Author Archives: Larry Sanderson

Food! Glorious Food!

That Dinner Tab Has Soared. Here Are All the Reasons.
As diners everywhere suffer the shock of inflation, we tally up the many costs and forces driving up menu prices at a single restaurant.
By PRIYA KRISHNA and UMI SYAM

In Italy, Where Pizza Was Born, Domino’s Bows Out
The company entered the Italian market in 2015, but seems to have been done in by a proliferation of home-delivery food during the pandemic and a desire for more artisanal pies.
By ELISABETTA POVOLEDO

Corny on Main
Sometimes you just can’t get enough of those sweet, fresh summer cobs.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

Slow-Cooked Lamb That Can Stand the Heat
A meaty main, cooked indoors or out, anchors David Tanis’s August menu, book-ended by a light tomato-eggplant salad and an effervescent fruit compote.


A tomato salad and eggplant roasted over an open flame, then served over flatbreads, are an ideal complement to this lamb dish.
By David Tanis
Recipes: Tomato Salad With Smoky Eggplant Flatbread | Slow-Cooked Lamb Shoulder With Green Beans | Summer Fruit Compote

In Search of Mexican Pizza
Taco Bell may have made the name famous, but this pizza — made with leavened dough and traditional Mexican ingredients — has become a genre all its own.


The Chicana pie, topped with tomatillo sauce, mozzarella, black beans and chipotle-spiced chicken, goes into the oven at Rosario’s Pizzeria in South Philadelphia.
By REGAN STEPHENS

24 Freezer-Friendly Recipes to Cook for New (and Tired) Parents
A collection of ready-to-eat meals is almost as good as a full night’s sleep.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

Yotam Ottolenghi Has Made Thousands of Meringues. This Is His Favorite.
There are many variations of the simple, elegant sweet — but pavlova with seasonal fruit is among the best.


By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI
Recipe: Sunset Pavlova With Sweet Vinegar and Rosemary

The Perfect S’more Is Practically Burned and a Little Salty
Potato chips, Nutella and even Peeps can step into this campfire classic, but success lies in its balance of flavors and a healthy char.


In an ideal classic s’more, the marshmallow is oozy all the way through and charred on the outside.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY
Recipe: S’mores

THE POUR
The Problem With Wine Bottles
They may be a perfect container for aging wine, but glass bottles contribute enormously to climate change.
By Eric Asimov

Georges Briguet, Who Presided Over Le Périgord, Dies at 85
The owner of a classic French restaurant in Manhattan for a half-century, he welcomed his well-heeled guests by name, offering them a serene urban oasis on the far East Side.


Georges Briguet in 2015. He turned Le Périgord into a quiet oasis for unhurried New Yorkers and out-of-town regulars of a certain age and class.
By SAM ROBERTS

Another Election

I gave up on sleeping and got up shortly before 4:00 am. I needed to be at the election headquarters by 5:30 am, and since it’s a long day, I wanted coffee and something to eat before it started.

NYT Critic’s Pic Movie(s)

Faith
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Documentary | Directed by Valentina Pedicini
Valentina Pedicini’s final documentary tracks the “Warriors of Light” — their leader, and their monks and mothers, in Italy.


A scene from “Faith,” a documentary by Valentina Pedicini.
By GLENN KENNY

Mija
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, Music | Directed by Isabel Castro
In this documentary, a new generation of Mexican American musicians reflect the nuances of their realities on both sides of the border.


Jacks Haupt in the documentary “Mija.”
By BEANDREA JULY

— Of Possible Interest —

They/Them
Horror, Thriller | Directed by John Logan
A masked ax-murderer runs amok at a gay conversion camp in this flimsy, Kevin Bacon-starring slasher flick.
By CALUM MARSH

Bliss
Drama, Romance | Directed by Henrika Kull
Two sex workers fall in love in this low-key L.G.B.T.Q. drama from Germany.
By BEATRICE LOAYZA

Prey
R | Action, Drama, Horror, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Dan Trachtenberg
The “Predator” franchise gets a prequel and the Comanche Nation gets a space invader in this unremarkable adventure.
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Food! Glorious Food!

