Food! Glorious Food!

Reviving a Crop and an African-American Culture, Stalk by Stalk
On the Georgia coast, Maurice Bailey is making sugar cane syrup as a way to preserve a tradition, and the community, of his enslaved ancestors.
By KIM SEVERSON and RINNE ALLEN

Is American Dietetics a White-Bread World? These Dietitians Think So
A new generation of practitioners says the profession pays inadequate attention to different kinds of diets, body types and lives.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

How to Pretend You’re in Dakar Today
The Senegalese capital has an aura that seeps into the soul. Bustling and addictive, it makes you want to stick around.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

FOOD MATTERS
The Appealing and Potentially Lethal Delicacy That Is Fugu
Eating has been a perilous act for most of human history, but Western diners have lately become that much more obsessed with the idea that our meals might destroy us.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Celebrate the Holidays with Cheese Pancakes and a Performance by Taylor Mac
This week, learn to fold paper airplanes, watch a new ballet or bake Emily Dickinson a birthday cake.
By KATHERINE CUSUMANO and EMMA GRILLO

The Most Tender Short Ribs, the Most Satisfying Soup
Left with some spare short ribs, J. Kenji López-Alt made them sing in a Taiwanese beef noodle soup.


The broth is spicy and sweet, and fragrant with warm spices.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

FRONT BURNER
My, What a Sneaky Little Flour


Those looking to add more fiber to their diet have a flour in their corner: Flourish, made with a high-fiber strain of wheat.
Flourish Fiber from the Farm, $22.49 for five pounds, flourish-flour.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
This Cookbook Raises Money for the Ballet


The American Ballet Theater’s dancers and staff have created a community cookbook of cherished recipes.
“ABT Kitchen,” $15, abt.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Panettone, Fresh From Italy


Olivieri, a bakery in northern Italy, ships its feather-light breads to America.
Olivieri 1882, $70 including two-day shipping from Italy, usa.olivieri1882.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Chocolate Crackers and Yule Logs for the Holidays


Hide these festive treats from La Maison du Chocolat and Charbonnel et Walker in the stockings.
Artistic Piece Holiday Cracker, $40, lamaisonduchocolat.com; Yule Logs, $27.95 for a box of eight, surlatable.com/holidays/confections.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
This Austrian Cake Sparkles at the Party


Punch cakes from the Vienna Cookie Company are inspired by punschkrapferl, a liquor-soaked petit four.
Punch cakes, $60 for seven, viennacookiecompany.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Powerfully Flavored Pasta
Mark Bittman’s puttanesca is as easy and satisfying as anything you’ll make all month.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

For Holiday Baking: One Cookie, Three Ways
Baking experts show how to transform simple sugar cookies into dazzling treats.


Cookies from three expert bakers use the same dough recipe to create three variations.
By CHRISTINE CHITNIS

WINE SCHOOL
Among Sparkling Wines, the Other Half Lives Pretty Well
Consumers focus on Champagne, but in the bubbly universe many stars offer distinctive and delicious versions of their own.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Frank Carney, Co-Founder of Pizza Hut, Dies at 82
When he was 19, Mr. Carney and his brother Dan borrowed $600 from their mother to start their business in Wichita, Kan. Before long it became the world’s largest pizza chain.


Frank Carney, right, in 1996, after he began working for the Papa John’s pizza chain. Thirty-eight years earlier, Mr. Carney had been a founder of Pizza Hut.
By GLENN RIFKIN

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Mank
NYT Critic’s Pick | RBiography, Comedy, Drama | Directed by David Fincher
Gary Oldman plays a Hollywood hack with an ax to grind in David Fincher’s reinterpretation of the legend of “Citizen Kane.”


Gary Oldman as Herman Mankiewicz and Amanda Seyfried, in background, as Marion Davies in “Mank,” | Directed by David Fincher.
By A.O. SCOTT

76 Days
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, Drama | Directed by Weixi Chen, Hao Wu, Anonymous
Shot in four Wuhan hospitals during coronavirus lockdown, the film takes a grounded, humane perspective on doctors, nurses and patients.


A scene from the documentary “76 Days,” shot at hospitals in Wuhan early in the coronavirus pandemic.
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

Mayor
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by David Osit
This documentary focuses on the Ramallah mayor Musa Hadid, who leads a city in the global spotlight.


