Author Archives: Larry Sanderson

Food! Glorious Food!

THE POUR
Robert Mondavi Changed Wine. His Grandson Aims to Change Farming.

Carlo Mondavi takes on climate change by pushing regenerative and organic agriculture, with the help of a smart electric tractor.
Carlo Mondavi with a Monarch electric tractor. He believes it will help to make organic farming less expensive than farming with chemicals.
By Eric Asimov

Hawaii’s ‘Local Food,’ a Rich Mix That Isn’t Strictly Hawaiian
A blend of influences and ingredients from the many groups who have settled there, this cooking tradition is still sparking creativity, and some complications.
By Elyse Inamine

Why Egusi Is More Than Just a Great Soup
Incredibly popular across West Africa, the dish can vary from cook to cook and place to place, but, for Yewande Komolafe, it’s a quick link to the past.

A blue rimmed bowl filled with a reddish stewy egusi and a doughy swallow sits on an aqua ikat print backdrop.
Stewed leafy greens and mushrooms are bathed in a nutty, creamy sauce of ground egusi seeds for this classic dish.
By Yewande Komolafe

EAT
These Fish Tacos Couldn’t Be More Brilliant
Golden pineapple and a deep-red marinade make this dish pop with color and flavor.

Three fish tacos with pineapple pico de gallo on a yellow plate, on a wooden countertop.
By Eric Kim

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Asteroid City
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Comedy, Drama, Romance | Directed by Wes Anderson
In his latest film, Wes Anderson and his all-stars go meta with a TV show about a theatrical play that, in turn, is about a small town, U.S.A.


Grace Edwards, left, and Scarlett Johansson in “Asteroid City.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Elemental
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG | Animation, Adventure, Comedy, Drama, Family, Fantasy, Sci-Fi | Directed by Peter Sohn
The latest movie from Disney/Pixar tucks a romantic comedy inside a high-concept premise. It’s smoldering and splashy.


Wade (voiced by Mamoudou Athie) and Ember (Leah Lewis), center, in “Elemental.”
By AMY NICHOLSON

— Of Possible Interest —

The Blackening
R | Comedy, Horror, Thriller | Directed by Tim Story
With more jokes than jump scares, this comedic horror film is as tartly amusing as it is provocative.
By LISA KENNEDY

The Flash
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Fantasy, Sci-Fi | Directed by Andy Muschietti
In the latest DC Comics blowout, Ezra Miller suits up as the speedy superhero alongside special guests like Batman (hello, Michael Keaton).
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Stan Lee
Documentary, Biography | Directed by David Gelb
Disappointingly, this creation story of Lee gives way to the characters he helped create.
By AMY NICHOLSON

Food! Glorious Food!

EATING LAB
Are all calories created equal? Your gut microbes don’t think so.
For weight loss, whether you feed your gut microbiome high- or low-quality calories makes a difference, a new study suggests
By Anahad O’Connor

Pyrex and Instant Pot maker files for bankruptcy protection in US
Instant Brands, which blames rising interest rates for financial problems, will continue to serve retailers
Jasper Jolly

EAT
How Yotam Ottolenghi Comes Up With a New Recipe
Familiar ingredients — peppers, eggplants, tomatoes — lay the foundation for creations like this Moroccan dip.


By Yotam Ottolenghi

A GOOD APPETITE
This Easy Lemon Tart Has a Timesaving Twist
A press-in-the-pan shortbread crust and an easy lemon curd filling make this stunning pastry a snap to bake.

An overhead image of a sliced bright-yellow tart on a white platter against a background.
A bracing lemon curd is at the heart of this classic tart.
By Melissa Clark

NEWSLETTER
The Veggie
Grilled Vegetables for Maximum Summer Whimsy
Try these three easy techniques to get more from your market haul.
By Tanya Sichynsky

4 nonalcoholic bitters for even better zero-proof cocktails
By Allison Robicelli

Food! Glorious Food

The QR-Code Menu Is Being Shown the Door
A dining innovation that once looked like the future has worn out its welcome with many restaurateurs, customers and servers who say it takes the joy out of dining.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

TRILOBITES
In Search of an Antidote for Poisonous Mushrooms
Researchers are finding clues to a potential remedy for consumption of the death cap species, a potentially lethal mushroom.
By ALLA KATSNELSON

THE POUR
Weed Wine Is an Underground Favorite. Can It Survive the Gummy Era?
It’s delicious, but prohibited commercially, even where cannabis is legal. That hasn’t stopped winemakers from sharing recipes.
By ERIC ASIMOV

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

You Hurt My Feelings
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Comedy, Drama | Directed by Nicole Holofcener
The director Nicole Holofcener’s characters are known for their brazen honesty. But it’s dishonesty that drives her new film, starring Julia Louis-Dreyfus.


