Category Archives: Food

Food! Glorious Food!

Team Steady acquires eyesore at Franklin and Lyndale, looks to revitalize it
Dan Netter

HEADWAY
How Free School Meals Went Mainstream
Over the past decade, many more schools started to offer free meals to all children, regardless of family income.
By Susan Shain

POLICING & JUSTICE
Here’s what you need to know about the Feeding Our Future trial as it enters its fifth week
The Feeding Our Future trial could conclude at the end of May or in mid-June.
by Joey Peters

How Wild Rice Forecasts Climate Change
Manoomin, a crop vital to the Indigenous peoples of the Upper Midwest, has been threatened in recent years. But careful stewardship is helping to bring it back.
By Kevin Noble Maillard

T 25
The 25 Essential Pasta Dishes to Eat in Italy
Two chefs, one cookbook author, a culinary historian and a food writer made a list of the country’s most delicious meals, from carbonara in Rome to ravioli in Campania.
By DEBORAH DUNN, VICKY BENNISON, MARIANNA CERINI, ROBYN ECKHARDT, LAUREL EVANS, KRISTINA GILL, ANDREW SEAN GREER, LEE MARSHALL, ELIZABETH MINCHILLI, MARINA O’LOUGHLIN, KATIE PARLA, RACHEL RODDY, ERIC SYLVERS, LAURA MAY TODD and ENEA ARIENTI

A Dreamy Bean Dip in Under 30 Minutes
Topped with deeply browned onions, this snack is as simple or complex as you make it.


By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

THE POUR
Despite War, Ukrainian Wines Are Finding a Global Audience
These bottles, reflecting thousands of years of winemaking history and a fresh wave of energy, are now arriving in the U.S.


Sergiy Klimov, an author and ambassador for Ukrainian wines, in Kyiv. He says the history of winemaking in the region stretches back 6,000 years.
By Eric Asimov

Jasper White, Chef Who Lifted New England Cuisine, Dies at 69
At Restaurant Jasper in the North End of Boston, and later with a small chain of family-friendly seafood establishments, he focused relentlessly on regional ingredients.


Jasper White in 2007 at his Summer Shack restaurant in Cambridge, Mass., one of three in a chain. His signature dish was pan-roasted lobster.
By Julia Moskin

Food! Glorious Food!

Advice for picky eaters: Liking a variety of foods linked with brain health
Rather than focusing on specific diets, the scientists examined the link between the foods individuals liked and disliked and their cognitive health.
By Teddy Amenabar

Dozens of Red Lobster Restaurants Are Auctioning Off Equipment
The seafood chain has been losing money for years. The liquidator behind the auction said more than 50 of its U.S. locations had closed.
By MIKE IVES

Mid-May Means Maximalist Asparagus
My recipe for seared asparagus with cashews is just the thing when you want a pan full of punchy, crunchy additions.


By MELISSA CLARK

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
An Issue All About Pasta and What It Means to Eat It
The dish, in all its many forms, has become synonymous with Italy’s culture.
By HANYA YANAGIHARA

How a ‘Strange,’ ‘Evil’ Fruit Came to Define Italy’s Cuisine
When tomatoes first arrived in Europe 500 years ago, they were considered dangerous. Then in Naples they gave rise to pasta al pomodoro.
By LIGAYA MISHAN and ANTHONY COTSIFAS

What Is Italy’s Most Prized Stuffed Pasta?
Each region could well argue for its own, but one may have the strongest case.
By DAWN DAVIS and SHARON RADISCH

A GOOD APPETITE
This Easy Pasta Doubles Up on Eggs
Speedy, savory and pantry-friendly, this dish celebrates buttery egg noodles by topping them with sour cream, scallions and runny eggs.


A take on lokshen mit kaese, this jammy egg pasta is full of brightness from fresh herbs.
By Melissa Clark

This Impressive Cake Has Many Layers
Strawberry cake, a Southern staple, is full of meaning.