Musa Hadid in the documentary “Mayor.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

— Of Possible Interest —

Minor Premise
Drama, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Eric Schultz
Experiments with consciousness go berserk in Eric Schultz’s lean neurological feature debut.


Sathya Sridharan in “Minor Premise.”
By KRISTEN YOONSOO KIM

Food! Glorious Food!

Singapore Approves a Lab-Grown Meat Product, a Global First
The approval for a U.S. start-up’s “cultured chicken” product is a small victory for the nascent laboratory meat industry. Less clear is whether other countries will follow Singapore’s lead.

A handout photograph showing a dish made with lab-grown chicken developed by Eat Just. In Singapore, it’s cleared as a chicken-nugget ingredient.Credit...Eat Just Inc, via Reuters
A handout photograph showing a dish made with lab-grown chicken developed by Eat Just. In Singapore, it’s cleared as a chicken-nugget ingredient.
By Mike Ives

Is China Laying Claim to Kimchi, Too? Some South Koreans Think So
When a state tabloid suggested that China had set a global standard for kimchi, social media users accused Beijing of misappropriating a Korean culinary staple.

Making kimchi at a Seoul market. Much of the factory-made kimchi eaten in South Korea now comes from China.Credit...Jean Chung for The New York Times
Making kimchi at a Seoul market. Much of the factory-made kimchi eaten in South Korea now comes from China.
By Youmi Kim and Mike Ives

UKRAINE DISPATCH
‘I Have Never Seen So Many Toadstools.’ A Bumper Crop of Mushrooms in Ukraine.
Hunting for mushrooms deep in the forest is the ideal socially distanced pastime.

Viktor Klimov, a professional mushroom hunter, stalking his prey in the forest near the village of Dobrianka, Ukraine, this month.Credit...Brendan Hoffman for The New York Times
Viktor Klimov, a professional mushroom hunter, stalking his prey in the forest near the village of Dobrianka, Ukraine, this month.
By Maria Varenikova and Andrew E. Kramer

SQUARE FEET
As Winter Arrives, Heaters Become a Survival Tool for Businesses
A rise in demand for heating equipment has left some products back-ordered for months, possibly jeopardizing prospects for some businesses of getting through the pandemic intact.


Propane heaters outside La Pecora Bianca in New York.
By C. J. Hughes

7 smart tips for baking better cookies
By Becky Krystal and G. Daniela Galarza

How to Make the Perfect Cookie Box
For years, Melissa Clark has been on a quest to make the most delicious cookie box to gift to loved ones, logging her triumphs and failures along the way. Here’s what she’s learned.
By Melissa Clark

Let This Festive Brandied Fruit Lift Your Holidays
A family tradition inspired Yewande Komolafe’s spiced and steeped fruit mix, which you could add to cocktails and scones, or serve alongside braised lamb.

This dried fruit mix, made with apricots, cranberries, cherries, pears and currants — and a generous amount of brandy — is a taste of the holidays that lasts well beyond them.  Credit...Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
This dried fruit mix, made with apricots, cranberries, cherries, pears and currants — and a generous amount of brandy — is a taste of the holidays that lasts well beyond them.
By Yewande Komolafe

WHAT TO COOK
Dorie Greenspan’s Amazing New Cookie

A French shortbread cookie with a puckery sharp lemon curd and a crunchy meringue top.Credit...Photograph by Heami Lee Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
A French shortbread cookie with a puckery sharp lemon curd and a crunchy meringue top.
By Sam Sifton

What if Cocktail Mixers Were Actually Good?
Prefab drink mixes have long had a bad name, but here come several made with natural ingredients and a craft bartender’s sensibility.

For decades, the word “mixers” evoked industrially manufactured drinks. Newer options use freshly squeezed juice and handmade syrups.Credit...Adam Friedlander for The New York Times
For decades, the word “mixers” evoked industrially manufactured drinks. Newer options use freshly squeezed juice and handmade syrups.
By Robert Simonson

The Discreet Charm of a Flask
A Prohibition-era accessory once again seems practical.

A Prohibition-era flapper and her flask, circa 1926.Credit...GraphicaArtis/Getty Images
A Prohibition-era flapper and her flask, circa 1926. <
By Kate Bolick

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Happiest Season
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Comedy, Romance | Directed by Clea DuVall
Straight expectations sour a lesbian couple’s holidays in this romantic comedy.


