Category Archives: Food

Food! Glorious Food!

Cooks Turned Instagram Into the World’s Greatest Takeout Menu
During the pandemic, entrepreneurial chefs have reshaped food culture across the country with tiny, homegrown pop-ups that thrive on social media.
By TEJAL RAO

How America’s Food System Could Change Under Biden
New school meal standards? Help for small farmers? Maybe, but first the new administration has to deal with hunger, food safety and a diminished U.S.D.A.
By KIM SEVERSON

FRONT BURNER
A Taste of Carnival in New Orleans
The parades are canceled and visitors discouraged, but celebrate the season with a king cake shipped to your door.


Brennan’s is sending king cakes nationwide this Carnival season.
Brennan’s King Cakes, $20 plus shipping, brennansneworleans.com/events/kingcakesbybrennans;

Mardi Gras in a Box, $135 plus shipping, bayoubakeryva.com/mardi-gras-box.
By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
The Impermanence of Beauty
A new cookbook from the restaurant Kajitsu in the Murray Hill neighborhood of Manhattan highlights the intricacies of a vegan-style of Japanese cooking.


“Kajitsu: A Shojin Restaurant’s Season in the City” (FUKA Honten, $90), kitchenartsandletters.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Anita Lo Teaches a Dumpling Class for Lunar New Year
The chef will demonstrate how to make pork-and-shrimp dumplings on the website 100 Pleats.


Anita LoCredit…
Lunar New Year Dumpling Class, Feb. 12, 6:30 to 7:45 p.m., $49.99 per device, 100pleats.com/group.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Savor Soup Made From Scratch
With this foundation of vegetables and water, delicious, homemade soup doesn’t have to be complicated. Adding personality is up to you.


Carrot-Ginger soup
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

EAT
Treat Yourself to a Parisian Aperitif That Is Easy to Make at Home
In France, savory cakes salé are served as a light nibble before dinner. They’re remarkably versatile and come together in a snap.


By DORIE GREENSPAN

A GOOD APPETITE
It’s Casserole Season. For That, There’s Polenta Lasagna.
Thoroughly miserable weather calls for thoroughly cozy dishes, preferably covered in mozzarella.


Instead of sheets of pasta, this lasagna has layers of polenta.
By MELISSA CLARK

The Crispiest, Creamiest Vegan Pasta
With just a little effort, this no-waste creamy leek pasta delivers a ton of texture and flavor.


The leek greens are boiled and then puréed into a sauce for this pasta.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

Food! Glorious Food!

LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION
I Recommend Eating Chips
When our horizons are narrow, junk food — shelf-stable, reliably flavored and yet endlessly unique — offers us a taste of infinity.
By SAM ANDERSON

How High-End Restaurants Have Failed Black Female Chefs
Training and advancement as a chef can be hard to find in American fine-dining restaurants, according to Black women who have tried.
By Korsha Wilson

EAT
The Case for Stewed Tripe
There’s abundant offal to be had at the supermarket, and this spicy, slurpable dish is exactly how you should cook it.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

SHOPPING GUIDE
Shopping for Kettles
It’s not just for boiling water — so choose something with a little style.


When you’re buying a kettle, “look at it as art, as well as a functional element,” said Sarah Blank, a kitchen designer in Greenwich, Conn. (The Corvo EKG Electric Kettle is $149 at Fellow.)
By TIM MCKEOUGH

A GOOD APPETITE
This Spicy White Bean Soup Is a Poem in a Pot
Filled with winter greens, savory beans and just a little bit of turkey, this piquant soup is both hearty and light.

