Author Archives: Larry Sanderson

Food! Glorious Food!

How Eating Out Has Changed, From the Menu to the Tip
Early-bird dinners, sturdier pizzas, noisier streets: The pandemic has brought a host of new developments that could last awhile.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES FOOD DESK

Lawsuits Over ‘Misleading’ Food Labels Surge as Groups Cite Lax U.S. Oversight
A flurry of litigation by advocacy groups seeks to combat what they say is a rise in deceptive marketing by food giants.
By ANDREW JACOBS

FOOD MATTERS
The Ethereal Taste of Flowers
Attempting to describe the appeal of floral flavors raises a challenging question: What is the relation between taste and smell?
By LIGAYA MISHAN and ESTHER CHOI

Next Food Frontier: Fish Made From Plants, or in a Lab
Sophisticated, plant-based alternatives that mimic seafood are cropping up at restaurants and grocery stores around the world. And “cultivated” seafood, grown in labs from real cells, is on the horizon.
By MIKE IVES

Plant-Based Foods Expand, With Consumers Hungry for More
A broad variety of options are now available in grocery aisles and on restaurant menus, and more companies are looking to get in on the action.
By JULIE CRESWELL

13 Delicious, Original Ways to Eat Eggs for Dinner
Dinner can be inspired with these inventive takes on a world-class protein.
By Becky Hughes

EAT
The Simple Perfection of Fried Eggs and White Rice
The great thing about egg rice is that it’s hardly cooking. If you can fry an egg, then you can make egg rice.


By Eric Kim

A GOOD APPETITE
When Eggplant Meets Eggs
This silky end-of-summer dish, reminiscent in some ways of shakshuka, is run through with spiced eggplant, tomatoes and herbs.

Spiced eggplant and tomatoes with runny eggs.
Spiced eggplant and tomatoes with runny eggs.
By Melissa Clark

There’s Something About Miso
This pantry staple leads to big, umami-rich flavor in pastas, soups and vegetable dishes.
By TEJAL RAO

Preserving the Season at Its Peak
Try these three methods to capture the essence of summer fruit in jams and jellies.

Chunky jams and fruit jellies bursting with flavor will turn your simple breakfast toast into a celebration.
Chunky jams and fruit jellies bursting with flavor will turn your simple breakfast toast into a celebration.
By Yewande Komolafe

This No-Bake Cheesecake Is Devastatingly Good
Honeydew and cantaloupe become ideal for dessert when cream and sugar enhance their natural sweetness.

Where the thick, salty-sweet base layer of buttery crackers will satisfy the crust lovers out there, the creamy, soft-set filling will change minds about what melon can truly do.
Where the thick, salty-sweet base layer of buttery crackers will satisfy the crust lovers out there, the creamy, soft-set filling will change minds about what melon can truly do.
By Eric Kim

The Many Faces of Mooncakes
A celebration of the luminous autumn pastry — the signature dish of the Mid-Autumn Festival, which commemorates the full moon and the fall harvest.


Mooncakes are prepared at a restaurant in Suzhou, a city in Jiangsu Province in China. The pastries are meant to show off the best ingredients of a region.
By CLARISSA WEI

Recipes for a Little Joy
Caramelized zucchini pasta, slow-cooker tinga chicken tacos and more meals that are as simple as they are fun to make.
By Margaux Laskey

FRONT BURNER
‘The Big Book of Amaro’ Chronicles the World of the Bitter Spirit
Everything is covered in an encyclopedic new book by Matteo Zed, an Italian spirits expert.


“The Big Book of Amaro” by Matteo Zed (Countryman Press, $28).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Delores Custer, 79, Dies; Gave Star Turns to Cornflakes and Noodles
A longtime food stylist for big-name companies, she was a master of the craft and taught students all over the world how to sweat a glass or perfect the pizza cheese pull.


The food stylist Delores Custer in an undated photo. Her sandwiches were architectural marvels, her builds — to use the industry term of art — the envy of her peers.
By PENELOPE GREEN

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Wild Indian
NYT Critic’s Pick | Thriller | Directed by Lyle Mitchell Corbine Jr.
This drama from Lyle Mitchell Corbine Jr. captures the various wounds of individual, familial and generational trauma.