Mackenzie Davis and Kristen Stewart in “Happiest Season.”
By TEO BUGBEE

My Psychedelic Love Story
NYT Critic’s Pick | TV-14 | Documentary | Directed by Errol Morris
This Errol Morris documentary explores the relationship between the LSD guru and Joanna Harcourt-Smith, a woman who likened herself to Mata Hari.


Timothy Leary and Joanna Harcourt-Smith in “My Psychedelic Love Story.”
By GLENN KENNY

Zappa
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Alex Winter
The documentary, directed by Alex Winter, portrays the musician and composer Frank Zappa as a sort of noble.


Frank Zappa, in the documentary by Alex Winter.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food! — Happy Thanksgiving Edition

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
This Thanksgiving, It’s Time to Stop Nap-Shaming
In 2020, officeless workers learned to doze off between Zoom calls. Maybe now we can admit that the post-turkey crash is nothing to be ashamed of.
By Pete Wells

Zagat and Michelin Hit Pause on New York City Guides
There will be no New York restaurant guides from the two companies this year, as restaurateurs struggle to keep their businesses open.
By Florence Fabricant

How to Pretend You’re in Hawaii Tonight
With a few easy-to-find items, you can discover the archipelago’s breathtaking biodiversity, savor its flavors and music, even delight in an island-inspired Thanksgiving.


A view of Hāmoa Beach in Maui.
By STEPHANIE ROSENBLOOM

TIMES INSIDER
Exploring Cultures of the World, No Boarding Pass Required
A new series, Around the World at Home, lets readers channel the spirit of a faraway place without hopping on a flight.

Waikiki in Honolulu. A new installment of the series Around the World at Home focuses on Hawaii and includes, among other tips, how to create a lei and feel like you’re in a Maui palm forest.Credit…Michelle Mishina-Kunz for The New York Times
Waikiki in Honolulu. A new installment of the series Around the World at Home focuses on Hawaii and includes, among other tips, how to create a lei and feel like you’re in a Maui palm forest.
By Lauren Reddy

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
Snapshots of Daily Life in a Remote Region of Portugal


The Barroso is one of Portugal’s most isolated areas, known for its rough terrain, abiding agricultural traditions and stunning beauty.
Photographs and Text by André Vieira

Where That Great French Salt Comes From
The Île de Ré has been producing fleur de sel for generations, and the work is still done by hand.


A salt marsh during harvest time in August in Ars-en-Ré, France, on the Île de Ré. Credit…Yann Werdefroy
By Mark Ellwood

SOUTH KOREA DISPATCH
Kimchi Making at Home Was Going Out of Style. Rural Towns to the Rescue.

A family making kimchi during the Kimjang Festival in Goesan county in South Korea. Credit…Jun Michael Park for The New York Times
Families that have grown weary of eating commercial kimchi in big cities have started making pilgrimages to the countryside where they can learn how to prepare it on their own.
By Choe Sang-Hun

FRONT BURNER
A New Cookbook From Jacques Pépin
His foundation, which offers training programs for chefs, offers a digital cookbook, with recipes from Padma Lakshmi, Kwame Onwuachi and more.

Jacques Pépin, center, has released an online cookbook available to members of his foundation.Credit…Ken Goodman
Jacques Pépin, center, has released an online cookbook available to members of his foundation.
Jacques Pépin Foundation, jp.foundation.
By Florence Fabricant

They Welcomed Dozens for Thanksgiving. Now What?
For decades, a couple have been the unofficial parents for many Black students at Notre Dame. This year, that family is scattered, reflecting on the year’s crises.
By Kim Severson

Bring the Apple Cider Doughnuts to You
You may not be able to take a day trip to the apple orchard, but you can still bring those beloved treats home.

You can bake these fall-winter treats in a doughnut pan — or even a muffin tin. Credit…John Kernick for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
You can bake these fall-winter treats in a doughnut pan — or even a muffin tin.
By Erin Jeanne McDowell

3 Brilliant Ways to Transform Leftover Stuffing
Sohla El-Waylly is here for the holiday’s best side, which she griddles into sandwich filling, fries into croutons and simmers into dumplings for soup.


By Sohla El-Waylly

Give Thanks for This Simple Pleasure
Think of these cheesy bread balls in tomato sauce, a kind of deconstructed pizza, as a tribute to the little things, Yotam Ottolenghi writes.