Lemony white bean soup with turkey and greens.
Lemony white bean soup with turkey and greens.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
An Online Lesson in Olive Oil
The Museum of Food and Drink in Brooklyn hosts a discussion, with experts from Tuscany and Calabria, Italy.
Food for Thought: First Pressed, an Olive Oil Exploration presented by MOFAD and the Greene Space, Jan. 25, 8 to 9:30 p.m., $15 or $65 including a tin of olive oil (limited supplies), mofad.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Dream of France, Through Recipes


“Plat du Jour,” a new cookbook by Susan Herrmann Loomis, includes seasonally focused recipes like beef bourguignon.
“Plat du Jour: French Dinners Made Easy” by Susan Herrmann Loomis (Countryman Press, $30).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
The Easiest Paella Comes From a Kit


Meg Grace Larcom, the chef of the Boqueria restaurants, teaches a virtual paella class next month, and it includes a ready-to-make meal kit.
Boqueria Paella Kit and class, $150, includes shipping; $100 without the class, order by Feb. 18 for national delivery; fully cooked paella for local pickup or delivery, with seafood, vegetables or chicken and chorizo, $24 to $48, depending on the variety and size, boqueriarestaurant.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
The Tea’s the Thing


A new tea blend from Harney & Sons raises money for Shakespeare’s Globe in London.
A Midsummer Night’s Tea, 20 sachets, $12, 800-832-8463, harney.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

A Foolproof Path to Dinner, by Way of Korea
J. Kenji López-Alt puts his fridge odds and ends to work in crunchy, savory, wildly adaptable jeon.


This sauerkraut jeon is perfect for busy weeknights.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

FRONT BURNER
A New Cassis to Sip or Mix


Current Cassis, from a producer in Greene County, N.Y., is less syrupy than French crème de cassis.
Current Cassis, $28 for 375 milliliters, upstreamwine.com, currentcassis.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Thomas Verdillo, 77, Dies; Restaurateur Went from Red Sauce to Blue Ribbon
He put a refined twist on traditional Italian-American cooking at his South Brooklyn restaurant, Tommaso. He died of complications of Covid-19.


Thomas Verdillo was the owner, head chief, sommelier and chief tenor at his restaurant, Tommaso, in Brooklyn.
By GLENN RIFKIN

Food! Glorious Food!

Voices From the Front Lines of America’s Food Supply
Eleven workers, from the factories and farms to the highways and supermarkets, tell how they got themselves — and us — through a catastrophic year.

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
From Toxic Chefs to Covid, Restaurant Workers Deserve Better
A former Momofuku employee’s account of a rage-fueled workplace is an all-too-familiar story. But it raises questions about how we treat restaurant staffs in the Covid era.
By PETE WELLS

What’s the First Thing You Will Do When the Pandemic Ends?
We put that question to readers and received more than 800 responses. Here are some of the highlights.
By SARA ARIDI

Some Covid Survivors Haunted by Loss of Smell and Taste
As the coronavirus claims more victims, a once-rare diagnosis is receiving new attention from scientists, who fear it may affect nutrition and mental health.
By RONI CARYN RABIN

BANGKOK DISPATCH
Conjuring Up the World Through the Sense of Taste
Housebound because of the pandemic, an international correspondent finds a way to travel the globe in her kitchen.


Nukazuke pickles at the Nishiki Market in Kyoto, Japan.
By HANNAH BEECH

A Shrimp Creole for Our Times
The dish revels in improvisation, making it perfect for these tumultuous, unpredictable months.


By VALLERY LOMAS

Albert Roux, Chef Who Brought French Cuisine to London, Dies at 85
Mr. Roux and his brother, Michel, opened Le Gavroche in the late 1960s, raising the level of fine dining in the city and offering a training ground for some of the restaurant industry’s future stars.

Albert Roux in an undated photo. Le Gavroche, the restaurant he opened with his brother, Michel, in 1967, is credited with bringing fine French cuisine to London.
Albert Roux in an undated photo. Le Gavroche, the restaurant he opened with his brother, Michel, in 1967, is credited with bringing fine French cuisine to London.
By Christine Hauser

Food! Glorious Food!

The Most-Read Food Stories of 2020
Readers turned to the Food section for advice on quarantine cooking, expiration dates and comfort food — lots of comfort food.
By SARA BONISTEEL

Remembering the Restaurants America Lost in 2020
This has been a harrowing year. From fine-dining trailblazers to longtime neighborhood favorites, we commemorate just some of the many places that had to close their doors forever.

