERY and DAVID YAFFE-BELLANY

At the Sourdough Library, With Some Very Old Mothers


Some starters never die, they just get filed away here.

Mr. De Smedt is the curator of the world’s only sourdough library. Located in the flyspeck village of St. Vith, 87 miles southeast of Brussels, the library houses the world’s most extensive collection of sourdough starters, those bubbling beige globs of bacteria and wild yeast — known as “mothers” — that bakers mix into dough to produce flavorful loaves with interestingly shaped holes.


By FRANZ LIDZ

SCRATCH

The Virus Closed Her Bakery. Now She’s Working Nonstop.

By JULIA ROTHMAN and SHAINA FEINBERG

Missing an Ingredient? Here Are Substitutions You Can Use Instead


If you have a well-stocked pantry, you can make almost any dish work.
By Alexa Weibel

Our Best Recipes and Tips for Quarantine Cooking

Here is a regularly updated list of our latest articles — and some older resources — to help you find what you need.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES

FROM THE PANTRY

A Salad for When You’re Out of Lettuce


This starchy grain bowl makes use of those sturdy vegetables in your fridge.
By MELISSA CLARK

How to Cook Now


Feed your family, or just yourself. We have recipes for whatever situation you’re in.
By SAM SIFTON

he Food Expiration Dates You Should Actually Follow

The first thing you should know? The dates, as we know them, have nothing to do with safety. J. Kenji López-Alt explains.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

11 of Our Best Weekend Reads

The enduring appeal of Weird Al. Processed foods are making a pandemic comeback. In praise of quarantine clapping. Dua Lipa. Sandra Lee. And more.
By KALY SOTO

FRONT BURNER

Maida Heatter’s Baking Recipes Remixed

These books, focused on cookies and chocolate, would make a good Mother’s Day gift.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

How to Make the Most of Those Cans of Sardines

Alison Roman’s advice to eat these especially delicious little fishes: Add lots of herbs and something oniony, a little fat and tons of lemon.
By Alison Roman

Enrique Olvera’s Satisfying, Adaptable Vegetable Soup

The chef shares his recipe for a hearty broth-based dish, inspired by the version his grandmother used to make.
By MERRELL HAMBLETON

Enrique Olvera and His Culinary Heirs Have Changed How and What We Eat

The influential chef has reconceived Mexican cuisine, both in his own country and beyond.

Quick, Easy and So Satisfying

A creamy lemon pasta, garlic soup with spinach, a turmeric chicken ready for substitutions: Make meals that comfort.
By JULIA MOSKIN

FROM THE PANTRY

Coconut Macaroons, Two Easy Ways


Make a candylike version with all coconut and an egg white, or use a whole egg and almond flour for a more cakelike result.
By MELISSA CLARK

A GOOD APPETITE

You Don’t Need All-Purpose Flour for This Poundcake


Rice flour and coconut oil make this treat silky and compellingly gentle.
By Melissa Clark

When Life Gives You Lemons, Make 19th-Century Lemon Cake

To stay connected with visitors under stay-at-home orders, the New-York Historical Society is curating a digital collection of archival recipes.


The New-York Historical Society will post a recipe a week from a collection of 19th-century manuscript cookbooks. The first recipe is for lemon cake.
By Amelia Nierenberg

For American Wine Producers, Fear, Uncertainty and Hope

The pandemic has caused drastic cuts in business, forced painful decisions and inspired creative solutions. Still, another vintage is on its way.
By Eric Asimov

Irena Chalmers, 84, Is Dead; Writer Anticipated a Food Revolution


She wrote her first cookbook, “Fondue Cook-In,” to help sell pots. She went on to discover chefs who would become well-known cooking authorities.

She sometimes took a contrarian view of trends. “I think insisting on having a free-range chicken,” she often said, “is like having a free-range boyfriend. You never know where he’s been.”

By KIM SEVERSON

It Я Time

Ma current computer is getting long of tooth, what’s worse, it’s generating a constant string of CLOCK WATCHDOG TIMEOUT errors and crashing. I guess I could try patching the boiler, or adding a few more hamster cages, but even I can read the writing on the wall when it’s written in glowing iridescent ink.

