Food! Glorious Food!

‘Oh-Oh, Ay-Ay!’ Riding to an Italian Rhythm on the Transumanza
On the twice-yearly journey to move grazing animals between summer and winter pastures, a writer finds a deep connection to an ancient tradition.
By Maria Russo

An Anthony Bourdain Auction Will Include His Treasured Knife
A year after the celebrity chef’s death, some of his things are going on sale to benefit his family and the Culinary Institute of America.
By Jonah Engel Bromwich

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
California’s Luxury Dining Circuit: Delicious and Dull
The French Laundry, the Restaurant at Meadowood and SingleThread have much in common: amazing precision, sky-high prices and a sedating sort of predictability.
By TEJAL RAO

The James Beard Awards Redraws Its Map
California, Texas and New York will become their own regions for the competition, reflecting shifts in population and dining.
By Kim Severson

Food & Wine Hires a Restaurant Editor Who Wants More Inclusivity
Khushbu Shah aims to expand and vary the legacy magazine’s coverage from a new bureau in Los Angeles.
By Amelia Nierenberg

Maple Butter Roast Chicken Is Everything


Make this sweet-and-salty recipe soon.

A GOOD APPETITE
A Sweetly Savory Kind of Bird
Roasted figs and pears lend a gentle sweetness to roast chicken.


This stunning roasted chicken splits the difference between savory and sweet.
By Melissa Clark

For Libyan Jews, This Spicy Fish Stew Is the Taste of Rosh Hashana
Most of the Jewish families with roots in Libya now live in Italy and Israel. Bright red aharaimi reminds them of home.


Traditionally, Libyan Jews eat a spicy tomato fish dish called aharaimi to celebrate Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year.
By Joan Nathan

EAT
My Mother’s Best (and Only) Recipe: Baked Apples
A workingwoman of the ’50s, my mother did not cook — except for this one perfect dish.


“I remember my mother in a soft cashmere wrap coat, a sequined cocktail dress (that’s what she was wearing when she came home to find that I’d burned down the kitchen) and in Capri pants with kitten heels.”
By Dorie Greenspan

FRONT BURNER
Pomegranate Mandelbrot for Rosh Hashana


By the Way Bakery’s new rimon mandelbrot offers fruitfulness for the Jewish New Year.
By Florence Fabricant

Here’s Your Monday Night Dinner
Make kalpudding, a Swedish dish that’s essentially a meatloaf with caramelized cabbage.
By Sam Sifton

The Ingredients Yotam Ottolenghi Uses Most
He’s been known to push the limits with tahini and lean too heavily on lemons. But don’t try to take away our columnist’s cilantro.


Yotam Ottolenghi’s sweet and spicy ribs use one of his favorite ingredients — cilantro (or coriander, as it’s also known) — a few different ways to deepen flavor.
“There are two ways in which you can push cilantro into the spotlight like that. One method, which many cooks revert to instinctively without even knowing they’re doing so, is pairing it with other members in a large family of ingredients called Umbelliferae. This biological grouping may sound obscure, but carrot, parsnip, celery, parsley, dill and cumin all fall under this umbrella and so, unsurprisingly, go well together.”
By Yotam Ottolenghi

The 13 Best Cookbooks of Fall 2019
Our favorite new books of the season, selected by Food reporters and editors from The New York Times.