From Pizza to Dip, Chips and Popcorn, Pickle Is Summer’s Big Flavor
For people with a sweet-and-sour tooth, there’s never been a greater pick of pickle-flavored possibilities, thanks to pickle spice.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

Food Is Identity. For Korean Chefs Who Were Adopted, It’s Complicated.
Raised in the U.S., they’re exploring a heritage they didn’t grow up with through restaurant cooking — and finding both fulfillment and criticism.
By ELYSE INAMINE

How to Cook in a Vacation Rental (and Still Enjoy Your Vacation)
The most enjoyable meals on a trip may just be the ones you make yourself with these tips for planning, shopping and using up every ingredient.
By Ali Slagle

A Creamy, Spicy Dip Unlike Any Other
The Houston chef Dawn Burrell brings her biography to everything she cooks, like her creamed collard greens spiked with chile sauce.


By BRYAN WASHINGTON
Recipe: Creamy Collard-Greens Dip With Shito

FRONT BURNER
Four Cheeses That Can’t Be Beat
These cheeses took top honors at the American Cheese Society’s annual competition.
“In first place was Whitney, a Raclette-style cheese from Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro Bend, Vt. Second place went to two cheeses: Flagsheep, a semihard blend of cow and sheep milks by Beecher’s Handmade Cheese in Seattle; and Bamboozle, a washed-rind blend of goat and cow milks from Rodeo Farm & Dairy in Allison Park, Pa. In third place was another Jasper Hill Farm cheese, Greensward, a soft-ripened washed rind beauty made in collaboration with Murray’s Cheese in New York.”
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

Tomato Mode
Fresh summer tomatoes lend themselves beautifully to some exceptional no-cook and low-cook meals.
By EMILY WEINSTEIN

A GOOD APPETITE
Take Your Cakes to the Upside Down
You can’t beat a classic pineapple upside-down cake, but juicy peaches, plums, berries and even bananas are just waiting to step in, Melissa Clark writes.


Other fruit like stone fruit, berries and bananas can make upside-down cakes as good or even better than the usual pineapple.
By MELISSA CLARK
Recipes: Pineapple Upside-Down Cake With Pecans | Peach Upside-Down Cake | Berry Upside-Down Cake | Banana Upside-Down Cake

WINE SCHOOL
Should Red Wines Be Served Cool?
The proper serving temperature is nuanced, depending on the style of the wine, the vintage, the weather and your own personal taste.
By Eric Asimov

WINE SCHOOL
Dry German Riesling: An Eternal Conundrum
Many people are convinced that they do not like the wines. Are they simply a niche interest, or is their obvious appeal yet to be widely understood?


Brand Pfalz Riesling Trocken 2021, 12 percent (Vom Boden, Brooklyn, N.Y.) 1 liter, $18, Dreissigacker Rheinhessen Riesling Trocken 2021, 12 percent (Schatzi, Milan, N.Y.) $22, Georg Breuer Rheingau Estate Lorch 2020, 12 percent, (Skurnik Wines, New York) $35
By Eric Asimov

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

A Love Song
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG | Romance | Directed by Max Walker-Silverman
Two former childhood friends rekindle their connection in this sweetly hopeful story of romantic longing.


Wes Studi, left, with Dale Dickey in “A Love Song.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Resurrection
NYT Critic’s Pick | Crime, Drama, Horror, Mystery, Thriller | Directed by Andrew Semans
A successful single mother encounters a terrifying man from her past in this crazily enjoyable horror movie.


Rebecca Hall in “Resurrection.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

We Met in Virtual Reality
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Joe Hunting
This innovative documentary tags along with people who are finding happiness in a graphical online world.