Of course, I keep looking for the best new update, spending hours on YouTube and review sites, and I haz discovered that technology haz moved on. I have a slew of hard drives and three 5.25 bays. Cases are not like that anymore. My case will take one tiny squarish radiator, and is that enough for a new CPU? I’m currently in the Intel camp and am thinking of deserting to the Team Red camp. And in a time o’ plague! Life is just so confusing! Then ma store that I can skip the sales tax closes for Passover! And they do not have my picked-out MB in stock anyway! Besides, who needs a new computer in times o’ plague?

Just like Scrooge McDuck, I hates spending money, but unlike Scrooge McDuck, I haz no money bin I can swim in.

Food! Glorious Food!

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

Is My Takeout Risking Lives or Saving Restaurants?

Online orders and no-contact pickup can be an economic lifeline, but someone still has to make the food.
By TEJAL RAO

‘I Just Need the Comfort’: Processed Foods Make a Pandemic Comeback

Shoppers, moved by nostalgia and hunting for longer shelf lives, are returning to old standbys like Chef Boyardee and Campbell’s soup.
By JULIE CRESWELL

Passover Under Lockdown: Israeli Jews Revise the Rituals

Why is this night different from all other nights? Israelis celebrate a festival of freedom under isolation and shelter-in-place orders.
By ISABEL KERSHNER

SHELTERING

How to Put Your Pantry in Order (and Stop Wasting Food)

Step one: Start by making a mess. Here’s what to do after that.
By TIM MCKEOUGH

The Lure and Lore of Corned Ham, a Salty Slice of North Carolina


Oven roasted corned hams are eye-popping and delicious. The leftover meat keeps for several weeks and can be used in many dishes, a plus in this time of home isolation.
Holidays bring a hankering for a traditional dish that the chef Bill Smith has devoted himself to making popular again.
By BRETT ANDERSON

A GOOD APPETITE

Everything Is Negotiable in This Asparagus Salad


You could use any kind of nuts or semifirm cheese in this nutty, cheesy bright spring salad. You could even lose the asparagus.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY

Garlicky Braised Greens for When That Vegetable Craving Hits


This brothy, flavorful dish may be just what you’re looking for after all those baking projects and beans.
By MELISSA CLARK

FROM THE PANTRY

Let This One-Bowl Poundcake Soothe You


Citrus-scented and speckled with cornmeal, this cake is excellent toasted and buttered for breakfast.
By MELISSA CLARK

15 Wines Under $15: Inexpensive Bottles for Stay-at-Home Drinking


These intriguing wines are sometimes quirky and often unusual. All are delightful, whether with a meal tonight or as gifts to those who could use one.
By ERIC ASIMOV

THOSE WE’VE LOST

Anita Fial, Who Carried the Banner of Exotic Food, Dies at 87


Ms. Fial worked to burnish the reputation of mangoes, avocados, radishes and celery, among other produce.
By SAM ROBERTS

Food! Glorious Food!

TRILOBITES

Neanderthals Feasted on Seafood, Seabirds, Perhaps Even Dolphins

Scientists say that a discovery in a seaside Portuguese cave further challenges popular images of Neanderthals as meat-eating brutes.
By NICHOLAS ST. FLEUR

TALK

David Chang Isn’t Sure the Restaurant Industry Will Survive Covid-19

‘I’m not being hyperbolic in any way: Without government intervention, there will be no service industry whatsoever.’
By DAVID MARCHESE

New Orleans Restaurants, Used to Disasters, Reckon With Something Worse

The dining and bar scene, so central to the city’s identity, emerged strong from Hurricane Katrina. But the coronavirus crisis is different.
By Brett Anderson

Restaurants Find Hope in Delivering Donated Meals to Hospitals

As Americans pitch in to order meals for beleaguered health care workers, the deliveries can be a lifeline for restaurants and food trucks as well as hospitals.
By Pete Wells

These Days, Even a Michelin Star Chef Has to Sell Takeout

Many restaurants had been planning for a future in which delivery made up a sizable share of their business. They just didn’t expect that moment to arrive right now.
By David Yaffe-Bellany

Food Supply Anxiety Brings Back Victory Gardens

Americans were once urged to plant in every patch of available soil — and produced about 40 percent of the nation’s fresh vegetables.
By TEJAL RAO

