Labiba Halloun has been cooking for more than 60 years. She is known in her hometown, Isfiya, Israel, for her delectable food, like these za’atar hand pies.
By Reem Kassis
Cappelletti
Arancini
Lemons
Honey Heart
FRONT BURNER An Auction to Raise Money for Restaurants
The Conscious Collection includes lots of wine and spirits, as well as extravagant experiences like truffle hunting in Italy.
The Conscious Collection auction includes a chance to win a dinner for eight at Château Margaux.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
A Crawfish Feast Where the South Meets Southeast Asia
Spring is turning into a comeback season at Crawfish & Noodles, a Houston restaurant famed for the Viet-Cajun style that has spread around the country.
By Brett AndersonPhotographs by Sergio Flores
For all you foodie masochists out there: How to Make Stunning Croissants at Home
Get those perfectly burnished, flaky pastries straight from your oven with this expert advice.
Croissants — plain or almond, or filled with chocolate or ham and cheese — are all achievable at home.
By CLAIRE SAFFITZ
Both dasima (dried kelp) and gim (roasted seaweed) add seaside nuance to this pasta.
By Eric Kim
The Easiest Way to Crunchy Homemade Samosas
Keep a stash, made from scratch, in the freezer, and fry them up as a quick snack to break fast, to host surprise guests or to just feed yourself.
Mint chutney is a cooling dip for crackling-hot samosas stuffed with spiced chicken.
By ZAINAB SHAH
Come Get Your Pork Chop!
Melissa Clark’s single-skillet affair pairs a rich chop with springy snap peas, mint and feta.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN
Martha Lou Gadsden, Soul-Food Matriarch, Dies at 91
For 37 years she stirred the pot at Martha Lou’s Kitchen in Charleston, S.C., a modest restaurant that became known as a temple for Low Country cuisine.
Martha Lou Gadsden in Martha Lou’s Kitchen, her restaurant in Charleston. S.C., in 2011. “I know what I want done,” she said of her approach to cooking, “but to give you the recipe I’ll have to just make up one.”
By KIM SEVERSON
How to Save at the Grocery Store
Food is pleasure and connection for most of us. Staying within your budget can bring peace of mind and keep your overall spending on track.
By LEANNE BROWN
Fancy up that Easter basket with sweet treats from Rose Street Patisserie/Patisserie 46
by Joy Summers and Alicia Banaszewski
New Luxury Hotel Taps Minneapolis’ Top Fine Dining Chef to Run Its Restaurants
Gavin Kaysen will oversee the Four Seasons fine dining and cafe restaurants
Gavin Kaysen is having a few friends over for dinner.
by Joy Summers
COOKING CLASS From Zac Posen, a Rich and Briny Pasta for Spring
Having long found inspiration in the kitchen, the designer shares a recipe for uni spaghetti that he perfected after a trip to Sardinia.
By IMAN STEVENSON
MVP Chicken
Colu Henry’s sheet-pan recipe, with shallot and grapes, is sweet, savory and abundantly simple.
The finished dish is somehow both refined and rustic — much like Sellu’s woodworking.
By NICK MARINO
Von Diaz’s Essential Puerto Rican Recipes
The journalist and cookbook author, who grew up traveling between Atlanta and Puerto Rico, collects dishes that tell stories about life on the island, and the flavors that bring her back to it.
Von Diaz stirs a pot of sancocho, a stew found all over the Caribbean, as it simmers over an open fire at her home in North Carolina.
By Von Diaz
An airy sponge cake tops a creamy lemon curd in these simple treats.
By Melissa Clark
FRONT BURNER Delightful Neat or on the Rocks
Jaisalmer India Craft Gin, newly available in the United States, is pleasant alone, or mingling with mixers.
Jaisalmer Indian Craft Gin, $49.99 for 750 milliliters, winechateau.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Sours That Walk the Line
The drink has countless variations, but a simple spirit-citrus-sweetener formula is at the heart of all of them.