By LISA DONOVAN

THE POUR
10 Terrific 2022 Beaujolais to Drink Now, or in a Few Years
Beaujolais, and its prices, are not what they used to be. Instead of bemoaning what has been lost, the wines today ought to be celebrated.


By Eric Asimov

Food! Glorious Food!

What Is ‘Queer Food’? A Conference Explores (and Tastes) Some Answers.
The pastry chef Anna Salzman brought her homemade sugar cookies for her workshop, “These Cookies Are Going to Change Your Life: An Introduction to Self-Expression Through Pastry Recipe Experimentation,” at the Queer Food Conference at Boston University.
By Erik Piepenburg

Olive oil use associated with lower risk of dying from dementia
An observational study has found that regular olive oil consumption may have cognitive health benefits.
By Teddy Amenabar

Walnuts Recalled From Natural Food Stores After E. Coli Outbreak
The outbreak linked to shelled organic walnuts distributed by Gibson Farms has sickened 12 people and hospitalized seven in California and Washington State, federal officials said.
By JOHNNY DIAZ

Food! Glorious Food!

One in Five Milk Samples Nationwide Shows Genetic Traces of Bird Flu
There is no evidence that the milk is unsafe to drink, scientists say. But the survey result strongly hints that the outbreak may be widespread.
By Emily Anthes and Noah Weiland

Maui in 36 Hours
By Shannon Wianecki Photographs by Michelle Mishina Kunz

How to use up a whole head of lettuce without making salad
Char it, grill it, even soupify it – our panel of cooks lets us in on secret ways to enjoy lettuce
Anna Berrill

What makes Korean gochujang any different from other chilli pastes?
Gochujang is sweet, spicy, fruity, savoury, umami and you can eat it as it is, in dips or on toast. Our panel pick a variety of ways to enjoy it
Anna Berrill

All In on Aloo Chicken
This shortcut version of a traditional Punjabi chicken and potato stew uses boneless chicken pieces and cashew butter for a brilliant dinner.


By Mia Leimkuhler

How Did Black Forest Cake Become the World’s Favorite Dessert?
Dessert lovers from Chile to Pakistan to Fiji claim it as a national treat. How did it get there from the woods of Germany?


The cake, long an adopted favorite in many countries, is more popular than ever — except perhaps in Germany.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

A GOOD APPETITE
The Best Ways to Cook Asparagus
You don’t just have to roast those stalks. These three easy techniques can bring out the delicious best from the spring favorite.


Broiling, pan-searing and sautéing each bring out the best in asparagus.
By Melissa Clark

Why Does Day Drinking Feel Different?
A buzz in the sun can hit harder than dinnertime drinks. Experts shed light on the science.
By Dani Blum

How an Ex-N.B.A. Player Is Diversifying Wine One Sip at a Time
As corporate diversity efforts fade out, Channing Frye and his Chosen Family Wines have taken an unpretentious grassroots approach, bringing wine to communities of color.
By Eric Asimov

Food! Glorious Food!

36 HOURS
Munich


The statue of Bavaria, the female personification of the southern German state, looks over the expansive Theresienwiese, the site of the annual Oktoberfest beer festival.
By A.J. Goldmann

WHERE TO EAT
The 25 Best Restaurants in Austin Right Now
There’s plenty of barbecue and Mexican — as you’d expect — but also world-class Japanese, Korean and more. Comments welcome, as always.
By PRIYA KRISHNA and BRETT ANDERSON

No, Your Spaghetti Doesn’t Have to Be al Dente: 5 Pasta Myths, Debunked
A veteran food journalist settles some long-simmering disputes on a slippery subject.
By Julia Moskin

Could Eating Less Help You Live Longer?
Calorie restriction and intermittent fasting both increase longevity in animals, aging experts say. Here’s what that means for you.
By Dana G. Smith

The Best Fish Is Also the Most Local. Why Is It So Hard to Find?
Seafood caught in nearby waters has long been left out of the farm-to-table movement. But these people have set out to get it into stores and restaurants.
By MELISSA CLARK

With a Fresh Look and Recipes, Manischewitz Courts a New Generation
The 136-year-old company’s products have been staples in American Jewish households for generations. After a major rebranding, the matzo ball soup comes with merch.


