Author Archives: Larry Sanderson

Food! Glorious Food!

Desperate for Workers, Restaurants Turn to Robots
They can make French fries, mix drinks and even clean toilets, and they never ask for a raise. But they also break down.
By JANET MORRISSEY

The Best Olive Oil in the World? This Village Thinks So.
Rameh, a Palestinian town surrounded by olive groves, has long had a reputation for producing especially good oil.
By Reem Kassis

The Smoky Taste of Wok Hei, Without a Wok
Keeping culinary traditions going sometimes requires adapting to the realities of daily life.


Brussels sprouts caramelize and become tender in less than 10 minutes on the stovetop.
By Genevieve Ko

EAT
Fried Oysters Are Delicious. They’re Even Better at Home.
They’re a seafood-shack favorite, but making them yourself can be an almost fine-dining experience.


By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

Roasted Squash Is the Start of Something Beautiful
Turn it into cozy rice porridge or a warm lentil salad, or dress it up with an all-purpose savory topping.
By TEJAL RAO

Tasting Coffee

Pasta

Indian Food from an Archeologist’s Perspective

WTF Is Beer?

WINE SCHOOL
Among Chardonnays, Chablis Is Not Better, Just Different
The 2019 vintage confirms Chablis’s distinctive qualities. As for other chardonnays, blame the winemaker, not the place or the grape.
By Eric Asimov

900 Pages of Drinking Wisdom, a Decade in the Making
The cocktail experts David Wondrich and Noah Rothbaum have completed “The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails.”
By Robert Simonson

WINE SCHOOL
Greek Reds Have Yet to Have Their Moment. Is Now the Time?
An importer wondered why Italian wines have caught on more easily. One reason is simply familiarity. Greek reds can be superb but they are unknown.
By Eric Asimov

In Sonoma County, ‘Regenerative Agriculture’ Is the Next Big Thing
Carbon sequestration, pollinator habitat restoration and simple composting: An increasing number of the region’s winegrowers are going beyond sustainability. Here’s how to see, and taste, the fruits of their labors.
By AMY TARA KOCH

What’s Your Pleasure? How About a T-shirt?
In part because of Covid lockdowns, bars have gotten into the merchandise game.
By ROBERT SIMONSON

Food! Glorious Food!

The 2021 Restaurant List
The 50 places in America we’re most excited about right now.
By THE NEW YORK TIMES FOOD DESK

A New Cookbook by Indigenous People, for Indigenous People
A group of Indigenous chefs is releasing a virtual cookbook featuring digital issues, webinars and videos to reclaim narratives about Native foods.
By PRIYA KRISHNA

F.D.A. Issues Guidelines to Reduce Salt in Foods
The new recommendations are aimed at food manufacturers and restaurants. Some experts say they don’t go far enough.
By ANDREW JACOBS

Stanley Tucci’s Passion Was Acting. Now, It’s Food.
The actor’s new memoir “Taste” explains how a bout with cancer took his passion for ragù and risotto, but also Cuban-Chinese stews and minke whale, to new heights.
By ALEX MARSHALL

A GOOD APPETITE
A Sweet Goodbye to Pepper and Tomato Season
Stewed into a weeknight chicken dish, these vegetables become jammy, rich and so silky.

Tomatoes and peppers make up the backbone of this easy dinner, ready in 45 minutes.
Tomatoes and peppers make up the backbone of this easy dinner, ready in 45 minutes.
By Melissa Clark

EAT
The Haunting Power of Miso-Maple Loaf Cake
Sweet enough to be called cake but savory enough to be as good with a slice of Cheddar as it is with the gloss of warm jam spread over its top.


By DORIE GREENSPAN

It’s the Season for Cider. Here’s How to Drink It.
Added to cocktails, sipped on its own or even turned into a syrup, this drink with a long history is anything but simple.


This gin cider cocktail is an ideal entry point to fall drinking.
By REBEKAH PEPPLER

FRONT BURNER
Gin With a Hint of Mangosteen
Song Cai distills two gins in Hanoi, Vietnam. Try the dry version in a martini and sip the floral on the rocks.