Kent Taylor, the founder and chief executive of the Texas Roadhouse restaurant chain, died on Thursday. He was turned down more than 80 times as he initially tried to find investors.
By Bryan Pietsch
Korean TV’s Unlikely Star: Subway Sandwiches
The sandwich chain’s aggressive use of product placement has made it a ubiquitous presence on the country’s television shows.
By SETH BERKMAN
Cook Without a Script
Embrace no-recipe recipes, or set yourself up for a big meal for St. Patrick’s Day.
By SAM SIFTON
Sturdy and silken: peanut-butter wafer cake.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON
FRONT BURNER A Greek Olive Oil Cake in Time for Easter
Kosterina’s new cake is festive for spring, covered with a layer of confectioners’ sugar or gussied up with sorbet.
Kosterina Extra Virgin Olive Oil Cake, $38, kosterina.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
FRONT BURNER This Mixer Adds Zip to Summer Coolers
A sparkling water flavored with lime and yuzu is a nice change of pace from tonic in a mixed drink.
Fever-Tree Sparkling Lime & Yuzu, four-pack of 6.8-ounce bottles about $5, fever-tree.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Steven Spurrier in his Paris wine shop in 1978, several years after he rocked the wine world with a blind tasting of California vs. French wines.
By Eric Asimov
UNHITCHED A Former Culinary Couple Now Thrives as a Blended Family For Gale Gand and Rick Tramonto, both chefs, their passion for food always came first. After their divorce, they’ve learned to prioritize family. By LOUISE RAFKIN
FRONT BURNER An Ode to Irish Classics, in Chocolate L.A. Burdick’s holiday collection riffs on Irish breakfast tea, whiskey and even stew, with some white chocolate sheep, too.
Irish Chocolate Assortment, $45 for one-half pound, $78 for one pound, burdickchocolate.com. By FLORENCE FABRICANT
For Perfectly Light Schnitzel, Do This J. Kenji López-Alt was looking for the secret to an evenly golden, puffed schnitzel. He found it, and his recipe puts a new spin on an Austrian technique.
In this schnitzel, steam inflates the breading layer, which separates from the cutlet and puffs before it fully crisps. By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT
FIVE WEEKNIGHT DISHES These Eggs Live Up to the Hype J. Kenji López-Alt’s scrambled eggs are a superb light supper, and so springy.
A GOOD APPETITE Your Morning Granola Just Got an Upgrade Filled with coconut and dried cherries, these breakfast treats from Frenchette Bakery are wholesome enough for breakfast, and sweet enough for dessert.
These breakfast bars won’t disappoint. By Melissa Clark
Also from BMTN’s Turtinen: “A Minneapolis bagel shop has made Food & Wine’s list of Best Bagels in America. Rise Bagel Co., at 530 N 3rd St. in Minneapolis’ North Loop, made the magazine’s list of ‘nearly 50’ best bagels (it didn’t rank the bagels), which was published March 5. Food & Wine says 20 years ago, a list like this would probably have been New York-centric, but in the years since quality bagel makers have popped up all around the country, making ‘the kind of bagels you take home by the dozen, hot and fresh.”
Anna Majani was 18 when she started working at her family’s chocolate company. Over the years she became its creative heart. When Anna Majani first stepped into her family’s factory in Bologna, Italy, to begin work among the cocoa toasters, marble tables and molds for chocolates eaten by kings and poets, nobody took her seriously.
It was 1954. She was a woman. She was all of 18. And she had caused a scandal in town, becoming pregnant by a soccer player at 15.