A still from “We Met in Virtual Reality.”
By NICOLAS RAPOLD

Food! Glorious Food!

Melting Profits Threaten the Ice Cream Man
Inflation and its rising fuel prices have pushed some ice cream truck owners to the brink.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

The Choco Taco, Ice Cream Snack of American Summers, Is Discontinued
A fixture of ice cream trucks and convenience stores is no more after Klondike said it would focus on other products.
By DANIEL VICTOR

The Jewish Deli: An American Tale Told in Pickles and Pastrami
“I’ll Have What She’s Having,” a traveling exhibit on the Jewish delicatessen, looks back at a vibrant institution fueled by immigration and irresistible food.


In a display of history and nostalgia, the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles is memorializing a fading cuisine: the Jewish delicatessen.
By Adam Nagourney

Welcome to Chicago, Hot Dog Town, U.S.A.
Just don’t even think about asking for ketchup.


The standard form of the Chicago hot dog is available at stands all over town and binds the city together.
By ERIC KIM
Recipe: Chicago-Style Hot Dogs

The Irresistible Thrill of Kung Pao
Chiles and a sweetened soy-vinegar sauce define the dish, but you can make it a million ways at home.


Flashes of chile heat in a salty, sour, sweet sauce make every bite of kung pao a little thrill.
By GENEVIEVE KO
Recipes: Easy Kung Pao Chicken | Kung Pao Shrimp

Eggplant Five Ways
Gain confidence cooking this summer icon with these essential techniques.
By TEJAL RAO

20 Easy Salads forHot Summer Days
Using vibrant vegetables and fruits at peak freshness is a great way to eat well — and inexpensively — throughout the season.
By Cathy Lo

Cooling Salads for Hot Days
We have scores of recipes to help you avoid the stove.
By SAM SIFTON

19 No-Cook Recipes for a Heat Wave
Forgoing the stove or the oven doesn’t mean missing out on flavor.
By Nikita Richardson

How to Pack the Perfect Beach Cooler
With the right recipes and a few expert tips, a picnic in the sand can be a stress-free treat.


A day at the beach is made all the more enjoyable with a thoughtfully packed cooler full of sandwiches, salads and dips that can withstand a day on ice.
By Naz Deravian
Recipes: Fresh Ranch Dip | Artichoke and Olive Farro Salad | Ham and Jam Sandwiches | Caramelized Brown Butter Rice Krispies Treats

20 Wines Under $20: Great Summer Values
The selection in stores is a little thin as the global economy has slowed, but plenty of great seasonal bottles are still available.


By ERIC ASIMOV

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
Diana Kennedy’s Complicated Relationship With Mexican Cuisine
The brilliant and opinionated author, who died on Sunday, chronicled the recipes and culinary traditions of Mexico. Our critic considers her legacy.


Diana Kennedy, whose 1972 book, “The Cuisines of Mexico” was a breakout hit, helped introduce the diversity of Mexican home cooking to an American and British reading public
By TEJAL RAO

Diana Kennedy, Authority on Mexican Cooking, Dies at 99
Her books taught Americans about the regional nature of the cuisine. Also: “There is always someone who wants to know how to clean an iguana, so why not?”


Diana Kennedy at her home in Mexico in 1989. The Mexican food known to most Americans, she wrote, was a travesty.
By William Grimes

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Nope
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Horror, Mystery, Sci-Fi, Thriller | Directed by Jordan Peele
Jordan Peele’s genre-melting third feature stars Daniel Kaluuya and Keke Palmer as brother-and-sister horse wranglers defending the family ranch from an extraterrestrial threat.


From left, Daniel Kaluuya, Keke Palmer and Brandon Perea in “Nope,” the latest feature from the director Jordan Peele.
By A.O. SCOTT

A Dark, Dark Man
NYT Critic’s Pick | Crime, Drama | Directed by Adilkhan Yerzhanov
This exceptionally grim police procedural recalls films like Bong Joon Ho’s “Memories of Murder” and Nuri Bilge Ceylan’s “Once Upon a Time in Anatolia.”


