Monthly Archives: September 2020

Food! Glorious Food! — The How to Get the Debate Taste Out of Your Mouth Edition

A Potential Downside of Intermittent Fasting
A rigorous three-month study found that people lost little weight, and much of that may have been from muscle.
By ANAHAD O’CONNOR

Care for a Cup of Satanic Chamomile?


One tea company is trying to make the cozy brew a little more goth.
By KIM KELLY

The Ugly (and Glorious) Truth About American Supermarkets
In his new book, “The Secret Life of Groceries,” Benjamin Lorr argues that the kale chips and shade-grown coffee sold at supermarkets define who we are.
By ALEX WILLIAMS

The 14 Best Cookbooks of Fall 2020
Our favorite new books of the season, selected by Food reporters and editors from The New York Times.


‘Coconut & Sambal: Recipes From My Indonesian Kitchen’ Lara Lee
‘East: 120 Vegan and Vegetarian Recipes From Bangalore to Beijing’ Meera Sodha
‘The Flavor Equation: The Science of Great Cooking Explained’ Nik Sharma
‘In Bibi’s Kitchen: The Recipes and Stories of Grandmothers From the Eight African Countries That Touch the Indian Ocean’ Hawa Hassan
‘Modern Comfort Food’
‘Ottolenghi Flavor’
‘The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food’ Marcus Samuelsson
‘Xi’an Famous Foods: The Cuisine of Western China, From New York’s Favorite Noodle Shop’ Jason Wang
‘Baking at the 20th Century Cafe: Iconic European Desserts From Linzer Torte to Honey Cake’ Michelle Polzine
‘Dessert Person: Recipes and Guidance for Baking With Confidence’ Claire Saffitz
‘A Good Bake: The Art and Science of Making Perfect Pastries, Cakes, Cookies, Pies and Breads at Home’ Melissa Weller
‘The Good Book of Southern Baking: A Revival of Biscuits, Cakes, and Cornbread’ Kelly Fields
‘Pie for Everyone: Recipes and Stories From Petee’s Pie, New York’s Best Pie Shop’ Petra Paredez
‘Snacking Cakes: Simple Treats for Anytime Cravings’ Yossy Arefi
By THE NEW YORK TIMES

Credit Where It’s Due
We’ve made some changes to how our recipes are presented.
By SAM SIFTON

A GOOD APPETITE
This One-Pan Pasta Still Feels Like Summer
A perfect transition into fall, this cozy dish is full of greens, and walks the line between rich and light.

One-pan orzo with spinach, feta and dill.Credit...Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
One-pan orzo with spinach, feta and dill.
By Melissa Clark

Chili Season!
Make a pot to welcome the sweater weather.
By MARGAUX LASKEY

EAT
Buried in Salt, These Potatoes Are a Joy to Eat
Crack the crust tableside to reveal its mysterious contents; the delight will be palpable.


Salt-baked new potatoes are fun to serve and delicious to eat.
By GABRIELLE HAMILTON

FRONT BURNER
An Heirloom for the Kitchen


This wooden cake stand from Vermont Rolling Pins and Company is designed to last a lifetime.
Cake stands, $105 to $205, pasta pin (mattarello), $125 in maple or cherry, $130 in walnut, vermontrollingpins.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

THE POUR
How to Read a Wine Label, in 12 Easy Lessons


The wine shop can be intimidating, with so many different styles of labeling. Here’s help in decoding a dozen basic types.
By ERIC ASIMOV

Donald Kendall, Pepsi’s Chief During the Cola Wars, Dies at 99


He faced off against Coke, wooed a ‘Pepsi generation’ and bought Frito-Lay and fast food chains. Ever loyal, he downed a Pepsi for breakfast.
By SAM ROBERTS

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Oliver Sacks: His Own Life
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Ric Burns
A new documentary explores the fascinating and sometimes troubled life of the famed neurologist.