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Before They Closed, Restaurants Opened Doors for Us
Ligaya Mishan counts the many ways she misses eating out, and the lessons it taught her about the world and its possibilities.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Is Dairy Farming Cruel to Cows?
A small group of animal welfare scientists is seeking answers to that question. Facing a growing anti-dairy movement, many farmers are altering their practices.
By ANDREW JACOBS

GOOD QUESTION
Will My Popcorn Explode?
The odds that all of your popcorn kernels will pop simultaneously aren’t zero. Maybe think instead of the multiple lotteries you’re more likely to win.
By RANDALL MUNROE

Road to Recovery
Grocery trends: Fewer new products, but more changes in supermarkets and shopping
By Cara Rosenbloom

With a Fortifying Soup, Haitians Share Their Pride in Independence
Even in the pandemic, they’ll celebrate Jan. 1 by doling out soup joumou, a dish defined by national and familial traditions.


Soup joumou is traditionally made with squash, beef, pasta and assorted vegetables. This version, from the New York author Cindy Similien, includes handmade dumplings.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

FRONT BURNER
Green Chutney From a Minneapolis Family Recipe
The sisters Sheilla and Yasameen Sajady turned the cilantro chutney made by their mother, Fatima, into a business.


Maazah Chutneys and Aioli, $8.99 for eight ounces, maazah.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Ending 2020 With a Sweet Bit of Release
The hot chocolate bomb is a tasty metaphor for a pent-up year.


By HANNAH SELINGER

Voraciously
If you want to see 2020 go up in flames, start with these 3 recipes
By G. Daniela Galarza

8 sweet and savory shortbread cookies to pair with tea, coffee or wine
By G. Daniela Galarza

FRONT BURNER
A New Source for Alcohol-Free Libations
Chris Becker, a former technology consultant, has about 170 nonalcoholic beers, wines and spirits on his website, Better Rhodes.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Indulge in Some Hot Cocktails
Festive and full of good cheer, these warm drinks will bring comfort to cold nights ahead.


The Winter and Smoke combines Scotch whisky and Lapsang Souchong leaf tea.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Smaller bowl, same punch: Scaling down New Year’s drinks for one or two

From left: Pomegranate Fizz, Stocking Clementine and Pear-tridge in a Chai Tea, individual punchbowl cocktails.
From left: Pomegranate Fizz, Stocking Clementine and Pear-tridge in a Chai Tea, individual punchbowl cocktails.
By M. Carrie Allan

Food! Glorious Food — The Too Close to Christmas Edition

It’s Peak Season for Tamales in Los Angeles
Big tamaladas are canceled this year, but many of the city’s tamaleras press on because tamales, along with the cultures and microeconomies they sustain, are essential.


At her outdoor kitchen in Montebello, Calif., Claudia Serrato and her family make tamales with blue corn and braised bison.
By TEJAL RAO

See the Beauty of Tamales de Frijol Being Made
Alfonso Martinez of Ponco’s Tlayudas, a Los Angeles pop-up, demonstrates how to make tamales de frijol
By GENEVIEVE KO

How Will We Eat in 2021? 11 Predictions to Chew On
Meal kits from your favorite restaurant, snacks that help you sleep and other ways the food world may respond in a year of big changes.
By KIM SEVERSON

Five Kwanzaa Celebrations Around the Country
For many Black Americans, the holiday is a time for bonding, joy and repose. The Times visited five households to see how people cook and gather, engage and reflect.
By NICOLE TAYLOR, NYDIA BLAS, CELESTE NOCHE, BRIAN PALMER and TIMOTHY SMITH

These Bacon and Eggs Practically Cook Themselves
A big holiday breakfast is great — unless you’re the one stuck making it. This sheet-pan recipe is the solution.