This recipe is simple, communal and comforting.Credit…Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
This recipe is simple, communal and comforting.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

A Designer’s Endlessly Adaptable Nigerian Stew
Niyi Okuboyejo makes his efo riro with turkey and yams, but you should feel free to experiment. It’s a dish, he says, that rewards improvisation.
By Nick Marino

FRONT BURNER
Try a Red Wine From the Nation of Georgia
Lost Eden, a red blend aged in traditional clay amphora, is dark and earthy.


Lost Eden Red Blend, 2018, $19.99, wine.com.
By Florence Fabricant

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Gianni Bernardinello, Baker Who Fed Neighbors Amid Pandemic, Dies at 76
The Milanese baker would leave out baskets of bread for people hit hard economically by the coronavirus pandemic. Now the disease has claimed his life.

A man of many careers, Gianni Bernardinello settled down as a baker. A sign outside his shop over free baked goods read, “To give a hand to those in need, help yourself and think of others too.”Credit…via Bernardinello family
A man of many careers, Gianni Bernardinello settled down as a baker. A sign outside his shop over free baked goods read, “To give a hand to those in need, help yourself and think of others too.”
By Emma Bubola

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Mangrove
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Steve McQueen
The first episode in Steve McQueen’s “Small Axe” anthology dramatizes protest and police brutality in 1960s London.


Shaun Parkes as Frank Crichlow and Letitia Wright as Altheia Jones-LeCointe in “Mangrove,” part of the | Director Steve McQueen’s “Small Axe” anthology of five films.
By A.O. SCOTT

Collective
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Alexander Nanau
The shocking Romanian documentary “Collective” revisits a 2015 fire that killed scores of people and brought down the government.


The newspaper editor Catalin Tolontan in Alexander Nanau’s documentary “Collective,” about the scandals that followed a deadly 2015 fire in Bucharest.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Sound of Metal
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama, Music | Directed by Darius Marder
Riz Ahmed is touchingly credible as a musician who loses his hearing in this unusual drama.


Riz Ahmed in “Sound of Metal.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Born to Be
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Tania Cypriano
This documentary follows Dr. Jess Ting in his work at Mount Sinai’s Center for Transgender Medicine and Surgery.


Dr. Jess Ting with Jordan, a patient, in “Born to Be.”
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

Anu Mosir
Drama | ected by Takeshi Fukunaga
This quietly observed drama follows a teenager living in a community of Ainu people in Hokkaido, Japan struggling to preserve their culture.


Kanto Shimokura in “Ainu Mosir.”Credit…
By NATALIA WINKELMAN

Food! Glorious Food! — Almost Turkey Day?

The Thanksgiving Myth Gets a Deeper Look This Year
For many Native Americans, the Covid-19 toll and the struggle over racial inequity make this high time to re-examine the holiday, and a cruel history.
By BRETT ANDERSON

How to Do Thanksgiving With Less Waste
For environmental advocates, it includes small measures like reusing ingredients, and broader efforts like rethinking our relationship to the holiday.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

TECH TIP
How to Have a Fully Remote Family Thanksgiving
Skipping travel this year to stop the spread of Covid-19? Here’s how to digitally reimagine the holiday, from meal prep to after-dinner activities.
By J. D. BIERSDORFER

Europe Keeps Schools Open, Not Restaurants. The U.S. Has Other Ideas.
Science increasingly suggests classrooms can be kept open safely. But dining rooms pose a different problem.
By SHARON OTTERMAN and ELIZA SHAPIRO

How Does Ina Do It?
Ina Garten, a.k.a. the Barefoot Contessa, has a loyal, diverse and growing fan base that follows her anywhere — even through quarantine and a Thanksgiving lockdown.
By JULIA MOSKIN

This Is Not Your Average Pumpkin Soup
Caramelized onions, apple cider and a touch of curry powder make this simple soup worthy of the Thanksgiving table.