Oliver Sacks knew he was dying when he spoke about his life and work in “Oliver Sacks: His Own Life.”
By GLENN KENNY

Bird Island
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Sergio Da Costa, Maya Kosa
This compact, whimsical film about a bird rehabilitation center in Switzerland is perched wryly between fiction and documentary.


A scene from “Bird Island,” Directed by Sergio Da Costa and Maya Kosa.
By DEVIKA GIRISH

Kajillionaire
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Crime, Drama | Directed by Miranda July
Miranda July’s third feature follows a family of small-scale swindlers in a deceptively sunny Los Angeles.


Evan Rachel Wood in “Kajillionaire.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

— Of Possible Interest —

Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles
Documentary | Directed by Laura Gabbert
This documentary follows the star chef Yotam Ottolenghi as he assembles a crack team to make sweets for an event at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.


Yotam Ottolenghi as seen in “Ottolenghi and the Cakes of Versailles.”Credit…Ifc Films
By GLENN KENNY

The Trial of the Chicago 7
R | Drama, History, Thriller | Directed by Aaron Sorkin
Aaron Sorkin and an all-star cast re-enact a real-life ’60s courtroom drama with present-day implications.


Jeremy Strong as the Yippie Jerry Rubin in the docudrama from Aaron Sorkin
By A.O. SCOTT

Food! Glorious Food!

TRILOBITES
Aromatherapy in the Apiary Is What Bees Need
Honeybees were better at pollinating crops after scent training.
By MATT KAPLAN

Are Mushrooms the Future of Wellness?
Long thought to have medicinal benefits, fungi including reishi, lion’s mane and chaga are gaining popularity in the wellness world.
By ARDEN FANNING ANDREWS

FOOD MATTERS
Mushrooms, the Last Survivors
Neither plant nor animal, mushrooms have confounded humans since ancient times. Now, they’re a reminder of our tenuous place in an uncertain world.
By LIGAYA MISHAN

Beard Foundation Will Announce a Few More Awards, Despite a Vow Not To
After declaring that giving awards was not ‘the right thing to do’ this year, the group will name three design honorees, adding new confusion to the process.
By PETE WELLS

The Perfect Afternoon Snack Has Arrived
With its sunny lemon glaze, this one-bowl carrot loaf cake is as easy to eat as it is to make.

There is something irresistible about a carrot cake topped with a citrus glaze. Credit...Yossy Arefi for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)
There is something irresistible about a carrot cake topped with a citrus glaze.
By Yossy Arefi

EAT
A Dish That Reflects Our Nation: Okra Soup


This simple Gullah Geechee dish emphasizes the freshness of its ingredients — representing at least four continents and five spiritual traditions.
By SAMIN NOSRAT

Pandemic Baking Just Got Weirder


Artists are crafting kooky, made-from-scratch cakes to exhibit on Instagram.
By EMMA ORLOW

FROM THE PANTRY
5 Recipes That Are a Sure Thing in an Uncertain Time
Started as a response to the pandemic, Melissa Clark’s From the Pantry series says goodbye.
Corn Polenta With Baked Eggs
Colcannon With Crispy Leeks
One-Pan Tuna-White Bean Casserole
One-Bowl Chocolate-Mayonnaise Cake
Simple Roast Chicken With Greens (and Stock)
By MELISSA CLARK

This Spinach-Potato Pie Feels Like a Hug


This reassuring dish is just what we need right now, Yotam Ottolenghi writes.
By YOTAM OTTOLENGHI

FRONT BURNER
Persian Spices From the Source


The cookbook author Louisa Shafia now sells a kit of nearly a dozen seasonings like dried lime powder and barberries.
Feast Persian Spice Kit, $51, feast-by-louisa.myshopify.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
A New Book Captures the Flavors of Southeast Asia


The chef Leah Cohen offers detailed recipes in her first book, “Lemongrass & Lime.”
“Lemongrass & Lime: Southeast Asian Cooking at Home” by Leah Cohen with Stephanie Banyas (Avery, $35).
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