INSIDE THE OUTBREAK

When Your Restaurant’s Star Dish Is Blamed for Spreading Coronavirus

As restaurants around the world close or retool to enforce social distancing, Hong Kong’s hot pot eateries offer a cautionary tale and some good advice.
By ELAINE YU

FRONT BURNER

An Easter Egg From Beverly Hills


AndSons, from the chocolatier Kriss Harvey, sells colorful chocolate eggs filled with layers of sweet goodness.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

Tempting Pastas and Sauces From Sicily


Bona Furtuna’s line, made in the town of Corleone, includes antipasti and marinara sauces.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER

A Knife to Add Flash to Your Kitchen


A limited-edition tool from Victorinox, the makers of Swiss Army knives, combines a santoku blade with Middle Eastern-style steel.
Only $600!
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The T List: Four Things We Recommend This Week

A postcard from an elusive desert landscape — and more.

EAT

This Broccoli-Dill Pasta Has a Hippie Twist. Your Kids Will Love It.


A quick purée, seasoned with lemon and garlic, is a kind of delicious all-purpose dip, sauce and spread.
By TEJAL RAO

Stress Baking More Than Usual?

Confined to their homes, Americans are kneading dough.
By ALEXANDRA MARVAR

A Few Pantry Staples for a Buttery, Flaky Treat


You don’t need buttermilk on hand to make biscuits: Just about any soured milk works. Melissa Clark can teach you how.
By MELISSA CLARK

One Pot of Rice, Endless Possibilities


This pantry staple can be transformed into so many meals. Here’s how to push it from side dish to star.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

A Dinner-Worthy Grilled Cheese

A basic grilled cheese doesn’t feel like dinner, but it can when you stuff it full of caramelized onions.
By JULIA MOSKIN

An Omelet With an Unexpected Creamy Filling: Tahini

Cheese is the typical omelet filling, but for a similar richness that’s also dairy-free, try tahini.
By MELISSA CLARK

How to Freeze Just About Everything

Wondering how you can make the most of your freezer and your food? Melissa Clark can help.
By MELISSA CLARK

Sardines and Celery: A Perfect Pairing


When you tire of sardines on toast, this crunchy salad is a great alternative for the tinned fish.
By Melissa Clark

Lentils, Rice, Caramelized Onions and a Dinner to Remember


Adapted from a Middle Eastern mujadara, this streamlined take falls somewhere between a soup and a stew.
By Melissa Clark

18 Cookbooks for Comfort

In this uncertain time, here are the cookbooks Food reporters and editors turn to for reliably delicious results.
By MARGAUX LASKEY
March 26, 2020

Alison Roman’s Seder Table

Celebrating Passover, whether it’s alone, virtually or with those in your home, feels more essential than ever. These adaptable recipes can help.
By Alison Roman

A GOOD APPETITE

The Best Matzo? It’s Homemade

This version may not be kosher for Passover, but it’s delicate, airy and quick to make.


This easy matzo has potato chip appeal.
By Melissa Clark

Chicken, Artichokes and a Beloved Moroccan Passover Dish

Esther Soussan Berman passed away in 2010, but her recipe, for golden chicken thighs and fresh artichokes, still has a place on her family’s holiday tables.


Saffron and cinnamon flavor this chicken and artichokes dish.
By Joan Nathan

What to Cook This Weekend


Project recipes are particularly fine for these long days indoors: Make no-knead rolls or focaccia, or take the time to simmer some stock.
By SAM SIFTON

You Deserve a Good Lunch


Step away for half an hour today, if you can, and make yourself a turkey and apple sandwich, an easy pea soup or an omelet, using Jacques Pépin’s technique.
By SAM SIFTON

What to Cook This Week


Pasta with white sausage sauce, a spicy white bean stew, kimchi soup are just a few of the very good things you can make this week.
By SAM SIFTON

THOSE WE’VE LOST

Floyd Cardoz, 59, Dies; Gave American Fine Dining an Indian Flavor


He was the first chef born and raised in India to lead an influential New York City kitchen, at Tabla. He died in the coronavirus pandemic.
By JULIA MOSKIN

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK

Floyd Cardoz Showed How to Honor a Cuisine by Bending It

The chef, who died Tuesday, created Indian-American dishes that surprised and still linger in the memory.
By PETE WELLS