Michael Greyeyes in “Wild Indian.”
By LISA KENNEDY

Worth
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Biography, Drama, History | Directed by Sara Colangelo
This drama starring Michael Keaton is a surprisingly effective movie about a tricky subject — the creation of the Sept. 11 Victim Compensation Fund.


From left, Michael Keaton and Stanley Tucci in “Worth.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Faya Dayi
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Jessica Beshir
Jessica Beshir’s debut feature settles into a trance-like flow.


A scene from the documentary “Faya Dayi.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

— Of Possible Interest —

Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Fantasy, Sci-Fi | Directed by Destin Daniel Cretton
A millennial slacker reckons with his past — and his family of warriors.


From left, Xialing (Meng’er Zhang), Shaun (Simu Liu) and Katy (Awkwafina) in Marvel’s “Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

Zone 414
R | Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Andrew Baird
A blatant “Blade Runner” rip-off, this perfunctory techno-noir sees a brooding detective team up with an emotional android.


By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Food! Glorious Food!

EAT
A Holy-Grail, One-Pot Roast Chicken
It’s the simplest recipe: a little bit braised and a little bit roasted in a covered Dutch oven.


The juices from the Dutch-oven chicken give a salad’s vinaigrette a warm lusciousness.
By DORIE GREENSPAN

COOKING CLASS
For a Late-Summer Gathering, Try This Spin on a Salade Niçoise
Fanny Singer takes some liberties with her version of the classic dish, going so far as to include lettuce.


The finished dish, ready to be shared among friends.
By JAMIE FELDMAR

TIMESVIDEO
Cooking Class | Fanny Singer
The author’s riff on a salade niçoise incorporates market-fresh vegetables and grilled ahi tuna.
By SCOTT J. ROSS

This Rosh Hashana Salad Is a Fresh Take on Ancient Flavors
For the Jewish New Year, Joan Nathan composes a dish that pays tribute to foods that the biblical Canaanites might have eaten.

Ancient ingredients like barley, figs and pomegranates give this fall salad its sweet and tangy flavors. You can make it your own for the holiday.
Ancient ingredients like barley, figs and pomegranates give this fall salad its sweet and tangy flavors. You can make it your own for the holiday. Credit…Ryan Liebe for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.
By Joan Nathan

FRONT BURNER
The Blush of Pineapple, From a New Online Source
Full Moon Fruits sells a wide variety of produce, including a sweet pink pineapple from Costa Rica.


Full Moon Fruits, fullmoonfruits.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A Streusel Cake to Write Home About
The Vienna Cookie Company’s new streusel cakes are an ode to the coffee shop crumb cake, but with fillings that stand above.


Streusel Cakes, $40 each (eight inches), $45 for a sampler, viennacookiecompany.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Last Call for Tomatoes and Corn
The end of summer is in sight, so make all the hot-weather recipes on your to-do list.
By MELISSA CLARK

What to Cook This Week
Start with a big Italian-inspired spread, then go casual later on with BLT tacos.
By MELISSA CLARK

A GOOD APPETITE
A Retro Icebox Pie Gets a Vibrant Makeover
Add some refrigerator alchemy to vanilla wafers, fresh strawberries and mounds of whipped cream for a dreamy, creamy late-summer dessert.

A layer of strawberry slices tops a creamy strawberry mousse in this pie, which is then covered by gelatin for a triple whammy of summer flavor.
A layer of strawberry slices tops a creamy strawberry mousse in this pie, which is then covered by gelatin for a triple whammy of summer flavor.
By MELISSA CLARK

Summer Squash Has the Range
Three recipes for zucchini celebrate the versatility of this seasonal staple.
By TEJAL RAO

A 15-Minute Sustainable Seafood Feast
Melissa Clark is here with a speedy no-recipe recipe for mussels.


By MELISSA CLARK

Tiger Nut Cake

Pasta Grannies

Rhine

FRONT BURNER
A Sip of Paradise
St. Agrestis’s new aperitivo, Paradiso, designed for the spritz, has a bracing citrus profile and a spicy aroma.


St. Agrestis Paradiso Aperitivo, $34.99 for 750 milliliters, stagrestis.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

13 Delicious Drinks for Late-Summer Sipping
Cocktails, coffees and every beveragino in between for all of your imbibing needs.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

For France, American Vines Still Mean Sour Grapes
French authorities have tried to outlaw hardy American hybrids for 87 years. But climate change and the natural wine movement are giving renegade winemakers a lift.
By NORIMITSU ONISHI

Rebecca Wasserman-Hone, Who Put Burgundy on the U.S. Map, Dies at 84
American born, she fell into the wine business and became a champion of the small vignerons of the Burgundy region and their ancient family farms.