A new brand identity for Manischewitz leans heavily on a shade of orange inspired by its matzo ball soup.
By REMY TUMIN

Carbonara Ramen
With its bright pink packaging and spicy contents, these Korean-made instant ramen packs are going viral online and flying off shelves.


introduced in 2017, Samyang Food’s buldak carbonara ramen capitalized on the company’s already popular spicy ramen.
By Eleanore Park

A New Gochujang Pasta Has Entered the Chat
Alexa Weibel’s gochujang pasta balances the red chile paste’s pungency with sweet shrimp and juicy cherry tomatoes.


By Melissa Clark

This chef wants to help you cook ‘misunderstood’ vegetables


Becky Selengut at the University District Farmers Market in Seattle.
By Rebekah Denn

Behind a Vegan Chef’s Holistic Empire, an Ugly Reality
Matthew Kenney, one of the most famous names in plant-based cuisine, has left a trail of burned investors, bounced paychecks and graphic text messages.


Matthew Kenney, shown here in a 2017 photo, is one of the world’s best-known vegan chefs. Seventeen of his restaurants have closed since late 2021.
By Brett Anderson

That other grain — rice: https://youtu.be/1ivJsV1A5oU?si=XA3mx5PNsFzPE-Yi

Can there be delish dessert with less sugar? Absolutely, say these chefs
We don’t have to reflexively use refined sugar to sweeten. Dates often do the trick – in a way that’s healthier for us and the planet
Caroline M Saunders

Can a Brewery Make Good Wine? These Beer Makers Say Yes.
In an effort to reach an increasingly diverse customer base, brewers are turning over some of their equipment to producing wine.

A man and a woman hold up glasses of wine. Colorful light refracted through the wine glasses shine on their faces.
Fermenting fruit for sour ales inspired Joe and Lauren Grimm, the married owners of Grimm Artisanal Ales in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, to start a sister winery, Physica Wines, which released its first vintages last year.
By Joshua M. Bernstein

Food! Glorious Food!

WHERE TO EAT
The 25 Best Restaurants in Boston Right Now
It’s not just seafood and Italian. There’s great Vietnamese, omakase, Peruvian and even bagels worth seeking out. (Don’t worry, there’s also great seafood and Italian.) We’ll see you in the comments.
By KEVIN PANG, PRIYA KRISHNA and BRIAN GALLAGHER

A Radicchio Salad for People Who Don’t Think They Like Radicchio
The Danish chef Frederik Bille Brahe shares the recipe for the star dish at his newly reopened Copenhagen cafe, Apollo Bar & Kantine.


By Gisela Williams

How to Make Frozen Shrimp Even Faster (and More Delicious)
You’re 20 minutes and a few simple steps from a fresh spring stir-fry built from a freezer staple.

Two blue bowls filled with rice, shrimp and asparagus sit against a pink background.
Placing frozen shrimp under running water, then rubbing them with salt, helps keep them snappy.
By Genevieve Ko

2 Simple Cocktails for Lemon Lovers
Get ready for summer with homemade hard lemonade and the Sgroppino, an icy Italian favorite.


Lemon is an easy way to balance cocktails, as in this hard lemonade that’s both reminiscent of and far removed from the six packs of yore.
By Rebekah Peppler

Food! Glorious Food!