By GENEVIEVE KO

Reclaiming the Tiki Bar
Tiki bars are a beverage industry mainstay — with a painful and underexamined past. Can the format be repaired?
By SAMMI KATZ and OLIVIA MCGIFF

Henry Haller, Chef for Five Presidents, Dies at 97
He had the high-level skills necessary for the job but also a welcome flexibility, allowing him to thrive in the, well, pressure-cooker that is the White House.


Henry Haller preparing for the White House wedding reception of Lynda Bird Johnson, President Lyndon B. Johnson’s oldest daughter, in 1967. Johnson was the first of five presidents Mr. Haller served.
By GLENN THRUSH

THE LIVES THEY LIVED
Cecilia Chiang Lost Everything in China, and Built It Back in California
She twice escaped war in China, and eventually landed in an America that was hungry for a new kind of Asian cuisine.


By JADE CHANG

Food! Glorious Food!

Opinion
My 50-Pound Bag of Flour Is Gone. My Sanity Remains.
Turns out, all I needed to survive lockdown was sourdough.
By Farhad Manjoo

In Sweden, Infections and Calls for a Lockdown Are Rising
The country has been keeping restaurants and bars open, trying not to let the pandemic disrupt life. But the second wave is forcing the authorities to reconsider their approach.
By Thomas Erdbrink and Christina Anderson

A Deeper, Darker Look at James Beard, Food Oracle and Gay Man
A new biography traces the influence he wielded as a writer and the pain he endured for his sexuality in an unwelcoming world.


James Beard in his Greenwich Village kitchen in 1964, the year his memoir, “Delights and Prejudices,” was published. He wrote extensively about his childhood and food memories, but never publicly acknowledged that he was gay.
By JULIA MOSKIN

Make A DIY Seltzerator
With our constant need to hit ‘refresh’ right now, sparkling water is in high demand. Here’s how to save money and the planet by making it yourself.
By MEREDITH PAIGE HEIL

EAT
Your New Favorite Condiment: Salsa Macha
This chunky Mexican chile oil can make everything from fried eggs to potatoes more delicious.


By TEJAL RAO

A Traditional, but Unexpected, Christmas Showstopper
Yotam Ottolenghi usually leaves the Christmas meals to his husband. But dessert is where he shines, making this riff on the classic bûche de Noël.


If the flavors of winter could be rolled into one, then this meringue roulade would be the result.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

16 Delightful Cooking Projects to Brighten Up the Holidays
If you’ve got time on your hands, these recipes are a joy to make.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

Our Food Staff’s 18 Favorite Holiday Recipes
Reporters and editors shared the NYT Cooking recipes that have become holiday traditions in their homes.
By ALEXA WEIBEL

18 Easy Holiday Desserts
No-fuss treats for a sweet season.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

The Small Luxury of Chocolate Truffles
Enticingly imperfect, hand-rolled truffles are a one-bite affair.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Whimsical Sauce Bowls for Sushi Fans
The lids to these bowls from the designer Nam Yoon become chopstick rests.


By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Scandinavian Spread for the Holidays
Aquavit and sweDISHnyc.com offer Julbord kits for a festive celebration.


Aquavit Christmas to Go, $195 for two, 65 East 55th Street, 212-307-7311, aquavit.org; Christmas in a Box, $150 for two, $65 additional, sweDISHnyc.com, 917-251-7093.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Food! Glorious Food!

Reviving a Crop and an African-American Culture, Stalk by Stalk
On the Georgia coast, Maurice Bailey is making sugar cane syrup as a way to preserve a tradition, and the community, of his enslaved ancestors.
By KIM SEVERSON and RINNE ALLEN

Is American Dietetics a White-Bread World? These Dietitians Think So
A new generation of practitioners says the profession pays inadequate attention to different kinds of diets, body types and lives.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

How to Pretend You’re in Dakar Today
The Senegalese capital has an aura that seeps into the soul. Bustling and addictive, it makes you want to stick around.
By SEBASTIAN MODAK

FOOD MATTERS
The Appealing and Potentially Lethal Delicacy That Is Fugu
Eating has been a perilous act for most of human history, but Western diners have lately become that much more obsessed with the idea that our meals might destroy us.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Celebrate the Holidays with Cheese Pancakes and a Performance by Taylor Mac
This week, learn to fold paper airplanes, watch a new ballet or bake Emily Dickinson a birthday cake.
By KATHERINE CUSUMANO and EMMA GRILLO

The Most Tender Short Ribs, the Most Satisfying Soup
Left with some spare short ribs, J. Kenji López-Alt made them sing in a Taiwanese beef noodle soup.