Dinara Baktybayeva plays a reporter in “A Dark, Dark Man.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

Aftershock
NYT Critic’s Pick | TV-MA | Documentary | Directed by Paula Eiselt, Tonya Lewis Lee
Black mothers are dying from childbirth at alarming rates. A new documentary explains why.


Shawnee Benton Gibson and Bruce McIntyre, at right, are central figures in the documentary “Aftershock,” from the directors Paula Eiselt and Tonya Lewis Lee.
By BEANDREA JULY

— Of Possible Interest —

The Day the Music Died/American Pie
Documentary | Directed by Mark Moormann
Don McLean tries to clear up some misapprehensions about the eight-an-a-half-minute song that took on a life of its own, in this documentary.
By GLENN KENNY

Anything’s Possible
PG-13 | Romance | Directed by Billy Porter
Self-preservation and allyship are also wrapped up in this sweet young adult romantic comedy, which is Billy Porter’s feature film directorial debut.
By KYLE TURNER

Food! Glorious Food!

On Gum Drop Grapes and Other Fruits Designed to Taste Like Candy
Advances in plant breeding and indoor growing have led to produce that promises to be perfectly sweet.


Clockwise from top right: Grapery Cotton Candy grapes and Moon Drop grapes; a Del Monte Pinkglow pineapple; Driscoll’s Berry Big strawberry and Rosé strawberries; Wish Farms Pink-A-Boo pineberries; Driscoll’s Sweetest Batch blueberries; and a Dapple Dandy Pluots.
By Alex Beggs

FRONT BURNER
A Banner Year for Bristol Bay’s Sockeye Salmon Harvest
This year’s catch in Alaska is expected to be among the largest on record; Pride of Bristol Bay is a reliable source for delivery in September.


Chris Dabney, a fisherman in Bristol Bay, with a sockeye salmon.

bristolbaysockeye.org; to order, prideofbristolbay.com.
By Florence Fabricant

ONE GOOD MEAL
From Adam Pendleton, Pancakes That Taste Like Perfection
When it comes to cooking, the artist brings an attention to detail he normally saves for his studio practice.


The artist Adam Pendleton in the kitchen of his apartment in Brooklyn’s Fort Greene neighborhood.
By Coco Romack

The Burger J. Kenji López-Alt Can’t Improve (Only Tweak)
Oklahoma onion burgers, which cook in moments, are so perfect in their simplicity that they can’t be better, he writes.


Invented during the Great Depression, Oklahoma onion burgers can stretch ground beef without sacrificing flavor.
By J. Kenji López-Alt
Recipe: Oklahoma Onion Burgers

20 Easy Salads for Hot Summer Days
Using vibrant vegetables and fruits at peak freshness is a great way to eat well — and inexpensively — throughout the season.


By Cathy Lo

A GOOD APPETITE
Make the Most of Too Much Summer Squash With the Zucchini Slice
Popular in Australia and New Zealand, this cross between a frittata and savory quick bread is perhaps even better than either on its own.


Cheesy, eggy and chock-full of vegetables, this slice is a perfect thing to do with a surfeit of summer zucchini.
By Melissa Clark
Recipe: Australian Zucchini Slice

The Case for Grilling Cucumbers
The cucumber’s fresh crunch has gone, but in its place is something more substantial to deliver a smoky, savory flavor.


By Yotam Ottolenghi
Recipe: Grilled Cucumbers With Tomato-Cardamom Dressing and Mozzarella

NEWSLETTER
The Veggie
Summery Marinated Vegetables
Grilled and raw vegetables shine when they soak in deliciously seasoned oils and vinegars.
By Tejal Rao

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Marx Can Wait
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Marco Bellocchio
In a moving new documentary, the Italian filmmaker Marco Bellocchio gathers his fascinating, aging family members to make sense of their brother’s suicide.