Song Cai Viet Nam Dry Gin, $35.99; Song Cai Viet Nam Floral Gin, $38.99, songcaidistillery.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

ITALY DISPATCH
A Battle of the Bubbles: War Comes to the Prosecco Hills
A Croatian wine, Prosek, seeks an official designation, and Prosecco makers are up in arms. But they also can’t agree on what, exactly, should be called Prosecco.
By JASON HOROWITZ

Jimmy Neary, Whose Irish Pub Became a Power Brokers’ Hub, Dies at 91
Opening on St. Patrick’s Day, 1967, Neary’s attracted politicians, media players, archbishops and more, drawn as much by Mr. Neary himself as by the lamb chops.


Jimmy Neary inside his restaurant on East 57th Street in 2019. When the city’s movers and shakers gathered there, he said, he’d reflect on how far he’d come from the farm fields of his Sligo childhood.
By ALEX VADUKUL

Anne Saxelby, Who Championed Fine American Cheeses, Dies at 40
When she opened her shop on the Lower East Side of Manhattan in 2006, she helped put American cheeses on the map, and on shopping lists.


Anne Saxelby in 2011 in her original cheese shop, at the Essex Market in Manhattan. Her store was a success within months of opening.
By Florence Fabricant

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

V/H/S/94
NYT Critic’s Pick | Horror, Mystery, Thriller | Directed by Simon Barrett, Chloe Okuno, Ryan Prows, Jennifer Reeder, Timo Tjahjanto
This lo-fi horror omnibus is a grisly, gory gem.


A scene from the “Holy Hell” segment of “V/H/S/94.”
By CALUM MARSH

The Last Duel
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Action, Drama, History | Directed by Ridley Scott
Ridley Scott and his all-star cast rip the moldy fig leaf off chivalric romance in a he-said, he-said, she-said spectacle.


Adam Driver, left, and Matt Damon in Ridley Scott’s “The Last Duel.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Son of Monarchs
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama | Directed by Alexis Gambis
This lush Mexican drama tells a story about climate change and cultural identity using the allegory of monarch butterflies’ migration.


By ISABELIA HERRERA

Fever Dream
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama, Horror, Mystery, Thriller | Directed by Claudia Llosa
Claudia Llosa’s adaptation of Samanta Schweblin’s novel casts a spell, evoking more than it explains.


From left, María Valverde and Dolores Fonzi in Claudia Llosa’s “Fever Dream.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

Lamb
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama, Horror, Mystery | Directed by Valdimar Jóhannsson
A strange birth on an Icelandic farm bodes ill for a grieving couple in this eerie debut feature.


Hilmir Snaer Gudnason and Noomi Rapace in “Lamb.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Jacinta
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Jessica Earnshaw
This haunting documentary by Jessica Earnshaw traces the journey of a young woman struggling with addiction after her release from prison.


Jacinta, left, and her mother, Rosemary, pictured in 2016 at Maine Correctional Center in the documentary “Jacinta.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Karen Dalton: In My Own Time
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Richard Peete, Robert Yapkowitz
A documentary chronicles the turbulent life of a singer whose music made a substantial impression on New York’s 1960s folk scene and still resonates today.


Karen Dalton as seen in “Karen Dalton: In My Own Time,” a documentary about her life and music.
By GLENN KENNY

The Guilty
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Crime, Drama, Thriller | Directed by Antoine Fuqua
Jake Gyllenhaal plays an imploding 911 operator in this riveting remake.


Jake Gyllenhaal as Joe Bayler in “The Guilty.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Venom: Let There Be Carnage
PG-13 | Action, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Andy Serkis
Starring Tom Hardy, this superhero sequel turns into a slapstick blood bath about two threesomes both in desperate need of throuples therapy.


Tom Hardy in “Venom: Let There Be Carnage.”
By AMY NICHOLSONH

Titane
R | Drama, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Julia Ducournau
Julia Ducournau’s new film, a prizewinner at Cannes, is a grisly, philosophical thriller that puts the pedal to the metal.