But Ms. Majani stayed on, rose to vice president and became the company’s creative heart, earning credit for turning her family’s chocolates into design objects and imbuing the brand with her charisma. By EMMA BUBOLA
David Mintz, chairman and chief executive of Tofutti Brands, in 1984. His company went from distributing pint containers of its signature frozen vanilla soy-based dessert to developing some 35 plant-based products. Late in the 1970s he had to close Mintz’s Buffet, his restaurant on Third Avenue, because the block was being razed to build Trump Plaza. When he was offered the option to transplant his restaurant to the Upper West Side, he sought Rabbi Schneerson’s guidance. The rabbi’s secretary, Rabbi Leibel Groner, called him back, Mr. Mintz recalled, and said: “Get a pencil and paper and write it down. This is very important.”
“I was very excited,” Mr. Mintz said. “This was the answer I was waiting for. Then he dictated to me, ‘The rebbe says, “Absolutely not.” The rebbe says you should continue with your experiments with the pareve ice cream and God will help you to be very successful.’” By SAM ROBERTS
How the Cookbooks of 2020 Tell the Stories of Our Pandemic Kitchens
From beans and baking projects to vegan and global recipes, the year’s best sellers show the ways home cooking changed, and what may lie ahead.
Comfort, Speed and Dessert: The Best Sellers
The top 10 cookbooks for 2020 on the New York Times best-seller list.
The Riviera Maya, a popular vacation corridor, is the Caribbean coastline south of Cancún to Tulum, where El Castillo, perched above the sea, is among the ancient ruins.
By STEPHANIE ROSENBLOOM
FRONT BURNER This Cheese Is Made for Aging
The latest raw cow’s milk from Meadow Creek is an eight-month aged cheese named for Appalachia.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
FRONT BURNER Venison All the Way From Hawaii
Maui Nui sells various cuts from Axis deer, and the harvest helps combat erosion that has affected the island’s coral reefs.
FRONT BURNER This Book Covers the Hard Stuff
“American Cider” looks at the history of the beverage, and it discusses how it is made, too.
“American Cider: A Modern Guide to a Historic Beverage,” by Dan Pucci and Craig Cavallo (Ballantine Books, $18).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
Stop and Make This Rice Pudding
Warm and smoky with spices, this take, from Sara Mardanbigi and Edgar Rico of Nixta Taqueria, is worth making — and soon.
Annie’s Pledges to Purge a Class of Chemicals From Its Mac and Cheese
The move comes nearly four years after a study showed that chemicals believed to cause health problems in children and reproductive issues in adults were found in mass-market macaroni and cheese packets.
By MICHAEL CORKERY
Where the Rare Citrus Grows
For French chefs and perfumers, a government-run grove on Corsica — home to some 900 varieties — has become a place of pilgrimage.
A selection of fruit from the Citrus Biological Resource Center in San Giuliano, Corsica, including, clockwise from top left, Corsican citrons, makrut limes, Meyer lemons, Timor pomelos, Okitsu Satsuma mandarins, bergamot oranges, Clanor sweet oranges, clementines, Page mandarins, Samuyao papedas, Clemendor mandarins, Star Ruby grapefruits, Chinotto sour oranges, variegated lemons, variegated sour oranges, Fukushu kumquats, Buddha’s hand citrons, Hong Kong kumquats, Brown River finger limes and Faustrime finger lime hybrids.
By ZOEY POLL
The (Surprising) Rise of the Sheet Pan
How did this unflashy piece of equipment become a home cooking star? (It has something to do with Martha Stewart.)
By GENEVIEVE KO
Clockwise from left, five spice, garam masala, sweet baking spice, baharat and za’atar.
By MELISSA CLARK
‘Stop this madness’: NYT angers Italians with ‘smoky tomato carbonara’ recipe
Recipe using bacon and parmesan cheese attracts ire of chefs, foodies and farmers’ association
Coldiretti said pasta carbonara was one of the most ‘betrayed’ Italian recipes abroad.
Angela Giuffrida Rome correspondent
Just Desserts
We asked, you answered: Here are five reasonably easy desserts for the week ahead.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN
THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS An Inside Look at Cuba’s Constant Struggle for Clean Water
Across the country, battling water scarcity requires a vast array of workers, from inspectors and fumigators to truck drivers and pipe layers.