CANADA DISPATCH
Canada’s Napa Valley Seeks Elusive Audience: Canadian Wine Drinkers


British Columbia’s wines are improbably being embraced by wine snobs around the world. But legal restrictions, and regional biases, are getting in the way at home.
By DAN BILEFSKY

FRONT BURNER
Champagne, Because You’re Worth It


A new blanc de noirs Champagne from Bollinger should be popped for any celebration.
Bollinger PN VZ 15 NV, $104.95 for 750 milliliters, sherry-lehmann.com.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

God of the Piano
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Itay Tal


A family drama and psychological horror story, this directorial debut examines a parent’s projection of her own failed dreams onto a talented child.
By GLENN KENNY

Residue
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Merawi Gerima


In Merawi Gerima’s first feature film, a failed screenwriter returns to Washington, D.C., and finds gentrification has overrun his home.
By GLENN KENNY

Food! Glorious Food!

TRILOBITES
The Hidden History Baked Into a Cooking Pot


An experiment with unglazed clay pots hinted at how much archaeologists can learn about ancient cultures from cooking vessels.
By KATHERINE KORNEI

THE WORLD THROUGH A LENS
Vivid Street Scenes From Salvador, Brazil
After living for nearly half a decade in the capital city of the Brazilian state of Bahia, a photographer offers an intimate look at a city where the act of celebration is indelibly ingrained.
By STEPHANIE FODEN

FRONT BURNER
A Fusilli Made for Chianti


There’s a new gluten-free pasta on the block: Fava beans power this fusilli from Explore Cuisine.
By FLORENCE FABRICANT

FRONT BURNER
Cookbook Celebrates 19th Amendment


The free digital cookbook from the American Bar Association features recipes from judges and lawyers.

“The Nineteenth Amendment Centennial Cookbook: 100 Recipes for 100 Years,” American Bar Association Commission on the Nineteenth Amendment, free, 19thamendmentcookbook.com.

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

ONE GOOD MEAL
A Late-Summer Tomato Sauce — and a Candle to Go With It


The skin-care line founders Matthew Malin and Andrew Goetz share their aromatic take on a classic recipe.
By NICK MARINO

‘If it has an ingredient in the name, avoid it’: Adam Liaw on the kitchen appliances you’ll actually use
From air fryers to garlic peelers, kitchen gadgets promise to make life easier – but some shiny buys are destined to gather dust in the drawer
Adam Liaw

Today Is for Nachos
Find comfort in the easy favorite.
By SAM SIFTON

A Crop of Kitchen Gardens From Chefs Around the Globe
Meet five participants in the Kitchen Farming Project, which provides a loose “recipe” for a garden conceived by the chef Dan Barber.
By AMELIA NIERENBERG

Cook’s Country Gets a New Editor, Toni Tipton-Martin


Her appointment at the America’s Test Kitchen magazine comes as the food media addresses racial inequality.
By KIM SEVERSON

The Perfect Moment for Vegan Tacos


Hibiscus asada, vegetable trompos and nutty chorizos — thanks to creative cooks in Los Angeles, meatless tacos are thriving in the pandemic era.
By TEJAL RAO

AT HOME NEWSLETTER
Keep Track of the Tiny Details
They’ll unlock a cascade of memory in the future.
By MELISSA KIRSCH

A GOOD APPETITE
This Is the Path to Perfect Weeknight Shrimp
This twist on a buttery, garlicky scampi gets a sweet-tart lift from burst Sungold tomatoes and tangy fresh lime.

Adding a handful of tomatoes to this take on shrimp scampi makes for a bright, full-flavored meal that’s speedy and complex.Credit...David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Adding a handful of tomatoes to this take on shrimp scampi makes for a bright, full-flavored meal that’s speedy and complex.
By Melissa Clark

COOKING CLASS
A Jewelry Designer’s Prized Family Vegetable Recipe


When Beth Bugdaycay serves her favorite green beans, she is not only feeding her own family but paying tribute to her husband’s Turkish heritage.
By MARIAN BULL

The T List: Five Things We Recommend This Week
Walter Price paintings, three-legged chairs — and more.