Rebecca Wasserman-Hone at her home in Bouilland, France, in 2018. She once said that as a woman selling Burgundy wine in America in the 1970s, she had to have “the zeal of a missionary, the stubbornness of a mule and the ability to change clothes in a telephone booth.”
Rebecca Wasserman-Hone at her home in Bouilland, France, in 2018. She once said that as a woman selling Burgundy wine in America in the 1970s, she had to have “the zeal of a missionary, the stubbornness of a mule and the ability to change clothes in a telephone booth.”
By Penelope Green

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Candyman
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Horror, Thriller | Directed by Nia DaCosta
The new take on the 1990s cult horror film returns the story to its old stomping ground, this time with Jordan Peele as a producer.


Yahya Abdul-Mateen II in Nia DaCosta’s “Candyman.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Mosquito State
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, Horror, Thriller | Directed by Filip Jan Rymsza
A Wall Street genius becomes the willing host to a colony of mosquitoes in this dreamily surreal horror movie.


Beau Knapp in “Mosquito State.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Isabella
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Matías Piñeiro
The Argentine filmmaker Matías Piñeiro, who riffs on Shakespeare, expands his ambition with this drama.


Agustina Muñoz and María Villar in “Isabella.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

— Of Possible Interest —

The Colony
R | Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Tim Fehlbaum
In this science fiction film, set generations after humans have destroyed Earth, an astronaut returns to the planet to see if it is habitable.


Nora Arnezeder in “The Colony,” directed by Tim Fehlbaum.
By LENA WILSON

Food! Glorious Food!

THE SATURDAY PROFILE
‘Super Taster’ Who Lost Sense of Smell Is Helping Italians Regain It
A celebrated epicure in Italy was devastated when Covid-19 first stole, then warped his sense of taste. Through training, Michele Crippa has recaptured some of it and is now on a quest to aid others.
By EMMA BUBOLA

THE WELL NEWSLETTER
The Dos and Don’ts of Fermented Foods
Is all yogurt created equal? Does it matter if the kimchi is spicy? And what if my kombucha has sugar? Your questions answered.
By TARA PARKER-POPE

Sea Scallops Farmed in Maine Aren’t Just Sustainable. They’re Helping Their Habitat.
There are only a handful of these farms in the United States, most run by fishing families in Maine. But their number is growing.
By MELISSA CLARK

Some Assembly Required
An expertly curated platter makes for ideal late-summer eating.
By TEJAL RAO

This Fish Is Sustainable, Cheap and Delicious on the Grill
Porgies deserve more attention. Chefs love them and you will, too.

At Shuka in SoHo, porgy is offered grilled whole and stuffed with lemon and herbs.
At Shuka in SoHo, porgy is offered grilled whole and stuffed with lemon and herbs.
By Florence Fabricant

EAT
My Auntie Taught Me the Secret to a Perfect Breakfast: Improvise
Upma is a simple, delicious South Indian breakfast dish that you can make differently every time.


By TEJAL RAO

These Tricks.
Treat the fruit like a cucumber (they’re related), and add it to a Greek salad or turn it into a soup, to name just a few ideas.


By Florence Fabricant

LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION
Raw Onions Are the Best Food. Let Me Explain.
There’s no greater pleasure than biting into a slice of a raw red onion and tasting its stinging sharpness.
By IVA DIXIT

Get That Corn
Eat it in a salad with halloumi, over fish or tofu, in a pasta, or on its own with tartar butter.

By EMILY WEINSTEIN
By Emily Weinstein

A Delicate Dessert That Puts the Whole Lemon to Use
These lemon-labneh possets make the most of peels, egg whites and any extra yogurt you may have on hand, Yotam Ottolenghi writes.

These lemon-labneh possets are finished with meringue shards and a burnt lemon powder.
These lemon-labneh possets are finished with meringue shards and a burnt lemon powder.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

How to Make Dinner Without Cooking Anything
Follow a simple formula for colorful, satisfying dishes that don’t require turning on the oven or stove.


