Food! Glorious Food!

The Nation Wanted to Eat Out Again. Everyone Has Paid the Price.
Governments and restaurant owners wanted to get back to business. But bars and restaurants have become a focal point for clusters of Covid infections.
By Jennifer Steinhauer

Salmonella Cases Linked to Onions Increase to Nearly 900
Grocery chains, including Publix and Giant Eagle, have recalled onions supplied by Thomson International and products that may contain the onions.
Last week, Thomson International recalled red, yellow, white and sweet onions shipped since May 1 because of the risk of contamination.
By Christina Morales

T PRESENTS
The Acclaimed Soba Maker Who Champions Home Cooking
Working out of her California kitchen, Sonoko Sakai pays homage to Japanese culinary traditions through recipes, food activism and intimate classes.


Sonoko Sakai in the “soba room” of her studio in Highland Park, Los Angeles.
By Mimi Vu

A GOOD APPETITE
This One Is for the Focaccia Lovers
Lighter and fresher than pizza, this crisp-edged flatbread is also a celebration of summer eggplant.


Eggplant focaccia with ricotta and olives.
By Melissa Clark

FROM THE PANTRY
For the Crispiest Tofu, Leave It Alone


This simple recipe brings out its crunchy side, then pairs it with olives and blistered tomatoes.
By Melissa Clark

Finding the Soul of Sonora in Carne Asada
A carne asada goes far beyond grilled meat: In the Mexican state of Sonora, it’s a weekly ritual, a tight-knit gathering of friends and family.


Every component of a carne asada is treated with almost reverence.
By Pati Jinich

The Simple Joys of Tamarind
Sweet, sour and tender under its brittle shell, the fruit’s pulp is equally at home in desserts and savory dishes.


When working with tamarind fruit pods, make sure they’re unripe, which ensures a stronger degree of sourness.
By Nik Sharma

EAT
The Particular Texture and Joy of Homemade Ice Cream


By Dorie Greenspan

THE POUR
Wine Joins the 2020 Debate Over Privilege and Justice
An accusation involving migrant labor in Puglia leads to self-examination and, perhaps, new awareness of the treatment of agricultural workers.
By Eric Asimov

Carol Brock, Who Pushed at a ‘Pyrex Ceiling,’ Dies at 96
A veteran food writer, she founded Les Dames d’Escoffier, a society for women in the male-dominated culinary world.


Carol Brock created a gastronomic club for women. “She the was the life of the party,” one friend said. “She would make connections with new people and use every one to generate new ideas.”
By John Leland

THOSE WE’VE LOST
Barbara Costikyan, New York Magazine Food Columnist, Dies at 91
Ms. Costikyan, who died of the coronavirus, once wrote that she couldn’t think about food “without thinking about the people who do it.”


Barbara Costikyan in 1976. She turned a love of food and hospitality into a job.
By Emma Goldberg