Agathe Rousselle in “Titane,” which won the Palme d’Or at Cannes this year.
By A.O. SCOTT

The Addams Family 2
PG | Animation, Adventure, Comedy, Family, Fantasy, Horror | Directed by Greg Tiernan, Conrad Vernon, Laura Brousseau
America’s creepiest family takes a road trip in this animated sequel, though their antics are far more kooky than spooky.


A scene from “The Addams Family 2,” from the directors Greg Tiernan and Conrad Vernon.
By LENA WILSON

Food! Glorious Food!

PHYS ED
Why Exercise Is More Important Than Weight Loss for a Longer Life
People typically lower their risks of heart disease and premature death far more by gaining fitness than by dropping weight.
By Gretchen Reynolds

Can a Low-Carb Diet Help Your Heart Health?
Overweight people who ate fewer carbohydrates and increased their fat intake had significant improvements in their cardiovascular disease risk factors.
By Anahad O’Connor

EAT
A Perfect Pancake for Breakfast, Lunch or Dinner
Chickpea pancakes, rich with olive oil, are topped with radicchio and roasted mushrooms.

Crispy chickpea pancakes with roasted mushroom salad.
Crispy chickpea pancakes with roasted mushroom salad.
By Tejal Rao

A GOOD APPETITE
This Weeknight Chicken Recipe Has Mass Appeal
Delicate boneless, skinless thighs cook quickly, aren’t prone to drying out and pair beautifully with a garlicky cucumber yogurt.

These deeply flavored, roasted chicken thighs with garlicky cucumber yogurt are juicy and weeknight friendly.
These deeply flavored, roasted chicken thighs with garlicky cucumber yogurt are juicy and weeknight friendly.
By Melissa Clark

FRONT BURNER
A Founding Editor of Saveur Shares What She Learned
In her new memoir, Dorothy Kalins passes on the lessons she picked up while rubbing elbows with world-class chefs.


“The Kitchen Whisperers: Cooking With the Wisdom of Our Friends” by Dorothy Kalins (William Morrow, $26.99).
By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
Cheese Making at Jasper Hill Farm Gets a French Advantage
The creamery is starting to turn out even more of its high-quality cheeses thanks to several copper-lined vats from France.

The brothers and owners of Jasper Hill Farm, Andy, left and Mateo Kehler.
The brothers and owners of Jasper Hill Farm, Andy, left and Mateo Kehler.
By Florence Fabricant

ASK WELL
Can Drinking Alcohol Raise Your Heart Rate?
Drinking can elevate your pulse, which isn’t a concern for most healthy adults, though those with heart rhythm problems should use caution.
By Anahad O’Connor

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

I’m Your Man
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy, Romance, Sci-Fi | Directed by Maria Schrader
Dan Stevens plays a dreamy, pleasure-driven android in this delightful near-future romance.


Maren Eggert and Dan Stevens in “I’m Your Man.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

The Village Detective: a song cycle
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Bill Morrison
Bill Morrison, the poet laureate of lost films, turns the story of footage found near Iceland into a history of a slice of Soviet cinema.


A scene from “The Village Detective: A Song Cycle,” a documentary | Directed by Bill Morrison.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

The Most Beautiful Boy in the World
Documentary | Directed by Kristina Lindström, Kristian Petri
The 1971 film “Death in Venice” showcased the delicate androgyny of Bjorn Andresen’s face and form, but the changes it wrought on his life are indelible.


From left, Luchino Visconti and Bjorn Andresen in the documentary “The Most Beautiful Boy in the World.”
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

Food Scholar, Folk Singer, Blunt Speaker: The Many Lives of Leni Sorensen
An irreverent historian who gets her hands into traditional cooking, farming and crafts is finally, at 79, winning fame with Netflix’s “High on the Hog.”