By SANNE DERKS
Our 17 Coziest Vegetarian Soups
These heartening recipes are here to convince you that comfort is best served by the spoonful.
Curl up with a warming bowl of garlicky white bean and tomato soup from Ali Slagle.
By ALEXA WEIBEL
5 Recipes for Mardi Gras at Home
Mardi Gras looks a little different this year, but these recipes will help you get into the spirit.
By SARA BONISTEEL
Say It With Carbonara
You could say “I love you” with chocolate, but isn’t a bacony, eggy, cheesy pasta so much better?
By EMILY WEINSTEIN
A GOOD APPETITE There’s No Better Time for Maximalist Brownies
Stuffed or topped with the likes of sugared coconut, pecan pie filling or salted pretzels, these brownies are not about subtlety.
It’s time to take your brownies over the top.
By MELISSA CLARK
Peggy Smith, left, and Sue Conley of Cowgirl Creamery. Photograph: Courtesy of Cowgirl Creamery
Over the course of two decades, Sue Conley and Peggy Smith created a beloved California brand – and helped redefine our relationship to food
Charlotte Simmonds in Oakland
THE POUR How to Think About Wine Vintages
Conventional wisdom can often lead consumers away from delicious wines. Better to think of individual years in terms of character than of quality.
By ERIC ASIMOV
S. Prestley Blake outside a Friendly’s restaurant in Port St. Lucie, Fla., in 2001. He and his brother started the business with a $547 loan from their parents.
By DANIEL E. SLOTNIK
Joe Allen, Theater District Restaurateur, Is Dead at 87
His restaurant Joe Allen and another he opened next door, Orso, have been popular hangouts for celebrities and celebrity-watchers and the flagships of an international empire.
Joe Allen at his regular spot at the bar at Joe Allen, the popular Manhattan theater district restaurant he opened in 1965, before his block was christened Restaurant Row.
By JOYCE PURNICK
How America’s Food System Could Change Under Biden
New school meal standards? Help for small farmers? Maybe, but first the new administration has to deal with hunger, food safety and a diminished U.S.D.A.
“It’s like, we know you want us to jump from serving meat to going vegan,” Mr. Nischan said. “But man, we got to get the stove fixed first.”
By Kim Severson
IN THE GARDEN The Year-Round Garden
As one intrepid gardener in Nova Scotia discovered, you can extend the growing season more than you may think — if you have the right tools.
By MARGARET ROACH
The chef joins the museum’s director, Adam D. Weinberg, for two discussions about the intersection of food and culture.
Food, Culture and What’s Next talk, 6 p.m., Feb. 9, whitney.org.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
FRONT BURNER Message in a Chocolate Box
Truffolie’s Valentine’s Day chocolates carry a customizable secret message, revealed once all the pieces are eaten.
Truffolie chocolates, 12 for $40, 24 for $75, truffolie.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT
FRONT BURNER A Food Course for Home-Schooling
Spoons Across America has created a nine-class Food Exploration Project, suitable for students ages 8 to 11.
Feigang Fei’s Montreal restaurant, Cuisine AuntDai, got a welcome lift this month after a tweet about his bluntly honest online menu went viral.
By Dan Bilefsky
Bright pickled shallots and crisp scallions balance the richness of suon kho, northern Vietnamese pork ribs that are grilled then braised in a savory caramel sauce.
‘Christina Nguyen, 36, the chef of Hai Hai in Minneapolis, went rogue during Tet even as a child. When she was young — and picky — she avoided the requisite sticky rice cakes at big family feasts and ate only her favorites, like fried cha gio spring rolls and tender steamed banh beo rice cakes. At those gatherings, Ms. Nguyen gambled away her li xi, small red envelopes containing crisp new bills, in a popular dice game called bau cua tom ca. That childhood food and rebellious fun now inspire her restaurant’s Tet menu, which last year included fried spring rolls filled with venison, a nod to the stag that appears on the dice and mat in the game.’