Prepared proteins, such as rotisserie chicken, help hearty salads come together quickly.
By ALI SLAGLE

Tomato

Lemonade

Angel Cake

Gattafin

20 Wines Under $20: For When the Weather Is Sultry
The needs are different when it’s hot and sticky: Lighter-bodied wines, more whites and rosés than reds, refreshment rather than solidity.


By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

In the Same Breath
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Nanfu Wang
In her latest documentary, the director of “One Child Nation” revisits the pandemic as it unfolded in China as well as in the United States.


A scene from the documentary “In the Same Breath.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

The Night House
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Horror, Thriller | Directed by David Bruckner
A sensational Rebecca Hall plays a grieving widow besieged by potentially occult forces in this superior creepout.


Rebecca Hall in “The Night House.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

On Broadway
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, History | Directed by Oren Jacoby
The neon lights are bright, and so is the spirit of this brief but loving history of Broadway.


Ian McKellen is one of the interview subjects of the documentary “On Broadway.”
By MAYA PHILLIPS

— Of Possible Interest —

Cryptozoo
Animation | Directed by Dash Shaw
This animated film is a rapturously hallucinogenic daydream for mature audiences.


A scene from the animated film “Cryptozoo.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZAH

Food! Glorious Food!

Biden Administration Prompts Largest Permanent Increase in Food Stamps
The jump in benefits, the biggest in the program’s history, comes after a revision of the initiative’s nutrition standards that supporters say will reduce hunger and better reflect how Americans eat.
By JASON DEPARLE

What We Think We Know About Metabolism May Be Wrong
A new study challenges assumptions about energy expenditure by people, including the idea that metabolism slows at middle age.
By GINA KOLATA

TRILOBITES
How Peppers Proliferated Around the Planet
In the world’s plant gene banks, scientists studied how so many varieties of the humble capsicum worked their way onto our plates.


Threading red peppers to make paprika in Serbia. The plant, Capsicum annuum, is the most widely consumed species of pepper, and its varieties include bell peppers, chiles, jalapeños and cayenne.
By VERONIQUE GREENWOOD

Record Salmon in One Place. Barely Any in Another. Alarm All Around.
Historically low runs on the Yukon River have devastating impacts for Alaskans relying on the fish for sustenance and tradition, but Bristol Bay is seeing more sockeye than ever before.
By Victoria Petersen

A GOOD APPETITE
Celebrating Peak Summer
A quick weeknight sauté of ripe corn, tomatoes and seared halloumi is exactly what we love about summer.

Savory halloumi complements the bright flavors of ripe tomatoes and sweet corn in this easy weeknight meal.
Savory halloumi complements the bright flavors of ripe tomatoes and sweet corn in this easy weeknight meal.
By Melissa Clark

For a Better Pizza, Light Up the Grill
J. Kenji López-Alt makes the case for grilled pizza, one of the easiest ways (really!) to get restaurant-quality pizza at home.


Why grilled pizza? It all has to do with high heat and speed.
By J. KENJI LÓPEZ-ALT

TIMES INSIDER
Cooking With a Dash of Science
For the Times food columnist J. Kenji López-Alt, the kitchen is also a lab, where an understanding of a few basics at the molecular level can make a difference in your next dish.
By KATIE VAN SYCKLE

Chilled Dinners for Crazy-Hot Days
Silken tofu with tomatoes and peaches, caprese salad and more satisfying meals for the tail end of summer.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

EAT
The Best Coffee Break Is an Affogato
Made with cold gelato and warm espresso, this treat merges two sublime pleasures in one glass.


By ERIC KIM

How to Stretch Saffron, Without Sacrificing Flavor
Nothing compares to saffron’s unique fragrance and flavor. With this time-honored method, the world’s priciest spice can play a role in daily cooking.

Harvesting saffron, which is derived from the stigma of the crocus flower, is extremely laborious.
Harvesting saffron, which is derived from the stigma of the crocus flower, is extremely laborious.
By Naz Deravian

EAT
Cooking Without an Oven, the Southern Italian Way
Drying zucchini outdoors is ideal, but this agrodolce can be made even without a Mediterranean balcony.