Dr. Sorensen’s house is filled with books, photographs and vintage kitchen equipment.
By KIM SEVERSON

How to Make an Unloved Job More Attractive? Restaurants Tinker With Wages.
As they struggle to recruit workers, many owners are raising pay. But some are trying to go deeper, to make their business fairer and more humane.
By Jane Black

Baking That’s Simple, but Always Satisfying
In her new monthly column, Genevieve Ko shares easy, streamlined recipes, like handmade crisps and cookies, so you can feed your loved ones (and yourself) effortlessly.


A generous proportion of nuts makes the buttery topping on this apple crisp extra crunchy and rich.
By Genevieve Ko

FRONT BURNER
A Wok Adapter That Really Works
Wokmon funnels the flame from a gas burner, focusing the heat on the pan for better wok hei.


Wokmon, small, $79.95; medium, $84.95; large, $89.95, wokmon.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

The Best Everyday Dals
These nourishing pots of lentils can be as simple or as extravagant as you’d like.
By TEJAL RAO

The Most Adaptable Pesto Pasta
Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe absolutely delivers with whatever substitutions you throw in.
By KRYSTEN CHAMBROT

26 Fall Recipes Our Food Staff Can’t Wait to Make
It’s time for soul-warming food. Here’s what the New York Times Food staff hopes to be cooking.
By NIKITA RICHARDSON

24 Low-Fuss, High-Reward Recipes Ready in 30 Minutes or Less
These weeknight (or any night) meals deliver deliciousness ⁠— and quick.
By KRYSTEN CHAMBROT

A GOOD APPETITE
Pasta Aglio e Olio Gets a Plus One
Adding fried pepperoni to a classic recipe with garlic and olive oil gives it a bacon-like brawniness and a chile kick.


Pepperoni pasta with lemon and garlic.
Melissa Clark

A Wedding Dish Worthy of Weeknight
Chicken steam roast is a centerpiece at Pakistani weddings, but it’s also become a dinnertime staple.

Home cooks have found ways to replicate this tender, juicy, wedding crowd-pleasing chicken.
Home cooks have found ways to replicate this tender, juicy, wedding crowd-pleasing chicken.
By Zainab Shah

Pasta Grannies:

Buttermilk Biscuits to die for:

Capers (In German):

FRONT BURNER
Join the Cider Club
A cidery in Michigan, Virtue Cider, now offers single-varietals in a quarterly subscription service.


Virtue Cider Society, $90 for four bottles, including shipping; each subscription box contains a $25 gift card, virtuecider.com/pages/cider-society.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

THE POUR
Great Oregon Wines Beyond the Willamette Valley
The Columbia River Gorge technically crosses into Washington State, but its energetic wines are pure Oregon in character. Here are four excellent producers.

Poplar trees act as a wind break at the estate vineyard at Analemma in Mosier, Ore., where a stiff breeze blows regularly.
Poplar trees act as a wind break at the estate vineyard at Analemma in Mosier, Ore., where a stiff breeze blows regularly.
By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

In Balanchine’s Classroom
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Connie Hochman
Former ballet dancers grasp at words to describe the genius of George Balanchine in this charming documentary.


George Balanchine, center, as seen in the documentary “In Balanchine’s Classroom.”
By TEO BUGBEE

Little Girl
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Sébastien Lifshitz
This sensitive documentary by the French filmmaker Sébastien Lifshitz naturalistically explores the struggles of a 7-year-old transgender girl.


Sasha is the subject of the documentary “Little Girl.”
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Cry Macho
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Drama, Thriller, Western | Directed by Clint Eastwood
In his latest film, Clint Eastwood drives across Mexico with a troubled young man and a combative rooster.


Good guys: Clint Eastwood and Eduardo Minett in “Cry Macho.”
By A.O. SCOTT

Wife of a Spy
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, History, War | Directed by Kiyoshi Kurosawa
In this latest work by Kiyoshi Kurosawa, a Japanese couple’s relationship is shaped by the forces of churning nationalism that surround it.