The broth is spicy and sweet, and fragrant with warm spices.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

FRONT BURNER
My, What a Sneaky Little Flour


Those looking to add more fiber to their diet have a flour in their corner: Flourish, made with a high-fiber strain of wheat.
Flourish Fiber from the Farm, $22.49 for five pounds, flourish-flour.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
This Cookbook Raises Money for the Ballet


The American Ballet Theater’s dancers and staff have created a community cookbook of cherished recipes.
“ABT Kitchen,” $15, abt.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Panettone, Fresh From Italy


Olivieri, a bakery in northern Italy, ships its feather-light breads to America.
Olivieri 1882, $70 including two-day shipping from Italy, usa.olivieri1882.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Chocolate Crackers and Yule Logs for the Holidays


Hide these festive treats from La Maison du Chocolat and Charbonnel et Walker in the stockings.
Artistic Piece Holiday Cracker, $40, lamaisonduchocolat.com; Yule Logs, $27.95 for a box of eight, surlatable.com/holidays/confections.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
This Austrian Cake Sparkles at the Party


Punch cakes from the Vienna Cookie Company are inspired by punschkrapferl, a liquor-soaked petit four.
Punch cakes, $60 for seven, viennacookiecompany.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Powerfully Flavored Pasta
Mark Bittman’s puttanesca is as easy and satisfying as anything you’ll make all month.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

For Holiday Baking: One Cookie, Three Ways
Baking experts show how to transform simple sugar cookies into dazzling treats.


Cookies from three expert bakers use the same dough recipe to create three variations.
By CHRISTINE CHITNIS

WINE SCHOOL
Among Sparkling Wines, the Other Half Lives Pretty Well
Consumers focus on Champagne, but in the bubbly universe many stars offer distinctive and delicious versions of their own.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Frank Carney, Co-Founder of Pizza Hut, Dies at 82
When he was 19, Mr. Carney and his brother Dan borrowed $600 from their mother to start their business in Wichita, Kan. Before long it became the world’s largest pizza chain.


Frank Carney, right, in 1996, after he began working for the Papa John’s pizza chain. Thirty-eight years earlier, Mr. Carney had been a founder of Pizza Hut.
By GLENN RIFKIN

Food! Glorious Food!

Singapore Approves a Lab-Grown Meat Product, a Global First
The approval for a U.S. start-up’s “cultured chicken” product is a small victory for the nascent laboratory meat industry. Less clear is whether other countries will follow Singapore’s lead.

A handout photograph showing a dish made with lab-grown chicken developed by Eat Just. In Singapore, it’s cleared as a chicken-nugget ingredient.Credit...Eat Just Inc, via Reuters
A handout photograph showing a dish made with lab-grown chicken developed by Eat Just. In Singapore, it’s cleared as a chicken-nugget ingredient.
By Mike Ives

Is China Laying Claim to Kimchi, Too? Some South Koreans Think So
When a state tabloid suggested that China had set a global standard for kimchi, social media users accused Beijing of misappropriating a Korean culinary staple.

Making kimchi at a Seoul market. Much of the factory-made kimchi eaten in South Korea now comes from China.Credit...Jean Chung for The New York Times
Making kimchi at a Seoul market. Much of the factory-made kimchi eaten in South Korea now comes from China.
By Youmi Kim and Mike Ives

UKRAINE DISPATCH
‘I Have Never Seen So Many Toadstools.’ A Bumper Crop of Mushrooms in Ukraine.
Hunting for mushrooms deep in the forest is the ideal socially distanced pastime.

