Food! Glorious Food!

Investors Bet on Foie Gras Grown From Cells in a Lab
Gourmey, a start-up based in Paris, received an additional $10 million in seed funding this week. The company hopes to find a market in the United States amid growing concerns about animal cruelty.

A start-up company called Gourmey is trying to produce foie gras from cultivated cells, rather than the fattened livers of ducks or geese.
A start-up company called Gourmey is trying to produce foie gras from cultivated cells, rather than the fattened livers of ducks or geese.
By Jenny Gross

Organizing a Union in the Disorganized World of Small Restaurants
The stresses of the pandemic and the demands for equity have moved many independent-restaurant workers to start labor-union drives. Will they get results?

The employees of Tattersall Distilling in Minneapolis successfully unionized last August, and have inspired other workers to do the same.
The employees of Tattersall Distilling in Minneapolis successfully unionized last August, and have inspired other workers to do the same.
By Priya Krishna

Learning to Love G.M.O.s
Overblown fears have turned the public against genetically modified food. But the potential benefits have never been greater.
By Jennifer Kahn

Coca-Cola Is Changing the Flavor of a Soda. Again.
The company promised “an even more iconic Coke taste” for its new version of Coke Zero. But some anxious consumers remember the New Coke debacle of 1985.
By Maria Cramer

CRITIC’S NOTEBOOK
In Search of the California Barbecue Tradition
From storied Santa Maria tri-tip on the Central Coast, to barbacoa in Los Angeles, to hot links in West Oakland, the rules for slow-and-low are constantly rewritten here.
A’s BBQ, eastlossoulbarbecue.com

Barba Kush, instagram.com/barbakush

Bludso’s Bar & Que, 609 North La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles; 323-931-2583; barandque.com

Horn Barbecue, 2534 Mandela Parkway, Oakland; 510-225-6101; hornbarbecue.com

Moo’s Craft Barbecue, 2118 N Broadway, Los Angeles; 323-379-3635; mooscraftbarbecue.com

Smoke Queen, smokequeenbbq.com

The Hitching Post, 3325 Point Sal Road, Casmalia; 805-937-6151; hitchingpost1.com
By TEJAL RAO

A GOOD APPETITE
Crispy, Cheesy Arepas You Won’t Soon Forget
A snap to make, these tender, sweet corn arepas de choclo from the food stylist Mariana Velásquez make an excellent summer meal.

Sweet and moist in the center, arepas de choclo are usually filled with cheese.
Sweet and moist in the center, arepas de choclo are usually filled with cheese.
Melissa Clark
By Melissa Clark

16 No-Bake Desserts for Blazing Summer Days
When it’s too hot to turn on the oven, these treats will satisfy your sweet tooth.

Melissa Clark’s no-bake lemon custards with strawberries.
Melissa Clark’s no-bake lemon custards with strawberries.
By Margaux Laskey

FRONT BURNER
It’s Herring Time in Midtown
Aquavit celebrates herring with a summer festival that had to be skipped last year because of the pandemic.


Aquavit Herring Festival, $65 per person, and herring kit for two, $125, aquavit.org.
By Florence Fabricant

Saffron

Crawfish

Cabbage Island Clambake

Trofie Pasta

Exploring Seattle’s Booming Beer Scene
This northwestern city makes some of the most creative craft beers around. The best place to try them is in the Ballard Brewery District.

Obec Brewing is one of a dense cluster of beer breweries in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood.
Obec Brewing is one of a dense cluster of beer breweries in Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood.
By Christopher Solomon

THE POUR
A Wine Worth Waiting For
The 2005 Bordeaux vintage will require decades to evolve and develop. Is that better than wines that are terrific sooner, but not as majestic?

In Bordeaux, winemakers like Pontet-Canet make powerful wines that can endure for decades, long enough to develop complex secondary and tertiary aromas and flavors.
In Bordeaux, winemakers like Pontet-Canet make powerful wines that can endure for decades, long enough to develop complex secondary and tertiary aromas and flavors.
By Eric Asimov

For the First Time, an American Will Run the American Bar in London
The storied cocktail bar, which opened in the 1890s at the Savoy Hotel, has named Shannon Tebay of Death & Co. in New York as its new head bartender.


Shannon Tebay at Death & Co. in New York, where she worked for seven years before being named head bartender at the American Bar at the Savoy Hotel in London.
By ROBERT SIMONSON