Yu Aoi in “Wife of a Spy,” by the Japanese director Kiyoshi Kurosawa.
By GLENN KENNY

— Of Possible Interest —

Saint-Narcisse
Unrated | Comedy, Drama, Romance | Directed by Bruce La Bruce
In this Bruce LaBruce melodrama, two twins, both alike in indecency, fall in love.


Félix-Antoine Duval plays twins in the Bruce LaBruce film “Saint-Narcisse.”
By TEO BUGBEE

Food! Glorious Food!

Breaking Down the ‘Wellness-Industrial Complex,’ an Episode at a Time
The “Maintenance Phase” podcast interrogates the science behind health food trends, fad diets and popular nutritional advice.
By Victoria Petersen

GOOD APPETITE
Need a Little Sunshine? This Weeknight Fish Has It in Spades.
These roasted fillets in sizzling brown butter are zipped up with nori oil, capers and, of course, plenty of lemon.


White fish with a caper-spiked browned butter is a classic, but, here, nori oil adds deep flavor.
By Melissa Clark

A Weeknight Pasta That Finds Freedom in the Familiar
There’s so much opportunity in a kitchen rut, Yotam Ottolenghi writes, and this generous pasta-bean-pesto dish proves just that.


Pesto pasta with white beans and halloumi.
By Yotam Ottolenghi

EAT
Fall in Love With the Dreamy Beans of September
Plump and supple, fresh beans in season have a creamy earthiness.


By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

Say Hello to the Tortizza, a Dinner Life Raft
These tortilla pizzas, topped with crunchy vegetables and salty feta, couldn’t be easier to make.

Crispy-edged and light, like lither thin-crust pizzas, tortizzas can be topped with whatever you like and nothing you don’t.
Crispy-edged and light, like lither thin-crust pizzas, tortizzas can be topped with whatever you like and nothing you don’t.
By Eric Kim

FRONT BURNER
Discussing the Future of Food
The writer Larissa Zimberoff will lead a virtual talk on how labs are growing new plant-based foods and changing what we eat.
“Technically Food: How Labs Are Changing What We Eat,” Sept. 21, 7 to 8 p.m., $10, or $35 including a copy of Ms. Zimberoff’s book, mofad.org/events.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Miso Mellows This Chile Crisp
Okazu Chili Miso is a richer, denser version of the pantry staple, made in Canada.


Okazu Chili Miso, $13.99 for 8.45 ounces, abokichi.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

This Salad Is a Party
Alexa Weibel’s chopped salad with jalapeño-ranch dressing is all excess, no restraint.


By EMILY WEINSTEIN

FRONT BURNER
Zero-Proof Bubbly for Any Celebration
Semblance, made from chardonnay grapes, pairs nicely with food and delivers a zip of carbonation.


Semblance Zero Alcohol Sparkling Wine, $30 for 750 milliliters, semblance.com.

FRONT BURNER
Gin and Tonics That Change With the Seasons
The four “elevated” cocktails at Sona in the Flatiron district make flavor changes for cooler autumn weather.


By Florence Fabricant

WINE SCHOOL
Love Wine? Here Are 10 Ways to Appreciate It Even More.
For seven years, Wine School has examined wines from all sides to help readers learn to talk and think about them. Here are some key takeaways.

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

The Card Counter
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Action, Drama, Thriller | Directed by Paul Schrader
Oscar Isaac, Tiffany Haddish and Willem Dafoe star in the latest head trip from Paul Schrader, a story about betting on life.


Inscribing his book of life: Oscar Isaac in Paul Schrader’s “The Card Counter.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Azor
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Andreas Fontana
In this low-key shocker set in Argentina in 1980, a Swiss banker travels through a world that he doesn’t seem to know is ablaze.


Danger is everywhere: A scene from Andreas Fontana’s “Azor.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Fire Music
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Tom Surgal
The beautiful souls that created free jazz — including Ornette Coleman, Cecil Taylor, Don Cherry and Carla Bley — light up this new documentary from Tom Surgal.


Ornette Coleman as seen in the documentary “Fire Music.”
By GLENN KENNY