Viktor Klimov, a professional mushroom hunter, stalking his prey in the forest near the village of Dobrianka, Ukraine, this month.Credit...Brendan Hoffman for The New York Times
Viktor Klimov, a professional mushroom hunter, stalking his prey in the forest near the village of Dobrianka, Ukraine, this month.
By Maria Varenikova and Andrew E. Kramer

SQUARE FEET
As Winter Arrives, Heaters Become a Survival Tool for Businesses
A rise in demand for heating equipment has left some products back-ordered for months, possibly jeopardizing prospects for some businesses of getting through the pandemic intact.


Propane heaters outside La Pecora Bianca in New York.
By C. J. Hughes

7 smart tips for baking better cookies
By Becky Krystal and G. Daniela Galarza

How to Make the Perfect Cookie Box
For years, Melissa Clark has been on a quest to make the most delicious cookie box to gift to loved ones, logging her triumphs and failures along the way. Here’s what she’s learned.
By Melissa Clark

Let This Festive Brandied Fruit Lift Your Holidays
A family tradition inspired Yewande Komolafe’s spiced and steeped fruit mix, which you could add to cocktails and scones, or serve alongside braised lamb.

This dried fruit mix, made with apricots, cranberries, cherries, pears and currants — and a generous amount of brandy — is a taste of the holidays that lasts well beyond them.  Credit...Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
This dried fruit mix, made with apricots, cranberries, cherries, pears and currants — and a generous amount of brandy — is a taste of the holidays that lasts well beyond them.
By Yewande Komolafe

WHAT TO COOK
Dorie Greenspan’s Amazing New Cookie

A French shortbread cookie with a puckery sharp lemon curd and a crunchy meringue top.Credit...Photograph by Heami Lee Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.
A French shortbread cookie with a puckery sharp lemon curd and a crunchy meringue top.
By Sam Sifton

What if Cocktail Mixers Were Actually Good?
Prefab drink mixes have long had a bad name, but here come several made with natural ingredients and a craft bartender’s sensibility.

For decades, the word “mixers” evoked industrially manufactured drinks. Newer options use freshly squeezed juice and handmade syrups.Credit...Adam Friedlander for The New York Times
For decades, the word “mixers” evoked industrially manufactured drinks. Newer options use freshly squeezed juice and handmade syrups.
By Robert Simonson

The Discreet Charm of a Flask
A Prohibition-era accessory once again seems practical.

A Prohibition-era flapper and her flask, circa 1926.Credit...GraphicaArtis/Getty Images
A Prohibition-era flapper and her flask, circa 1926. <
By Kate Bolick

Food! Glorious Food! — Happy Thanksgiving Edition

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
This Thanksgiving, It’s Time to Stop Nap-Shaming
In 2020, officeless workers learned to doze off between Zoom calls. Maybe now we can admit that the post-turkey crash is nothing to be ashamed of.
By Pete Wells

Zagat and Michelin Hit Pause on New York City Guides
There will be no New York restaurant guides from the two companies this year, as restaurateurs struggle to keep their businesses open.
By Florence Fabricant

How to Pretend You’re in Hawaii Tonight
With a few easy-to-find items, you can discover the archipelago’s breathtaking biodiversity, savor its flavors and music, even delight in an island-inspired Thanksgiving.


A view of Hāmoa Beach in Maui.
By STEPHANIE ROSENBLOOM

TIMES INSIDER
Exploring Cultures of the World, No Boarding Pass Required
A new series, Around the World at Home, lets readers channel the spirit of a faraway place without hopping on a flight.