Tobias Menzies and Julia Louis-Dreyfus in “You Hurt My Feelings,” the director Nicole Holofcener’s latest comedy.
By WESLEY MORRIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Will-o’-the-Wisp
Unrated | Comedy, Fantasy, Musical, Romance, Sci-Fi | Directed by João Pedro Rodrigues
Or, at least, he kinda-sorta tries to rebel in this romantic, futuristic fable from the Portuguese director João Pedro Rodrigues.
By AMY NICHOLSON

The Little Mermaid
PG | Adventure, Family, Fantasy, Musical, Romance | Directed by Rob Marshall
Disney’s live-action remake, with Halle Bailey starring as Ariel and a diverse cast, is a dutiful corrective with noble intentions and little fun.
By WESLEY MORRIS

Food! Glorious Food!

36 HOURS
Vancouver
By Remy Scalza Photographs by Jennilee Marigomen

James Beard Foundation, Whose Awards Honor Chefs, Is Now Investigating Them
The group behind “the Oscars of the food world” created a new process to weed out nominees with problematic pasts. But that process has troubles of its own.
By BRETT ANDERSON and JULIA MOSKIN

Diners Are Fed Up With Minimal Service. Will a Little Warmth Win Them Back?
As prices rise and seasoned help is harder to find, some restaurants are trying to provide a more welcoming experience for their underwhelmed guests.
Service is relaxed and personal at S & P Lunch in Manhattan, a tight space where close interaction between the staff and customers is almost inevitable.Credit…Nico Schinco for The New York Times
By Kim Severson

A GOOD APPETITE
This Sweet-Tart Roasted Salmon Is Ready in No Time
Paired with red rhubarb, these brilliantly pink fillets are on the table in 25 minutes.

An overhead image of a parchment paper-lined sheet tray topped with salmon fillets. They’re finished with roasted pieces of rhubarb and sliced scallion greens.
Rhubarb is an incredible foil to rich ingredients, like salmon. Here, it’s roasted alongside fillets, to cut through the fish’s richness.
By Melissa Clark

How to Make the Juiciest, Most Succulent Grilled Chicken
Cooking skin-on legs over moderate heat yields gorgeously charred skin and tender meat, Genevieve Ko writes.

An overhead image of a white platter topped with crisp-skinned chicken legs.
A simple soy glaze brushed on at the end of cooking enhances this grilled chicken.
By Genevieve Ko

The Best Olive Oil You Can Buy at the Store
By Michael Sullivan

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Past Lives
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG-13 | Drama, Romance | Directed by Celine Song
Celine Song’s film debut, starring Greta Lee, follows two childhood friends who share a wistful kind of love across two decades and two continents.


In “Past Lives,” Teo Yoo, left, and Greta Lee play childhood friends who reconnect in New York City.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Spider-Man: Across the Spider-Verse
NYT Critic’s Pick | PG | Animation, Action, Adventure, Comedy, Family, Fantasy, Sci-Fi | Directed by Joaquim Dos Santos, Kemp Powers, Justin K. Thompson
This charming sequel to the 2018 animated movie expands the multiverse concept, without shamelessly capitalizing on fan service.


Miles Morales (voiced again by Shameik Moore) is joined by countless Spider-Men in this sequel.
By MAYA PHILLIPS

After Sherman
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Jon Sesrie Goff
A New York-based filmmaker wades into the deep waters of his Gullah Geechee heritage and South Carolina roots.


A scene in “After Sherman,” a documentary | Directed by Jon-Sesrie Goff. “I’m Gullah, born in exile,” Goff says.
By LISA KENNEDY

Reality
NYT Critic’s Pick | TV-MA | Drama | Directed by Tina Satter
A new docudrama starring Sydney Sweeney as Reality Winner is gripping, even as it strips a true story of its political context.


Sydney Sweeney as Reality Winner in the docudrama “Reality.”
By AMY NICHOLSON

— Of Possible Interest —

Being Mary Tyler Moore
Documentary | Directed by James Adolphus
This charming documentary aims to peek under the smile of a groundbreaking television star.

Food! Glorious Food!