Lidey Heuck’s creamy pumpkin soup. Credit...Yossy Arefi for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)
Lidey Heuck’s creamy pumpkin soup.
By Lidey Heuck

16 Festive Thanksgiving Mains That Aren’t Turkey
You might be skipping turkey this year because it’s too big or just too much work. We’ve got options to get excited about.
1. Simplest Roast Chicken
2. Meatball Toad-in-the-Hole
3. Roasted Mushrooms With Braised Black Lentils and Parsley Croutons
4. Mrouzia Lamb Shanks
5. Meat and Potato Skillet Gratin
6. Roast Chicken With Fennel
7. Vegetarian Mushroom Wellington
8. Mushroom Potpie
9. Roast Pork With Milk
10. Mussakhan (Roast Chicken With Sumac and Red Onions)
11. Creamy White Bean and Fennel Casserole
12. Slow-Roasted Beef
13. Onion Tart
14. Swedish Meatballs
15. Pan-Roasted Duck With Wild Mushrooms
16. Potato-and-Radicchio Tart
By ALEXA WEIBEL

19 Make-Ahead Recipes for Thanksgiving Day
A little planning goes a long way to help a holiday meal come together easily.
1. Spicy Peanut and Pumpkin Soup
2. Celery Salad With Apples and Blue Cheese
3. Lemon-Garlic Kale Salad
4. Everything Parker House Rolls
5. Mashed Potato Casserole
6. Mushroom Bread Pudding
7. Five-Spice Roasted Carrots With Toasted Almonds
8. Green Bean Casserole
9. Roasted Turnips and Winter Squash With Agave Glaze
10. Scalloped Potato Gratin
11. Sweet Potato Casserole
12. French Onion Panade
13. Make-Ahead Gravy
14. Cranberry-Orange Jelly
15. Cranberry-Orange Relish
16. Sweet Potato Casserole Pie
17. Apple Cider Whoopie Pies
18. Apple Pie Bars
19. Pumpkin Layer Cake With Caramel Buttercream
By Alexa Weibel

A GOOD APPETITE
Even the Littlest Helping Hands Can Make Thanksgiving
This year’s scaled-down festivities present the perfect opportunity to start developing kitchen skills.

Crumbling cornbread for stuffing is a great task for kids of any age. Credit...Lucy Schaeffer for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)
Crumbling cornbread for stuffing is a great task for kids of any age.
By Melissa Clark

When Only Homegrown Sweet Potatoes Will Do
For many Southerners, a holiday meal isn’t complete without sweet potatoes direct from the grower.

Although yams and sweet potatoes are interchangeable to many Americans, yams belong to another plant group; most African diaspora yams are large, with fibrous skin and pale white flesh. (During the 1930s, the U.S. Department of Agriculture allowed Louisiana farmers to market the Puerto Rican sweet potato variety as yams, according to Ms. McGreger’s book.)

By NICOLE TAYLOR

Take Hot Chocolate to the Next Level
It’s getting cold and your table might be outside. Here are ways to warm up with adult versions of winter’s favorite drink.


By STEVEN KURUTZ

I failed!

Well! After watching a podcast on the Mayflower and seeing one o’ those New England Ancestry pages go by, I decided to once again check to see that I indeed had no ancestors on that cursed boat of righteousness and religious bigotry, and this time, I failed! Not one, but three! And none through the bastard side of the family either!

Richard More Sr. and Larry Sanderson are both descendants of Hugh (Stafford) de Stafford KG.
Richard and Larry are 9th cousins 13 times removed

Henry Samson and Larry Sanderson are both descendants of Edward (Despenser) le Despenser KG.
Henry and Larry are 8th cousins 14 times removed (Uncertain)

Agnes (Cooper) Tilley and Larry Sanderson are both descendants of Edward (Despenser) le Despenser KG.
Agnes and Larry are 7th cousins 15 times removed (Uncertain)

But, I gotta ask, is going back to the 1350s too far to fish for ancestors? I mean, that’s what ancestors are, isn’t it? Dead, gone, and lost in the past?

Gosh! I feel just like the Daughter In Law Elect!

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Fireball: Visitors from Darker Worlds
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Werner Herzog, Clive Oppenheimer
Apocalyptic comets, complicated math, ancient rituals, eccentric scientists: Werner Herzog and Clive Oppenheimer’s new documentary has it all.


A scene from “Fireball: Visitors From Darker Worlds,” Directed by Werner Herzog and Clive Oppenheimer.
By GLENN KENNY

Ammonite
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Biography, Drama, Romance | Directed by Francis Lee
Kate Winslet’s fossil hunter and Saoirse Ronan’s convalescent embark on a forbidden seaside romance.


Kate Winslet and Saoirse Ronan in “Ammonite.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Monsoon
Drama, Romance | Directed by Hong Khaou
Henry Golding plays a man who returns to the Vietnam of his childhood in Hong Khaou’s thoroughly personal drama “Monsoon.”


A scene from “Monsoon,” written and | Directed by Hong Khaou.
By BEN KENIGSBERG