Waikiki in Honolulu. A new installment of the series Around the World at Home focuses on Hawaii and includes, among other tips, how to create a lei and feel like you’re in a Maui palm forest.Credit…Michelle Mishina-Kunz for The New York Times
Waikiki in Honolulu. A new installment of the series Around the World at Home focuses on Hawaii and includes, among other tips, how to create a lei and feel like you’re in a Maui palm forest.
By Lauren Reddy

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
Snapshots of Daily Life in a Remote Region of Portugal


The Barroso is one of Portugal’s most isolated areas, known for its rough terrain, abiding agricultural traditions and stunning beauty.
Photographs and Text by André Vieira

Where That Great French Salt Comes From
The Île de Ré has been producing fleur de sel for generations, and the work is still done by hand.


A salt marsh during harvest time in August in Ars-en-Ré, France, on the Île de Ré. Credit…Yann Werdefroy
By Mark Ellwood

SOUTH KOREA DISPATCH
Kimchi Making at Home Was Going Out of Style. Rural Towns to the Rescue.

A family making kimchi during the Kimjang Festival in Goesan county in South Korea. Credit…Jun Michael Park for The New York Times
Families that have grown weary of eating commercial kimchi in big cities have started making pilgrimages to the countryside where they can learn how to prepare it on their own.
By Choe Sang-Hun

FRONT BURNER
A New Cookbook From Jacques Pépin
His foundation, which offers training programs for chefs, offers a digital cookbook, with recipes from Padma Lakshmi, Kwame Onwuachi and more.

Jacques Pépin, center, has released an online cookbook available to members of his foundation.Credit…Ken Goodman
Jacques Pépin, center, has released an online cookbook available to members of his foundation.
Jacques Pépin Foundation, jp.foundation.
By Florence Fabricant

They Welcomed Dozens for Thanksgiving. Now What?
For decades, a couple have been the unofficial parents for many Black students at Notre Dame. This year, that family is scattered, reflecting on the year’s crises.
By Kim Severson

Bring the Apple Cider Doughnuts to You
You may not be able to take a day trip to the apple orchard, but you can still bring those beloved treats home.

You can bake these fall-winter treats in a doughnut pan — or even a muffin tin. Credit…John Kernick for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
You can bake these fall-winter treats in a doughnut pan — or even a muffin tin.
By Erin Jeanne McDowell

3 Brilliant Ways to Transform Leftover Stuffing
Sohla El-Waylly is here for the holiday’s best side, which she griddles into sandwich filling, fries into croutons and simmers into dumplings for soup.


By Sohla El-Waylly

Give Thanks for This Simple Pleasure
Think of these cheesy bread balls in tomato sauce, a kind of deconstructed pizza, as a tribute to the little things, Yotam Ottolenghi writes.

This recipe is simple, communal and comforting.Credit…Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
This recipe is simple, communal and comforting.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

A Designer’s Endlessly Adaptable Nigerian Stew
Niyi Okuboyejo makes his efo riro with turkey and yams, but you should feel free to experiment. It’s a dish, he says, that rewards improvisation.
By Nick Marino

FRONT BURNER
Try a Red Wine From the Nation of Georgia
Lost Eden, a red blend aged in traditional clay amphora, is dark and earthy.


Lost Eden Red Blend, 2018, $19.99, wine.com.
By Florence Fabricant

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Gianni Bernardinello, Baker Who Fed Neighbors Amid Pandemic, Dies at 76
The Milanese baker would leave out baskets of bread for people hit hard economically by the coronavirus pandemic. Now the disease has claimed his life.

A man of many careers, Gianni Bernardinello settled down as a baker. A sign outside his shop over free baked goods read, “To give a hand to those in need, help yourself and think of others too.”Credit…via Bernardinello family
A man of many careers, Gianni Bernardinello settled down as a baker. A sign outside his shop over free baked goods read, “To give a hand to those in need, help yourself and think of others too.”
By Emma Bubola

Food! Glorious Food! — Almost Turkey Day?