AT HOME NEWSLETTER
Endless Summer vs. Hurry-Up Fall
New season, new concerns, new ways of coping.
By MELISSA KIRSCH

FROM THE PANTRY
A Cheesy Toast to Dream About


This riff on Welsh rarebit puts that wilting spinach in the fridge to use in a creamy, verdant lunch.
By MELISSA CLARK

THE POUR
After 43 Years, the Wine Sentinel of the River Café Stands Down


Joseph DeLissio, “a blue-collar kid in a white-collar job,” saw the rise of American wine culture and put together an ever-changing, world-class list.

That Mr. DeLissio got involved with wine at all was something of a surprise, not least of all to him. He was born in Marine Park, Brooklyn, in November 1954. His father ran a neighborhood bar in Bensonhurst where wine was an afterthought.

“Wine was what my father’s friends drank when they went on the wagon,” he said. “It wasn’t considered drinking.”

By ERIC ASIMOV

FRONT BURNER
A Los Angeles Winemaker Heads in a New Direction


The vintner Mark Blatty has experimented with a white wine blend, Aurora, after focusing on reds.

Aurora, $37, red wines $45 to $100, byronblatty.com.

By FLORENCE FABRICANT

NYT Critic’s Pick Movie(s)

Gather
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary | Directed by Sanjay Rawal


This documentary wonderfully weaves personal stories with archival footage that contextualizes the continued violence against Native Americans.
By LOVIA GYARKYE

Buoyancy
NYT Critic’s Pick | Not Rated | Crime, Drama | Directed by Rodd Rathjen


In this sobering, moving drama, a Cambodian teenager runs away from home and is sold into slavery on a Thai fishing boat.
By MANOHLA DARGIS

Food! Glorious Food!

7 Ways the Pandemic Has Changed How We Shop for Food
Oranges and frozen foods are being snapped up. Shelves have fewer choices. And customers are steering their carts in surprising new directions.

Jennifer Flanigan loading up a cart at a Kroger store in West Chester, Ohio. Like many shoppers, she goes to the store less often but buys more when she does — something grocers think will continue after the pandemic. Credit...Andrew Spear for The New York Times
Jennifer Flanigan loading up a cart at a Kroger store in West Chester, Ohio. Like many shoppers, she goes to the store less often but buys more when she does — something grocers think will continue after the pandemic.


The pandemic has made Lizzie Bowman focus on stores that have good safety protocols and emphasize locally grown food, like her co-op in Minneapolis.
By Kim Severson

In Louisiana, Love for a Chinese Restaurant and Its Magnetic Owner
For years, Lucky Palace has drawn fans for its intriguing wine list. Now, they come to help their dear friend Kuan Lim in his time of need.


Kuan Lim started learning about wine in order to attract gamblers from the casinos that surround Lucky Palace, in Bossier City, La. He became a passionate expert, and is widely admired for his generosity and taste.
By Brett Anderson

The Elements of Wok Hei, and How to Capture Them at Home
The elusive smoky flavors and aromas of stir-fry can be achieved in your home kitchen. J. Kenji López-Alt shows you how.


One of the secrets to achieving wok hei in a home kitchen is a blowtorch.
By J. Kenji López-Alt

Tracing a Classic Jewish Dish Throughout the Diaspora
Tsimmes, a beef, carrot and sweet potato stew that is traditionally served at Rosh Hashana, slowly evolved over centuries and across continents.


By Joan Nathan

A GOOD APPETITE
Roast Chicken and Plums Make the Sweetest Sheet-Pan Meal
Easy, festive, and bursting with spiced, seasonal fruit, this late summer dinner should be made before plum season ends.