As a child, Nguyen Phan Que Mai celebrated Tet in southern Vietnam, where the golden flowers of Mai trees bloom around Lunar New Year.
Family elders hand out li xi, envelopes filled with money in the form of fresh new bills or coins, to children who offer them New Year’s wishes.
Bau cua tom ca, which means “gourd crab shrimp fish,” is a Vietnamese game where players bet on which dice images will match the pictures on the board.
Four generations of the Tran family celebrate Tet in Oregon, including Lisa Tran, right; her paternal grandmother, Chau Thi Nguyen, center; and her mother, Mai Nguyen.
For southern Vietnamese thit heo kho trung, boiled eggs simmered with the braised pork, are served whole to diners who then split them in their bowls of rice.
Chile crisp, a spicy-crunchy condiment originally from China’s Guizhou Province, seasons the tofu-and-vegetable filling in these dumplings and the accompanying dipping sauce.
By GENEVIEVE KO
You don’t have to add the pickled jalapeños, but they really take the soup over the top.
By MELISSA CLARK
CULINARY ARTS The Story of John Young, the Original King of Buffalo Wings
His restaurants closed and his glory faded, but a historical reclamation effort is bringing new attention to the secret sauce he perfected.
Text by Rachel Wharton
Illustrations by Koren Shadmi
EAT Saying Goodbye With Beans
In her final column for the magazine, Samin Nosrat makes the case for cooking beans the old-fashioned way.
Chris Montana of Du Nord Spirits, in Minneapolis, said the pandemic poses an existential threat to craft distilleries across the United States. Some have survived by producing high-alcohol hand sanitizer.
By JULIA MOSKIN
20 Wines Under $20: Postcards From Around the World
In a pandemic era, when traveling is largely out of the question, these wines, good values all, can take you on a trip around the globe.
Artomaña Arabako Txakolina Xarmant 2019 $19.99 Alkoomi Frankland River “Black Label” Riesling 2018 $19.96 Maître de Chai Clements Hills Red Table Wine 2018 $19.99 Odoardi Calabria Vino Rosso 1480 L’Inizio 2015 $14.99 Cacique Maravilla Pipeño País 2019 1 liter $18.99 Feudo Montoni Sicilia Catarratto Masso 2018 $19.99 Patrick Jasmin Collines Rhodaniennes La Chevalière 2016 $19.99 Argatia Macedonia Haroula 2017 $18.99 Ver Sacrum Valle de Uco G.S.M. 2018 $19.96 Weszeli Kamptal Langenlois Grüner Veltliner 2019 $19.99 Domaine Tatsis Macedonia Limnio 2018 $19.99 Château de Villeneuve Saumur Champigny 2018 $19.99 Fattoria San Lorenzo Marche Bianco di Gino 2019 $17.99 Haarmeyer Clarksburg St. Rey Chenin Blanc Sutter Ranch Vineyard 2019 $18.96 Grosjean Vallée d’Aoste Torrette 2019 $19.96 Cascina Fontana Dolcetto d’Alba 2019 $19.99 Elizabeth Spencer Mendocino Sauvignon Blanc Special Cuvée 2019 $16.99 Von Winning Pfalz Riesling Winnings 2018 $18.96 Casa de Saima Bairrada Baga Tonel 10 2018 $19.96 Toro Albalá Montilla-Moriles Eléctrico Fino del Lagar Saca de Primavera NV 500 milliliters $18.99
By Eric Asimov
:format(webp)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69048320/Rose_Street_Easter_Eggs.0.jpg "Fancy up that Easter basket with sweet treats from Rose Street Patisserie/Patisserie 46")
:format(webp)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/69018090/SpoonStable_Cannon_18.0.0.1501024933.0.jpg "Gavin Kaysen is having a few friends over for dinner.")