By Gabrielle Hamilton

THE POUR
A Tale of Two Vineyards
Two sites near Paso Robles farm conscientiously, and both make excellent wines. But in the climate change era, one gets enough rain, the other doesn’t.
AmByth Estate, near Paso Robles, does not irrigate. The owners hope it has enough ground water to get through the growing season.
By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

The Lost Leonardo
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Documentary | Directed by Andreas Koefoed
This documentary about the painting “Salvator Mundi” packs the fascination and wallop of an expertly executed fictional thriller.


Robert Simon, left, and Alexander Parish in the documentary “The Lost Leonardo.”
By GLENN KENNY

Days
NYT Critic’s Pick | Unrated | Drama | Directed by Ming-liang Tsai
Tsai Ming-liang’s latest film has little dialogue and no subtitles, but has plenty of story to tell.


Lee Kang-sheng, left, and Anong Houngheuangsy in “Days,” by Tsai Ming-liang.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Why Do American Grocery Stores Still Have an Ethnic Aisle?
This international hodgepodge strikes many shoppers and food purveyors as antiquated. But doing away with it isn’t as easy as it might sound.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

The Endless Pleasures of Vegetarian Cooking
The world of vegetarian cooking is vast and diverse, and our new newsletter celebrates exactly that.


When Tejal Rao cooks vegetarian food at home, it can look like a big pile of lettuce leaves filled with sweet and spicy tofu larb.
By TEJAL RAO

13 Vegetarian Recipes That Give Pasta and Beans a Break
Cooking ruts are real. Get out of them with these fresh, vegetable-forward dishes.


Grilled mushroom skewers from Jocelyn Ramirez
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

The Joy of Plantains
The versatile fruit is as delicious in a skillet with tomatoes and eggs as it is alone, so why not make both?
By SAM SIFTON

The Gloriously Versatile Plantain
Every starch has its secrets. Here’s what makes plantains so exceptional.

Once you know how to harness plantains’ charms, you can use them in all manner of applications.
Once you know how to harness plantains’ charms, you can use them in all manner of applications.
By Yewande Komolafe

Tomato Time!
Whether you toss them with chickpeas, feta and a beautifully crunchy topping, or grate them for paneer con tomate, these recipes will put them to good use.
By TEJAL RAO

13 Grilled Chicken Recipes That Aren’t Boring or Dry
It’s easy to overdo chicken on the grill, but these recipes promise tender, flavorful results.


Alana Kysar’s huli huli chicken.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

EAT
These Strawberry Mini-Cakes Are Perfect Party Food
A first birthday calls for these small tender confections, just right for chubby baby hands.


By DORIE GREENSPAN

A GOOD APPETITE
A Remarkable Almond Cake Made Even Better
Whipping up your own almond paste adds just a few minutes, but smartly innovates on a classic recipe.

This almond cake walks the line between dense and light, with a plush crumb and heady marzipan flavor.
This almond cake walks the line between dense and light, with a plush crumb and heady marzipan flavor.
By Melissa Clark

Cherry Jelly

Way! Way! Way Over the Top Fish and Chips

Four Simple Pasta Sauces

Pasta Grannies

The Man in the Green Hat

FRONT BURNER
Champagne Wishes and Climate Change Dreams
A new documentary on Champagne explores its roots in France, but also how sparkling wines have flourished across the English Channel thanks to global warming.


Domaine Evremond Vineyard in Kent, England, makes sparkling wines.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

WINE SCHOOL
A Rosé by Any Other Color
By Eric Asimov

Nach Waxman, Founder of a Bookstore Where Foodies Flock, Dies at 84
A “kitchen anthropologist,” he created a mecca in Manhattan for chefs, writers, scholars, everyday cooks and anyone else who is, well, hungry for culinary knowledge.


Nach Waxman in 2018 at his Manhattan bookstore, Kitchen Arts & Letters, which he called “a repository of books that are not only what you can’t get elsewhere, but beyond what you knew existed.”
By SAM ROBERTS

Three Headdesk Moments

1. While at the Sioux Chef’s new restaurant — after we found it — and had ordered our bottle of wine, the waitress held up the bottle and explained that it was from an Indigenous Winemaker in California. “Uhm,” I said, “before you go any further, our side of the bottle says, New Zealand.”

2.After having my BP checked at the doctor’s office, I asked if I could calibrate my BP monitor. “We don’t do that.” the nurse replied. “Well,” I said, “The nurse practitioner said you did.”

3. I got out the BP monitor device and asked the nurse, “What’s the millimeter’s of mercury number?” “I don’t know,” she said.