This sheet-pan dinner fits the bill for Rosh Hashana or any night when plums are at their peak.Credit...Julia Gartland for The New York Times (Photography and Styling)
This sheet-pan dinner fits the bill for Rosh Hashana or any night when plums are at their peak.
By Melissa Clark

NYT Critic’s Pick

I’m Thinking of Ending Things
NYT Critic’s Pick | R | Drama, Horror, Thriller | Directed by Charlie Kaufman
Jessie Buckley and Jesse Plemons play a couple on a trip to some very odd places in Charlie Kaufman’s latest film.


Family togetherness (or is it?) in Charlie Kaufman’s “I’m Thinking of Ending Things,” with, from left, Jesse Plemons, Jessie Buckley, Toni Collette and David Thewlis.
By A.O. SCOTT

Isadora’s Children
NYT Critic’s Pick | Drama | Directed by Damien Manivel
The work of a 20th-century dance innovator inspires four women of the present day in this film, composed like a piece of music by Damien Manivel.


Marika Rizzi, left, and Manon Carpentier, in “Isadora’s Children.”
By GLENN KENNY

Feels Good Man
NYT Critic’s Pick | Documentary, Comedy | Directed by Arthur Jones
A new documentary looks at how the cartoonist Matt Furie’s creation Pepe the Frog became a symbol of hate.


His frog was stolen: The artist Matt Furie in the documentary “Feels Good Man.”
By BEN KENIGSBERG

— Of Possible Interest —

Mulan
PG-13 | Action, Adventure, Drama, Family | Directed by Niki Caro
In Niki Caro and Disney’s live-action version of the ancient story, a young woman rides off to war and discovers herself.


Going to war for China and Disney: Yifei Liu as the title character in the live-action remake of “Mulan.”
By MANOHLA DARGIS

The New Mutants
PG-13 | Action, Horror, Sci-Fi | Directed by Josh Boone


From left, Maisie Williams, Henry Zaga, Blu Hunt, Charlie Heaton and Anya Taylor-Joy from “The New Mutants.”
This much-delayed “X-Men”-related film from Josh Boone features five teens with not-so-great powers.
By AMY NICHOLSON

Children of the Sea
Animation, Adventure, Drama, Family, Fantasy, Mystery | Directed by Ayumu Watanabe
Exploration is at the heart of the mostly stunning and totally mystifying Japanese anime feature.


In “Children of the Sea,” Ruka, a shy teenage girl, feels a curious connection to water.
By MAYA PHILLIPS

Chuck Berry
Documentary, Biography, Music | Directed by Jon Brewer
Jon Brewer’s documentary about the musical legend is far more traditional than its subject.


The title subject of the documentary “Chuck Berry.”
By JEANNETTE CATSOULIS

Food! Glorious Food!

As Food Deliveries Boom, So Do Ghost Kitchens
Several new companies and models have emerged to help restaurants by making food off-site, and even delivering it.
By Florence Fabricant

The State Fair Is Canceled. Deep-Fried Oreos Are Not.
Food vendors and their devoted fans are going to great lengths, from drive-throughs to phone apps, to keep the corn dogs and chickens-on-a-stick flowing.

Volunteers from the industry group Oregon Dairy Women with the mobile version of the Red Barn ice cream stand they usually run at the Oregon State Fair. State fairs have been canceled so far in 36 states and the District of Columbia.Credit...Cole Wilson for The New York Times
Volunteers from the industry group Oregon Dairy Women with the mobile version of the Red Barn ice cream stand they usually run at the Oregon State Fair. State fairs have been canceled so far in 36 states and the District of Columbia.

“I got on Facebook one morning and I created a group,” said Ms. Lexvold, who lives in Forest Lake, about a half-hour drive from the fairgrounds. “I invited about 100 of my friends. I just said, ‘Hey, if you see any food stands around, post it to this page, so we can all go.’”