A Gay Riot at a Doughnut Shop? The Legend Has Some Holes.
As Los Angeles prepares to commemorate the long-gone Cooper Do-nuts, accounts of a renowned 1959 uprising at one of its stores are being called into question.
By ERIK PIEPENBURG

36 HOURS
36 Hours in Los Angeles
Locals know the best spots are hiding in plain sight in the City of Angels.
By GENEVIEVE KO

The Full List of the 2023 James Beard Chef and Restaurant Award Winners
After facing questions about its new processes, the James Beard Foundation held its annual gala in Chicago on Monday.
By Julia Moskin

Kid-Approved Recipes
Move over Pete Wells. The toughest food critic is an 8-year-old.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

A GOOD APPETITE
This Sweet-Tart Roasted Salmon Is Ready in No Time
Paired with red rhubarb, these brilliantly pink fillets from Melissa Clark are on the table in 25 minutes.


Rhubarb is an incredible foil to rich ingredients, like salmon. Here, it’s roasted alongside fillets, to cut through the fish’s richness.
By MELISSA CLARK

THE POUR
When Wine Becomes Crucial to Cultural Identity
Throughout history, and even now in politically unstable regions, autocrats seek to control wine. For many people, it is worth defending.
By Eric Asimov

Andrew Bellucci, Pizza Visionary With a Troubled Past, Dies at 59
His obsession with recreating the original New York pizza helped revive a classic and inspire a generation of chefs. But his ambitions led to conflicts and, once, prison.


Andrew Bellucci at Bellucci’s Pizzeria in Astoria, Queens, later renamed Andrew Bellucci’s Pizzeria after a trademark dispute. In the 1990s, he became one of the first chefs in city to achieve fame for pizza, inspiring a wave of neo-traditionalist pizza chefs.
By Pete Wells

Ronnie Cummins, Scourge of Genetically Modified Food, Dies at 76
A lifelong protester, he became a leading promoter of organic food and a forceful critic of a food industry that genetically engineers what it produces and sells.


Ronnie Cummins, co-founder of the Organic Consumers Association, in 2017 in a garden near the organization’s headquarters in Finland, Minn.
By RICHARD SANDOMIR

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Blue Jean
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Georgia Oakley
School bullying rattles the life of a closeted lesbian teacher in this accomplished period drama.


Rosy McEwen in “Blue Jean.”
By TEO BUGBEE

Scarlet
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama, History, Romance | Directed by Pietro Marcello
In a new film from the director of “Martin Eden,” pastoral interludes of domestic life in the wake of World War I alternate with views of the world beyond.


Juliette Jouan in “Scarlet,” directed by Pietro Marcello. The film is an adaptation of the Russian novel “Scarlet Sails.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Aloners
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Hong Seong-eun
The director Hong Sung-eun’s debut feature is a quietly tragic tale of alienation and the ennui of modern life.


Gong Seung-Yeon, left, and Jung Da-eun in “Aloners.”
By BRANDON YU

— Of Possible Interest —

Daliland
Biography, Drama | Directed by Mary Harron
Ben Kingsley plays Salvador Dalí, the man and the mustachioed myth, as he contends with his demanding wife and the far more voracious art world.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

All Man: The International Male Story
Documentary | Directed by Bryan Darling, Jesse Finley Reed
The catalog was more than a place to peruse the latest fashions. It reshaped society’s definitions of masculinity.
By ELISABETH VINCENTELLI

Transformers: Rise of the Beasts
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Sci-Fi | Directed by Steven Caple Jr.
Things start out fun with this prequel, but frantic plot mechanics might steer your interest into a ditch.
By AMY NICHOLSON

Food! Glorious Food!

FOOD MATTERS
Why Do American Diners Have Such a Limited Palate for Textures?
Complex taste sensations play a crucial role in food around the world — but have long been shunned stateside.
By Ligaya Mishan

3 Quick Breakfast Waffles That Meet You Where You Are
Chocolaty, nutty or savory and full of umami, each one is sure to please.

An overhead image of a blue plate holding four pieces of waffles against a floral background. The waffles are covered in maple syrup and studded with blueberries.
These nutty buckwheat waffles are naturally gluten-free and bright from lemon zest.Credit…Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Roscoe Betsill. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
By Yewande Komolafe

EAT
Yotam Ottolenghi Celebrates Spring With Asparagus
This salad is enlivened by a sweet-and-spicy coconut sprinkle.


By Yotam Ottolenghi

FRONT BURNER
El Bulli’s Explores Gastronomy in an Expansive Series of Books
Read the El Bulli Foundation’s newest books on wine, pick up a Sweeney Todd apron and more food news.

Bullipedia Wine Sapiens, Volumes I and II, 120 euros per volume ($132.46), elbullistore.com.
By Florence Fabricant

THE POUR
10 Boxed Wines That Are Really Good, Seriously
Thoughtful winemakers, motivated by environmental concerns, are turning to boxes.

A collection of boxed wines, some with a label on plain cardboard and others in with colorful illustrations.
By Eric Asimov