36 HOURS
36 Hours in San Juan, Puerto Rico
Bar-hop in an old quarter, explore a street splashed with murals and fly kites on the lawn of a fortress in this Caribbean capital.
By LUISITA LOPEZ TORREGROSA

WHERE TO EAT
The 25 Best Restaurants in Chicago Right Now
We scouted the city’s vast food scene, from stellar hot dogs and renowned Italian beefs to refined tasting menus. (And we’re here for your comments.).
By KEVIN PANG, PRIYA KRISHNA and BRIAN GALLAGHER

Yes, You Can Wash Cast Iron: 5 Big Kitchen Myths, Debunked
A veteran food journalist digs into some common misconceptions about salting pasta water, browning meat and more.
By JULIA MOSKIN

Asparagus Season Is Fleeting. This Easy Recipe Is Forever.
After the heaviness of winter, this miso-infused dish from Yotam Ottolenghi is a breath of fresh air.


By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

Where to Drink Wine in Chicago
Great wine lists abound in this fascinating city. Here are eight places with distinctive lists that stand out.
By ERIC ASIMOV

The Bumpy Gourd That’s Winning Over Bartenders
In bars from Hong Kong to Vancouver, the medicinal tang of bitter melon is making its way onto drinks menus.
By BECKY COOPER

10 Red Wines to Drink Now: Austria Edition
There’s more to Austrian wines than grüner veltliner. Its reds range from juicy and refreshing to satisfyingly complex.


Many of Austria’s red wines are made with blaufränkisch or zweigelt grapes.
By Eric Asimov

Food! Glorious Food!

36 HOURS
36 Hours in Cape Town
The spectacular South African city is shedding its Eurocentric identity and emerging as a culturally rich African hub.
By JOHN ELIGON

Ready, Set, Garçon! Paris Waiters Race as Storied Contest Returns
Contestants rushed through the streets with croissant-laden trays in a moment for the French capital to showcase its cafe culture ahead of the Summer Olympics.
By AURELIEN BREEDEN

An Easter Loaf Baked With Fruit, Spices and Caribbean Sun
This classic Jamaican treat is bold, bright and vibrant, and central to the holiday.

An overhead image of a loaf on a platter, partly sliced to show its insides full of dried fruit.
At Easter, Jamaican spice bun gets a lift from raisins and cherries.
By Brigid Washington

A GOOD APPETITE
The Egg Dish You Need to Make Right Now
A fragrant mash-up of shakshuka, eggs in purgatory and egg curry, this easy one-pan recipe can be made with pantry ingredients you probably already have on hand.

An overhead image of eggs tucked into a bright red, tomato-based sauce, scattered with herbs.
This heady, aromatic meal goes well alongside toast or nestled on a bed of rice.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
Learn ‘Modernist’ Bread Making Basics With This Free Online Course
Peruse vintage home goods from Provence, pick up chocolate-dipped matzo and more food news.


By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Food! Glorious Food!

Belgium or Brooklyn? 5 Bold New Places to Eat in Brussels.
Exciting young chefs wielding a palette of spices from places like Korea, Latin America and Morocco are turning the capital of Europe into a culinary upstart.
By ALEXANDER LOBRANO

An Old Trick to the Crispiest Tofu
Why fry when you can freeze?


Freezing, then roasting tofu yields a crisp result without deep frying.
By Eric Kim

Margaret Grade, Whose California Inn Was Beloved by Stars, Dies at 72
Her Manka’s Inverness Lodge drew actors and writers who dined at Ms. Grade’s farm-to-table restaurant and reveled in her eccentric flair.


Margaret Grade, the owner of Manka’s Inverness Lodge in Inverness, Calif., in 2011. “I didn’t know the term ‘working capital,’” she said of her early days as an innkeeper, “and as a result I had none.”
By KIM SEVERSON

Serge Raoul, Whose SoHo Bistro Glittered With Stars, Dies at 86
Raoul’s, which he founded, was a celebrity magnet and a neighborhood institution in the 1970s and ’80s. But he had never planned on a life in the restaurant business.


Serge Raoul outside his SoHo restaurant, which opened in 1975. A filmmaker by trade, he had set out to find and run a restaurant where his younger brother could be the chef.
By PENELOPE GREEN