The Thanksgiving Myth Gets a Deeper Look This Year
For many Native Americans, the Covid-19 toll and the struggle over racial inequity make this high time to re-examine the holiday, and a cruel history.
By BRETT ANDERSON

How to Do Thanksgiving With Less Waste
For environmental advocates, it includes small measures like reusing ingredients, and broader efforts like rethinking our relationship to the holiday.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

TECH TIP
How to Have a Fully Remote Family Thanksgiving
Skipping travel this year to stop the spread of Covid-19? Here’s how to digitally reimagine the holiday, from meal prep to after-dinner activities.
By J. D. BIERSDORFER

Europe Keeps Schools Open, Not Restaurants. The U.S. Has Other Ideas.
Science increasingly suggests classrooms can be kept open safely. But dining rooms pose a different problem.
By SHARON OTTERMAN and ELIZA SHAPIRO

How Does Ina Do It?
Ina Garten, a.k.a. the Barefoot Contessa, has a loyal, diverse and growing fan base that follows her anywhere — even through quarantine and a Thanksgiving lockdown.
By JULIA MOSKIN

This Is Not Your Average Pumpkin Soup
Caramelized onions, apple cider and a touch of curry powder make this simple soup worthy of the Thanksgiving table.

Lidey Heuck’s creamy pumpkin soup. Credit...Yossy Arefi for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)
Lidey Heuck’s creamy pumpkin soup.
By Lidey Heuck

16 Festive Thanksgiving Mains That Aren’t Turkey
You might be skipping turkey this year because it’s too big or just too much work. We’ve got options to get excited about.
1. Simplest Roast Chicken
2. Meatball Toad-in-the-Hole
3. Roasted Mushrooms With Braised Black Lentils and Parsley Croutons
4. Mrouzia Lamb Shanks
5. Meat and Potato Skillet Gratin
6. Roast Chicken With Fennel
7. Vegetarian Mushroom Wellington
8. Mushroom Potpie
9. Roast Pork With Milk
10. Mussakhan (Roast Chicken With Sumac and Red Onions)
11. Creamy White Bean and Fennel Casserole
12. Slow-Roasted Beef
13. Onion Tart
14. Swedish Meatballs
15. Pan-Roasted Duck With Wild Mushrooms
16. Potato-and-Radicchio Tart
By ALEXA WEIBEL

19 Make-Ahead Recipes for Thanksgiving Day
A little planning goes a long way to help a holiday meal come together easily.
1. Spicy Peanut and Pumpkin Soup
2. Celery Salad With Apples and Blue Cheese
3. Lemon-Garlic Kale Salad
4. Everything Parker House Rolls
5. Mashed Potato Casserole
6. Mushroom Bread Pudding
7. Five-Spice Roasted Carrots With Toasted Almonds
8. Green Bean Casserole
9. Roasted Turnips and Winter Squash With Agave Glaze
10. Scalloped Potato Gratin
11. Sweet Potato Casserole
12. French Onion Panade
13. Make-Ahead Gravy
14. Cranberry-Orange Jelly
15. Cranberry-Orange Relish
16. Sweet Potato Casserole Pie
17. Apple Cider Whoopie Pies
18. Apple Pie Bars
19. Pumpkin Layer Cake With Caramel Buttercream
By Alexa Weibel

A GOOD APPETITE
Even the Littlest Helping Hands Can Make Thanksgiving
This year’s scaled-down festivities present the perfect opportunity to start developing kitchen skills.

Crumbling cornbread for stuffing is a great task for kids of any age. Credit...Lucy Schaeffer for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)
Crumbling cornbread for stuffing is a great task for kids of any age.
By Melissa Clark

When Only Homegrown Sweet Potatoes Will Do
For many Southerners, a holiday meal isn’t complete without sweet potatoes direct from the grower.

Although yams and sweet potatoes are interchangeable to many Americans, yams belong to another plant group; most African diaspora yams are large, with fibrous skin and pale white flesh. (During the 1930s, the U.S. Department of Agriculture allowed Louisiana farmers to market the Puerto Rican sweet potato variety as yams, according to Ms. McGreger’s book.)

By NICOLE TAYLOR

Take Hot Chocolate to the Next Level
It’s getting cold and your table might be outside. Here are ways to warm up with adult versions of winter’s favorite drink.


By STEVEN KURUTZ