Three of the Bellocchio brothers, from left: Marco, the filmmaker; Alberto; and Camillo, who killed himself at 29. In “Marx Can Wait,” the family’s surviving members delve into Camillo’s death.
By A.O. SCOTT

Don’t Make Me Go
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama | Directed by Hannah Marks
John Cho and Mia Isaac play a father and daughter on a road trip in this twisty drama, which explores the gulf between familiarity and intimacy.


John Cho and Mia Isaac in “Don’t Make Me Go.”
By AMY NICHOLSON

She Will
NYT Critic’s Pick | Thriller | Directed by Charlotte Colbert
A traumatized star is supernaturally primed for vengeance in this gorgeously ghostly thriller.

Alice Krige in “She Will.”
Alice Krige in “She Will.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULI

— Of Possible Interest —

The Deer King
R | Animation, Action, Adventure | Directed by Masashi Ando, Masayuki Miyaji
A series of Japanese fantasy novels is the basis for this tenderly wrought and brilliantly animated adventure movie.
By CONCEPCIÓN DE LEÓN

Persuasion
PG | Drama, Romance | Directed by Carrie Cracknell
Dakota Johnson smirks her way through a Netflix adaptation of the rekindled romance in Jane Austen’s last novel, our critic writes.
By TEO BUGBEE

Food! Glorious Food!

The Business Lunch May Be Going Out of Business
As remote work persists and business deals are sealed online, many upscale restaurants that catered to the nation’s downtown office crowd are canceling the meal.
By BRETT ANDERSON

Restaurants Face an Extortion Threat: A Bad Rating on Google
Emails sent to dozens of restaurants, including those with Michelin stars, threaten a barrage of one-star reviews unless owners pay.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

In Portugal, Taking a Dive Into Sardines
The canned fish are having a moment in the food world. A tour of a canning factory in Porto gives an up-close view of a century-old business.
By LILY PUCKETT

What Amazon Prime’s Deal With Grubhub Means for Consumers
A new collaboration between the retailing giant and the food distribution service includes free restaurant delivery for Prime members.
By CHRISTINA MORALES

In ‘The Bear’ on Hulu, a Kitchen Staff Is Nearly Eaten Alive
The new FX television show is one of the most vivid, authentic portrayals of what it’s like to work in food service.
By Julia Moskin

Fried Okra, Beyond the Batter
The classic Southern dish does more than just nourish: It tells a bigger story of the Black American cooks who have preserved its legacy, while creating their own versions.


There’s a familiar structure to fried okra: Textured, forest-green pods are typically sliced into small rounds, coated in a seasoned batter and fried to a cook’s liking.
By KAYLA STEWART
Recipes: Pan-Fried Okra | Fried Okra With Rémoulade

The Case for Grilling Cucumbers
The cucumber’s fresh crunch has gone, but in its place is something more substantial to deliver a smoky, savory flavor.


By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

A GOOD APPETITE
A Sheet-Pan Chicken Recipe for Lovers of Sweet and Savory
Roasted chicken thighs are paired with tangy sour cherries and finished with a creamy, cooling cucumber yogurt in this balanced weeknight meal.


Sour cherries give this sheet-pan dinner a tangy flavor and rosy hue.
By Melissa Clark
Recipe: Chicken Thighs With Sour Cherries and Cucumber Yogurt

Can taking a pill really stop you getting a hangover? There’s one way to find out
Even at £30 a packet, the Myrkl ‘pre-drinking’ pill sold out before its UK launch. I spent four days finding out if it does indeed reduce the effects of alcohol
Tim Dowling

TRILOBITES
Don’t Let Your Wine Go to the Grocery Store Naked
Recent research helps explain how clear bottles can result in wine that smells like “wet dog” and “boiled cabbage.”
By OLIVER WHANG