Food! Glorious Food!

A Gay Riot at a Doughnut Shop? The Legend Has Some Holes.
As Los Angeles prepares to commemorate the long-gone Cooper Do-nuts, accounts of a renowned 1959 uprising at one of its stores are being called into question.
By ERIK PIEPENBURG

36 HOURS
36 Hours in Los Angeles
Locals know the best spots are hiding in plain sight in the City of Angels.
By GENEVIEVE KO

The Full List of the 2023 James Beard Chef and Restaurant Award Winners
After facing questions about its new processes, the James Beard Foundation held its annual gala in Chicago on Monday.
By Julia Moskin

Kid-Approved Recipes
Move over Pete Wells. The toughest food critic is an 8-year-old.
By TANYA SICHYNSKY

A GOOD APPETITE
This Sweet-Tart Roasted Salmon Is Ready in No Time
Paired with red rhubarb, these brilliantly pink fillets from Melissa Clark are on the table in 25 minutes.


Rhubarb is an incredible foil to rich ingredients, like salmon. Here, it’s roasted alongside fillets, to cut through the fish’s richness.
By MELISSA CLARK

THE POUR
When Wine Becomes Crucial to Cultural Identity
Throughout history, and even now in politically unstable regions, autocrats seek to control wine. For many people, it is worth defending.
By Eric Asimov

Andrew Bellucci, Pizza Visionary With a Troubled Past, Dies at 59
His obsession with recreating the original New York pizza helped revive a classic and inspire a generation of chefs. But his ambitions led to conflicts and, once, prison.


Andrew Bellucci at Bellucci’s Pizzeria in Astoria, Queens, later renamed Andrew Bellucci’s Pizzeria after a trademark dispute. In the 1990s, he became one of the first chefs in city to achieve fame for pizza, inspiring a wave of neo-traditionalist pizza chefs.
By Pete Wells

Ronnie Cummins, Scourge of Genetically Modified Food, Dies at 76
A lifelong protester, he became a leading promoter of organic food and a forceful critic of a food industry that genetically engineers what it produces and sells.


Ronnie Cummins, co-founder of the Organic Consumers Association, in 2017 in a garden near the organization’s headquarters in Finland, Minn.
By RICHARD SANDOMIR