The group, Fair Food Finder, now has nearly 179,000 members, a Google map of 139 Minnesota vendors and a phone app created by an enthusiastic fan.

(State Fair To Go, a new business based in Minnetonka, Minn., ships boxes of Minnesota State Fair food within the continental United States. Each box costs $59.95 — with free shipping within the state — and contains six fair staples, including Elliott’s Up North corn dogs, Rosie’s French fries and Sweet Martha’s cookies. This week, the company began selling a $64.95 box of foods from the State Fair of Texas.)

By Marissa Conrad

Today’s Chefs Are Honoring a Vital Tradition: Feeding the Revolution
As Americans have taken to the streets demanding racial justice, restaurants and nonprofits have provided meals for them, building upon a long legacy of food as resistance.
By Ligaya Mishan

FRONT BURNER
Learn About ‘The Politics of the Potato’
A new book dives into the history, including the ties to government food policies in Europe, the United States and elsewhere.


By Florence Fabricant

FRONT BURNER
A Documentary on Women in the Restaurant Business
The 29-minute film follows three professionals as they manage working in male-dominated spaces.

Marielle Fabie in “A Woman’s Place.”Credit...KitchenAid
Marielle Fabie in “A Woman’s Place.”

The 29-minute film follows Karyn Tomlinson, a Minneapolis chef; Marielle Fabie, the chef de cuisine at a ramen shop in Oakland, Calif.; and Etana Diaz, a butcher from Seattle, as they manage working in male-dominated spaces, contend with their parents’ aspirations for them and try to meet their personal goals.

“A Woman’s Place,” streaming on Hulu.

By Florence Fabricant

3 Highly Portable Picnic Options That Aren’t Sandwiches
Try Italian calzones, Turkish pide or Eastern European piroshki.

Calzones with roasted tomatoes, basil pesto and mozzarella.Credit...Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Carrie Purcell.
Calzones with roasted tomatoes, basil pesto and mozzarella.
By Jessica Battilana

A GOOD APPETITE
A Lighter, Brighter Meatball
Quickly made in a skillet with ripe peaches, basil and lime juice, these meatballs are perfect for weeknights.

Credit...Bryan Gardner for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY
Yet Another Use for Your Sheet Pan: Sugar Cookies
These simple frosted cookies are just the thing to share distantly — or hoard all for yourself.

Credit...Melissa Clark/The New York Times
By Melissa Clark

A Plum Crumble That Meets You Where You Are
Look to those graham crackers in the back of your cupboard, and put them to use in this simple dessert.

Plum graham cracker crumble.Credit...Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.
Plum graham cracker crumble.
By Jerrelle Guy

Surly Beer Hall to close ‘indefinitely’ in November


Pandemics and beer halls just don’t mix, Surly said.
MELISSA TURTINEN

Anthony Martignetti (‘Anthony!’), Who Raced Home for Spaghetti, Dies at 63
He was a 12-year-old Italian immigrant when a classic TV commercial for Prince, the Boston pasta company, gave him a lasting identity.

Anthony Martignetti was 12 when he appeared in a TV commercial playing a boy in Boston’s Little Italy hungry for a plate of spaghetti.
Anthony Martignetti was 12 when he appeared in a TV commercial playing a boy in Boston’s Little Italy hungry for a plate of spaghetti.
By Sam Roberts

5 Standout Recipes From Julia Reed, an Irreverent Voice of the South
The journalist, who died last week at 59, mixed sophistication and down-home pleasures in her cooking.

Julia Reed speaking at the Mississippi Book Festival in 2015. She loved it all — a French 75, a thick Roman steak, chilled crab meat Maison or a pile of Gulf shrimp. Credit...AP Photo/Rogelio V. Solis
Julia Reed speaking at the Mississippi Book Festival in 2015. She loved it all — a French 75, a thick Roman steak, chilled crab meat Maison or a pile of Gulf shrimp.
By Kim Severson